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The old girl still polishes up well ....

The end of a very hot day 🥵

At the Res earlier................

Brake fluid used to be first @ 2 years then each 2. About 2010 changed to first @ 3 years then each 2. Since the VW Emissions Scandal things changed to First @ 2 years then every 2 years. Customers are the Goose that keep laying Golden Eggs.

This is for a 1.4l, but might be of help to you.

I tend to take photos with either a Minolta Dimage F100 or an S304, depending on the situation. However, my Mum's Kodak EasyShare I found in a drawer. It's not that bad, it kept overexposing slightly in automatic mode, so I've compensated for that when loading the images into Ulead PhotoExpress 3.0 (yeah it's about 25 years old but works bob on).

Duly noted. 👍

The Cygnets were paddling flat out to keep up with Mum! 1070898~2.mp4 And a few others we spotted......... 1070802~3.mp4

I bought some black/white Skoda badges from AliExpress but the white wasnt quite right (more like candy white rather than Moon White of my car) and wasn't the clean look I was hoping for. I refuse to pay £100 for two Skoda badges from Kopacek so decided to make my own. I ordered another pair of Black/White badges from AliExpress. I thought I would use the White background ones so that the paint had a pale base layer to go onto. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009424974993.html I then ordered some colour matched spray paint including clear lacquer. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166899014624 And finally some specialist hard plastic glue as SuperGlue doesn't work well on the ABS plastic these badges are made from https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0001OZI5C First step was to dissasemble the badges. These come off quite easily with a slight bend of the back plate and gentle pry from a trim tool. I labelled each badge A/B and put the black parts in labelled bags so that they would reassemble properly. The whole of the white area of the badge as roughed up with some fine sandpaper and then wiped over with Isopropyl alcohol to remove any dust and residue. These then had 3 gentle coats of basecoat At this point I was slightly concerned that the colour didnt look much different so I painted a small portion of the cardboard with OEM touch up paint as comparison and it was spot on. This can be seen at the bottom right of the above picture, so I was happy to crack on. Next was two gentle coats of clear lacquer and this really brought out the colour and the metallic in the base coat. The photos really don't do it justice. Then came reassembly. The glue is the type that gets applied to both parts separately, allowed to dry for a few minutes and then assembled. These went back together well and will be left for a couple of days to fully cure. In between the rain showers I had to have a quick comparison with what I started with. It looks brilliant in person and hopefully shows up on the photo below. With the car clean, and not covered in rain, I think the colour match will be perfect and a certain improvement over the standard AliExpress badge. Total cost was just under £30 so cheaper than one Kopacek badge without delivery and took approx half an hour of work and a couple of hours of drying time all in. No real skill required other than a gentle hand on dissasembly and ensuring light coats of paint to avoid runs. Im not sure if OEM badges dissasemble in the same way, so this could potentially be done with an OEM Monte Carlo badge to ensure fitment to the car is perfect. I shall await some better weather and get them installed on the car and update with further pictures when that's done.

2nd job was to fit the dog guard and divider. I was marvelling at how big the boot was and then I put the dog in the car.

Hello guys, I am Nic from France. I have a bright red Skoda Scala. I always joke to my girlfriend that "in the fog, it looks like a Ferrari...". Thankfully she loves me for more than my sense of humour as I have other qualities (I look like Brad Pitt... in the fog). Anyway, nice to meet you all, nice day and safe travels!

There was a member posting about spurious oil level warnings on a new car of about the same vintage, a few years ago, I think. Dealer had several goes at fixing it. Wish I could remember the member's name. Don't worry about the cold level, just remember how it relates to operating temperature level, for convenience. Some people swear the level will be higher when cold. My experience is the opposite.

Yes Bap, I contacted the dealer today about the registration docs, only to be told that the they had yet to receive the docs themselves from the previous owner! But they assure me that I will have the registration doc by next wednesday..... In any case, a very helpful Briskoda member named Pete, deciphered the VIN, and now I have proof that my Kodiak is indeed a front wheel drive, code 1XO. Next stop, contact the insurance again, and persuade them that the car is a FWD instead of their listed AWD. Fun times ahead!! Thanks and Best Regards, Jim

TBH I'd be changing insurer if they can't even get vehicle details correct from a registration plate or VIN

Before anything else, check the 12v battery condition. Even a slight drop in voltage can cause a variety of intermittent electrical gremlins in these cars.

The time has come to bid farewell to my Superb, shes served me well with only servicing/tyres costs for the last 5 years. I usually move when a car hits 100k but kept until 123k. Its a move thats not come easy but time to make a leap of extreme faith into an Audi EV (don't hate please),

Oulton Park Yesterday, a mate was racing. Weather wasn’t so good.

First visit of the year to Coningsby.... 1440078~3.mp4 1440077~3.mp4

That’s a wrap! pause for applause and general mirth A nice bit of morning sunshine and no plans with the family meant I could finally finish wrapping the passenger side chrome strip. The rear quarter light has some dings on the chrome from an unknown event with the previous owner so that took about 4 failed attempts to get right. Eventually got it looking good enough with the only tiny crease of the whole project. It looks great from a distance, just don’t look too closely! As I say with a lot of my projects “Stevie Wonder would be pleased to see it” Just the roof rails to swap out and then the full dechrome is complete. They require a guaranteed dry day so may be some time before I attempt that!

Just a quick point: the transfer case for the rear axle of the 4x4 is a Haldex Gen 6, manufactured by BorgWarner. As a former supplier of the complete transfer case, I can tell you that VW themselves extend the maintenance interval. BorgWarner has completely different recommendations 😜

I had a sense last night's Sunset might be a decent one 🌞

That’s just the trouble, People don’t think! I’m always super paranoid working around airbags and routing cables. It takes no more than a few minutes extra and some small Cable ties to be sure.

Hello there. Freshly downloaded. Take a piece if you need ;) https://1drv.ms/f/c/d868f7f8e8ece8e8/Eh7N58_7gyZCtogSIt8kgisB4ZszuIGLrZTSSsdabNOtZw?e=5mWfuG

Took a wheel off to test fit the new black centre caps. Non OEM so expected they would need some fettling. Nothing a few rounds of insulation tape on the back side won’t fix. First time using positioning pins for installing the wheels. What a game changer! I also ordered a 1/2” drive adaptor for my drill as I don’t own an impact. That’s a revelation too. Very useful for running nuts in once started by hand, and out and also operating scissor jack. Effortless to lift the car

Love is in the air 😍 1430349~4.mp4 And a few others from today.........

And all this because I was posted about the economy of my particular model. 😂😂😂

That'll be one person in this thread... 🤣

Surely it doesn't really matter either way if you treat zero as zero... Which is what most sensible people do

Little Donkey meets the basic criteria, and tbh an EV is what really suits my needs now.

The system can trigger unexpectedly and can be quite sensitive.Two examples from my own experience / one annoying and one superb. As I exit my driveway, the path dips toward the road causing the front of the Car to drop. At any speed over a few mph it will see the road as a danger and Brake. Last year I was waiting at a Mini Roundabout for an opportunity to go straight across. There was car crossing from my right and a car waiting on the road from the left. The car on the right passed me and there was no further traffic so I looked over at the car on the other side. It started to move , there were no indicators to show that it was turning right so I assumed that it was going straight on. So I started to slowly move straight ahead. Then the Car suddenly did a u turn and crossed in front of my Car. The autonomous brake sensed it and slammed on the anchors and we stopped dead.There was no contact between the cars but it was close. The Car in front then shot off down the road.All caught on my Dashcam. I spoke to a Road Traffic Officer some days later and he said as described it was a 'Baiting' technique for crash for cash , he said that if it wasn't for the fact that I was going so slow (4mph on the dashcam) and the Braking that I would be involved in an accident that would have been deemed to be my fault. Automatic Emergency Braking does have its uses.

So i did 120 miles for £3. Then i put in £7 charging. Then another £19 and have done 170 miles. Now at 98%. Showing 175 mile range but in my 160 miles to get home i will put in a £5 charge on the way. So £34 for 330 miles and there will be maybe 30 miles range once home. No charging issues with last 2 chsrges @ 65 pence and 55 pence a kWh. Real life EV travel like this maybe half the time, or more when using familiar charging places. When it is crap experiences is often when in a hurry ,or during bad weather and when i lesst want the hsssle. A 300 mile plus range and home charging is obviously more sensible than a low range BEV. EDIT. Stopped for dogs to stretch legs, plugged in for 5 minutes and put in 4 kWh. £2.69. Got home with 30 miles range. (Average speed including stop 50 mph. Half was Motorway.)

Why? Can they not use degreaser and a hose? Id do the same if I were you. Just wash engine bay with spray degreaser and water at car wash close to garage. No need for steam clean

Depends if there was any load on it when you measured that voltage. Open circuit voltage doesn't give much clue about what it does when there is a draw on it.

@Jim Reire No 8 speed DSG,s in Europe unless you count 7 forward and reverse. 1.5 or 1.4 FWD do not use the DQ200 7 speed twin dry clutch DSG, they get a 7 speed wet clutch DSG.

Well... Based on previous experience bugger all... Except the pride In knowing you guessed correctly. 😉 If you're lucky I'll post a picture of it tomorrow as a reward.

Hi all, Long time lurker, finally pulled the trigger on a mk3.5 superb l&k iV. Really impressed so far, very comfortable, great on fuel and plenty of space for the family. Came from a Leon fr, so getting used to not chucking into the bends 😅. Hope everyone is enjoying the recent good weather in the uk. I look forward to contributing to the forum, already had a good look about the various topics on here and can feel my wallet getting lighter. Cheers, Jay

Yes - truly wonderful. Didn't see an Albatross unfortunately. Very pleased to have seen this. Very distant and not the best photo, but chuffed nonetheless 👍

Yes fob battery life is greatly shortened (I change mine annually when MOT is done) important to change spare fob battery too and use it approx. once every 3 months (to re sync with the cars rolling codes)

Hi folks, Had a call from my local dealer yesterday to confirm that my new Elroq has arrived (ordered start of February), and it’s due for collection on Thursday. Really looking forward to it! It’ll be my first EV, and I’m coming from a 66‑plate Skoda Superb L&K 2.0 TDI with just over 141,000 miles on it. I've had it almost 10 years, love it. I’ve already had a Hypervolt 3 charger installed, so everything’s ready to go. Pretty buzzing! For those who already own an Elroq: Do you have any advice for a first‑time EV owner? Anything I should check, set up, or be aware of when I pick it up (other than just enjoying it 😄)? I’ve got a feeling the standard tyres might not be the best—bit disappointing from Skoda on a car at this price point—but I’m not quite ready to drop nearly £1k on a set of Continental all‑seasons just yet. Car: Škoda Elroq SportLine 85 Added Equipment: Graphite Grey Metallic Front aluminium door‑sill covers Front & rear mud flaps Foldable tow bar Winter Package Maxx Package Heat pump Driver Package 5‑year / 100,000‑mile extended warranty

A few from this evening........ 1440152~3.mp4

Now if they would make an electric Octavia estate..... that would be my sweet spot.

2 years. Comes from @varooom who is sadly no longer here but definitely from the inside and pretty much font of all knowledge.

As a little extra, even the VW R models, Audi RS3, and Mercedes A-Class AMG, Cupra etc...have a multi-plate friction clutch; only the high-performance models have two of them, and the preload is achieved differently. However, the complete system isn't a VW or Audi development. It also comes from our company. Currently, we're offering the electrification of this model. 😜

I'd generally describe someone as reluctant when they question something four times - 'Doesn't Skoda say the diff is "lifetime"?', 'What's the evidence for this?', 'Who is the authority on this?' and 'I was under the impression that the dealers usually say it’s lifetime.' Since this isn't going to be let go, I've spent a good twenty minutes on Google. Something you need to understand is that VWAG, be it Audi, VW, SEAT, Cupra or Skoda, are utterly useless when it comes to service intervals and maintenance schedules. This is something you will find on every single VAG forum. While a phone call or quick search on here, SEATCupra.net or VWVortex.com would have given you the answer you needed, I'll explain it anyway. The reason you've been unable to find any reference to the VAQ LSD is because VAG don't call it that in any documentation. I don't know why, but they don't. VW refer to it as the 'front axle differential lock', while Skoda only refer to it in service items as the 'final drive oil'. This is a bit misleading, as 'final drive oil' is the same term used for Haldex AWD systems, which have a slightly different interval. I'm not going to send you a thirty-something email chain between my friendly Skoda dealer and I (not least because I'm not putting my buiild sheet and VIN on the internet), but that is what I found out. You can choose not to believe me if you want - I'm trying to help. The dealers are absolutely useless. For service departments filled with 'car enthusiasts', they are utterly woeful - I wouldn't go near one if they paid me. They do not understand the VAQ, and most don't even know it exists. As mentioned before, it is an electronically-controlled, hydraulically-actuated multi-plate clutch unit - it uses hydraulic pressure to enage and disengage a clutch that ties the front wheels together. This needs to be looked after properly. If you do find a dealer that knows what they're on about (I haven't yet) then most don't service it properly and won't clean the pump screen/gauze. The following is a section of email between a service advisor and I - 'Please note that the Diff gauze isn’t included in the cost for the Front Diff Lock Oil. As per SKODA’s Workshop Manual, when we perform this operation, only the Haldex Oil and Drain Plug are replaced. The Diff gauze would be an additional cost.' Clearly then, it wouldn't be a proper service according to the Skoda manual. Now, with all of that in mind, we can find a few official sources, outside of the internally-available service information. Again, remember that VAG service information is rubbish - hence why most sensible owners default to what is recommended by specialists. This document mentions 'Front axle differential lock: Change fluid (if equipped)' This document also mentions 'Front Axle Differential Lock if applicable: Every 3 years' This link, under the extended scope inspection, describes 'check/replenish final drive oil', with reference to this being every 3 years, or 30k miles. This graphic shows that the Haldex 4x4 wants doing every 3 years or 30k miles - remember that the VAQ is the exact same Gen5 pump as the AWD system. This document mentions 'Front Axle Differential Lock if applicable: Every 3 years' This service, under any vehicle equipped with a VAQ, also describes 'Front Axle Differential Lock (if equipped) - Change fluid every 3 years' Although not official, if you don't trust AwesomeGTI, you're wasting your time on any VAG forum - 'Every 20,000 miles Recommended Haldex oil + filter interval' and 'Gen 1, 2, 4, 5 and the VAQ front differential'. Link to here. I can't speak for the MQB Evo intervals, as I believe it was only Skoda that reduced the VAQ to 2 years. You question 'time versus mileage' - it is generally assumed that the average person covers 10,000 miles a year - therefore, a service interval of 30,000 miles becomes, according to VW too, 30k or 3 years, whichever is sooner. I've never heard of anyone being told the unit is sealed for life. Even if they are - two things. Firstly, this is likely the words of an inexperienced, bored service advisor - I wouldn't trust them as far as I could throw them. Second, some common sense is required. If we know that the Gen5 Haldex AWD unit needs servicing, then it stands to reason that the Gen5 Haldex VAQ unit also needs servicing. The reason that many places 'might suggest a more agressive service schedule than is... required' is simple - VWAG service information sucks, and the stuff breaks. You can imagine that if an electronically-controlled, hydraulically-actuated multi-plate clutch unit sounds liable to problems, then two seperate manual gearboxes, spliced into one electronically-controlled unit with two concentric input shafts and two clutches is even more liable. That's what a DSG box is. For completeness, and seeing as you mentioned it, we can touch on the DSG intervals. VAG uses several DSG types - the DQ200, DQ250, DQ381, DQ400e, DQ500 and the longitudinal DL501. All of these boxes are 'wet clutch', meaning the clutch plates are submerged in oil, with the exception of the DQ200 which is a 'dry clutch', where the clutch plates spin in air, like a traditional manual setup. All of the 'wet' boxes have filters that can, and should, be changed - even if VAG doesn't do this. The DQ200 has no filter, but does have both a gear oil and MCU (Mechatronic Unit) oil to change, when it is needed. This is often suggested around 100,000 miles. All of the DSG boxes have a recommended service interval of 40,000 miles, except the DQ200 (no interval) and the DQ381 (80,000 miles). This is because the DQ381 is supposed to use a more advanced low friction oil. Whether this actually works or not, I don't know of anyone that leaves it until 80k. I did mine at 40k, and plan to take another view at 60k - I don't cover the miles, but I do drive very hard, so am going off of 40k/4 years. I see you've requested to delete your account. It's a shame, but if you find the forum such hard work, then I don't suppose you will miss it. As you can hopefully see from the above reply, many of us here on Briskoda do have a wealth of knowledge about these cars. I find that, generally, people don't tend to take too kindly to their information being questioned multiple times. Were it new information, then I could understand, but this is a topic that has been discussed many times since 2017, and a simple search will show many links and screenshots by various members over the years. Personally, I found your replies to be a bit standoffish and cynical, although I appreciate this may not have been the intended tone. Oh, and in reply to this 'but all the sources I find are independent and have an interest in making money' - what do you think a main dealer makes more money from, selling cars, or servicing them? I'll let you in on a secret - it's not the first one. If you spend the time, have a search on the various VAG forums and see why stealers are hated so much - they are dishonest, unreliable, often incorrect, careless and vastly overpriced. Buy the car, be it brand-new or approved-used, and run. I hope this helps, whether you view this as a member or guest.

A mod might merge the 2 post / threads asking the same thing.

Sand Martin hide.............. 20260504_133651~5.mp4

Yes don,t do anything before speaking to them. I would tell them that the keys were stolen/cloned and someone is accessing car. They will probably have an approved auto locksmith that they use and if you do anything yourself will probably not pay out. Might be worth explaining situation to them. As far as I know cloning keys and accessing a vehicle without permission and causing damage are all criminal offences and the police should do something. Hope you get it sorted. Alasdair

The Mk3 does not have a clutch on the A/C compressor - the compressor is permanently engaged unless the shear-plate on the pulley has failed.

It sounds like you’ve got a problem with safety systems in general, rather than ACC in particular. They aren’t perfect, but I believe the roads are safer with them. I don’t like lane assist because my car isn’t smart enough. It’s not a Tesla, and I don’t like how it pulls me over a line when the road merges into one lane, for example. I also wouldn’t dream of using it on a country road, for example. That’s why I bought my 2020 Mk3.5. I can have all the safety things I want, but I can also turn them all off and they stay off. The only thing I’ve disabled is TSR. It was always wrong, and as it worked in conjunction with ACC, it was an absolute menace. I wasn’t suggesting cars have feelings - I was suggesting that different models, and different types of cars, are programmed slightly differently. It makes sense that a performanceish car like the vRS would react different to hard braking than a 1.0 Ibiza. The reason none of this is regulated by law (beyond the implementation of it) is the same reason US headlights are limited by lumen output, and our headlights are limited by wattage. Useless!

Ok, this is now resolved - the hub had to be changed because the car is still under warranty and future claims for related part might not be valid otherwise. I had to pay for the hub, of course 🫠 I would think about the wheel every time I drive on the highway if the dealer used one of those tread repair kits anyway. I've talked with few colleagues what happened, and some of them said that it's not very easy to do a hub thread damage with Lidl's impact wrench which I've used. It was even set to mid-power not to max. And having in mind I had to torque all the bolts with a torque wrench after that. Anyway I've learned my lesson. I'll be more careful next time. I won't use the impact wrench for tightening the bolts, but only for loosening them. And I'll also use a positioning pin as well. Cheer guys!