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Well that was quick and painless, thankfully! 👍 It turned out that, when the Turbo Actuator arm was replaced a couple of years ago (before I got the car) the housing hadn't been put back quite right, so it was rubbing on the arm and it had caused enough friction to register as a fault. A couple of minutes with a screwdriver and pliers and it was moving freely again Whilst having my own OBD reader might have told me the problem, I wouldn't have known where to look, so that's £60 well spent.

What he said ^ I wouldn’t bother doing it every 5k - it’s not remotely a performance engine and with newer oils, you get a fair bit longer before degradation. I just use the standard C5 0W-20 in mine. I spent a fair while thinking about swapping to 0W-30, before realising it didn’t really matter and I wasn’t really bothered. As long as you’re using decent oil (Millers, Castrol, OE, whatever), you’ll be fine. Opie Oils has some good information.

Same happened on my Octavia but in my case actuator was sticking and causing overboost randomly. I lubricated it and its been fine since.

Hello everyone, my name is Winston and I live in Sydney, Australia. I recently took delivery of a 2024 Octavia RS wagon. I have been a happy Skoda owner for over 10 years. I also have a 2007 Roomster and a 2014 Yeti. Luv 'em to bits.

A Dolomite Sprint, just around the corner from my house: Gaz

Hello everyone, I would like to give feedback to this topic: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/534598-overheating-problem-skoda-superb-year-2018/ Brothers from the Skoda Superb Facebook group in Turkey solved my problem. The problem was the lower bumper grille shutters. They were stuck. I removed the shutters, and now the coolant temperature no longer rises above 90°C under normal driving conditions. It reaches a maximum of 100°C when I drive at 230 km/h with an outside temperature of 26°C. The oil temperature is still quite high, but I think this is either a different issue or simply normal for these cars. Best regards

As above, generally my fronts wear quickest so when it comes the time to replace them, the rears go on the front and the new ones go on the rear. I want the front to give way first so the best tyres go at the back. Always the same make/model and only ever the 2 on the same axle. That is entirely my choice based on what I choose to believe etc. Each to their own and live and let live etc

Sounds like the issue I had but obviously needs to be looked at (check my post history to see the drama I went through!). Should be sorted FOC by Skoda Dealer even if car out of warranty (it if is the same issue - variator pulley bolts loosening themselves. Get it sorted ASAP as if they come out while driving could cause a lot more damage!).

Yes, that's what I did.

I hope you are all sitting down. The answer, none of the above. 5,5 months Just over £2k spent 7 Technicians inc 3 master techs with combined 110 years of experience. Every single f**ker telling me it's normal, it's how they sound. They are loud engines. Yeah, sure. This was only fuelling my ridiculous perseverance. This was my genuine and last attempt at this, today, before part-exing the car. The solution was inspired by my friends story. Story, which is beyond ridiculous and impossible and I'm not asking you to believe his story. Not that long ago he was sorting a timing chain on his S3 using only genuine parts. And before you say, oh, for sure he did something wrong. He didn't. What he doesn't know it's not worth knowing. The actual number of attempts it's ridiculous so all I will say is that it was more than 2. Eventually, a good friend of ours dropped of an aftermarket parts to him and yeah, you guessed it, or not, car was fixed. Between my last post and today, I also preformed another smoke test, intercooler bypass, Racingline Diverter valve with double the amount of seals and more VCDS diagnostics. How I approached this last attempt is this. For every problem you will have a list of items to test. All got ticked. Then a number of extra items was added to the list. All got ticked. Back to square one and this is where I got "inspired" by my friends timing chain issue. I replaced the PCV valve, again. Car fixed !!! Now, I need you to stop for a minute and just think what is happening here, because I don't believe for a second that both examples are isolated and when nothing makes sense, unfortunately, these days, you have to stop and question the quality of the genuine parts. Remember, back in February, Skoda dealer, replaced my original PCV with a genuine one. I ordered, same part number, same manufacturer (Kengst) genuine VAG PCV made in the same country to fix this. And no, no pinched seal or cracks or damage or whatever else may come to your mind. As I said, due to the "state" of the motor industry, when you tried everything and nothing makes sense, you've got to consider the fact that the genuine brand new part you just fitted was faulty before it has left the factory. >>>>>>> For ADMIN / MODERATOR consideration <<<<<<<<<< Please consider making this post sticky or make a new thread, I don't care. I genuinely don't wish anyone to go thru the bull**** I went thru especially when your car is under warranty and you don't want to void it, which is why I made sure to source identical PCV with 2025 date on eBay for 70quid, new. Same PN and everything. 5 months of stress, head scratching, nearly loosing my mind and a £2000 bill on top of that....all while having a Skoda Warranty and 110 years of experience between the master techs. Skoda dealer showed me another 2.0 TSI Kodiaq with identical issue, no fault codes, whistling and whooshing, which they deemed as normal, meaning the owner is simply unaware that he is driving a car with a fu*ked PCV. No faut codes, no abnormal data log = the dealer will stamp it as "normal behaviour". Thank you for all your suggestions and take care.

The previous log I made is attached. Not sure if it's any use. I did try to plot it using something that someone linked to above I think, but can't find that graph. LOG-01-IDE00021_&amp;4 - Copy.CSV If someone can make any use of it, or tell me anything from it, I'll be delighted.

Could be failed turbo seals and oil is ending up in intercooler plus being burnt . Check its not full of oil. Had similar on old volvo. Seals failed and was burning oil and intercooler was pretty full. Used to smoke like mad after idling for a while. Alasdair

It has changed with the 1.5 TSI. Can be Fixed or Variable / Flexible. 18,000-20,000 miles / 24 months. (But if running mainly on Electric and seldom firing up the engine best stay on fixed.) DQ400-e DSG is an Oil & Filter change at 40,000 miles or sooner.

If its any help I have been using comma oil for years from tractor/forklifts to fabia/octavia and many more cars. Never had a problem and it lasts. Generally a reasonable price and readily available. Alasdair

Since I had a really hard time gathering some popular options to be coded on my Octavia MK4 while avoiding one click apps, I figured it would be nice to post a summary of my findings so far. Some I haven't tested so please do let me know if they work. Would also appreciate if some can be added. It really sucks there is not a big list of features for this car to be coded, one click apps are too expensive. Driver Assistance Systems Lane Assist - Remember Last Setting Description: The car will remember whether you had Lane Assist turned on or off between ignition cycles. Control Unit: A5 - Driver Assistance Path: Long Coding Parameter: Configuration for lane departure warning KI15 New Value: last setting Enable Standard Cruise Control Option Description: Adds a menu option in the infotainment screen to switch between Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC) and standard "dumb" cruise control. (note, this does not work with first gen OBD11 device!) Control Unit: 13 - Adaptive Cruise Control Path: Long Coding Parameter: Cruise control mode New Value: Activated Lower ACC Minimum Speed Description: Lowers the minimum speed for ACC engagement from ~10 km/h to ~1 km/h. Control Unit: 13 - Adaptive Cruise Control Path: Coding Parameter: Operation_moden Value Change: From Mode 1 to Mode 2 Disable Overtaking on the Right Prevention Description: Allows the vehicle to overtake cars from the right-hand lane while ACC is active. (Use responsibly and check local laws). Control Unit: 13 - Adaptive Cruise Control Path: Long Coding Parameter: overtaking_right_prevention New Value: deactivated Lighting & Displays Fan Speed Display in AUTO Mode Description: Shows the current fan speed level on the climate control display even when it's in full AUTO mode. Control Unit: 08 - Air Conditioning Path: Adaptation Parameter: Blower display in auto operation New Value: activated High Beam Assist - Remember Last Setting Description: The car will remember your last setting for the automatic high beam assistant, so you don't have to re-enable it on every drive. Control Unit: 09 - Central Electrics Path: Adaptation > Fernlicht_assistent Parameter: Fernlichtassistent Reset New Value: not_active Pulsating Start Button Light Description: Makes the engine start/stop button pulsate with a "heartbeat" effect before the ignition is turned on. Control Unit: B7 - Access Startsystem Interface Path: Adaptation > DeveloperCoding: Search lights Parameter 1: ZATillumination_concept_mybeat_clamp58xt New Value: activated Parameter 2: ZATillumination_modus_mybeat_clamp58xt New Value: activated Enable Rear DRLs (Scandinavian DRLs) Description: Activates the rear taillights to stay on with the front Daytime Running Lights (DRLs). Control Unit: 09 - Central Electrics Path: Adaptation > Daytime running light Parameter: Tagfahrlicht-Dauerfahrlicht aktiviert zusaetzlich Standlicht New Value: aktiv Change Tachometer Style Description: Changes the visual style and max speed value of the tachometer in the virtual cockpit. Control Unit: 17 - Instruments Path: Adaptation Parameter: Tachometer end value New Value: Choose a different version number (e.g., from Version 2 to Version 6). Requires ignition cycle to apply. Deactivate Headlight Washer System Description: Prevents the headlight washers from activating when you use the windshield washers. Control Unit: 09 - Central Electrics Path: Adaptation > Scheinwerferreinigung Parameter 1: Anzahl Betaetigungen Frontwaschanlage pro SRA Aktivierung New Value: Change from the default (e.g., 10) to a very high number like 255. Parameter 2: SRA bei waschwassermangel New Value: not active Fade In/Out Interior Lighting Description: Adds a smooth fade effect when the interior lights turn on and off. Control Unit: 09 - Central Electrics (Security Access Code: 31347) Path: Adaptation > Suchbeleuchtung allgemein Parameter: KL58 einschalten mit rampe New Value: aktiv Audio & Sound Soundaktor (Structure Borne Sound) Volume Description: Adjusts the volume of the in-cabin fake engine noise generator (Soundaktor). Setting to 0 disables it completely. Control Unit: A9 - Structure Borne Sound Path: Adaptation Parameter: Volume of structure borne noise actuator New Value: A value between 0 (off) and 100 (max). Some models go to 255. Enable Alarm Beep on Lock/Unlock Description: Activates a short horn beep when locking/unlocking the car and adds a toggle menu in the infotainment system. (Only works if vehicle has OEM alarm system!) Control Unit: 09 - Central Electrics Path: Adaptation > Response signals Activate the following: Akustische rueckmeldung entriegeln: active Akustische rueckmeldung verriegeln: active Akustische rueckmeldung global: active Akustische rueckmeldung signalhorn: active Menuesteuerung akustische rueckmeldung: active (This adds the menu toggle) Dauer der akustischen rueckmeldung vom einfachhorn: normal (or kurz if you have the factory alarm siren) Disable Trunk/Deck Lid Closing Sound Description: Mutes the beep/tone that sounds when closing the power trunk/deck lid. Control Unit: 6D - Deck Lid Control Path: Adaptation > Ausstattungen aktivieren Parameter: tone sensor New Value: not active

@captseahawk Write to me, I can send you the software and advise you.

Just a comment from personal experience:- I contacted my local Fuchs oil sales rep as I had considered buying a "suitable/correct" oil for my cars, but from a aftermarket brand that were known to use Fuchs as their source, the question I (naively) asked was "is ***'s product ABC the as your Fuchs XYZ ?" and the answer that I got was that the additive package that they use in customer's oils is closely matched to the area of the market that they are selling into - ie price dependant. So I think that that answered my question/suspicions concerning aftermarket brands when comparing them to main stream oil brands.

I do have another angle that I'd like to give on this (and it comes from personal experience). If a car thief is determined enough to want your car, then the best way to secure your car is to secure your house. Put all the kill switches, immobilser devices, faraday boxes/pouches you like, if they are determined enough to want the car they'll try and get in for the key, and beat any immobilser code out of you. Before the vRS I had a Cupra Atec VZ1. After about a month with it two masked guys tried to break into the house for the keys. We have anti-snap locks fitted to our house and they gave up as soon as they realised they couldn't snap the cylinders off. About 20 minutes later a Golf R Estate was stolen from only a few hundred metres away from a house without anti-snap locks. They were in and out within seconds. If you have a vehicle with KESSY like we do, the best security for your car is security for your house.

Don’t think I’ve ever seen electric seat option on the Kamiq.

Many thanks for your reply. I have ordered a pair of the compatible Bosch ones from Amazon. I’ll keep them in reserve and see how the OEM ones perform to start with. I don’t think my new model actually has a rear wiper at all, from what I can see of the spec, which is a shame, as it helps visibility in very wet motorway driving. On the plus side, it does tend to give the dog a bit of a jump scare if travelling in the boot on the old one, as it makes a racket when it first wipes the rear screen🫣.

Thanks for your help both, all sorted.

Started getting a loud noise at high revs recently, sounds like a resonating heat shield . Had a poke around under the bonnet and found that the engine cover wasn't fully clipped down. Sorting this out seems to have cured it 😀 Also tightened a loose bolt on my motorcycle which I hope fixes a noise on that too, a good day!

Unfortunately I don't deal with MIB3 units...

Thanks for the replies. The car had done about 63,500 at the last MOT in October 2025. I've checked through all the paperwork I got and can't see anything about spark plugs being changed. The Turbo Actuator was replaced in 2024 (before I bought it). Unfortunately my local garage doesn't have any availability until the end of next week, so I'm going to have to phone around and see if I can find somewhere else at shorter notice unless there's a way to access the OBD via my phone.

Hello, my name is Fabio, I live in Belgium, and I just bought a 2023 Skoda Octavia 2.0 TDI 110kW Sportline in graphite grey in July 2026. I'm happy to be able to learn more on this forum. Thank you.

If u have a genuine heated windscreen, it will have a purple haze/tinge to it, in the sunlight. Otherwise it will b a normal greenish haze/tinge.

Yeah get rid of them trees! 🤭

auto glass claim warranty for the lifetime of your ownership of the vehicle. So I would be going back to them. But I suspect you will end up in an endless loop of auto glass blame Skoda. Skoda blame auto glass. Repeat.

As some of you have probably realized I'm crazy about converting factory radio / navigation into Android tablet. To be more detailed: in adding Android tablet functionality into factory radio / navigation system. First time I made in in my Superb II MY12 with Columbus. Second time I added this feature to Bolero in my Fabia III. And now I have adopted Amundsen MIB STD2 infotainment system (from new Yeti) to be used in the same Superb (I was a bit tired with Columbus) and equipped wit with Android 4.4.4 module. Disadvantage 1 - you have to change gateway (as this system has address 5F which cannot be coded in old gateway) Disadvantage 2 - you have to find somebody who will take care of Component Protection which is not so common yet Disadvantage 3 - you have to buy SD card with maps (goodbye old good days of updating maps at no cost in Columbus) Disadvantage 4 - no climatronic visualisation Disadvantage 5 - no CD/DVD reader Advantage 1 - something new in the old car Advantage 2 - it has built-in bluetooth Advantage 3 - reverse camera can be connected without any adapters Advantage 4 - you can probably activate and use MirrorLink/AndroidAuto (probably as I have not checked it yet) And it's way easier to extend it with Android table funcionality comparing to old Columbus. I will post some pictures and videos next week.

Hi, I've replaced the multimedia unit in my skoda, with one, from another vehicle, will it work, and how do I do this. ie, remove, the, 'component protection active' ??

At least on my MY18 Octavia, it was pretty much as I mentioned above... Basically: - Ran an extra wire between the 4 footwells for LIN-bus and connected it the existing ambient lighting LIN-bus (BCM connector C, pin 29). - Moved the footwell lighting power feed from the BCM to a permanent live used for the existing ambient lighting. - Replaced the two pin footwell connectors for four pin versions: - 2x 8K0 973 754 - 2x 8K0 973 754 A Pinout for the lamps is: - pin 1: positive/power - pin 2: LIN-bus - pin 3: LIN-bus (identical to pin 2) - pin 4: ground/earth New footwell lamp part numbers are: - 8W0 947 415 A - front left - 8W0 947 415 B - front right - 8W0 947 415 C - rear left - 8W0 947 415 D - rear right At this point, it's was just coding to get everything working, some of this post might help: https://uk-polos.net/viewtopic.php?p=581341&sid=09d240bf5c72251932bcb0470c453f34#p581341 The important thing is the car has a BCM which supports ambient lighting. From factory my car had 5Q0 937 084 CQ which made this much easier 👍

The OP said "repaired" & not replaced, frankly anyone that would call using a chocolate block on a safety critical cable in the tight confines of a flexing door loop a "repair" is an eternal optimist. You can find the part number by using 7zap or any of the other sites.

How hard are these to change.,.. I can see the nuts... But some people say I have to drop the sub frame