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Today’s task was to add LED lights to the back doors in place of the reflectors. Using information from this post. Tapped into red and white/ brown and yellow wires using posi taps and tidied up with cloth tape. They project “Superb” onto the floor the same as the front ones. Note - it’s always worth having some spare door trim clips on hand as they seem to be a sacrificial part! https://vehicleclips.co.uk/products/door-card-trim-moulding-clip-with-rubber-seal-skoda-5j0867276

Our local taxis drive a lot of octavias. Reckon every second one is one. Last one I was in was a 1.0tsi and taxi driver said it was excellent. I too was really surprised when he said it was only a 1.0 litre. It felt like my 1.6tdi Alasdair

I think you missed the point of my comment, I was saying that you don't get sidetracked talking to other drivers when doing a splash and dash or even a full refuel with liquid fossil fuel because you have to be there, squeezing the trigger for the fuel to flow to your tank, unlike an EV. Of course, rain, snow, etc is going to have just as much impact on the rolling resistance of an ICE car as it does on an EV; that's pure physics.

Hello, from Switzerland. 2016 Skoda Superb which we have had for about 2 yours now. Now, on to the forums. D

Oh please, oh please let it be a ….. 🤞

@joek666 If you scroll up just a few messages, the version you're refering to is already out, posted and tested since June.

Just came home 160 miles in torrential rain and was getting 2.8 miles a kWh. I stopped at 80 miles to charge a little as showing only 50 mile range. Charged more than I ment because I only wanted £3 of charge and ended with £12 as busy talking chargers and how bad they are. Left charger and no rain and average speed cameras and 3.2 miles a kWh. 75 miles range left, so money wasted from gabbing on.

Same here re locking nuts. There awful. Tyre service snapped the only adapter which looked like some kind of alloy not steel and it was a nightmare to get stud out. Local garage welded a nut on the end to remove it as dealer wasn't very helpful re replacement and I needed tyre changed as it had lost shape. I remove them if their fitted. Nice tread pattern on tyre. I do prefer the herring bone pattern. Works better in my opinion in wet. Alasdair

My old 1.9tdi and newer 1.6tdi are 105hp which is less than the 1.0tsi. Torque on my diesels is 250NM which is higher than the 200NM of the 1.0tsi but reckon as long as your not towing you wouldn't notice. Alasdair

Hi, new here. Skoda Yeti 2014 2.0 diesel (170bhp) 4wd. In the last few days I have noticed small amounts of water on top of the rubber floor mats, front and rear O/S. It was noticed first in the rear footwell but yesterday it was very evident in the drivers footwell. Warm fine day, so used the air con and noticed the water amount had increased. When we got home I removed the rubber mats and the carpets were extremely wet. We had to place old towels on the floor, stand on them (water rising visibly under pressure), wring out towels (soaking wet) and repeat many times until too tired to continue - will resume today. Thoughts were, blocked drainage under windscreen (will check) but more likely air con drainage issue, particularly as using the air con made the problem noticeably worse. I drove the car into the garage and turned the air con on for 3 or 4 minutes - no sign of any water dripping onto the floor. Recent events that may be relevant:- had an air con check at Kwik Fit several weeks ago and we noticed the mechanic jump, exclaim, accompanied by loud hiss of escaping gas. they said the pressure was OK and we left but immediately noticed the air con was noisy. Returned and they reluctantly agreed all wasn't right and re-gassed free of charge. Could the drain tube have been damaged? Also, a couple of weeks ago the Garage removed the engine tray to fix a leaking oil filter, could they have kinked/trapped the air con drain tube? Sorry it's a long post, will appreciate any advice.

Not for many years as have not had an ICE vehicle. When my son went from ICE to EV about a year ago we tended to go to MFG stations and they seem to get the future as they oft seem to have EV chargers and petrol pumps. Do go in to the Tesco fuel station but only to get a meal deal but they always ask if I have got fuel and I can so no each time. Our Tesco is quite a poor one as no EV charging there and Sainsburys seems to be getting the jump on Tescos and I expect Tesco to lose a lot of customers due to their lack of foresight.

Turn your cornering lights back on and see if that brings them back. My Sharan has AFS lights and when one of the static cornering lights bulbs was out it disabled the AFS headlight function. Also, there is definitely and off switch for AFS as I have the option on the display to disable bend lighting, so there must be an equivalent VCDS option somewhere.

Folks - just pulled the trigger on the above in Velvet Red (other than that standard spec) - currently driving a Karoq 1.5 DSG Sportline Edition. Due in approx December and will be my first EV - hoping I have made correct choice. Current and new Elroq purchased via PCP scheme and Ohme Home Pro included as part of PCP offer. Would be grateful for any owners views/comments!

Got mine from The Wheel Shop on Ebay. Wheel plus full kit (jack, etc) for approx £100.

If the rate of recharging keeps going up as quick as it has been recently ie 1 MW charging and faster, perhaps we will get a similar trigger mechanism, maybe with a locking trigger like US and Canada, bar Quebec province as state government don't trust their citizens !

Just as an update as I said I would. Drove the car this morning in the dark - right side of the motorway was kept in the dark, trees on the left were lit up. So mine all looks fine to me. 2021 L&K with Full LED Matrix etc

Hi, Not much to say, but I do enjoy my Fabia, so nice to meet you all!

I had 1.0 litre Octavia a few years ago. Did the occasional run to the airport with 5 up and stuffed with suitcases. No problems at all.

Finding the more modern the more electronic problems and dealer only fixes. I would stick with the one you have although 220k is fairly high. I suppose it depends what you would get for it if selling? Alasdair

Yup. All working spot on.

I have no fear of anyone wanting my 16's lol.

Lots of detail here about this problem : - All the parts looks similar. HTH. Thanks. AG Falco

When relative engine power is considered, it was pretty common in the past for a private taxi to have a 1.8 or a 2 litre NA engine - a modern 1.0TSI matches that at lower RPM !

I have seen the flap actuator and it is fairly low down, behind the lower glovebox, close to the LH side of the car. It seems that mine still works, but it makes a light tapping noise when I first start the car, for about 20 secs and a much louder tapping when recirculation is selected, again for 20 secs. I've got used to it. I would like to fix it and came to the conclusion that the easiest approach would be to use a Dremel to cut out a section at the rear of the lower glovebox, but I never seem to get round to attempting it, partly due to having 3 other old cars, all requiring attention! The Skoda is used intermittently. If I do the job, I'll then replace the cut out section by attaching a flange to the edge of it, so that it can be screwed or maybe clipped back in. With the lid closed, it won't show. I'll post again if I get it done. It's a silly design!

Even with the advances in engines these days I think you'll find that if you ever travel fully loaded with passengers and luggage the car will struggle. A car may appear nippy when it's just yourself driving (the default situation for many cars) but if you have the opportunity, try a test drive "fully loaded" to see how suitable a workhorse it may be.

5Q0 and 2Q0 radars have different mounting positions and, consequently, different brackets. With the 2Q0, you would normally have to buy and install different brackets. The 3D-printed part saves you from having to do that, allowing you to use the OEM 5Q0 bracket instead. It’s a great solution from @Cairus.

My DRL kit arrived from AliExpress so using a spare headlight for cheap I first removed the lens by taking the clips off and then warming the sealant using a hairdryer, Then removed the 100 screws and the plastic strip, which is clipped in place, I also removed the LED module, you can see of the old strip the melting that had caused the yellowing, Using the reverse of taking it apart put it back together and tested it, Good result, just need to clean the inside of the light and refit the lens with some new butyl seal which will involve baking the light in the oven once the seal is in place then squeezing the lens back on and refitting the clips. A small but satisfying win.

Me too, but don’t tell anyone 🤫

Misleading people getting an EV into believing that a 50 kW battery car is going to go 250 miles or more is pure misselling. When 200 miles sometimes might be possible in the right conditions. Sadly people believe brochures and sales staff.

Thanks! All coded and tested using a cardboard box front and back as per @Bap33 suggestion!

touchscreen for everything on the MK4 You can't beat buttons and twiddly knobs

I'm the opposite of most people on here as I like the coasting. Maybe because I experienced it in the late 1960s/early 1970s with two-strokes that had a lockable flywheel to prevent fuel starvation when you lift off the accelerator, which it turn starves the engine of lubrication. I previously lived in Brecon and I could easily coast for a couple of miles downhill when crossing the Brecon Beacons, but now I'm in Lincoln, which is the opposite of Brecon and is very flat!

Sunset a few nights ago..........

I’ve just had revo stage 1 on my 23 VRs dsg petrol Wish I had it done ages ago Apart from the power, it’s a a much better car to drive feels a lot smoother As the tuner said it takes away all the fluffiness’s

The pan roof is an optional service item on the Menu at most dealers, £149 every two years: clear drains, lubricate moving parts, moisturise the nenoprene seals. You can buy the Krytox moisturiser off eBay it’s quite pricey but you use very little, also off eBay nylon cable to rid through the drains, fronts are easy, back ones inaccessible without risking damaging the nenoprene seals. I do mine every 6 months. Thd backs I do by parking the Karoq facing up hill on my drive, with the roof open I pour some water with a bit of screen em wash in it, as a marker, then go and look under the each corner of the rear bumper for liquid that smells like screen wash. So far no problems.

Alright, final update! A few weeks in with the Revo Stage 1 tune and what an improvement it’s been. For my application, Revo is no longer making a high/low torque map. It’s just one file with switchable maps for 95/97/99 octane. The mid range torque is impressive and coupled with the TVS DSG tune, driveability has improved drastically compared to what the car was like stock. They complement other perfectly. Fuel consumption has stayed about the same (although there’s a bit more temptation to get a little heavier footed), and temps are still spot on both in the city and on long drives. As expected, my issue has now become wheel spin all the way through first and second gear, sometimes to the start of third, so better and wider tires are in sight. Overtaking and getting up to speed have never been easier. Overall, if you’re been looking for just a little bit more of everything from your EA888.4/DQ381 combo without making any sacrifices, I can highly recommend it. As always, make sure to stay on top of your maintenance and run the correct fuel map.

2016 Fabia Monte Carlo here. I had this issue on both windows after picking it up new a month or so ago. Tried lubing up the weatherstrips as recommended here with not much luck. After looking a little more into them I saw that one of the weatherstrips had folded over about half way along and was rubbing, causing some noise. Pulling it back into place fixed that side thank god. The other window had the noise coming from from somewhere else, deeper in the door, so I had the door card off to see what was what. In the end, it sounded like the noise was coming from the front rail of the window regulator. The fix I found was to get in through one of the bung holes inline with the regulator rail and spread (admittedly a little too much) red grease on the rail and slider, running it up and down 10-15 times. It's not come back yet, so knock on wood I think that's fixed it.

Literally get the car up whether ramp or jack get underneath and grab propshaft near the coupling and try to move it side to side or up and down. It can also be checked visually for signs of perishing. My car has 52k miles so around 80k km?

Hi There, It’s easy to just pop the little panel out - go back through “what have you done today” thread and you’ll see a photo from when I replaced mine due to it have a cigarette cherry melt in it! Hope that helps. Nick

Hi, I need information about replace and installation Usb socket, which used for Android Auto. See bellow photo for additional info. downloadfile.PDFdownloadfile(1).PDF