Leaderboard

Cropped pic of the best one I took. Thankfully the magnetic ND filter kit from K&F I ordered last week (Aug 3) arrived just in time. I started with all 3 filters, but ended up with 10 and 6 stop (plus Hoya CPL). Exif data, if you're interested

At least it was sorted. You can have lots of seemingly unrelated issues if there are problems with a steering angle sensor, wheel speed sensor, etc. It’s not an uncommon thing to lose braking assist, park pilot and other things, all because of something as simple as a dodgy ABS ring.

I decided to have my MY2019 Karoq 1.0 SE Tech DSG serviced and MOT'd at a local garage, who had impressed me last year when they did the MOT. Previously, servicing had always been by the Walthamstow Skoda Dealers, who to be fair had on the whole been pretty good, but my All-in-Ones, Warranties etc. finally expired last year. My car has the non digital speedo & rev counter instruments, but the display in between - forget the name - is digital and seemingly has various setting options. The car came back from service with a different setting, now displaying a big friendly speedo character. I'd rather have what I had before (can't recall all the exact features) but I can't see in my handbook, how to choose the options. Can anyone help? If I'd gone to the Skoda Dealers, they would have changed the brake fluid, as the car is 7 years old (44,000miles) and that's what the service schedule says, but my new garage tested the fluid and said it was fine and not needing topping up - so that saved some money. I noted last year that the Skoda Dealer was previously (2 years ago) suggesting that I'd soon need new brake pads (identified by their MOT place), but my new garage said the pads were fine and the car passed the MOT last year and this, no problem. The new garage said they'd look at the air filter too, even though not due for replacement and must have decided to change it. Car economy seemed to improve a little after the service, so not unhappy. I found a 2nd good garage locally, who had replaced the shock absorbers with Konis - Special Active that I supplied them with, a few months ago. i thought the workmanship charge reasonable and they noted that the brake pads had plenty of wear left and were OK (that's why I trust them too), but did comment they rattle around a little in the calipers, which i notice only when the windows are open. They said there are better makes that fit better and don't rattle - I forgot to write down the names.

PM'ed to you. Thanks. AG Falco

Thanks for that I had, as yet, never come across a minimum charge. Did have one pub that added a £1 connection fee I assume the charging cost went to the CPO so the pub was charging for parking.

Best I could manage with a cheap Amazon cardboard and plastic solar filter And the sunset after the moon made way

The 2014 Rapid turned over to 150,000Kms yesterday.

I believe traffication is subscription service, free for first year. If I recall correctly I think it cost £4.50 per year and you pay for it through the ŠKODA app. Look under PROFILE -> PAID SERVICES

Cheers, I'll give the Phirm a call then and that's 5 minutes from me pretty much. Not sure about the fluid you listed after I that 'm afraid.

The seller told me it had GEM, toolbox and CP patch, the radio works perfectly but it doesnt detect the ignition and the rear camera

New struts purchased and installed. £80 for a pair on ebay shipped next day from the UK. Popped old ones off, popper new ones on. Job done. Will give away the old struts if anyone wants them and can do a better repair job than me.

Evening Briskoda brethren! Have been reading through old threads and one thing I've noticed is that replacing the front grill appears to be a bumper off job on the pre FL Octavia. Has anyone been able to figure out a way to replace the grill itself and/or have a guide to do it? Unfortunately my grill has a large crack along the middle. I can only imagine how much a dealer would quote for a new bumper. Thanks for your help in advance. !

Fitting a Honeycomb grill with pics (LED front Indicator too) - Skoda Octavia Guides - BRISKODA

The air filter schedule as per Skoda is ridiculous. 60,000 miles / 6 years. It is simply clever to inspect at every service and replace it required as a dirty / clogged air filter can cost you in reducing the mpg. Were the spark plugs replaced already. They are at 40,000 miles or 4 years?

A warm greeting to all the members of this great forum. My nickname is Sandor626; I own a 2020 Octavia (3rd generation) Combi G-Tec (130 hp) and a 2020 Fabia (3rd generation) 1.0 (60 hp). My interests lie in electronics, a hobby I’ve pursued since 1975. I am a radio amateur, though I am interested in every field of electronics. Sandor 626 ( Sandro )

It is ridiculous the situation with stores like LIDL or ALDI having EV chargers where they are only for use during store open hours and people getting a penalty charge for parking at a charger while charging out of hours. No idea how common or which other companies might be doing the same. Just seen a few news articles on this happening. The charger i am on is supposedly a 22 kW, so 2 vehicles could be charging and getting 11 kW. I have never got 11 kW with a car with 11 kW on board charger. Just now with a 7kw on board charger i am getting near that. In the past on this one i have had someone else plug into the other port and it drop to us both getting only 3 6 kW or so.

Well, did you follow Octopus's instructions? I had sunlight right through the eclipse; admittedly, it was weaker for a few minutes, but there was still plenty of sunshine, and my solar panels and garden were bathed in it. I had to laugh at the guff some of the TV presenters were saying, like the temperature had suddenly dropped. Not here, it still felt as hot as ever.

Been on 45 minutes and charged only 4kWh. So £2.00. The 22kW AC tethered charger cable which would be giving me 11 KW is no longer on the Big DC charger. That was what wrongly had you paying 70 pence a kWh. The £5 minimum charge on the supposed 11 kW AC I am on means many will be like me and occupy the charger for longer than they might normally. It is pure stupidity that the minimum charge cost is not just £2.00. PS. The big / rapid 50 kW DC charger is out of service.

Why a shame for PHEVs, it looks like the minimum £5 applies to your BEV as well. That £5 would buy a lot miles when home charging.

Hi, i'm from spain and i have a skoda rapid spaceback 2018, it's a pleasure to meet y'all

When a professional dealer sells a vehicle presented as pristine, but it actually conceals massive structural repairs and undisclosed heavy fillers, the situation goes far beyond a simple oversight. Even though the vehicle has a history with previous owners and transfers, consumer protection laws hold professional sellers to a high standard of transparency, penalizing misleading omissions. The buyer is not challenging a minor cosmetic scratch, but a hidden defect severe enough to undermine the very basis of the purchase. Consequently, legal action relies not on the assumption that a quick visual check should have caught it, but on the principle that trading a compromised asset without proper disclosure breaches the contract, justifying full restitution and compensation.

Relevant HVAC measurements are refrigerant pressure, compressor load (actual and requested), evaporator temperature and vent temperatures. You can deduce many airco problems from these. Refrigerant pressure measured prior to engine startup should be 5+ bars on a hot day, see my last post in this thread from sometime ago: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/503690-airco-refrigerant-pressure-climatronic-typical-values/ When running engine and compressor, after a while high side pressure should be above 10bar at 20degC ambient, and above 16bar at 30degC ambient. There are more exact tables and charts of temp vs pressure, do a search. Remember the sensor shows absolute pressure (0 is absolute vacuum), while most Internet charts show pressure above ambient, so 1 bar less. With temp set to low and airco fan running on full, evaporator temperature should be low several deg C, perhaps up to 10degC on a really hot day and stationary car with idling engine. Compressor load helps see that cooling is actually requested and that the compressor responds, and also useful if you overfill the system. One thing worth also checking in case of inconsistent behaviour is if the front airco fan (behind engine and airco radiators) switches on and works OK. if the fan or relay fails, cooling efficiency depends much more on whether the car is moving rather than just ambient temperature. There's a whole host of other potential issues, eg freezing water in the system, stuck expansion valve etc., but on a system that has worked well in the past, the above would be my starting point for diagnostics. HTH

@ThomBrink můžu vám ten problém vyřešit.

Interesting. For paint thickness I’m not sure you’ll find anything that will hold them bang to rights. Although some of those figures sound horrendous - not sure my NexPTG would read paint that thick. As for recourse on damage, having always had a weird shape in my rear bumper since buying it at 6m old from a Carr’s Exeter in Sept ‘21 as the GM’s company car, and now having been hit up the rear last week, you can see evidence that the rear bumper has been damaged and filled before respray. They never mentioned a thing - I wouldn’t have cared. I’d never get anything from them but it was a **** move by them.

Must get myself here next year 😁

This is really brilliant help. Thank you so much 😄

The reported shutoff due to low pressure event would be a clue pointing you toward lack of refrigerant, I expect.

You will not find any data for 'AC clutch' as the Mk3 A/C system doesn't have one - the compressor is permanently driven via a sacrificial shear plate.

There’s a YouTube video that provides one possible explanation. Basically there is too much grease in the stalk mechanism that can conduct a current causing the wipers to operate even when switched off. I suppose it’s possible that using the indicators could displace some grease and also complete a circuit to allow the wipers to operate. The occasional ranfkm operation when left in Auto mode I think could be caused the camera that senses rain being fooled by dust particles and random water droplets from a passing cars screen washers.

The Car ExpertDoes a seller have to declare damage on a car? | The Car...What are the rules about any damage being declared on a car you're buying? Well, it's complicated, which car dealers use to their advantage.

Cheers Gaz. I was fearing the worst, too. I was bit shocked to find you couldn't just check the dipstick and top fluid up! I'm way behind the tech times. But I'm pleased to say it may be alright after all, at least enough to get me the 300 or so miles to the ferry and home. I left it overnight to cool down totally, and then started it and drove gently on as level roads as I could find in A Coruna. The transmission was a bit clunky at the very beginning, then started behaving normally, including getting into fifth smoothly. I think it was a combination of some ultra-steep underground car park slopes in hot weather, the after effects of a fair bit of mountain driving, and (classic me....) the fact that for the first time in 50k miles with me the transmission had somehow been knocked into sporty mode. So fingers crossed we should be able to get home and get any fault code/s analysed. After the water leak last month (which turned out to be a leak in the pump, not just the thermostat housing), I was convinced I'd held onto this car too long - but I'm hoping it will go for another good few thousand miles yet.

I have no idea what makes this Kamiq a 2027 model, the only thing I can find is the addition of front parking sensors. Maybe cornering lights? It's a specced up SE L slightly rather than choose the Monte Carlo ( I don't like sports seats or panoramic roof etc). So spare wheel, Winter Pack, one extra years warranty and the 18" Vega Aero wheels + two years free servicing. I had a mid range dashcam fitted. My wife's 2015 Fabia went to my Granddaughter - still in excellent condition with low mileage. My previous fears were the filament wires in the heated windscreen - which ARE visible but very faint as others correctly told me - I had assumed when ordering that windscreens had moved on and was expecting the clear copper conductive type screen as in my 2022 Karoq. No big deal. I hadn't spotted the wheels were 45 aspect ratio, expecting 50 like the Karoq. Again not a problem - not too much of a bumpy ride. Oh and the bingy-bongs that we all have to endure now are quiet and unobtrusive unlike some cars I have been in recently. I can turn off the lane assist when im driving, my wife enjoys wrestling so she's happy and it's her car. Allegedly . All in all a great car and we are happy with the choice. But I would not have chosen white 😁

Presuming you have the DQ200 seven speed dry clutch DSG, this doesn’t sound good I’m sorry to say. Impossible to diagnose on a car forum, but it sounds to me like a mechatronic issue, or the accumulator failure (cracked casting) that’s quite common on the DQ200’s from this era. Better to take to a DSG knowledgeable workshop IMO, but a VAG dealer if needs must. No signs of leaking transmission fluid? Just to cover the simple stuff. Sorry to hear of your predicament - good luck with getting it fixed. Gaz

faulty stalk if they are on the same one, common problem with modern cars

Consider using Steel-Wire Armoured Cable for the run.

Thanks for that information, most helpful. I'm going to have to wait a while if I want to try and tap into the mains as the ground is like concrete and impossible to dig with shovels or spades, so once we have a decent amount of rain that softens the ground I might be able to get our gardening team to dig a trench across the lawn about 12" deep so I can install a cable conduit (usually a heavy duty water pipe) and bury it in the trench up to a base of a redundant lamp post base, reuse that for a charger on a post.

Best mpg I’ve recorded with my 2023 2.0 TSI Sportline, 52.2 mpg on a 56 mile trip M25 & M1, running at 55-60 mph mostly. Outbound trip this morning was 44.1 mph at similar speeds. I’ve just started using Shell VPower unleaded could this be a factor or just coincidence.

Left tail gate strut failed - lots of beeping not much moving. Popped it off to find the wires have broken. Quick + dirty repair to make it work again whilst I order replacements.

Give teh windscreen in front of the camera a clean first.

Welcome to the forum. I understand that it's not a good idea to leave anything permanently plugged into the OBD port. OBD port power is sourced from the vehicle battery - so battery will be affected. Even very small unexpected current draws are capable of upsetting the smart alternator charging system.

Hi everyone, I am currently dealing with a serious dispute regarding my Skoda Superb Combi iV MY 2021, and I'm looking for some official or crowd-sourced data regarding factory paint thickness and tolerances. After performing a detailed micrometric paint audit on my car, I found massive readings on several exterior panels that heavily exceed normal factory specs (e.g., up to 2,150 µm on the rear-left side panel, 590–720 µm on the hood, and 320–360 µm on the roof), while the internal areas (doors and trunk jambs) stay at a normal 170–190 µm. Before I push further with my legal claim against the dealership for undisclosed respraying/bodywork, I would like to double-check: What are the typical factory paint thickness ranges (in microns / µm) for a modern Skoda Superb coming out of the factory? Does anyone have access to any official VAG / Skoda technical documentation (SB - Service Bulletin, workshop manuals, etc.) that states the allowable factory tolerances for paint layers? Any official data sheets, personal experiences with paint gauges on a brand-new Superb, or guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help!