Warrior193

@Catherine41 - in your second post you mentioned bent 'pistons' that had to be replaced due to damage - did you actually mean engine valves?

If engine valves were damaged by the failure of the camchain, the valves and associated gear would have had to be stripped and repaired or replaced - to do that, the valve springs and stem seals would have had to be removed from the cylinder head. Did you receive an itemised invoice listing all parts used for the original repair - are you able to post it on here?

Another thought occurs to me - if the original garage replaced valves bent/damaged by the timing chain failure - why were the valve stem seals not replaced at the time? they aren't expensive, and to reuse stem seals (if that's what they did) on an engine with that mileage, just beggars belief.

Much better, I think, to just get a reliable dial type analogue gauge.

Hello Catherine, I'm unable to estimate the cost of checking the valve timing - but I don't think it will take very long to establish - certainly less than an hour. If you do go down this route, ensure the mechanic is aware of previous work done - and that you will require a written report on the results of the check.

Good afternoon @Catherine41 - from your description of the issue and the subsequent, reaction from the garage that carried out the work, putting aside the oil burning issue for the moment - I'm wondering if they made an error in the valve timing when replacing the chain. If you do take it to another (qualified/rated) mechanic, I suggest the timing be checked first - at least that way, if the timing is incorrect, you have the original garage on the hook for the repairs because of their mistake.

@Nexus21 when you open the menu by pressing the gear symbol at the bottom right of the screen, what options are listed - is an option for 'tyres' displayed?

Op said it does.

Have you checked inside the 'bellows' section between door pillar and door?

I have to say that my auto-dim RV mirror is great, I am never actually aware how well it operates unless I switch it off.

Good morning @Aumeisters - I recommend a trawl through sections mentioning broken wiring in the flexible connections to the doors - probably drivers side as it gets more use.

Turbo dump valve (wastegate)?

Xman might have a point - although I seem to recall that OP said in one posting that the TPMS reset had been seen at some point. On both my Amundsen MIB2 and SWMBOs Bolero MIB2.5 (I think) - Ignition on; Press 'Car' button; Press the 'gear cog' symbol at bottom right of screen; A menu is displayed - Press 'tyres' (2nd option down) Tyre Pressure Loss Indicator is displayed; Press 'Set' and follow the options displayed.

Your infotainment system looks like a Bolero MIB2 - do you know if that's right? I'm pretty sure that the TPMS reset isn't on the status screen. I will check my Amundsen MIB2 shortly and get back to you.

Assuming OP has MIB2 infotainment system - the TPMS reset in in the settings section (tyres)

What was the condition of the old air filter? I suspect that if the filter box screws were badly rusted, it hadn't been changed for quite some time.

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Hello CV, did you get a rebate allowance for the broken spring?

On a Google search, I found an American website (VW TDI Discussion) that says minimum cranking speed must be greater than 200 RPM within 1 second of starter engagement.

The main function of an expansion vessel in any closed system, is (as it states on the tin) to allow for the expansion of the fluid as it heats up - fluids are normally incompressible, without an expansion vessel, fluid pressure would either increase to an unacceptable level through expansion as it heats up (causing failures at joint) - or be lost via any pressure relief valve - that's the reason there's a maximum fill level marked on the EV - to allow space for the heated fluid to expand.

You should be able to get all the CCA you need from a standard lead acid battery, especially if you fit the biggest option available, at a much reduced cost - or consider EFB.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Removing the cap releases the pressure in the cooling system - which reduces the boiling point of the coolant and can cause a hazardous, explosive release of steam as the coolant flashes-over. Unless you topped it up, what did the coolant level stabilise at when the system finally went cold?

Is your colleagues' vehicle fitted with automatic stop-start? If so, EFB is the minimum required - AGM is best, but more expensive. What type is the current battery? Was the replacement battery adapted (coded) when it was replaced? If the incorrect battery type was fitted - and was not correctly adapted, this will almost certainly be the cause of the issue.

From memory, no lower than about 10.5 volts - the trouble with doing this test with a multimeter is that it is almost impossible to see what the DMM display is showing because it is changing so rapidly - even an analogue meter is very difficult to read under those conditions.

A loose or dirty terminal connection will cause a significant issue both in charging and starting performance.