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Seems to be planning that hold things up alot. Perhaps a different approach needed ie fast track for some project as national priority circumventing local permissions or different parameters which are automatically accepted.

It was a split evap pipe and belt tensioner all good now 👍🏻

The bought-from-new cars owned by me and my wife have included 6 VWs and 2 Skodas. All of these (and the other makes of vehicle we've owned) were all serviced by their manufacturer's main dealerships and - to the best of my knowledge - none of their brakes were ever stripped down, pins greased etc. Brake pad thickness and brake disc condition were checked and reported on, but this was only using a visual inspection and without the road-wheels being removed from the car. That doesn't mean that our cars' brakes were never stripped down, as I used to do this myself on my cars and on my wife's last VW (a Golf diesel estate), but this was primarily when I was replacing the pads to try to improve the brakes' performance rather than me feeling a pressing need to do this. Do you know which car manufacturers have included (or now include) a brake strip-down as part of their standard servicing? I expect a VW/Skoda main dealership would include brake strip-down/pin greasing as a supplementary task during a service if an owner insisted (despite the pads' thickness being adequate) but current labour charges would bump up the cost significantly.

Annoying! Well done on not giving up

I ended up having to write several strongly worded legal letters, but I did get the money back from the garage

Trump is the best EV salesman..... New Trump Promisero car.... https://youtube.com/shorts/-cH9OQ560Hg?si=V6cSZt_wHT8C68G2

Hi all, Just got my Kodiaq a few weeks back after my Superb I’d had for 13 years was written off by a bus. 😡 Look forward to find out out more from the site, looks interesting 👍🏻

I used to own the Superb Hatchback KYXX XXB which had been faultless for my 4 years of ownership. Unfortunately on 10th April I was involved in a small accident which resulted in the offside front bumper, headlight and corner bonnet being damaged. The rest of the car was in excellent condition with 37.000 miles on the clock. I was amazed when the insurance company deemed it uneconomical to repair and offered me a payment which I accepted. I now see that the car is back on the road. So if you are the new owner of the car and would like all its full service and maintenance records from new message me and I will forward on. I will keep the offer open for another 4 weeks before I dispose of them if I have had no contact

Screen seems to be good as far as I can tell. Old unit as MIB 2 worked perfectly. Some kind of issue during the upgrade corrupted the eeprom. Spent the last week learning about uart and PAB connected remotely this evening to try to fix it. But it can’t be written to or read through the terminal. Needs a physical connection to the eeprom directly to reflash it unfortunately. I have a friend who is an electronics engineer and he offered to have a look but we would both be learning what’s needed and winging it whereas I can send it to an expert and get a plug and play unit back. This is the last thing I do to the car. Essential maintenance only from here on in!

Thanks @travs those are the exact ones I am looking at and look to give the appearance I am after Thanks

Spent the evening connected to @pab567 in an attempt to revive my failed MIB 2 to 2.5 upgrade. Unfortunately it’s not in a state to be recovered remotely so the MIB unit is off on holiday to Poland for some TLC.

Premium Ridex parts (as opposed to base range) are certainly good in so far as I have used them. I have 2 steel brake discs (zinc coated) and an airco condenser/dryer on my Mk3 Octavia vRS for some years now. Have not used any parts in their base range, so cannot comment on those. On the particular topic of zinc coated brake discs, Ridex ones were 40% price of the ECP ones at the time ....

I wish there was, I still got mine to fit

Update: Since I've been using E5 fuel no issues whatsoever. Thanks for advice everyone.

Been a minute, sorry. I got some mild confidence and tried to weld that patch in, but the sill is just tissue paper, I can't get any weld on it without it blowing itself to death. I'm going to cut my losses and buy two complete outer sills and go mental with the angle grinder. I do wonder if I need to brace anything first though. That job being trashed I figured I'd get it off axle stands for a bit. So my neighbour and I started bleeding the brakes, that's when we found out both rear wheel cylinders were seized, yay. Better than that, the bleeder on the back left just went PING and sheered off. Yay. The BESTESTS thing was that when we got the first drum off we found the hub nut was LOOSE (face palm emoji) but anyway the mess inside was like: Only ONE broken spring, heh. We got it all wrestled off but had to drill out the bolts for the brake cylinder. That's just crap on the axle thingy, it's not actually knackered. The process of trying to free the pistons from the second cylinder broke it but also look at the STATE of these things: Soooo crunchy We popped to the local motor factors and ordered a cylinder to see if it would match up, and got new shoes and springs, we left the old ones sprung up as references: In an effort to cheer up, I wired in the second VIBE BLACKAIR T12 sub and fired up the stereo. When it was just one it was ok but a bit borderline, two however has the ability to get slightly uncomfortable which means there's enough bass it gives me more enthusiasm to keep chucking money into this PIT in the hope I can drive it one year.

105 or 90 what? Is that 105 or 90 bar? Both are more than enough to keep the car running. My car had a failing HP fuel pump once (around 2015?). Without that HP fuel pump I could still drive the car to the garage, with only the fuel pressure of the pump in the tank, around 6 bar.... If you still have 90 bar, the fuel pressure is not your problem.

As it is just an location location location thing and usage. Maybe more necessary seaside or where winter salting is more common. And if you own cars as keepers and not rent / lease them and hand back or trade in every 3 years. Then lack of use or low miles might mean more surface rust on discs when they are moved. A manual hand / parking brake can mean user to get some rust off discs than cars with e-brakes. PS, untill 2019 Skoda UK servicing still showed 'remove wheels' remove Drums'. Some inspection of drum brake cars were done without wheels off. Right they used inspection hols on rear drum plate. Not. So mBy cars never had the alloys off in 3 or more years that it was an effort to get them off. Many a sad tale at puncture times.

Picked up the new car yesterday, first impressions are very good. So much more fun to drive than the Superb. It was indeed built quite recently. It came off the production line in Japan on 07/06/2026, pretty impressed on how quickly it got here!

Been using https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk There prices and delivery are pretty good apart from random things that incur a delivery surcharge as I am in Inverness. If its skoda genuine parts then probably dealer or there is https://www.skoda-parts.com/ as well as https://www.lllparts.co.uk/ who also have original manufacturer parts diagrams and you can narrow it down with VIN. Alasdair

@lol-lol Yes, I know about Electric Forecourt, just a few miles from me, and it can cope with that load, as there is a tap into the main 275kV or maybe even 400kV grid powerline just metres away from it. The place is run by Gridserve and has on-site 2 massive transformers to provide the power. But a couple of swallows does not make a summer. If we are to go electric, we need far more of these centres, but however, they are not geared up to accept HGVs. The same national grid powerline that serves Electric Forecourt, also runs close by the Fastned site in Colchester.

Here's the point that I was making: the UK is not doing any of those things, and the last time I checked, we were all still firmly rooted here, the UK. We could talk about the situation in Kuwait, but their fossil fuel is cheap. Being a major producer, I understand that and they more than likely will not go down the EV route. It's of zero interest to the UK members of this forum to continually sprout what they are or are not doing. The French, for example, are particularly rebellious, and if the authorities introduce, for example, new driving rules that the population finds unpalatable, they riot and get their way in the end. Here in the UK we are not like that, and so our government takes liberties with us, like the blanket 20mph in Wales to reduce deaths. (which apparently had the opposite effect, and they have risen).

Hi all, I’m looking for some advice. I have a 2019 Kodiaq, which is in its second year of an All-In Skoda service plan. Prior to that it was serviced by an independent local garage. The plan includes one standard service and one extended service, to include one change of pollen filter and spark plugs. I took it to my local dealer for its first Skoda service and MOT last year, and they claimed for the extended service. It was 6 years old and had done 43000 miles. It was booked in with the same garage this year for it’s scheduled service and MOT but they cancelled 3 days before the MOT due date, so I had to take it to another Skoda dealership (not under the same ownership). This dealership conducted the standard service and MOT and advised that the spark plugs had to be changed, due to them having no record of them being done previously. I believe spark plugs are due at 4 years or 40,000 miles. They advised that the first garage should have changed them at the extended service the previous year, when the car was at 40,000 miles but they didn’t. As they weren’t able to claim the cost for an extended service (due to the first garage having already claimed it), I have had to pay £173 for a change of spark plugs! I have visited the first garage to question why the spark plugs were not changed at the extended service. They have said they performed the six year service, as that was the age of the car and the spark plugs are not due at the six year service. The pollen filters are due at that point and that is why they claimed the extended service fee. I am of the opinion that the spark plugs also should have been changed at last year’s service. The garage still claimed the full value of an extended service from VWFS (the service provider). They have no official record of the spark plugs having ever been changed, as it was not under a Skoda garage prior to last year. Plus it had done 43,000 miles at the time of last year’s service. Keen to get others opinions and advice on next actions. Thanks

The invoice only says "replace driver's door lock", and even that was just a recommendation from the initial diagnostics check, so no actual record of the work done. I should also have mentioned that the door lock clunks repeatedly due to the fault, so that goes with the dinging for the engine running!

With Skoda / VW it is common that NEW DISCS are required sooner than pads or at the same time. Long gone are the days of several sets of pads before the discs need replaced. But then Skoda main dealer servicing might have Brake Fluid changed but not SERVICING of the Brakes, strip and grease pins etc.

If they didn't clear the codes how would they be able to tell they had fixed the problem?. Normally faults that have not been fixed correctly will reappear as soon as the vehicle is started or driven. The awkward faults are those where codes are logged, cleared and return after a period of time. I used to use VCDS to periodiclly check for codes, there would be codes listed which didn't result in any messages on the dashboard, that when cleared never returned or sometimes did return many weeks later, usually it was just a sensor reporting a reading that was out of spec.

Our 2015 Fabia. 1.2 110 bhp DSG, total of 23500 miles, still on the original pads, would expect them to last to at least 50k on the front and over 100k on the rear, based on last 20 years experience, but its very much down to driving style. Garage that does the yearly service always reports on brake pad wear.

I don't know how helpful it is to document the steps needed to remove the trim - I didn't find it easy to follow the manual. As a taster - the first step is to remove the horizontal bar at the side of the luggage compartment that has the hooks on it. The hooks can be snapped off (probably before removing the bar, just by manipulating to the right angle) The bar is held on by two bolts which are hidden behind a strip of plastic on the face of the bar. To remove that strip of plastic - it is clipped into the bar at each end but it also clips in about 1/3 the way down which can be accessed through small rectangular apertures at bottom and at top. There may be a special tool, a bit like a caliper, that presses in each of these holes at the same time but I managed to get it off by levering with screwdrivers in the holes.

Yes I put a lot into my focus, constant coolant issues engine replacement and various other things. So I researched for reliability. The 3rd gen Octavias came up highly. As did the Toyota corolla but octavia was more in budget. Highly recommend and test drive. Just aim for full service history every year / mileage interval. And budget in a timing and aux belt change if it's not been done recently. Then keep up it's servicing.

Is it something to do with oil being too higher viscosity? Piston cooling sounds like oil jets, so maybe try a thinner oil (specifically the cold viscosity) see if that helps the cold starting error problem

Several passengers, all on their phones. Not even noticed.😆

I did yes

Update on this. Rear donk solved. Bottom droplink bolt on the passenger side wasn't tight (the one bottom right of the 2nd pic). Jacked up the hub so all under load and torqued it up properly. Checked the other side which was ok. As I jacked the hub up and compressed the spring, there was the donk sound but I tried it a couple of times and couldn't see what was moving to make the sound. Did the same after the work was done and silent. Test drive was silent too. Spring looked fine sat in the cup and looked fine under compression so not sure what was up. One thing sorted. Work booked for end of next week - helicoil my dogbone mess, front arb switched to H&R, front topmounts, check the wheel speed sensors then 4wa and hopefully that's it...

In the Skoda parts catalogue, the Superb MK3 estate 4x4 (standard ride height) has the same ten rear springs listed as the Superb MK3 estate FWD (Front Wheel Drive) (standard ride height). The only difference is that the Superb MK3 estate 4x4 (with standard ride height) will have slightly stiffer rear springs as standard compared to the Superb MK3 estate FWD. So probably around 3Q0511115M rather than 3Q0511115AK. Two up in the hierarchy from 3Q0511115M is 3Q0511115P. Sachs 992379 rear springs (matches 3Q0511115P) Length 361mm Wire diameter 13.5mm Number of coil turns about 8.0 Kilen and Lesjofors make a spring that is sold to replace both 3Q0511115N and 3Q0511115P, but should match 3Q0511115P as this is the stiffer spring of the two. Lesjofors 4295137 rear spring (sold to replace 3Q0511115N and 3Q0511115P, so probably a 3Q0511115P rear spring) (same as Kilen 65127) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/3q0511115p There's a seller on ebay that can supply the car's build codes for 3 Euros (about £2.50). If the car has build codes 1JA and 0YE the rear springs have OEM part number 3Q0511115M. Search "skoda vin decoder" to find the listing. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/226517872578

Not sure, but there is a setting to enable the windows to close if it starts raining...

I was on 330, which still had the shop until a few days ago. But now on 334 which has reinstated the shop.

Glad its superficial damage and alls well. You were lucky. Could have been a lot worse. Alasdair

Compression test was good! 13bar in all 4 cylinders. Have put 4 new spark plugs on and just driven to the shops and back with no issues! So it looks like my bro was wrong and it doesn't need a new engine. Perhaps I was lucky and have got away with just a bit of surface damage. Cheers for the help

It may also explain why I haven’t had any software problems………yet!

Today’s task was to add LED lights to the back doors in place of the reflectors. Using information from this post. Lights - https://a.aliexpress.com/_EjjRwBg Wiring - https://a.aliexpress.com/_EzQJ6DU Small Posi taps - https://a.aliexpress.com/_EIUKgwe Large posi taps - https://amzn.eu/d/00FkY8MK Tapped into red and white/ brown and yellow wires using posi taps and tidied up with cloth tape. They project “Superb” onto the floor the same as the front ones. Note - it’s always worth having some spare door trim clips on hand as they seem to be a sacrificial part! https://vehicleclips.co.uk/products/door-card-trim-moulding-clip-with-rubber-seal-skoda-5j0867276

NOW SOLD

Location location location. Long queuing is not necessary if you are visiting charging hubs with plenty ultra rapid chargers and these are not very busy sites. Towing is an issue as far as charging unless it is the type of charging hubs designed to allow vehicles to charge while still hitched up to what ever and not requiring unhitching and re-hitching. I expect the range with a horse box and horse at the Max Gross weight allowed will be greatly reduced. Could it even be half the range.

Hi, Sorry, I'm a TDI owner since 2004 (with 5 different VAG models in the family). I can't be 100% sure, but I think you could be right. As far as I can remember, spark plugs replacement is due @ 40000 miles or 4 years on TSI engines. This need to be checked. I let other TSI owners answer you. Regarding the 1st dealer, it seems they tried to get max amount of money, when claiming the full value of an extended service from VWFS (the service provider). But not doing all operations listed on the service plan is fooling the customer. If the spark plugs are actually due at 40000, I would strongly insist to have them doing it. Arguing your Kodiaq was 43000 and they don't know if it was already done is bul***it. If they just remove the 4 spark plugs they should easily see whether they have actually 43000 miles or less than 3-4000 miles. Whatever the way you will solve this point, I would blacklist the 1st dealer and make next services by the 2nd one. I couldn't trust a dealer who tries to fool me...