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Whats working for me is, turn the fans on (blowers), then turn on the air conditioning. Whenever you're turning the blowers on and off, dont turn the air con off first, just press the off button to switch the whole lot off. That way the air con will always come on when the blowers turn on. This then won't start up the secondary heater pump, creating the pressure mentioned earlier. As the air con runs on a separate system. Its worked for me, and is a work around until I get the matrix swapped out for a new one.

Well, thanks to all the clever folks here, and Amazon - job done. I looked at the tool to set the Rivnut, but worried a little about being able to get its head into the gap between the sheetmetal of the bodypanel and the folded lip for the boot seal, so I resorted to the wee toolie that came with the baggie of M8 Rivnuts off Amazon (basically the bolt and nut idea but with a roller bearing thrust washer and some hardened steel washers each side of that ). I did a bit of incremental drilling until I could fit the Rivnut into the hole (interestingly the hole seems to have some backing material because I was unable to get the hole to just a hole in a steel sheet). I tweaked it pretty tight, put it all together and so far so good. I issued some very stern instructions to HerLoveliness about controlling and regulating the travel of the boot lid up and down, with the bullet points One - if you hear a clack at anytime, STOP! or be prepared for glass everywhere; and Two - if this lets go, we throw the car away and she can buy the replacement. Hidden in my back pocket are still One - removing the rear inside plastic trim panel and removing whatever forms the backing material and thus reducing the hole the Rivnut sits in to a piece of sheet steel, and Two - using another of the Rivnuts from the Amazon baggie and tweaking it much harder and thus tighter. Let's see....thanks for all the suggestions, much appreciated. The car passed the Portuguese equivalent of the annual MOT yesterday with a small note about oil leaks, and so it lives to drive another year. The oil leak - I replaced the injector wiring harness a few months ago and maybe I pinched the new rocker cover gasket on the back edge somehow. Otherwise I have to begin looking for it whilst hoping hard that it isn't a main seal. It somewhere on the back side/firewall side of the motor I think - turbo/inlet manifold side. I hope.... The front is clean and dry. What a superb little car - it often gets 20km/litre, we bought it for 3500 Euro shortly after arriving in the country with not as much as most immigrants five years ago, we have spent a bit on it but not much because I can do the work myself....it owes us absolutely nothing. Thanks again, people......much appreciated.

A while since i had such a horror of a session trying to charge anywhere. b This was Edinburgh city. Hermiston park and ride. 5 rapids. 1 occupied. 3 out of order. Last 1 i tried was working. Not taking charge place Scotland anymore. Not taking a Credit card. WattStop App required Samsung phone only for that. I had a Sony But it is by Fuuse. So Electroverse card worked. Max charge speed 30kW. It was roasting . Had allready driven 2 hours. 2 dogs and grand daughter with me and 2 hours more to go. Peed me right off. I would happily have been paying £2 a litre and getting 30 mpg than paying 61 pence a kWh.

I must apologise for not noting that my vehicle is a Greenline model and does not have a rear window wiper. I might also say right now that water in the spare wheel bay is a topic I least expected to cope with.......................................after all this is a SKODA !

On my Octavia I couldn't see any difference between a speed limit that had been picked up by the camera and one that came from the map data. On my Honda Jazz I get different displays for the two sources and it's illuminating comparing the two. The one from the camera goes blank about a mile after the last sign it spotted.

In RO, the oil is Castrol Long Life 0W20, code GOIS65577M2EUR VAG Original Ol LL IV FE, while the filter is indeed Mann made, code 06L 115 562 B MANN-FILTER, 3RG I have the same from 3 different dealers, so it should be accurate. Hope it helps.

Is there water on the seal at the base of the opening for the rear hatch or inside the hatch behind the teim? If so the culprit could be the rubber grommet that goes round the wiper shaft and seals against the glass. That was what the issue was with our Octavia and Kodiaq

“30% worn” is not a valid reason to replace brake discs. It also does not mean braking efficiency has fallen by 30%. Disc thickness has relatively little effect on the braking torque available in an ordinary stop. That is determined mainly by hydraulic pressure, caliper clamping force, pad friction, disc radius and tyre grip. A disc can therefore continue to produce normal braking force while substantially worn. Manufacturers specify an absolute minimum thickness. For example: new disc: 25.0 mm minimum thickness: 23.0 mm measured thickness: 24.4 mm Such a disc has lost only 0.6 mm, but it has used 30% of its permitted wear allowance. It still has 70% of its usable wear remaining. Replacing it solely on that basis would be premature. In such a case I would ask the garage to provide three figures: the original nominal thickness; the manufacturer’s minimum thickness; the actual measured thickness of each disc.

https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/ Put the original size tyre in and then play with 16 inch tyre sizes to find which has the closest circumference so that your speedo doesn't over/ under state your speed

Plenty of posts about EA888.3 tuning available all over the internet. I would personally prefer a custom tune - QST are probably the nearest in Haywards Heath. If you wanted to look at a flash map, my money would be on Revo or Racingline. VAS Motion for the former, and The Phirm for the latter. You don’t need any hardware, beyond a car that is in good, healthy condition. Make sure you’ve had a DSG service and VAQ if applicable.

Well that has thrown up a can of worms! Oil pressure switch malfunction NoX absorber Bank one below threshold. This normally happens when it is being regenerated. When reset that stops Databus Error value received Just to complete the problems, Left Front ABS wheel speed sensor magnetic field too low Tyre pressure signal malfunctioning Electro mechanical parking brake wheel speed sensor implausible signal

Amazingly I've found a fairly local English-speaking garage who have agreed to look at it. I'll take it tomorrow morning and hope they can do a pressure test there and then. As I was on my way this morning to check the garage out I had a call from a recovery vehicle saying they were on their way to collect the car..... This after I had explained the situation to the AA yesterday and said what I would be doing. The guy at the garage said he definitely didn't recommend sealant except as a get-you-home last resort. He seems good. The oil seems clean, so hoping it's something fairly simple like a split pipe or a hose connector come loose. It's a great old car so I hope I can keep it going for many more miles. Much much nicer than the new (17km) Mazda MX30 hire car I had via the AA.

My car seems to have two ways to detect speed limit signs, either via the map data or via the camera. If it misinterprets a road sign (such as one relating to another road at a junction) then this will override the map data. The camera also fails to see road signs covered by overgrown trees and bushes, or on overhead gantries, or when the sign is not the standard round shape. (I have set the car to only display the current road sign and not change my speed because of these failures... more modern cars may have problems doing this!) Occasionally the map data is also incorrect, and the speed limit is displayed in km/hour rather than miles/hour! There was one particular stretch of dual carriageway where the car would display an 80 sign rather than the correct 50! Chris

The recommended width for the hatchback is 135cm so should look fine, it's only 8.5cm wider each side than the 118cm. https://www.roofbox.co.uk/scripts/rbvehsel4_tab.php?emulate=roofbar&query=8320&vptype=645079&brand=Thule%20WingBar%20black The restriction for the estate will be down to how Thule make the bar, eg you can only mount the feet up to 25cm from the end of the bar. We mount on the rail which is further in than where the mounts will be on a hatchback so the width is restricted

He have the old dongle Version

Im running a vcds from a work college that does mechanic work in his off time and he says that he bought official vcds and current version we are using is 26.03. @Cairus I dont know if thats the latest version but thats the one we are working on right now

Wonder if you could remove matrix hoses and join together to bypass it? Alasdair

I haven't swapped the better turbo in yet. Next month is my plan. I did log some data, but wasn't really sure what 'correct behaviour ' looks like. I'm fairly confident that a turbo that has done about 120 thousand miles less should be better.

This image is not from a forum member but caught my eye : There's a good page full of images of Scotland on the Beeb this morning: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/ce8j873e660o

No 5% VAT on Home Electricity from 1st October 2026. Good for those charging at home or others homes or with battery storage and offpeak or anytime cheaper tariffs.

So the options are: Cat. You can have fast cat or decat. GPF. For countries where it’s not a legal requirement, the option won’t have threaded holes for sensors to plug in as I guess they won’t be in the loom? Where it is legal, you’ll have the locations for sensors to be plugged in, but either way there won’t be a GPF. You’ll get an error unless you map it out which usually comes with Stage 2 remaps as downpipe is a requirement. Additional Silencer option - where customers want to remove the GPF but retain a stock sound, an additional silencer box can be added. Doesn’t seem to impact flow, as that’s more about the bore of the pipe, freer-flowing cat and GPF removal, but I wouldn’t be surprised if it did have a minor effect. So for me, I’d have to go with all of that - all the go, none of the show. Keeps in line with the Q-car nature of it all.

Focus is best in class. You're never getting that kind of suspension on a cheap version of a VW. I got kinda used to it 😬

UPDATE: Direct Technical Validation & Expanding the Global Dataset (16K Views!) First of all, a massive thank you to the community. Crossing 16,000 views on this thread highlights just how many premium Facelift owners are silently tracking this safety issue. 1. Cross-Border Engineering Confirmation (The Polish Connection) Over the weekend, I expanded our technical research into the European Škoda networks (specifically superbclub.pl). The data coming back from Left-Hand Drive (LHD) European drivers is an absolute engineering revelation.Multiple owners of late-model Facelift Superbs (including flagship 2023 280HP SportLine models) have confirmed the exact parallel matrix dropout behavior on empty Continental expressways. When accelerating to expressway speeds in AUTO mode, their lighting processors aggressively shut down the left and center sectors of the road for no logical reason. The Technical Core: This cross-border data perfectly validates our underlying architectural theory. It proves that the "Highway Mode" satellite navigation mapping logic embedded across the global MQB platform codebase is fundamentally flawed. In Europe, this aggressive left-side masking is a severe design oversight that limits vision; but when mirrored onto UK Right-Hand Drive (RHD) vehicles without reversing the geometric coordinates, it creates a critical safety hazard—completely blacking out our actual UK driving lanes and slip roads while over-extending the right beam over the central barrier into oncoming traffic. 2. Current Case Status with Škoda UK Executive Office My formal technical addendum, backed by our crowdsourced community data and definitive motorway video telemetry, is currently under active review by Customer Relations Management at head office.Following a premature attempt to close the file at their desk, I have firmly rejected the closure. The case file remains fully active as "Pending Retailer Assessment" ahead of my specialized, factory-authorized diagnostic slot at Faintree Shrewsbury on Monday, 24 August 2026. I have also placed a formal demand for a fully covered courtesy car to resolve the family transport logistics caused by this extended factory logging session. 3. Continuous Data Gathering (Keep the DMs Coming!) Ahead of the August inspection, I am continuing to compile our anonymized global tracking list. If your car suffers from this high-speed motorway matrix collapse, please drop a comment below or send me a private message with just your: Vehicle Make & Model Model Year Country Variant (UK/RHD or Europe/LHD) Note: For absolute cyber security and data privacy, please DO NOT send your VIN or registration number. We only require the model specification to map the software trend. Thank you again for the incredible momentum. I will update the thread soon!

I had 135s on my V70, they didn’t fit the Superb as the width between the rear bars is bigger than the minimum width on the bars. 127s, are fine, they hang over enough to get 4 kayaks on but you don’t brain yourself getting out of the car.

The flashing glowplug indicator acts as a general fault light for certain faults, emissions problems might be one of them. You are going to need to get it scanned for any DTCs logged.

None of the after market intakes will unblock the closed off air flow behind the grill. All they do is remove the blocked section on the intake itself. Essentially it's like having a blocked nose on one side. U can see in the first image that the air intake on the right, even when unblocked, is still blocked by the flow coming through the front grille. I don't know why Skoda does this. To remove the restriction, u need to remove the front bumper and dremel (cut) out the plastic trim on the right side. I did this to mine a long long time ago. If u want to take full advantage of the factory intake or aftermarket intake - u need to unblock the air flow on the right side. Factory setup has the right side airflow blocked. Air flow into the air intake (top) blocked on right side. Close up of the blocked air flow on right side, from factory. Close up of unblocked air flow on left side, from factory. Air flow into the air intake (top) after being cut out on the right side.

no real updates as had family things taking up life and lost motivation i guess, but have fitted the black silicone coolant hoses 😁 and have a new genuine landing panel to drop at the body shop for colour matched paint , new radiator , condenser and receiver dryer as well as new rad mounts so a/c can work again and she can keep cool 😎

Fearless!! VID-20260605-WA0013~2.mp4

We also attended GOTD25 Got the drop by @Stillstatic , mega show with euro vibes and people from all over Europe as well as PVW in attendance :)

clean old turd from pre hose pipe ban days :( not so clean now

Hi all, Again apologies for the late reply but it's been a bloody turgid affair to get to the point where I had my car returned to me today. Sounds like great news (which it is.) but... So, I submitted the independent report requesting a courtesy car and the Dealership promptly replied - 'We reject its findings and don't agree with it'. They were still of the opinion that the only way the damage could have been caused was by 'user error' despite how clear the report had been - that came directly from the Workshop manager at the dealership. They rejected the reports findings that this fault was present at the 'point of sale' outright. At this point my family were trying to coax me down from the ceiling by offering me various sedating medications and a G&T to calm me down. In all seriousness I was pretty despondent to be honest. Anyway, I tried something I've never done before and got the e mail of the CEO of the particular Dealership I was dealing with and e mailed them directly and explained the situation. To their credit his Executive Assistant phoned me within 5 minutes and was brilliant. She assured me that she would contact the Branch Manager and that they would be in contact with me within the hour. The Branch Manager did indeed contact me within the hour and clearly had been 'briefed' as he was almost too nice. He apologised and said that he was unaware of the issue at his branch and this was the first time he'd been made aware of the situation - that in itself was a pretty big warning sign for me. Although I'm a Paramedic I manage a big team and I NEVER like surprises, so I'd definitely want to know why there was this issue brewing that my team had not briefed me on. Anyway, he then informed me that although the dealership Head mechanic disagreed with the report, as a gesture of goodwill they would complete the repair under warranty, refund the cost of the independent inspection and provide me with a courtesy car. Great news. It took another 4 days to get the courtesy car, I still haven't had the request for my bank details to make the payment for the inspection and when I spoke to the Service manager again (4 days later) he was still saying that the Head mechanic didn't believe the report. Thanks to another forum member he PM'd me with some very useful information which I'll paste below: "HI, Just seen your post about clutch issue with the Kamiq, did you get it sorted in the end? Depending on what gearbox you have fitted and the date the vehicle was made this may help, The Information is from a Skoda tech webinar from September 2020. hope it helps, Vehicle specification  Model: Octavia III, Scala, Karoq, Kamiq, Fabia III  Engine: 1,0 TSI (EA 211) in combination with the manual gearbox MQ200  Complaint/Fault symptom  Clutch slips, smell of burning from the clutch area  After having been removed, the clutch is found to be burnt or degraded/fallen apart Technical background/Cause  Due to anticorrosion protection applied to the flywheel and the clutch, the friction value increase is much more slowly. This may lead to premature clutch failures.  Despite optimizing measures (plate lining of the clutch S308, the diaphragm spring of the pressure plate with temperature stability and decreased rpm in the transport mode), the premature heat overload of the clutch still sporadically occurs.  The clutch failures occur in the range from 10 km to several thousands km depending on how the vehicle is operated.  Measure/Production change  Parts without Anticorit have been fitted to the vehicles since CW 20/2019 (except for Fabia III, where the measure has not been implemented yet). After I sent this, would you believe it the Service manager contacted me and said that the engine mentioned in the above report corresponded to the one I had in my Kamiq and the damage, was, after all, caused by this manufacturers fault - he then asked me where I got the information from. It took every inch of my willpower not to chuffing explode. However, I dug deep, confirmed everything was being repaired and replaced and that it would be ready the next day. So, on Weds 16th June I went to collect the Kamiq from the dealership and brought it home. It drove perfectly. That is until I got to a set of traffic lights and had to stop to suddenly realise that when the engine was in idle there was a profound vibration coming through the steering wheel and the seat. I genuinely thought for a second that I was going nuts. I continue the drive as I'm nearly home, stop the car and ask my wife to get in and start the Kamiq up. Hey presto about a minute later she says WTF is that vibration and judder? Thank you Lord - it wasn't just me. I get straight on the phone to the Service manager who if I'm being completely honest did everything he possibly could (bar calling me nuts) to convince me that it would settle down. I point blank refused to accept that and asked him to read out to me the road test result and quality control report after the fix to the gearbox and clutch before the Kamiq was released back to me. Conveniently, he didn't have access to them. So, he arranged for a courtesy car to be delivered to my home address the next day and he would take away the Kamiq to get it looked at. 2 days later I hadn't heard anything (there's a pattern here....) so I called him and he confirmed that a high pressure pump had failed which was causing the juddering. They'd ordered the part and would have it fixed by today and get the car returned to me - which they did. After all the grief I'd gone though with this dealership they didn't even road test the bloody thing before they returned it to me?! As I keep saying I'm not a mechanic but this has to be a quality control issue surely? Time after time on these forums people talk about shoddy technicians and poor customer service. The car is back and well, it's different. It drives perfectly well, there is no judder but the old car just purred when it was in idle - it's a 1 litre petrol engine after all. Now, it's just that bit noisier and louder on acceleration. Is it something I can send back? No, but it's not the same. I hoping some of you will be able to reassure me that it'll settle down. Well, they still haven't asked for my bank details so they can refund me the cost of the inspection and despite 2 requests they haven't sent me a single copy of a list of the actual works carried out which my lease company are, not unreasonably, wanting. The bloody car didn't even come back with a valet!??!? Yes, a cursory sponge was put on the outside but the inside was filthy. If I was the service manager I would have had it come back looking like it had stepped off of the production line. So, there you have it. I will write back to the CEO and give them my experience. It won't be in the format of a complaint but it will be from the perspective of a very patient and reasonable service user that was treated like crap from day one, took the intervention of the CEO's office to intervene and even then they continued to **** it up. One last piece of advice please - it still stinks of a burnt clutch from the outside. It's fine when I get in the car but from the outside it still smells. Is that normal for a replacement clutch or just a hangover from the original smell when the thing was knackered. Lastly - thank you. Thank you to all of you that have taken the time to post and send me advice and encouragement. It's the internet at its best and I'm very appreciative of you all. Best BC