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Seriously...the garage did not notice the poor repair, what else could they have missed on their 'inspection'....

If its been damaged then I would reject it as at that age its not a cheap car. May have been repaired without insurance claim/non approved repair shop and without knowing how bad the damage was originally may have underlying problems down the road. Alasdair

Oi! That’s my trick 😂😂😂 This morning, at 74,989, I set off headed south after a trip to N Wales - ok I said to myself, 10 miles in get Mrs Steve to prep the phone for a pic. Well, you know… … car is now on 75,239 🙄 Hey ho!

As long as the repair is better than factory standard because that can be terrible. As it is can you trust the dealership. PETERS & LEE.

Or maybe they are just enjoying the weather? In summer i will put the windows down with aircon off until it gets above 24 (75 in old money) and then it's set to 22

Godammit 🙄

Any station that is in an area with significant heat island characteristics should be negated from the results.

It is currently 30 degrees on the Gauge in my room my body is still at it's usual 37 😉 I might be sweating if i was getting up and down emptying water out of my aircon unit though 🙂

Have to close my windows. What a smell of BS.

More drowning very likely. As to the heatwave, very very much in the southern UK at present as far as very high temps. More like into the 20,s and higher 20,s for a few days as you get further north. @lol-lol Are people really inclined to go shopping for cars where it is really hot as it is some places at the moment?

I reckon it’s the bypass switch. The plugs lock in to place, perhaps it’s not done up properly. If that was loose it may well give those errors. For the sake of 15 minutes it’s worth popping off the trim and checking the connections. Also check none of the wires are pinched by the trim replacement. Or possibly a dodgy switch. Was it OEM or aftermarket? I got mine from AliExpress and it’s been fine. But you never know.

We have an 85 Edition which we've had now since the end of March 2025. It's just coming up to 20,000 miles. We went to EV after having a plug in hybrid. We bought the PHEV as a step up to the full EV, but frankly it was a waste of money as it was neither one thing or the other. We bought the 85 to get the best range. We visit our son and grandsons which is a 220 mile round trip which the 85 does with ease in the summer, but only just makes it in the winter unless you charge to 100%. We also bought the MAXX pack which probably was a waste of money as half the features we haven't and are never likely to use. We charge mainly at home on Octopus go, so it's much cheaper to run than anything with an engine. On good days in the summer, we can get 4.4 miles/kWh, in the winter it's more like 3.6. It is scarily quick if you floor it, so great for overtaking, but in general we stick to the speed limits which is why we get decent range. We never do anything daft like turning aircon off, just to get a few extra miles. It's not a brilliant tow car, so I had to buy a smaller trailer, but I wouldn't go back to an ICE. The one fault I'd find with it is the amount of tech which, for the youngsters I'm sure is a boon, but for a 77 year old, it can be a bit of a nightmare.

Because it's Skoda fault I decided to raise a complain and hopefully they will respond. There is draft of the letter I will send recorded delivery tomorrow. [Your Name] [Your Address] [Your Phone Number] [Your Email Address] Date: 23 June 2026 To: The Head of Product Engineering & Executive Customer Relations Škoda Auto UK Customer Service Centre, PO Box 9004 Leeds, LS1 9WA FORMAL COMPLAINT: Systemic Matrix LED Headlight Software Logic Defect – Škoda Superb Mk3 Facelift (2019 Onwards) Vehicle Registration: [Your Car Reg] VIN (Vehicle Identification Number): [Your 17-digit VIN number] Model: Škoda Superb Estate/Hatchback Mk3 Facelift (FL) Dear Executive Relations Team and Technical Directors, I am writing to file a formal complaint regarding a significant, systemic software logic error affecting the Full LED Matrix headlight system on my Škoda Superb Facelift. This is not an isolated component malfunction or a localized physical hardware failure. Rather, it is an underlying factory programming defect embedded within the Volkswagen Group MQB platform architecture, specifically impacting right-hand drive (RHD) vehicles operating within the United Kingdom. [1] The Nature of the Glitch: When operating the vehicle with the headlight switch in the 'AUTO' position and the Dynamic Light Assist stalk activated, the Matrix LED system performs perfectly on standard A and B roads. However, the moment the vehicle enters a multi-lane dual carriageway or a motorway slip road, the left-hand traffic illumination profile instantly collapses. The software logic incorrectly commands the left-side matrix array to cut out its illumination completely, while simultaneously lifting the right-side lens array excessively high into the path of oncoming traffic. The Root Engineering Cause: This issue is caused by a communication conflict between the factory satellite navigation data tracking loop, the Front Driver Assistance Camera (Module A5), and the Central Electronics gateway (Module 09). The vehicle's GPS recognizes that it is entering a highway network but processes the lane geometry backward. The system defaults to a Left-Hand Drive (LHD) Continental European motorway matrix map. Consequently, it forces a beam pattern designed to look far down a right-hand curb, inadvertently blinding oncoming UK drivers across the central barrier while plunging the left-hand slip road gutter into darkness. Local Dealership Limitations: I have attempted to engage with local Škoda technicians regarding this matter. Unfortunately, dealership service departments are entirely dependent on looking for active Digital Diagnostic Fault Codes (DTCs). Because the headlight modules are electronically healthy and functioning precisely as they were programmed, the diagnostic computers show "No Fault Found." Technicians are currently unequipped to address underlying factory coding parameters without direct oversight from factory engineers. Safety Implications and Requested Actions: This issue is widely documented and heavily discussed within the global Škoda owner community (such as Briskoda forums), where countless owners of 2019+ Facelift models experience the exact same motorway masking behavior. Having the left-hand side of the road go completely dark on a high-speed motorway slip road is a severe safety hazard. Furthermore, blinding oncoming drivers across a central highway reservation violates UK road traffic safety expectations. As a dedicated Škoda owner, I am requesting that this matter be escalated directly to your Technical Support, Product Engineering, and Software Quality Assurance Teams at factory level. I am requesting that Škoda investigate this RHD navigation-override bug and issue a software correction or Field Campaign update to properly align the LHD/RHD orientation profiles inside Modules 09, A5, and 4B. I expect an official acknowledgment of this complaint within 14 business days, outlining the steps Škoda UK will take to escalate this to the product development team. Yours sincerely, [Your Signature] [Your Printed Name]

I bought myself “new” car this week.

Sorry @Warrior193. I did not get any notifications of replies - again! No, the problem is not resolved but still working on diagnostics after dealer had the car for six days and could not find any fault. But I now have two clear DTCs. B110311 Digital Radio antenna 1 Short Circuit to ground U40600 Static current too high (this one is intermittent) With the help of ChatGPT (which can now even correctly interpret photos!) I am homing in on the aerial fault as it might be stopping the car from sleeping as I believe the shark fin aerial has an amplifier. But Having taken down the rear section of headliner I have been unable to disconnect the blue FAKRA connector. Anyone know how to release it? I will upload a photo.

Sounds like a plan, but sounds like you ate near Bridlington, if so have a word with Kieran at East Yorkshire Retrofit Solutions Ltd I am sure he can help

I’ve got the boot mat, Lee. It’s excellent.

A couple of things that my previous Superb could never do, is being able to put the AC on before you use the car and then being able to leave it on when you park up and go the shops. Don't sound much but "how nice" that was today.

Thanks Sussamb, I checked my sunglasses but it wasn’t the issue. It seem to be getting less so I think it may be some debris in the climate control system which is slowly clearing

When the driver's is opened (Left for me, right for you) part of the car wakes up. Primarily BCM and fuel pump. This is why (if wired correctly) you can use the Edmundsen navigation system, while the key is off and such.

Just ambiguous numbers without any reference on the Y axis. It might as well be 5 cow per mile

If you check the MOT history the very first MOT shows the car failed as both front tyres were worn right through to the ply/cords which in my mind is not a sign of a well looked after and cared for car, think carefully before deciding what is best for you, personally I would reject it and look for another well looked after car, there are plenty out there, take your time and the right car will turn up for you.

Does sound like heat island conditions. Having spent much of my time at Heathrow I have experienced concrete heat island mucho.

I purchased the car from dm Keith ŠKODA, sent pics over, if they will put it right I’ll keep if not I’m back in the 07 Citroen c1 and another month on autotrader 😭😂 but thanks everyone for feedback 👍👍

It's an Heliport lots of tarmac and concrete.

Looking at the poor filler job in image 1, plus the rust appearing in the others, my guess would be that the repair was nothing much more than a DIY Bondo [tm] and a 'blow-over' paint job. A quick online search suggests a proper rear quarter panel replacement can run to £3k or more - is the Stealer prepared to do that?

And the figures will all be used to determine "average global temperatures" so whatever happens with co2 the fear mongering will continue?

That you are not native English speaker is not the problem, you do write well ... heck, your tutorial for the Haldex is great - so do not worry 😉 The BIG problem is that you are a traitor and have abandoned us as a Superb owner, so every time you come lurking again here, you lose a bit of connection with our reality, hence you are mixing up the words 😄😜🤗

Temperatures were / are well over 30C so unless one is fresh out of tropical zone then it is uncomfortable and especially, like now, when the humidity is so high. I am emptying the water drain every couple of hours as the air-conditioning unit is taking so much water out of the cooled air. Think I will get another one of these units for the upstairs, exhaust the hit air in to the loft ad i have before. Prices gone nuts as well as choice. Got my 7000 BTU one for £200 with a window kit but now they seem to have spiked up in price. One supplier wanted £999 for a 12000 BTU aircon unit. Con forvorice rather than con for conditioning. Lots of evaporation units trying to pass off as proper air con units. They work a bit but not enough for neaf blood temperatures.

Usually this is fitted either for addressing vibration, noise, or protection of a component behind it. Sometimes they are just "packed in", sometimes glued, sometimes held with a clip. Lack of it on the other side is difficult to assess - it can be a deliberate design, for only the area needed (according to the principle of "maximum cost reduction" 😄), or, most likely, with time, the miles, or the mighty hand of someone that has worked on the car in its life, it has become lost ... 😄

Believe, the sun screens are a great advantage, from heat protection and also for some privacy aspect ... only problem with it, the clips that hold it are a bit flimsy ... and a funny shape. After hearing the "klin klin klin" once or twice, now I am very careful when comes time to take them out ... and if I leave the car for wash/detailing, I actually do it myself. I got the floor mat, and is great also the rubber/weatherproof part, the only drawback is that is heavyyyy .... if you need to access the lower part of the luggage compartment, better to take it out and put it aside. I've tried a few times to lift the vario floor together with the mat, and boy it proves your muscles ... 🙃

See Activating SmartLink on Swing 3 I have never tried it but it looks it worked for most of users.

Just didn’t sniff test, up to full temp and on power for 3 mins, liquid stayed blue. So hoping that’s a positive sign.

Well, just because you never had it happen in Scotland does not mean it was not a thing. I have tried to Google it but have not found any real answer to that. But it has been happening to McLaren 765LTs apparently and been the subject of a recall, so it is not an unknown thing, even with today's modern cars. McLaren recalls 765LT because the rear window could fly off | Driving I did find this AI answer, though. AI Overview In the 1970s and 1980s, as automakers transitioned from traditional rubber gaskets to glued-in (bonded) glass, early adhesives frequently failed to hold. When the cabin was sealed and doors were slammed, air pressure and twisting body flex would force rear windows (and windshields) to pop out completely. Some famous vehicles—and specific manufacturing issues—highlight this transition: Rover SD1 (1976): Widely celebrated as one of the first production cars to adopt bonded windscreens in the UK. Early models were plagued by structural flexing, poor-quality early urethane adhesives, and improperly primed bonding surfaces. This combination often resulted in the screens simply popping out under pressure or stress. [1, 2] TVR Tasmin (1980): Known as one of the first production cars in the world to heavily incorporate a bonded glass design (both windshield and rear heating element). The early bonding techniques used on its fiberglass chassis resulted in infamous issues where the glass would lose adhesion. [1] Malaise Era "Pop-Out" Issues (Late 70s/Early 80s): During the era of expanding body panels and experimental urethane formulas, several General Motors and Chrysler coupes with massive, radical wraparound back glass suffered blowout issues if the adhesive hadn't cured properly. [1, 2] The Hatchback/Door Slam Pressure: This phenomenon wasn't always a defect; it was frequently caused by the sudden increase in internal cabin air pressure when doors were slammed or hatchbacks were dropped while the windows were rolled up. Without an adequate escape route for the air, the pressure would push outward directly on the glass. Also, it seems according to the Toyota Owners Club that on some Aygo and Aygo X club models, the rear side windows have been known to blow out; see photo. So it is less BS than you thought, and it is true; this also happened to a bus driver when I was doing my apprenticeship in the late 60s/early 70s, so I actually know this to be a fact. His car was a Vauxhall Victor as shown in photo 2.

Well it was a thing. I think it started with Vauxhall Vivas in the early days when started glueing the back window and windscreens on rather than using rubber with wedging bead that been used for years. It happened more on motorways, which of course you probably never had up North at the time this was happening.

Hi mate thanks for your reply, yes it’s Skoda used approved, apparently they did not notice the ooor repair on there inspection 😅

@Graham Butcher Pickup truck doing 27 mpg and really windows up or down or AC at coolest makes no difference for cost of running. And for an EV i have done 170 miles yesterday for £9 and still have 30 miles left. If i want the windows open or the dogs do to smell what ever smells there are then i could not care about efficiency. Hot road surfaces, all season tyres fitted. If hypermilling is the mission then yes it matters. As it is EV chargers seem to be getting even more plentiful and pretty devoid of users. Likely because of the ridiculous cost to charge at many of them.

I would remove head and check gasket anyway. You may be lucky and a new one is all thats needed. Could be valve stem seals thats causing oil burn or failing turbo seals. On the 1.9tdi BXE there are cheap kits to lock up engine when replacing timing belt and fairly straight forward to do. On the cam pulley there are three bolts that sometimes need loosened to tweek belt position/timing slightly. Alasdair

In truth, however, cars are far more efficient with the windows closed and the AC cranked all the way up. Having windows open while driving imposes a far higher amount of drag on the car and hence higher consumption, regardless of what type of powerplant it has. I think that some people just can't believe that, regardless of their age, etc. I know of people far younger than me, with a university education, who have their windows open, rather than use the aircon because they believe the misinformation that it robs engine power so must cost more. I remember back in the 70s and 80s, when many cars would have their back windows forced out with the pressure inside coming from being driven too fast with windows open.

^^^ Doomed all doomed. I have fully working AC (Maybe 14*oC is the coolest the air comes out at.) and still had the windows open when it was 29*oC. Because fresh flowing air is nice. Wind deflectors fitted. But sometimes in town i have my window all the way down.

Welcome to the forum. Is it a 'Skoda Approved used car'? What is obvious as to previous damage and repairs? Repairs should be to Factory Standard for the sake of the Corrosion Warranty. If the panel repair is poor then yes you should be rejecting the car. The 'Rigorous' Pre sales inspections and prep must have been ignored or carried out by TOMMY. One of the Deaf dumb and blind kids that Skoda Dealerships like to employ.

You might be right about that. But don't forget that in Bulgaria(and most of the Balkan countries), if a policeman stops you, he'll always find something to fine you 🤣

100k extra deaths across Europe i reckon. There were 70k extra deaths in the 2003 of which 2k were UK butvibthink that will be much higher tgan then as the Heat Dome is larger this time. BEVs are improving their range ie not so much dip as battery cehistry improves and its looking like sodium cells will help here. Maybe all sodium or maybe a mixture of lithium and sodium. Even my two smaller battery choices with the R5 and Scenic the range had not really effected my journeys times much at all and the big fall in charging costs mean if I have to add 5 or 10 minutes to the journey I am comforted by the super liwcrunning cost to what I use to pay and that was when i had a company fuel card and the EVs are still way cheaper, home charging benefit accepted is a fortunate situation eben more so that my wallboxes were subsided for one and a freebie with the car with the other. Still dont know the full real range of either car but i will explore that in the coming months.

Thanks everyone, disconnected the motor, and with a lot of brute force, got the glass up without breaking it. Too hot to think about what to do about fixing it properly.

A few from Floors Castle gardens today.

Yes, I believe it would also dipped right beam but as I said it's not tested. I think with back up and making a note of parameters before any changes it will be safe to try.

Is not the Explorer a VW MEB platformed car ? Dont know if it modular like many EVs that can just have one or so the offending packs replaced. Renault UK has about a dozen specialist places that can do this and then there are independents like Cleverly.

Done about 14k a year with it since buying it at 17 (in 2021). Just laps the miles up no bother at all. 56 plate and keeps going.

For everyone interested, I put the newest versions ALL in ONE link: MIB3_Skoda_SW_1941_1969_1985_1989 I upgraded with this files one by one, no issues. Hope it helped.

Jeesus - you need to get to A&E quick-smart matey!