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I don’t know if anyone on here remembers me, but I was pretty active on here 10+ years ago. We moved away from Skoda due to them unfortunately not making anything big enough for our needs (until relatively recently) but now have a nice 22 plate Kodiaq. Anyone who does remember me will recall I did a few tutorials for fixes on our two Mk1 Fabias (Comfort and vRS), but to be honest I don’t dare do much more than check the fluids on the Kodiaq!

Love it - it’s as if I never went away! 😎

My feeling is that the dealerships rely too much on plugging it in and then having to get permission to order and replace any parts it might need, this then drags out any repair they want to try. Something somewhere is causing a drain and then sending all the electronics haywire. I have written to the dealer principal documenting everything and advising that if this repair fails I will be rejecting the car. It has only done 2500 painful miles.

A few from this evening........ 1440152~3.mp4

I'd be more than surprised if limp mode was activated without a DTC being generated! What fault light displays on the instrument cluster when this happens? What equipment are they using to check?

Thanks so much for a good explanation 🙏

I know I've seen it and I've looked and I've searched. Can some kind soul give me link to the topic of replacing a Bolero touch screen for 2016 Yeti. Regards and thanks

Anyone on here got some information about my SE, i noticed above the driver side headlight that there was a sticker previously there of the website just wondering if anyone can tell me anything about it, cars been great so far but needs a new camshaft so upgrading to the SDI

Well, that was short 😂 Welcome to Briskoda 👋

Ah, that's rotten luck. I really think it's luck of the draw. Some people seem to have had cars that haven't worked as expected. Maybe rejecting the car was a good thing in the end. Hopefully September's car will be good as gold for you both. I'm 18,000 miles in now with the 1st service scheduled in a few weeks. She's not skipped a beat since day 1. What I have noticed are the rear camera resolution has improved slightly, mainly sharpening. The lane detect can now differentiate between a curb edge and a soft verge, and the travel assist (autonomous driving) is now much more polished and drives more like a person would than a machine. I've been very happy and after nearly a year of ownership am looking forward to another year of brilliant motoring. I look forward to her arrival with you!

I saw the same one parked at a spot on Sheffield canal last year. They have a page on Facebook but couldn't tell you what it's called mind...

I remember you from the MkI Fabia forums @ap0gee1978 My old MkI Elegance pre GT bumper on L&K alloys With GT bumper and 154bhp at Castle Combe. Lowered on H&R? from DPM Performance. Polo interior and VRS door cards.

Welcome back 👍

Has the battery been coded to the car? Thanks. AG Falco

cheers mate, my plates do have motor point burnley on but the plates aren’t the same

Always worth doing a Keyword search.

Mid-cycle facelift of the 4th generation Octavia!

blocked heater matrix, charge cooler leaking or head gasket gone are the other options

This is what I found; everyone bangs on about A and F, I had L. B looks just like F from the underside I think so it might be different above...or it could be different spec rubber perhaps to be tuned to the engine vibration (ie diesel v petrol etc) - check your part number to engine code to make sure you have the right one: Dogbone Mount Part Numbers

Press launch today for Skoda Epiq

I guess you mean this dude, just near offside drive flange? That's a dummy vehicle speed sensor that was where the vehicle speed speed sensor was fitted prior to ABS sensors taking over (around 2002 I think). Not the same as an engine speed sensor, which is more often known as a crank, or crank angle sensor.

It's all very well giving them female names, but when they break, the swear words tend to be worse.

OK thanks. I'll not waste time worrying about that then.

Not a new issue either - My MY16 Octavia had both the battery and alternator replaced in the first year under warranty. The replacement Moll EFB has lasted well since then.

No, he have Not the Mode.

I purchased a Service Book which I also get stamped at every interval, for a tangible record that I can keep.

The question remains: does your car have driving modes?

Maybe post a picture of what your DSG shifter looks like and the 'panel in front' or around of it where the Yellow 'Pull release' is under.

Not necessarily, it depends on the life it had but now with a new battery and if you use preventaive charging you could see an even longer life from the new battery even though it's fitted to vehicle with 7-ish years of life and use on the other components, systems and parts. As put the senor(s) will be easy to identify with a scan tool but bear in mind possibly it might not be that sensor(s) actually at fault but the connections or wiring or other so do check and cross reference the results to confirm it is actually the sensor(s) at fault. If it is a sensor(s) at fault do be careful about fitting just some cheap generic make, it might be good, or good for a time or it might not and these sort of things always involve getting dirty so you (well I) don't want to do the same job once let alone twice. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Perhaps there might have been, are, will be, an odd or perrhaps batch of bad batteries but in my experience this would be rare, IMO much more likily bad computer programing for the charging of the batteries but I'd not expect the car manufacturers to admitt this including VAG, who have been proved in court to be liars previuosly. Obviously once the "bad", or genuinely bad, batteries are used on the VAG and then removed it is difficult to really know if it was the battery at fault.

Be interesting to know how much the VAG alternator/stop,start,/emmissions fuel saving lip service computer program actaully add on a long, congestion free motorway run add above the 75%-80% as the assumption is it'll be a lot and I'm not so sure about that, how much 'coasting' and braking is actually done if yournot constantly driving up the tailpipes of the vehicles in front and having your brake lights like dico lights.

^^^ Arnold Clark Servicing Central Booking offered me a Special Offer when booking in an EV which was a Motability Car and i was not paying for the Service or Recall action. The Special price was for a Fuel Treatment & Engine Flush. They also said no Automatic Courtesy cars. I pointed out they had e-Corsa Courtesy cars the same as was getting serviced and they only come as AUTOMATICS..............Some BEV,s require a reduction diff oil change. Tesla, Nissan Leaf. Pollen filters, Brake Fluid changes. Brakes, suspension, steering components Servicing & Maintenance, Wipers, hinges. XXXXXXXXXXXBelow my Fixed for 12 month tariff. Eon Next. If i renewed 1 day earlier it would have been cheaper. 'He who hesitates!'

I use a Topdon battery tester and it appears to give a reasonable indication of my 10-year old EFB. I'm not convinced that VAG Smart Alternator strategy (75-80% max charge) is the ideal for best battery life on the majority of vehicles, particularly ones doing regular short trips. I like the idea of intelligent charging limiting the alternator to 75% SOC for longer runs, using regenerative to top up the remaining capacity, but my ideal would be for the charging algorithm to modify its program when logging regular short trips so that the battery is kept as close to 100% as possible.

Well it works on mine. I was doing it from memory though, and it may be that cycling through the screens is just a repeated press of the button below the scroll wheel.

A DTC scan will identify which wheel if ABS sensor is causing the issue.

Thanks. I have swapped the battery out - it was near end of life anyway as was original. However still the lights have reappeared after being cleared with OBD scanner up the garage. Believe it may be the speed sensor now as left with ESC, ABS, TPMS etc.

Not sure you can stop 1) For 2) you tap the left hand button under the scroll wheel on right hand side of steering wheel, then scroll through to your preferred layout. Note I can't see your pic as it says not viewable in my region.

Oulton Park Yesterday, a mate was racing. Weather wasn’t so good.

The only place for badges and emblems is https://www.kopacek.com/ They get genuine bits and repaint them. Diffuser wise the only one I like is Rieger, but Maxton and others are available. FYI all diffusers are 'rear end' - the front piece is called a splitter!

First visit of the year to Coningsby.... 1440078~3.mp4 1440077~3.mp4

Yesterday the car would unlock but all the screens were blank and it wouldn't start. Called Skoda Assist who arrived surprisingly quickly. The battery had gone flat, he boosted it to get it running and then did a load of checks to see if there was a parasitic drain, his suspicion is one of the on board systems isn't shutting down. He advised I leave it hooked up to my Ctek box until it's been back in. So it's going in on the 26th for more investigation but I have lost all faith in it now and just want rid of it. Such a shame as my Octavia and my Kodiaq were good cars.

Not so, it's a card ID code that's unique to the VAG (inc Skoda) SD cards, there is NO extra chip.

Yes I believe any Skoda-branded SD navigation card will work, it is also possible that any VAG card will also work - you should try for 32gb card if you intend to use full EU maps as the 16gb card reportedly requires files to be edited-out to fit. There was a member selling 32gb cards on this forum a few years ago, otherwise try Ebay - there are sellers on there.

@WildGoose What numbers have you done, are they based on having to Public Charge and pay more than 50 pence a kWh?. Because if you can charge using a 3 pin plug at under 10 pence for 6 hours a day or even just at 30 pence standard tariff to run a BEV for local, short trips and even occasional longer & charging at Public Chargers. Used EV,s are dirt cheap. 10 pence a kWh, 10 kWh £1.00 Get even just 3.1 kWh as i am, 31 miles for £1. But say 30 pence a kWh, 10 kWh £3.00. 3.5 miles a kWh = 35 miles. 50 pence a kWh, 10 kWh £5.00

Recently purchased my first Skoda, 2014 Octavia Estate Vrs in met black. Lots of things i want to do to it, so on the look out in the forum for anyone in or close to West Yorks with VCDS 😁 Not moaning (well kinda) but surprised with the amount of "extras" that it hasn't come with, Footwell lights, puddle lights (under the mirrors) All things that were standard on my 22 year old BMW. So will be on the lookout for a lot of things in the near future.

No problem! I am here to help, if I can 🙂 You mentioned that your doors are crackling also? Mine did this.. I also used Krytox (Siliconespray is also possible) and sprayed it into the gap above the chrome trim.. now it is silent.. For the crackling window switch module I used some litte felt pads.. 1mm thick.. 11mm size.. and its also quiet now. On the picture you see the spots I have put them.. .

Cars only just ticked over 17k so the clutch should be fairly strong ..and i dont expect to be doing rediculous launches from the lights and ripping the clutch, im 34 and its an estate 🤣 its more for overtaking and just having that exra power, think im just goin to go for it. Company seems well thaught of on the vrs owners groups on facebook so ill trust the public that its a solid choice, and that i dont need to waste a grand on a new clutch

As one of the many with a remapped vehicle (Stage 2 via Shark (now Racingline OEM+) - and highly highly recommended), I have managed to retain my stock clutch without significant issue over the last 3 years and now at 50k miles. As Crash says above, there's no reason a stock clutch can't take Stage 1 - just expect to apply some more mechanical sympathy to everyday driving.

VW Codes Decoded E0A = No special edition 1N2 = Power steering electro-hydraulic 4A0 = Without seat heater 7Q0 = Without navigation device 3L2 = Manual height adjustment for right frontseat QG0 = Without service interval prolongation 1D0 = Without trailer hitch 1NH = Full wheel covers 8L3 = Roof antenna 8UE = Radio with CD drive 9P0 = Without seat belt reminder 0GG = Emission standard EU4 5SJ = Left exterior mirror: convex H2Z = Tires 185/60 R14 T J1P = Battery 220 A (44 Ah) 8QJ = Key for locking system with remote control Q1A = Standard front seats L03 = Suspension range 03 installation control only, no requirement forecast 5RV = Right exterior mirror: aspherical 4UE = Air bag for driver and front seat passenger 7AA = Electronic vehicle immobilization device 8X0 = Without headlight washer system 7X0 = Without park distance control 7P0 = Without lumbar support in seat backrests 1KM = Drum brakes, rear 4R2 = Power windows front, mechanical window regulators rear 8GD = Alternator 90A 4K3 = Radio remote controlled central locking operated from inside and safe securing 9W0 = W/o car phone preparation/installation F0A = No special purpose vehicle, standard equipment 6FB = Body-colored exterior mirror housings B09 = Type approval Great Britain and NorthernIreland 6Y0 = Without cruise control warning system B09 = Type approval Great Britain and NorthernIreland 8WB = Front fog lights 1AN = Anti-lock brake system (ABS) 3QT = 3-point seat belts with tensioner and height adjustment, front 9AP = Climatic air-conditioning system (semi-automatic) G01 = Front shock absorption 7A0 = Without CD changer/CD player 3S4 = Preparation for roof load rack 3FA = Without roof insert (standard roof) 4X0 = Without side air bag 8RM = 8 speakers (passive) QN0 = Without drawers under front seats VW Codes Decoder http://igorweb.org/equidec.aspx Front Springs G01, L03 (1) 6Q0411105AE coil spring 3 paint marks 2 paint marks red blue Model data: PR-G01/L03 PR-G02/L03 Front Shock Absorbers G01 8 6Q0413031BH shock absorbers Model data: PR-G01,G05 http://www.oemepc.com/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/FAB/year/2005/drive_standart/453/hg_ug/411/subcategory/411000/part_id/2561497/lang/e Skoda Fabia MK1 Engines Model Years Engine and code Displ. Power Torque Petrol 1.0 8V 1999–2000 I4 AQV/ATY/ARV 997 cc 37 kW (50 PS; 50 hp) at 5000 rpm 84 N⋅m (62 lb⋅ft) at 2750 rpm 1.2 MPI 6V 2001–2003 I3 AWY/BMD 1198 cc 40 kW (54 PS; 54 hp) at 4750 rpm 108 N⋅m (80 lb⋅ft) at 3000 rpm 1.2 HTP 6V 2003–2007 I3 AWY/BMD 1198 cc 40 kW (54 PS; 54 hp) at 4750 rpm 108 N⋅m (80 lb⋅ft) at 3000 rpm 1.2 HTP 12V 2003–2007 I3 AZQ/BME 1198 cc 47 kW (64 PS; 63 hp) at 5400 rpm 112 N⋅m (83 lb⋅ft) at 3000 rpm 1.4 MPI 2000–2003 I4 AZE/AZF 1397 cc 44 kW (60 PS; 59 hp) at 5000 rpm 118 N⋅m (87 lb⋅ft) at 2600 rpm 1.4 MPI 1999–2003 I4 AME/AQW/ATZ 1397 cc 50 kW (68 PS; 67 hp) at 5000 rpm 120 N⋅m (89 lb⋅ft) at 2500 rpm 1.4 16V 2000–2007 I4 APE/AUA/BBY/BKY 1390 cc 55 kW (75 PS; 74 hp) at 5000 rpm 126 N⋅m (93 lb⋅ft) at 3800 rpm 1.4 16V 2006–2007 I4 BUD 1390 cc 59 kW (80 PS; 79 hp) at 5000 rpm 132 N⋅m (97 lb⋅ft) at 3800 rpm 1.4 16V 1999–2007 I4 AUB/BBZ 1390 cc 74 kW (101 PS; 99 hp) at 6000 rpm 126 N⋅m (93 lb⋅ft) at 4400 rpm 2.0 8V 1999–2000 I4 ATF 1984 cc 88 kW (120 PS; 118 hp) at 5600 rpm 174 N⋅m (128 lb⋅ft) at 2400 rpm 2.0 8V 2000–2007 I4 AZL/BBX 1984 cc 85 kW (116 PS; 114 hp) at 5200 rpm 170 N⋅m (130 lb⋅ft) at 2400 rpm Diesel 1.4 TDI 6V 2005–2007 I3 BNM 1422 cc 51 kW (69 PS; 68 hp) at 4000 rpm 155 N⋅m (114 lb⋅ft) at 1600–2800 rpm 1.4 TDI 6V 2003–2005 I3 AMF 1422 cc 55 kW (75 PS; 74 hp) at 4000 rpm 195 N⋅m (144 lb⋅ft) at 2200 rpm 1.4 TDI 6V 2005–2008 I3 BNV 1422 cc 59 kW (80 PS; 79 hp) at 4000 rpm 195 N⋅m (144 lb⋅ft) at 2200 rpm 1.9 SDI 8V 1999–2006 I4 ASY 1896 cc 47 kW (64 PS; 63 hp) at 4000 rpm 125 N⋅m (92 lb⋅ft) at 1600–2800 rpm 1.9 TDI PD 8V 2000–2007 I4 ATD/AXR 1896 cc 74 kW (101 PS; 99 hp) at 4000 rpm 240 N⋅m (177 lb⋅ft) at 1800–2400 rpm 1.9 TDI PD 8V RS 2003–2007 I4 ASZ/BLT 1896 cc 96 kW (131 PS; 129 hp) at 4000 rpm 310 N⋅m (229 lbf⋅ft) at 1900 rpm https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Škoda_Fabia#Engines