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TBH I'd be changing insurer if they can't even get vehicle details correct from a registration plate or VIN

Depends if there was any load on it when you measured that voltage. Open circuit voltage doesn't give much clue about what it does when there is a draw on it.

Yes Bap, I contacted the dealer today about the registration docs, only to be told that the they had yet to receive the docs themselves from the previous owner! But they assure me that I will have the registration doc by next wednesday..... In any case, a very helpful Briskoda member named Pete, deciphered the VIN, and now I have proof that my Kodiak is indeed a front wheel drive, code 1XO. Next stop, contact the insurance again, and persuade them that the car is a FWD instead of their listed AWD. Fun times ahead!! Thanks and Best Regards, Jim

Sorry, I don’t understand why you have to wait for registration docs. 🤔 The VIN won’t change with the registration docs and that’s the only (and reliable) input that your local dealer needs to give you the complete list of PR codes. 🤷‍♂️

How about trying the direct approach with your insurance company? Send them two images of your vehicle, 1 of the VIN plate, the 2nd of your rear axle as proof it is 2WD only.

Pick up my new (to me) 2017 Kodiaq on Saturday. Trawling through the forum for some good info and help from everybody. Cheers

As above, they started showing up from MY19 onwards, with the 280/272 Superb. Though in some markets, they continued to get the DQ250 for a few more years. DQ250 is DSG-6 wet clutch. DQ381 is DSG-7 wet clutch

Hi, I would say they are DSG7 since june 2018. The change most probably happened with the MY19. TSI272 came at this time and are probably DSG7. Not 100% sure, just guessing.

Hi, welcome. Three things, 1) are sure your OBDEleven program is fully up to date and the program is correct, check with OBDEleven provider or manufacturer (or OBDEleven user forum)? 2) are you sure the error code is P0C2B00 and not POC2800? 3) have you checked for any Recalls that VW might (kicking and screaming, had to) admitted to this? - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns By a Google search I see POC2800 has a history. I will ask a Moderator to move your post from the 'Hello and Godbye' forum to the 'Skoda Kodiaq MK1 (2017-2023)' forum where owners and other may be able to help you with real world information, advice and experience about your model and year and possibly this issue. Good luck.

Hi from Hungary! Proud to be the owner of a 2017 1.8 TSI Octavia:)

Update, problem solved. The garage had a straw to clutch at but it didn't feel relevant. I passed on above suggestions and getting the ECU checked over first seemed the sensible thing to do. Updated software and reflashed to latest version. Came back previous MAP had a fault code removed for oil. The car should've been been showing a glow plug warning on the dash. 2 oil pressure switches replaced and the problem appears to have gone. Thanks everyone for the time and consideration For anyone else with a no fault code showing, perhaps get the ECU checked out, not cheap but at least you should find where you're starting point is if someone's messed around with it.

And yes start stop as standard. But you can code this out or get a module to plug in to the back of the button to keep it off.

Does the warning indicator stay off if you top up the oil to the Max. mark? If so, just keep the level at that, as it's possibly not worth the expense of replacing the sensor.

Opening the bonnet can cancel the warning for 62 miles / 100 km.

Thanks for replying. It's slightly above halfway between the markers.

Hi, I must complain about build quality of door covers for 2025 Kodiaq II, (bought brand new 1 year ago) . Check video (and sound!) of squeaking plastic on door covers. As my car is still under warranty, I contacted authorized dealer to repair it and they replied to me with : "Skoda doesn't see any trouble with this, and it is in accordance with factory data/requirements". They don't see any trouble in this ... This is very annoying as in every bump or sharp turn squeaking sound appears. Very disappointed in build quality, this kind of noise shouldn't be in any car, especially not in Kodiaq (which is not cheap car...). Has anyone got similar experiences? VID-20260525-WA0001.mp4

U can't tell by the buttons if the car has DCC shocks, but u can tell by looking in the infotainment menu by selecting the driving mode. Standard shocks only have Eco, Normal, Sport & Individual. The menu says "Driving Mode Selection" DCC shocks have Comfort, Eco, Normal, Sport & Individual. The menu says "DCC/Driving Mode" Alternatively, physically look at the shocks itself - there is a small valve cylinder that sticks out the side of the chamber, if it has DCC....like this.

@lol-lol I said I'd get back to you about Essex police, so here I am. They appear to be using at the moment, some Toyota C-HR and some Peugeot E308 cars.

We've got a red Poppy in a pot on the patio. Nice surprise to see it bloom a pink Poppy today: It's ever so delicate, so I'm not expecting it to last the day. Gaz PS: While I'm at it, I went to Manor Gardens in Bexhill yesterday. It's only a small place, an acre perhaps, but it's a bit of an oasis with some lovely bird song and plants. Doesn't come out so well on camera, but these roses were a stunning lilac, almost glowing: Whole bed of 'em! G

I see so many drivers that must be touching their brake pedal for no apparent reason as we are all going along nicely and they start a chain reaction. Must be the ACC affect....

Cars too close together is one of the biggest reasons why cars come to a halt on the Motorway for apparently no reason. Each following car has to brake harder eventually leading to stationary traffic. I can slow down well before the car realises traffic is slowing down and I am less likely to be hit from behind

As suspected, it’s a 6 speed. Really wanted to have the better gearing of the 7 for my two trips to France but never mind. Back to looking at E Class Merc estates as Superb estates are a similar price surprisingly and I think an E Class is the perfect cruiser for a long jaunt just maybe trickier to sell on afterwards

My problem with acc is that it acts like a "pursuit" way of driving and for me closer to the vehicle in front than I would be. I look at traffic as far as i can see and respond to that not just the car in front.

There can be many reasons why a car AC system has lost its fridge gas, from stone strike to the exposed front condenser to poor build quality of the evaporator which is inside the dashboard are - or even failure of the system pressure sensor - VW Group have a long history of revising this part to improve it, though I'd think that pressure sensor failure/leaking is more of an industry wide issue than just VW Group. Guessing is really not the way forward, your car's AC system needs to get checked over by a proper car HVAC operator - then repaired as necessary. Getting your local Skoda workshop to do this is one way to maybe benefit from your warranty covering the costs - but maybe not the best plan for a quick and proper fix.

Anyone looking at a 280 for reasonable money might want to check it out, mine has now travelled 118k impeccably with the right maintenance so this one could be a bargain basement flying machine.

He’s taking it for a drive now to make sure but just looked on DVLA and it was registered early March 2018 so looking like a6 speed. If so like Monty Pythons Holy Grail, I’ll tell him I already got one 😂

@Evolution13 lots of miles 😂 135k but will have been serviced every 10k or yearly, you can see their service schedule online. He showed me receipts at 120k which included mechatronic repair amongst many other service items. As I type he has text to say he is going to check which DSG it has but I suspect it will be 6 speed. It needs a service and two tyres but for the miles looks very good for £8k

I have an Enyaq 60, using aircon in my experience reduces range 10-15% and is shown in the estimate range prediction. Turn a/c on and off to see. I too only need to charge publicly if i go to Devon in my use case. I live in south lancs my son lives in Staffordshire. If I charge to 90% at home i can get there and back whatever the season. When I go to the Caravan I stop once south of Gloucester to charge and get comfortably get to Totnes with around 25% left leaving home around the 90% and recharging whilst having lunch. I never use B, i don't like it, I find in D the graphic for power used goes green when pressing the accelerator and does nothing when i take my foot off so the car coasts. on a motorway I set cruise (notacc) to 65 then drive at 67 but releasing the pedal results in regen, it's subtle but i find it works. It also regens downhill with CC set for any speed limit, I use it most of the time. Fuel saving tactics is the same as ice, acceleration and braking costs money so keep a decent gap and anticipate so any actually braking is regen. The main difference I find from my Diesel is the more efficiency is now around town and worse on the motorway where as the diesel was best on the motorway. If you use aircon set it to a comfortable rather than A hot or cold setting and leave it alone

Many thanks. I live in North Hertfordshire, drive around town during the week and to Harlow and around there each weekend, 30 miles each way with A roads and some dual carriageway. Once a month or so I drive to North Norfolk for a few days. It’s 90 miles each way , mostly motorways. I use B around town and when stuck in traffic and D when on open roads and motorways. I usually set drive mode to ECO. I am gentle on the accelerator and drive smoothly, with anticipation and no sudden braking or acceleration. I watch the green/blue line and try to minimise the green. I charge to 100% at home and top up to 60/80% at rapid chargers as and when needed. I’ve only had the car since March and am still learning a new way of driving, managing my charging and understanding the myriad setting. This is my first EV, coming from a petrol Karoq previously. Since March I have done 2,300 miles. Thanks in advance for any hints and tips to improve my performance.

You may also want to know that DQ381 7-speed often has issues with pressure sensors on the mechatronic till around 2020. It's fixable of course, but... The 6-speed is more reliable but less comfortable. Proper maintenance matters as well.

@SteveSupurb depends on year and country, options which were included in the first year moved to paid extras during next years

Yeah. Got there in the end. I had the paddle extensions already so had to find a wheel to fit them onto eventually!

Woohoo...... finally u have ur steering wheel sorted! The paddle shifters r a nice touch.

With the. Amount of fluid lost did the reservoir got empty? Because in that case it could be necessary to bleed the abs module I suspect

We're fortunate to live in the South West of Scotland so we don't do anything as uncivilised as motorways or traffic jams. Went for a jaunt to Dumfries today, air conditioning on but no boy racer stuff. 130 miles @ 4.4 miles/kWh. So home charge tonight 30kWh @ 4.9p/kWh on Octopus Go = £1.47. That's less than a litre of petrol, so suits me fine.

Thank you so muchbto everyone who has replied so far. I have looked on Skoda Parts and the factory fit are 3Q0 511 115 AL, so the fourth on the list. Very useful to know what I would go up to. To answer the question of sag, it's probably a mixture of boarderline overloading, plus distribution. We have small kids who don't weight much over the axle, and then the heavy stuff like a 60kg air tent and towbar mounted e-bikes sticking way out the back, which has made both previous estates sit low. The air springs are on option for the Superb but I think about £600 fitted, which is probably more than I want to pay. So my choice is between going to the N spring, or the Mad helper springs. The former is a lot cheaper. Does anyone have an instinct as to which will be better - the best compromise between comfy as normal unladen, and as level as possible laden? Thanks again, James

Does anyone know which series 3 models come with the damptronic shocks as standard? (Se-l, l&k, sportline) Thanks

I've got a 2024 Enyaq, pre facelift. The only difference between mine and the facelift is the front end and the change from piano black inside to matt and chrome trim to matte trim. Software, buttons etc are all unchanged on the facelift. I've done loads of videos on the enyaq at www.youtubre.com/@enyaq_gorm

Here's a part numbers chart I've been working on. It's not all verified but should give you a good overview. skoda_superb_mk3_suspension_v1.html

The Superb MK3 parts catalogue lists ten standard ride height rear springs for the FWD (Front Wheel Drive) car, as shown below. The springs are listed in order from softest to stiffest. Standard ride height rear springs (Superb MK3 FWD) 3Q0511115AH (Length 363mm, Wire diameter 11.25mm) 3Q0511115AJ (Length 361mm, Wire diameter 11.75mm) 3Q0511115AK (Length 364mm, Wire diameter 12.25mm) 3Q0511115AL (Length 359mm, Wire diameter 12.5mm) 3Q0511115M (Length 360mm, Wire diameter 12.75mm) 3Q0511115N (Length 361mm, Wire diameter 13.25mm) 3Q0511115P (Length 361mm, Wire diameter 13.5mm) 3Q0511115Q 3Q0511115R (Not available aftermarket) 3Q0511115BC (Not available aftermarket) Kilen 65125 (matches 3Q0511115AL) (£55.49 for two, on ebay) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/3q0511115al?supplier%5B%5D=246 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352663645780 Kilen 65126 (matches 3Q0511115M) (£55.49 for two, on ebay) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/3q0511115m?supplier%5B%5D=246 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352663645884 Bilstein 36-301942 (matches 3Q0511115N) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/3q0511115n?supplier%5B%5D=16 According to the Kilen online spring catalogue the Superb MK3 1.5TSI estate FWD with standard ride height has the third in the list, ie. 3Q0511115AK. However, according to the gknautomotive online spring catalogue the Superb MK3 1.5TSI estate FWD with standard ride height has the fourth in the list, ie. 3Q0511115AL. One way to find out what the factory fitted rear springs are is to open an account on "skoda parts com" and put the car in their online garage with its VIN number. Then when the rear springs are searched for, only the factory fitted ones will be shown...which enables the original OEM part number to be found.

My Mk2 is now 13 months old with 14k miles. In the last month this has started to happen to mine, thought i'd left something in the glove box or door pocket then thought it may be the seat itself. Very annoying part of a car I've loved driving.

Slightly deeper colour last night......

Unfortunately there's a lot more to a 2022 VW (Škoda) than even (an over complicated) 15+ year old VW though more recent VW servicing and "maintenance" schedules are more minmal on many items (and excessive on others). 2022 may enter the more protected computer systems and electronics on the car so you'd want a good independant VW specialist garage possibly or motorsport specialist often have the talent and attitude and not always as expensive as many might think. Most garages are very busy and you need to book in a good while in advance to get slots, with all the complexity and conveniences on modern cars (plus they're entertainment and stimulation centres on four wheels) means there's lots to sort out and service and maintain. I'd suggest you take a look and/or ask in the Octavia Mk4 forum possibly the Octavia Projects forum and 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/ HTH. Good luck.

Hi all, Long time lurker, finally pulled the trigger on a mk3.5 superb l&k iV. Really impressed so far, very comfortable, great on fuel and plenty of space for the family. Came from a Leon fr, so getting used to not chucking into the bends 😅. Hope everyone is enjoying the recent good weather in the uk. I look forward to contributing to the forum, already had a good look about the various topics on here and can feel my wallet getting lighter. Cheers, Jay

2017 2L L&K Hatch 150 Brilliant Silver Metalic Black Leather with Spare 16” wheel Went alllllll the way to Cardiff to get it Yesterday so nothin done to it YET 😜

@RMR whatever OEM springs will be too soft, choose from Eibach Pro springs table -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/510961-2023-280ps-lk-replaced-2016-220ps-style/page/3/#findComment-5854160

Have a look at the tyres fitted. I found that Extra load tyres improved handling as well. The ones that were on my old Octavia were budget comfort tyres. The Extra load were slightly noisier but improved cornering and car felt more positive. Alasdair

One Superb MK3 owner found that fitting slightly stiffer rear springs (two up in the hierarchy which is about 10% stiffer) helped improve the car's handling.

Get it escalated from Customer Services to an actual VW / Skoda UK Executive member, Communications manager or whoever. A named person. They sometimes have no long term memory and wipe their brain or hard drive at the end of the day, but the vehicles with issues are real. If you had to get an Independent Engineers report and take them to a Small Claims court that is what some have to do. Denial and refusal is their normal behaviour. They try it for months until they can no longer. It can take a legal action to get their attention sometimes. They do not go to court to defend actions because an Employee would have to stand and give evidence, like how many Warranty claims, or faults rectified VW have had to address. Maybe we can have them be aware of this thread. PIETTRO PANARISI of SKODA UK might well get a we nudge. A good way to contact can be LINKEDIN. A cool dude like CRAIG WILLOUGHBY of SKODA & SEAT UK might give a toss about After Sales & Warranties.