Warrior193

From my Karting days, I recall that NGK plugs often ran about 1/2 a heat range hotter than the equivalent plug from other manufacturers.

Hi, welcome to the forum. Is the new card the correct (Skoda/VAG) one - or a standard SD card?

- Or heat range of plugs incorrect, I.e. plugs too hot.

It depends on how long engine was operated with no oil pressure - if crank and conrod bearings have 'run' I would imagine a complete engine rebuild (top & bottom) - or replacement engine would be required! The cause of the loss of oil pressure (possible oil pump failure?) would also need to be investigated. Repair cost could well be close to being uneconomic. What is the mileage?

I rather fear the damage has already occurred. Serious damage to connecting rod bearings (probably the knocking sound on your audio file) will be almost immediate once oil pressure is lost.

How long has vehicle been driven with oil pressure warning light - is this the red warning indicator - or the yellow one? Was oil level correct before it was changed? There is a very strong likelihood of serious engine damage if oil pressure failure warning was ignored.

That will almost certainly be a faulty rear hatch sensor switch - does the trunk light work?

Hello Sarah, welcome to the forum. Unless the missed/delayed service related to a gear box required item, I believe your warranty should not be affected. Assume you have DSG - could you post details of your engine/gearbox? (engine code) Other members should be able to offer advice.

My limited understanding is that it is something to do with the compartmentalisation of the card.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Have you checked if a specialist supplier can make one for you?

What infotainment system do you have? suspect it's MIB2. Are you certain the card is formatted correctly? for maps, the MIB2 requires correct card - normally a Skoda branded one. Somewhere in my memory, I recall maximum SD card size allowed is 32gb.

I'd suggest ignoring instantaneous fuel readings, try using the average ones for a more meaningful calculation.

I suggest checking all wheel hubs for unusual heating after driving a few kilometres - preferably somewhere where hard braking is not required.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Have you checked for binding brakes?

If the replacement battery is exactly the same type and specification as the old one, the only important data to change is the battery serial number - which can simply be the original number with the last digit changed. Battery brand code is not important. Only critical data is capacity (in AHs), battery type (EFB/AGM) and serial number. Changing the serial number tells the battery monitoring module that the battery has been changed, and any existing battery faults registered will be deleted, allowing the charging system to operate normally.

I'd suggest having a compression test done. How long have you owned it?

As the Webasto system can be specified as an option in your country, pretty unlikely to cause an issue with DTCs. From my knowledge of electric block heaters in Canada, non-circulation of heated coolant is not an issue - there should only be a very short delay for the block coolant to reach the heater battery once the engine has started.

There is a Webasto kit, but IIRC it's not available as an option for RHD vehicles. You could try one of the retro-fitters. One member on here has fitted one of these himself - I cannot remember the build topic title at the moment.

Worrying that it seems even the G3 version may be prone to the earlier Ea888 oil consumption issues. @s88urd what mileage is on the odo?

Are the tyres you have fitted the correct size? - have they been changed recently?

ACT = Active Cylinder Technology - where two cylinders are deactivated under light load conditions, with the engine running on two cylinders only.

Yes, unless the present battery has an internal dead short (which does not sound to be the case) Is it the case that you have not seen any charging system fault indications recently (red battery symbol) - apart from when you first switch on the ignition?

The 'battery indicator' you mention does not indicate state of charge (SOC) - it merely indicates the electrolyte level in one of the centre cells. Do you have a test meter to check the battery voltage? Is the battery original?

While not absolutely essential if exact replacement, it is possible that the new battery may not charge correctly if faults have been recorded against the original. Battery adaptation is done via VCDS device or similar, there is a register on the forum of members who may be near you and able to do it at minimal cost.

No radio code required. Any new battery should be adapted (coded) into system so that any charge-limiting faults recorded for the old battery are removed. Battery adaptation should still be done, even if replacement is exactly the same specification as old one - in which case, a minor change to recorded battery serial number will suffice. Suggest getting the old battery tested first. Check with your intended battery fitter that they have the necessary equipment to do the battery adaptation.