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^ Looks very elegant and aerodynamic. 😆

Is this just the anti-stall software not allowing you to trickle along at (too low) revs? What revs is it doing at 38mph in 5th?

We have a location in China where, just like our location, they manufactured the differential for the HAA450 axle. Different versions, that is.

I wrote a guide for connecting by UART should anyone need it in future.

Having had to do this recently to try to recover a bricked MHI2, I found the info to be a bit all over the place so thought I would gather it into one guide. You may well need the guidance of an expert such as @pab567 once connected to the MIB for the next steps in recovery/programming, but this set up will allow them to remote access to you to do so. I take no responsibility for any effect connecting in this way has and am in no way an expert on this process! Useful Video of the general process: Parts required: TTL to USB adaptor. There’s lots about on Ali or Amazon. Look for CH340 chip and you need to make sure it supports 3.3v. This is the one I used https://amzn.eu/d/03Rt3b1k Quad lock extension cable. Not completely essential but this is an easy way of connecting to the right pins and also allows you to connect cleanly and reversibly to the existing wiring whilst maintaining all the other connections to the car for testing purposes. https://amzn.eu/d/086O3DlR Connectors, such as crimp terminals or WAGO connectors. Laptop First step is to make up the cables following this guide https://www.scribd.com/document/849387823/Connecting-TTL-adapter-to-UART-on-quadlock-VAG-MIB2 find the correct wires in the quad lock extension cable and then cut them and crimp/connect on the UART connection wires so they connect to the lever plug end of the extension. I added some labels so I could ensure I connected them to the USB adaptor correctly. You may need RCC or MMX connection so I added in the wires for both and then just connected the right ones to the USB adaptor as needed. Next, prepare the laptop. Download and install PuTTY https://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~sgtatham/putty/latest.html Plug in the USB and find the correct com port associated with it in device manager. Then set up the connection as per the scribd article linked above. Save this as a profile for easy connection next time. Find the correct password required to login to the MIB based on brand and software version as per this article https://www.scribd.com/document/464567838/Audi-Mib2-solution And put it into a txt file so it’s ready to copy and paste. Now connect to the car. It is essential that the car battery is in a good state of charge. Connect a good quality battery charger during this process. I would highly recommend charging the battery for a few hours prior to starting this process to ensure it’s in a good state. You can take the MiB unit out of the glove box but I chose to drop down the whole glove box and rest it on a bucket as it allowed access to the fuses and keeps all other wires connected to the MiB. Remove the 20a fuse (position 12) from the fuse box to power down the MIB unit. Remove the quad lock from the back of the MIB unit and add in the modified extension you have just made by connecting it to the back of the MiB. And the other end to the quad lock of the car that you’ve just removed from the MiB. Ensure the correct wires are connected to the usb adaptor in the right way and that it is set to 3.3v. Plug usb in to laptop. My wires were quite short so I had to balance the laptop on the passenger seat. You can extend the wires when making the adaptor but they should not be extended more than a metre. Open putty and load the profile you set up. You should see a blank black screen. Now copy the password from the txt file. Insert the fuse for the MiB unit. You should see the screen now being populated with text and code as the client logs the activity of the MiB. Press enter and type root, then enter then right click on the black background. (This will paste the password you copied) and press enter. If the login is successful you should see “Audi MIB” in ascii characters as per the picture above. You are now logged in to the MiB. If you are being supported remotely ensure you have an appropriate remote access tool installed to allow your support to control your laptop to enter commands. Using certain command codes it’s possible to backup to an SD card as well as various things such as remove component protection or update fec codes/ program the eeprom etc. I have no information on how to do this! There is a high chance of bricking your unit so do not proceed unless guided by an expert or you are confident in what you are doing!

Rolls Royce engineer. Think he prefers trains to cars.

We all thought EP 42 was the last, but wait, they've now brought out Episode 43. A little building but mostly testing.

Hello, The 1.6-litre engine has a lower ash content.

Does the DFGA engine use/burn more oil than the CXXB?

Something like this means you can rip your CDs easily. https://amzn.eu/d/0iICC1YP

Filtering search by VIN gives same part number for cover as I suggested so if that looks unlike what you remember I think that leaves two possibilities: An earlier cover type had been fitted by someone in the past, or Maybe that's not the car's original engine.

https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/skoda-world/what-was-racing-like-half-a-century-ago-skoda-120-s-rallye-delights-a-champion/

Top Cowling 1.2HTP Škoda 03E103929A ? Need VIN to check properly, but that's what comes up for 2012 CGPA engine. Maybe it had something non-original on it before, if that doesn't look like what you expect. I will message you to ask for VIN. Dirt on the outside of the engine doesn't matter, clean oil inside is much more important

Yes, I know it's dirty as hell 😂 I have tried several places, plus shops, but we are struggling to find the right fit. None of the covers I have found has the oil cap where mine is placed. Ps: its scheduled for a proper clean once the parts are in place

Let's hope that fixes it then. I assume it's being done free of charge under warranty?

The latch on the tailgate springs back to the open position even when forced with a screwdriver. I have reversed right up to the garage door for overnight security. Skoda roadside assistance are due to fit a new latch on Monday. My elroq has only done 3100m since new in May.

Been asked several times on here, answer is always the same - this generation of infotainment systems doesn't support a CD player or changer. You need to rip your CDs and copy the MP3 files onto an SD card.

That's the technical term for causing a screw or bolt to stretch to the point that it doesn't return to original length when undone (elastic region is everything before that). It's actually fairly easy to feel when (if ever) this happens. You continue to turn the head but without any increase in effort like there normally is. Weird feeling. Rare on cars, even on headgasket bolts.

It sounds to me that the ECU is commanding too high closed-throttle revs when engine is up to temperature, you need to have the vehicle scanned for any DTCs (fault codes) recorded. It could be due to a faulty sensor.

All along bad decisions by the Westminster Government and no Sovereign Wealth Fund and using moneys to break the unions (Coal mining etc.) Supposedly no Oil & Gas left and no way could Scotland be Independent. Licences change hands but the UK is not buying them back or buying them out. It is like Hospital Car parks that were leased to companies on very long leases and had to be bought back at great cost to the general public or tax payers. Sometimes for many millions.

Agreed but it still makes zero sense at the current time given all the other stuff going on and with many countries and Europe putting plans in place for possible acts of aggression on the horizon. Each of the decisions taken if looked at in isolation, look defencible. Now piece together those and see the negative effect if a bad player wanted to destabilise a country especially an island solely reliant on importing vital requirements?

Welcome. Best say what engine you have as we can not just guess. Is it a manual gearbox? With a TSI normal is maybe 1,100 rpm on start up and dropping to 800 or so rpm after 40-60 seconds. Is the AC on or off?

Thanks for the info, Battery was changed about 1 month ago. I have cleaned around the connection and used the car yesterday with no problems, as you say could be just a electrical gremlin. If I get it again I will attempt to unplug it to check contacts.. Thanks for your help

The oil and gas in the British sectors of the North Sea is not Britain's or the UK,s to have. The licences to explore and to extract have been issued to others. The treasury does tax it though. Norwegian and Israeli companies, and Canadian and Americans own the product. It was Russians and they sold them on because they had to. Natural gas from the North sea sold to the UK and arriving into the UK does not come via pipes owned by the UK. Eg, Centrica / British Gas. And as far as the Forties pipeline for oil pushed along by gas. INEOS sir Jim boy Ratcliffe and Petroineos (PetroChina) own it. And it's damn old. Below FYI & a quick read , best check things out & know what is what as things stand now.

I thought all the Haldex AWD stuff was made in Sweden, Hungary (and Mexico)? There are lots of things I would buy Chinese-copies of. Body panels, exhaust components and other such things. There are only one or two factories that make carbon Golf bonnets, for example, so whether you pay £300 on AliExpress or £3000 from ECS, it'll be the same item. A safety critical, mechanical item, with no background, such as a differential though... The only such item I've seen with any success are the BONOSS bolts @travs uses. They're actually a pretty nice item, with rolled threads and (some) proof of being TUV tested.

That depends how you do it… Check YouTube for methods to safely unclipping and reconnecting. Alternatively - as it’s an electrical gremlin…when was your battery last changed?

Very late replying, but I had a failure in my Swedish MOT yesterday because of an engine oil leak. Spent most of today degreasing and washing the engine bay of my 1999 1.3 Felicia and discovered the leak was from the cam follower cover. When I checked the cover bolts, 2 were finger tight and the other 2 were not much better..... To be on the safe side I've ordered a new gasket and 4 of the cover bolt rubber seals.....

Angle tightening is essential for fasteners that are taken into the plastic region, but far more often it is simply a far more accurate way of tensioning a(ny) bolt compared to torque alone. The impact and variability of friction when tightening only by torque creates wide uncertainty in the achieved pre-tension. Angle tightening is independent of friction because the bolt extension is directly related to thread pitch and the angle used. Smaller torque plus angle gives a far more predictable outcome. So it's just a better way of tightening important fasteners, not a guarantee that the bolt in question is permanently lengthened in each usage.

That is absolutely correct you've nailed it. It happened twice now with AD, first time with wrong front pads where they send me pads for 312mm disc even though mine are 340mm which i filtered out, checked against chassis number, cross-referenced with oem part number and even spoke to their technical team who told me that particular part was correct which it wasn't. Same thing this time, Eibach themselves confirmed which kit i need based on chassis number and load ratings for each axle. Checked with Autodoc and boom still wrong. Understand everyone can make mistake but it's the resolving approach what makes difference. In this case they failed miserably.. . lesson learnt

So for those that are interested, 2 weeks in and 1200 miles I can happily report that the car is superb. The Wife is very happy with the vRS. Super quiet and very comfortable. Given the drop in temps over the last couple of weeks, the car is giving roughly 250 miles in range. Not bad for an 85kw battery and a car that's just over 2200 kilos. Only niggle is regards to not being able to hang up a car using the steering wheel controls. Road noise is minimal even on the massive 21s. I took the wheel trims off the other day to wash the car and the alloys underneath are pretty nice however the massive drum brake on the rear isn't. I must say though, I felt a little better when I say an Audi Q4 with the same said drum brake at the rear. I'd also like to see more options to customise the instrument cluster, it's a bit bland. The HUD is really good especially when using the built-in sat nav however Waze doesn't project onto the HUD. Overall a great car up to now. The Wife has decided that she'll use Eco on a long run and Individual on shorter journeys. The suspension on Normal is quite floaty (if you like that kind of thing) so we've chosen the Sport setting for the dampers in Individual and everything else in normal apart from the steering which we have in Sport. Tip for those when you collect, check your tyre pressures, ours were all over the place.