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I think mass means earth.

At each service mine has had 0w-20 long life oil(508 00 compliant), with the variable interval scheme (up to 20,000 miles or two years). It’s now at 75,000 miles and running sweetly. OK it’s not a VRS, a 1.5tsi manual 150ps, so a less powerful engine but the 0w-20 seems absolutely fine. These pages may help too… https://engineneeds.com/0w20-508-spec-oil/?__cf_chl_f_tk=dyfYG1VOj7B8tmhnWC7_1UVGIRnvr1stFuf6dcboqR4-1783416265-1.0.1.1-y4o4iJkM4R7O.wSiWbsy1gSET0kY7inpRpL8IbMcpx0

Various BEV,s drive totally different. Some require virtually no touching of the brakes and there are variouis types of using regen braking and degrees of regen braking. Easy to use Shif-ters, paddles or switches are best to use just like dropping a gear IMO. Motorway speeds as in 70 mph can achieve good efficiency dependent on weather conditions and ambient temps and maybe using no or little regen braking. It is very much about which BEV it is and how simple or complex. Sometimes just driving and putting in D and getting a move on is far more efficient than over thinking and messing about. ie driving with passengers, watch the road but not thinking too much.

Yes yes we get 99ron or 95ron in Jersey. I always used 99 since i had the car, mapped or stock. If i go away to Germany or Austria i always use Shell V-power💪🏻💥 not cheap but hey...smiles per gallon+ it's better for the car

Cheers Greebo That is very interesting. I think while I’ve got a ramp booked this Thursday for a whole day, I will remove the front bumper and inspect intercooler properly. The underload whistle annoyingly comes front the exactly same area, top passenger side. It’s so characteristic and loud it kind of makes it easy to pin point the location from the cabin. This is why I changed the diverter valve, well Skoda did, because a failed valve would produce both noises, the under load whistle and that wooshing boost sound when releasing throttle. I see if I can replicate the whistle in Drive on the ramp, that while 100% confirm the location. As mentioned already, the wooshing is defo an excess of boost being pushed back the the air box way, it’s clear as water but if the whistle comes from the same location then I have no bloody clue what to look for other than trying another brand new diverter valve? Thank you for your input, I appreciate it. Same goes to Alesdair and everyone else who replied so far. I mean it. I used to was very active on Audi A8/S8 forum helping people every day from fault finding to actual fixes and retrofits but this bloody car and engine drive me insane. I actually lost sleep because of it because I will not accept Skodas “it’s normal, they do that” until I find the issue.

It does open a massive can of worms but it's better to do it all rather then coming back to it multiple times.As they say, pay once cry once 😁 my mechanic has managed to fit my BCS Powervalve downpipe without dropping the sub frame

Someone will be able to help a bit more in this section then 👍🏻

I actually bought it in January, but only just getting round to properly understanding it and researching how to set up my profile, what to do about servicing etc. and thought it would be a good idea to be on this forum, so greetings everyone.

Sorry, earth is right, apparently one that runs between the chassis and the motor, didn't get any more information out of him.

Hi, new here and new to the Skoda/VW cars, although we have an issue that we'll raise elsewhere this place looks to be an abundance of info, so am looking forward to getting some advice that could solve a few problems.

Welcome to the old world! Enjoy your hols I'm starting to notice losing a few mm height on the bottle level so will look at this as either culprit or potential...if they have them on the Gen4

Haven't driven it much since I did the change as I'm currently in Europe for a family holiday. Hence not enough mileage yet to b sure that it's all good. I'm not back home until the end of this month. So hopefully mid-August I'll know for sure.

VW504 00 / 507 00 0w 30 FS III is just perfect for your 2.0 TSI. No need for the VW508 00 / 509 000 0w 20 FS IV that VW Group / Skoda went with for the WLTP Results (RDE2) in the EU / Europe regardless of it being the best for engines long long life. Australia has nothing to do with The World Wide Harmonised Testing that is not Real World Driving testing / emissions. Or even trusted around the whole world. 0w 30 FS better for the engine at higher temperatures than the 0w 20 FS.

Just picked her up from the electrician's, the only thing they could find was a single corroded mass cable, that leads to the computer and could potentially be the problem. They checked the throttle valve too, which was clean, so probably not the cause. It's been replaced so now we'll see. Interestingly it's not something you'd normally unmount when replacing a clutch set and removing transmission, but it is what it is. I'll report back if the behavior is gone

@jimmyw147 How is the car driven now. In the past it was good enough to regenerate the dpf. Short or long runs? If it’s only short runs, your issue is most likely there. The dpf needs to get hot for longish periods of time, 20 minutes is reasonable. A decent A road, dual carriageway or motorway would get the engine/dpf up to temp and give the dpf time to regenerate. Engine speed when warm at idle give an indication. If the engine is ticking over at 800 rpm, all is fine. At 1,000 rpm it needs a regen and the longer run normally returns idle back to 800.

Hi Warriors, lived in the windy Wairarapa until last October, so know what you mean!

Sent in PM

Hi Gerry, It’s a 2018 2.0L diesel, 110kW. Great fuel economy, but have to manage the DPF, which is slightly annoying. Also thinking about getting it tuned, as I understand this not only improves performance but fuel economy too. Anyhow, you’ll enjoy the North Island. Not as mountainous, but still pretty awesome, and you have the added attractions of major NZ city’s like Wellington and Auckland.

I think it’s probably worse on some vehicles. Mine was a long term hire car and it’s gone back so not an issue for me anymore but if I had bought one I would have rejected it. 5 weeks old you can’t just hand it back for a full refund (outside the 30 day window now) but you can still reject if you give them one opportunity to resolve and they don’t manage to fix it.

Add a subframe alignment kit while you’re planning as well then. Makes life a little bit simpler for setting the alignment up after refitting the subframe. Some bars come as a kit, so you get front and rear for a bit of a discount. If you go this route, add a quality set of adjustable rear drop links, as otherwise you’ll end up with the plastic factory rear links snapping.

No, the timing hasn't changed. She's always been a bit slower to get up to speed when the AC is on and that remains the case. I believe most of the times when it turns off the AC is on, but it's definitely not a requirement to get this to happen.

I've had such a thing a few times over the years on various cars, usually after changing brake pads.. this means the pistons being pushed more back into the caliper, and the faintest smear of surface rust has been enough to make it all stick. Glad it's sorted, @chrisski

I'm a double interloper here as I no longer drive a Skoda and also drive a PHEV not an EV! My PHEV being a Seat Leon with the 1.5 engine/powertrain which I believe is similar to the one in the latest Superbs etc. My old diesel Octavia would get pretty near to the "official" consumption figures over a long run at steady speed (70mph) on fast roads (motorways in the UK). However I believe EVs are less good at matching official figures on motorways. I think this is because, during the official test cycles, and thinking about the total energy used across the cycle, compared to my old diesel, an EV uses a lower % of that total energy during the urban parts of the test cycle, due to regen, and therefore a higher % of the total energy over the faster roads. Whereas my old Octavia had no regen capability so would have used a relatively higher % of the total energy over the urban section, and a lower % on motorways. This meant it was easier to get near to official figures on a long motorway run in my old diesel than it would be for an EV. One other thing which my PHEV does (and I imagine EVs do) is use regen braking to reduce speed, for instance if you have cruise control set on a road with downhill sections. This can be very useful but every time you use regen braking there's still some energy loss. So over a road which gently goes up and down a few times, you pay a price for holding that speed as it applies power then regens with every energy conversion losing some energy. For that type of road I prefer to coast in intelligent automatic regen mode as mentioned above (interestingly I don't have ACC but it still slows me down when following a vehicle in front).

My OEM wipers were poor from day 1. The blades didn't seem to sit correctly in the frame despite best efforts. Eventually replaced them with Bosch wipers and they are perfect.

Hi Alasdair, Diverter valve it's brand new fitted by Skoda 3 weeks ago and it has made no difference, but I doubt it's faulty. They hardly ever go wrong, but I reached the stage where I had to do something after spending £1350 on diagnostics. Diverter valve was £150 fitted.

Thanks, NascarMike. A toothbrush wouldn't normally fit into the space and go around the bend behind the spokes. But you started me thinking that maybe I could warm up the plastic handle to soften it, and then bend it to 90°. That might make a workable custom tool. I'll give it a try at the weekend and report back.

before the post i did the following -tested the fuses, none blown all have continuity, all have clean pins -did the flaps adaptation, just like in the video sent by @ords -ac installation was filled like 3-4 months ago After the post (2 days ago): -tested the car with VCDS (in the middle of the day, when ventilation wasn t working): 393476 - Air Blower B10BE 13 [009] - Open Circuit [New feature! Extended UDS fault detail is only supported by current gen. interfaces] Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 4 Reset counter: 146 Mileage: 262266 km Date: 2026.07.02 Time: 17:35:27 Voltage terminal 30: 13.5 V Outside temperature: 36.0 °C Inside temperature: 38.6 °C Blower voltage: specified value: 10.1 V Blower voltage: actual value: 25.4 V 393473 - Air Blower B10BE 96 [009] - Component Internal Failure [New feature! Extended UDS fault detail is only supported by current gen. interfaces] Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 147 Mileage: 262266 km Date: 2026.07.02 Time: 17:35:27 Voltage terminal 30: 13.5 V Outside temperature: 36.0 °C Inside temperature: 38.6 °C Blower voltage: specified value: 10.1 V Blower voltage: actual value: 25.4 V After this i took out the blower out of the car, and put it on a car battery at 12V, it spinned, and fast. I measured with a multimeter from car to blower: 12V on the plug i measured then the resistor/command module (5Q0 907 521 E) that is mounted on the blower. I measured the resistance of the 4 pin plug that is on the command resistor, and from the compinations of measuring from 1-2, 1-3, 1-4, 2-3, 2-4, 3-4, i ve got resistances of 30-50x megaohms, one in the order of 10x kiloohms and OL. now i think that this command resistor has some internal damage and i will try to replace it, hope it will work. Again if anyone has any ideea of that, or if what i did seems ok or not, please leave an answear. Again thanks in advance, have a nice day!

If you’re attempting 0-100km/h times then you’ve bought the wrong car! Plus, I think @travs may disagree on the sporty part. Yes, but the lower dogbone mount does also ruin compliance and nothing you do will stop the wheel hop. I love my car, but standing starts are never good. I think mine would be dropped by my mates R32, and that’s 100bhp down and 20 years older. I don’t think the standard vRS really has enough power for an AWD system to make a difference - standing start aside. The FWD is more engaging, and results in less drivetrain loss. I’ve had mine up against a mate’s A45s and, to be fair, wasn’t instantly dropped - which is very impressive.

MG Midget running gear. Sounded quite mean.

I mean I could buy another diverter valve. Should it try older 06H145710D instead of what’s on the car 06N145710B? I’ve got a genuine air filter coming too. It appears that filter isn’t brand new, just a very very clean 4 years old filter. Another thing I haven’t tried is replacing both sensor, bottom charge pipe and manifold past throttle body.

I mean what are the chances of a brand new genuine diverter valve being faulty? Unless they manage to damage it somehow to save the embarrassment. I was convinced this was it but due to a valid warranty on the car I had to pay them to replace it. No codes, ever. It’s one of them faults thet keeps you up at night to the point you start questioning your sanity, BUT I know this ain’t normal, period.

That sounds like a nightmare to track down. Only thing I can think of is the original boost pressure relief valve was faulty and maybe the new one as well or pressure sensor sending wrong info to ecu. My old 1.9tdi used to overboost randomly due to a sticking actuator but generally it went into limp mode and threw up a code. The fact that you have no codes is a weird one. Alasdair

They did - it's called the Superb 280. If you want and AWD vRS, it's called a Golf R Estate/Cupra ST. The LSD makes my car handle far better than it has any business to. Is it a GTI TCR? No, but for a FWD MQB saloon, it does a very good job of pretending to be a hot hatch. That being said, it's not magic - I've yet to launch my car with any success, 245ps or 350ps. Frankly, below 30mph it does struggle a bit - but that's just FWD or RWD in a nutshell.

The wooshing sound is 99% air being dumped back to the air box. It’s clear as water. The whistling sound only under load. I’ve spent another hour today with the camera looking all around the exhaust side, hot side of the turbo and no signs of the blow by. Nothing, around the gaskets or clamps.

Have you tried a length of hose one end to your ear and the other moved about engine bay. It may help narrow down where the noise is coming from. Son in laws td5 landrover makes a whistle noise due to bad exhaust manifold gasket but only at higher revs when turbo kicks in?? Alasdair

Kia Ora Julian, welcome to the forum. Beautiful place to be.

Data 260701.pdf The above pdf is the result of loading the data file received into Excel and linking in the Data Dictionary information. This is a Nerds paradise! That owners can get the data from the portal without using the My Skoda App, is interesting - the data dictionary contained at least 10 times as many data items as I received, there are a lot of data items related to EV and Hybrids in terms of usage (consumption, distance time etc).

Can someone send me the link for v1985? Thank you!

Update: I have been to the dealer and they will have the car in under the extended warranty and we'll go from there. Interestingly, I get the Parkers newsletter. Their journalist had a Kamiq DSG on long term trial and was full of praise for it EXCEPT that it has gone into Gearbox Emergency Mode on several occasions!

This is the exact thread I wish I found sooner! I have the exact same issue on a 1.5tsi mild hybrid Kodiaq Sportline. On top of the already “extremely sensitive” emergency brake which is a danger in itself, the jerky brakes are very distracting to the point of not having any confidence in the car braking correctly. I’ve brought it back to the dealer and they too told me it’s the characteristics of the car…. An they applied an “update” to the car. Honestly don’t like driving this car… and to add this is my 4th Kodiaq so I’m used to driving this model since 2018.

Handling? Not really. You'll do a better 0-60 time than a non-AWD TDI, but that's about it - I'll take my LSD any day of the week. AWD does help cars put the power down better, but unless you're 'handling' at 25mph, or in snow, the TDI doesn't have enough power for this to make much of a difference. I wanted a Cupra ST, but that's because I like doing 0-60 and wanted to take it over 400bhp. Even with 350bhp, my Octavia did very well, except for launch (which was hilarious). AWD does have handling advantages, but on a track, or on the edge of grip - not something I imagine you'll be doing in a TDI on a potholed B road. So yes, having AWD does give an improvement over FWD, but on a 350bhp+ car on a track - you won't be able to notice it in a sub-200bhp Octavia. For handling, RWD>FWD>AWD. AWD is boring.

I would not be taking no for an answer as it makes the car almost undriveable in my opinion. Especially as the new Sportline I have has no such issues. Show them this thread. Ring Škoda too.

The dealer made me an offer I couldn't refuse so I swapped. Same model, same spec, even the same colour!!

Took a pic just now of the elongation in the hole that the wastegate actuator attaches to on another manifold. A really extreme example I expect. I think the one on the car isn't as bad as this, but it's easy to imagine the electronics/electrics having a hard time trying to position the wastegate accurately with this degree of slop in the system.

Because they want to get at least 1 timing belt change in before the car is at an age where the owner doesn't really care about main dealer servicing. This is a bit of a pointless discussion anyhow because the waterpumps that VAG fit either leak or the solenoid operated sleeve fails and causes overheating way before 5 years so might as well do the timing belt job then

Following on from nony74 post, today I turned the car off before opening the filler cover and it refuelled ok with no issues, so that may be the solution.

Do not open the fuel filler flap until you are ready to refuel! Opening the flap, turning the ignition back on, and then refueling is not possible due to a valve inside the tank.