3 minutes ago, FabiaGonzales said:

Axle load is in the manual i believe. If not, the springs you look at have different options, yours will be the lower of them, as the higher load ratings are for the 1.2 TSI and the 1.4 TDI engines. Being a 1.0 with DSG, it may actually bring it up to the same axle load as a 1.2 non-DSG.

Check the manual first though, don't take my word for it. It should also say what engine/transmission the springs are for on the product page. If it's a good retailer at least.

 

I've not heard about any such issues with Eibach springs. Eibachs are best paired with a set of slightly stiffer shocks though, Bilstein B6 or B8 (B8 is a shortened version of B6 for if you decided to go really mad with lowering) shocks are perfect.

They're designed to feel like stock when driven normally, but when a bit more load is put on with some "spirited" driving, they stiffen up and support the weight of the car better. Eibachs with normal shocks, may feel a little floaty when driven normally.

 

Go for H7 LEDs, make sure you get a decent brand though, Philips does a good set. You may need some bigger dirt caps for behind the bulbs though.

 

As for ECU tune, i would take it to a big brand, who will have their own generic maps as starting points, then tailor it specific to your vehicle. Cheaper places usually just either dump a generic map in there, or see "ooh a turbo, turn off boost limits" and don't really consider the negatives of such actions.

Big companies are also more likely to provide support down the line if you have issues with the map, some provide warranty on the engine/transmission too. They also have the money to do real reasearch on the limits of the engines and know what can and shouldn't be tweaked.

 

Note, want more than 130 BHP? You'll need to go hybrid turbo. That'll take you to about 180.

 

First and foremost - Thank you so much for your quick and knowledgeable response!

I really really do appreciate it, especially after I just bombarded the entire forum with a crap tonne of questions HAHA!

Regarding axle load, I've finally found it after searching around for a solid 5 minutes haha.. Im blind OTL

• Axle Loading - 870kg at the front, 780 kg at the back! [Surprisingly, no info in the manual ._.]
• Don't really plan on going too low tho, because of 2 stupidly huge speed bumps in my driveway haha...
  • Dad drives a completely stock 2010 Mazda 3, and he scrapes with 3 passengers in the car 😕 
  • Also ... https://youtu.be/K_JlpS_QDgM?t=134 [<-- Lowkey worried now haha.. is he trustworthy?]
• Given I probably wont run Bilstein shocks [mostly due to limited budget, as a university student]
  • Are stock shocks with Eibachs worth the investment? Or should I just stay stock?
  • Mostly cosmetic reasons because the rear sits too high. Car handles beautifully for me
  • [I think the 215s all around are overkill for this class of cars... my mate drives an accord euro, and runs 225s haha]

Regarding H7 LEDs, I've looked into a couple of eBay and Amazon ones, however I'm struggling to trust testimony and product claims haha

• Claims of longevity - like some claim up to 50,000 hours??? [with some reviews claiming way less and broken purchases]
• Claims of colour temperature - I just want the main beams to match the DRLs 😕 [No mention of color temp in manual too -_-]
• Any recommendations? 

Oh that's really interesting! I've always known of APR, but after some research, I saw BSR and found out they're reputable as well...

But after talking with my mates, they say engine swapping a Polo GTI engine in might be a better idea, but that's probably a separate thread haha..

 

1 hour ago, xCelcia said:

 

First and foremost - Thank you so much for your quick and knowledgeable response!

I really really do appreciate it, especially after I just bombarded the entire forum with a crap tonne of questions HAHA!

Regarding axle load, I've finally found it after searching around for a solid 5 minutes haha.. Im blind OTL

• Axle Loading - 870kg at the front, 780 kg at the back! [Surprisingly, no info in the manual ._.]
• Don't really plan on going too low tho, because of 2 stupidly huge speed bumps in my driveway haha...
  • Dad drives a completely stock 2010 Mazda 3, and he scrapes with 3 passengers in the car 😕 
  • Also ... https://youtu.be/K_JlpS_QDgM?t=134 [<-- Lowkey worried now haha.. is he trustworthy?]
• Given I probably wont run Bilstein shocks [mostly due to limited budget, as a university student]
  • Are stock shocks with Eibachs worth the investment? Or should I just stay stock?
  • Mostly cosmetic reasons because the rear sits too high. Car handles beautifully for me
  • [I think the 215s all around are overkill for this class of cars... my mate drives an accord euro, and runs 225s haha]

Regarding H7 LEDs, I've looked into a couple of eBay and Amazon ones, however I'm struggling to trust testimony and product claims haha

• Claims of longevity - like some claim up to 50,000 hours??? [with some reviews claiming way less and broken purchases]
• Claims of colour temperature - I just want the main beams to match the DRLs 😕 [No mention of color temp in manual too -_-]
• Any recommendations? 

Oh that's really interesting! I've always known of APR, but after some research, I saw BSR and found out they're reputable as well...

But after talking with my mates, they say engine swapping a Polo GTI engine in might be a better idea, but that's probably a separate thread haha..

 

 

The main point that the guy in the vid that's important to here is the damping rate is going to miss-match slightly.

It's not a huge drop, most people would say its hardly a difference, and the springs are designed to give a "stock" feel when driving normally then stiffen up with driven hard.

As long as you get the alignment done, as it's not a big drop you won't have any issues with camber.

Stock shocks should be fine, so long as they're relatively new. My fabia has 52K miles, and the shocks are leaking slightly, if i were to put eibach springs with them, they would almost certainly fail.

 

The Bilstein shocks are well worth the upgrade, they're about 25% stiffer dampening compared to stock, you will still get near stock comfort and ride as well as the benefits of stiffer springs when driven hard.

You'd probably be fine with normal shocks, but as i mentioned, it may feel a bit floaty.

 

Suprised you're running 215/45 R17, mine has 215/45 R16, and i'm sure the stock tyre size for R17 wheels is 215/40;

 

 

As for LEDs, definitely stick to philips ones, they colour match the DRL's quite well.

https://www.philips.co.uk/c-m-au/car-lights/latest#filters=CAR_HEADLIGHTS_SU%2CFK_H7%2CFK_CAR_LED&sliders=&support=&price=&priceBoxes=&page=&layout=12.subcategory.p-grid-icon

 

I would steer away from cheaper ones, as the design of the bulbs has to be VERY specific to have the headlight beams angled correctly. Only Philips and a couple others (cree is one) actually do this.

 

If you had the 1.2 i would have said keep with stock, they're pretty robust engines, but the 1.0 are pretty fresh, and although they do seem well refined, nobody knows how they will fare in the long run. Perhaps sticking in a 1.8 in there from a polo would work but you'd have to check mount points between engines. The 1.0 and 1.2 are literally drop in swaps, others may require custom fabbed mounts.

Got my coilovers done! Night and day difference! It’s smoother than stock over speed humps ect I’ve set it about the same hight as the springs. Cornering is as if on rails better than any Audi I’ve ever owned! Definitely worth the extra best purchase yet! 

3 hours ago, Dannyboy85 said:

Got my coilovers done! Night and day difference! It’s smoother than stock over speed humps ect I’ve set it about the same hight as the springs. Cornering is as if on rails better than any Audi I’ve ever owned! Definitely worth the extra best purchase yet! 

 

Did they have a stiffness setting? What are they on?

 

Which ones did you get in the end btw? Might look into these vs having to renew shocks + springs on mine

19 hours ago, xCelcia said:

 

Regarding H7 LEDs, I've looked into a couple of eBay and Amazon ones, however I'm struggling to trust testimony and product claims haha

• Claims of longevity - like some claim up to 50,000 hours??? [with some reviews claiming way less and broken purchases]
• Claims of colour temperature - I just want the main beams to match the DRLs 😕 [No mention of color temp in manual too -_-]
• Any recommendations? 

 

 

Im planning to see if I can get a set of genuine led headlights from a 2019 model and try a retrofit. 

 

No no idea if it’s possible. But might be. 

 

Jason. 

Edited 29 May, 20197 yr by Jason_M

7 minutes ago, Jason_M said:

 

 

Im planning to see if I can get a set of genuine led headlights from a 2019 model and try a retrofit. 

 

No no idea if it’s possible. But might be. 

 

Jason. 

 

My dealer was looking into it last time i had it serviced, forgot to mention it since, if i remember ill ask them when they call to update me about my gearbox issues

That would sweet. If they can do it. 

Im definitely interested. Depending on cost obviously. 

 

Wont be cheap, but as long as it’s not crazy. 

 

Jason. 

21 hours ago, FabiaGonzales said:

 

The main point that the guy in the vid that's important to here is the damping rate is going to miss-match slightly.

It's not a huge drop, most people would say its hardly a difference, and the springs are designed to give a "stock" feel when driving normally then stiffen up with driven hard.

As long as you get the alignment done, as it's not a big drop you won't have any issues with camber.

Stock shocks should be fine, so long as they're relatively new. My fabia has 52K miles, and the shocks are leaking slightly, if i were to put eibach springs with them, they would almost certainly fail.

 

The Bilstein shocks are well worth the upgrade, they're about 25% stiffer dampening compared to stock, you will still get near stock comfort and ride as well as the benefits of stiffer springs when driven hard.

You'd probably be fine with normal shocks, but as i mentioned, it may feel a bit floaty.

 

Suprised you're running 215/45 R17, mine has 215/45 R16, and i'm sure the stock tyre size for R17 wheels is 215/40;

 

 

As for LEDs, definitely stick to philips ones, they colour match the DRL's quite well.

https://www.philips.co.uk/c-m-au/car-lights/latest#filters=CAR_HEADLIGHTS_SU%2CFK_H7%2CFK_CAR_LED&sliders=&support=&price=&priceBoxes=&page=&layout=12.subcategory.p-grid-icon

 

I would steer away from cheaper ones, as the design of the bulbs has to be VERY specific to have the headlight beams angled correctly. Only Philips and a couple others (cree is one) actually do this.

 

If you had the 1.2 i would have said keep with stock, they're pretty robust engines, but the 1.0 are pretty fresh, and although they do seem well refined, nobody knows how they will fare in the long run. Perhaps sticking in a 1.8 in there from a polo would work but you'd have to check mount points between engines. The 1.0 and 1.2 are literally drop in swaps, others may require custom fabbed mounts.

Apologies for the delay in response - just got back home from work, and having dinner with family.

 

Oh that makes sense! My odometer is currently reading 24,876km so it isn't exactly in 'new' condition...

 

Though, if the shocks were to fail later on upon installation of the Eibachs, which would be a better investment?

• Eibach Lowering Springs with Bilstein shocks, or just upgrade to Coilovers overall? [both would be ~$1300 for me]
• Purpose is purely aesthetics, and I don't really frequent track days at all [yet] - Also this is my daily driver haha..

Oh and good pickup! I realised I made an error - I'm actually running the following specs:

• Engine: 1.2L DSG making 110hp/ps
• Tyres: 215/40 R17s [my bad]

Thanks for the heads up regarding the LED's! I guess my main worry now is longevity - They SHOULD last longer than current halogens right?

 

After much consideration, I've decided against an engine swap, and at most, get an ECU tune from APR.

• Plan after that, is to just save up for a Golf R and go crazy on mods for it haha.

3 hours ago, Jason_M said:

 

 

Im planning to see if I can get a set of genuine led headlights from a 2019 model and try a retrofit. 

 

No no idea if it’s possible. But might be. 

 

Jason. 

 

I am super keen about this as well, especially with the Bi-LED's at the very front! Looks heavenly!

 

However, the main issue is the front grill has been redesigned so it doesn't seem like a direct plug and play 😕 

 

 

 

 

 

 

21 hours ago, FabiaGonzales said:

As long as you get the alignment done, as it's not a big drop you won't have any issues with camber.

If the alignment is ok before hand don't bother getting it done after it's a waste of money. Only the front toe in/out can be adjusted on the Fabia, no camber, no castor and nothing on the rears can be adjusted.

32 minutes ago, xCelcia said:

Though, if the shocks were to fail later on upon installation of the Eibachs, which would be a better investment?

• Eibach Lowering Springs with Bilstein shocks, or just upgrade to Coilovers overall? [both would be ~$1300 for me]
• Purpose is purely aesthetics, and I don't really frequent track days at all [yet] - Also this is my daily driver haha..

 

Would actually be better to just go for the Coilovers at that point.

 

Personally i would go Eibach, but that's my preference with previous experience and a few friends have their coilovers too.

 

Eibach: (£830)

https://www.dpmperformance.co.uk/car-parts/skoda/fabia/eibach-pro-street-s-coilover-suspension-kitfabia-nj-10-12t-si-14tdi-0814

 

ST by KW: (£585)

https://www.dpmperformance.co.uk/car-parts/skoda/fabia/st-x-by-kw-coilover-suspension-kitfabia-nj-20152019-10-12tsi-14tdi

 

 

7 hours ago, Dannyboy85 said:

Got my coilovers done! Night and day difference!

 

Which ones did you get?

1 hour ago, xCelcia said:

 

I am super keen about this as well, especially with the Bi-LED's at the very front! Looks heavenly!

 

However, the main issue is the front grill has been redesigned so it doesn't seem like a direct plug and play 😕 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Looking closer I think you are right. The grille and bar look a little different. 

 

Does anyone know if there was a factory led option for the 2018 year ? I know it wasn’t an option here in Australia. 

 

Jason. 

2 hours ago, FabiaGonzales said:

 

Would actually be better to just go for the Coilovers at that point.

 

Personally i would go Eibach, but that's my preference with previous experience and a few friends have their coilovers too.

 

Eibach: (£830)

https://www.dpmperformance.co.uk/car-parts/skoda/fabia/eibach-pro-street-s-coilover-suspension-kitfabia-nj-10-12t-si-14tdi-0814

 

ST by KW: (£585)

https://www.dpmperformance.co.uk/car-parts/skoda/fabia/st-x-by-kw-coilover-suspension-kitfabia-nj-20152019-10-12tsi-14tdi

 

 

 

Which ones did you get?

 

I went with the ST ones so no adjustments but tbf they are perfect. I thought about upgrading the shocks/struts but your on at least £500 for that and your stuck with one ride hight. 

 

Defiantly wouldn’t recommend springs only as overall motorway driving is awful as well as I had a few very slight scrapes over speed humps because without stiffer dampers the car would compress the springs too much. As now it’s not scraped at all and our roads have some quite seizable speed humps.  This is my daily so I was after a mix of comfort and handling ultimately I think it’s more comfortable on rough or speed humps and transforms the handling in corners especially in the estate. 

 

I love the sweeping motorway ramps now set now set it on 70 and around you go car flat as.. funny watching the boy racers clinging on for dear life haha  

2 hours ago, Jason_M said:

 

Looking closer I think you are right. The grille and bar look a little different. 

 

Does anyone know if there was a factory led option for the 2018 year ? I know it wasn’t an option here in Australia. 

 

Jason. 

 

I have the bi-led in my 68 plate as long as it is a facelift model a retrofit would be possible although there is going to be many parts and probably modules+coding needed. Also, a rear sensor connected to the suspension to run the auto levelling. 

Edited 29 May, 20197 yr by Dannyboy85

20 minutes ago, Dannyboy85 said:

 

I went with the ST ones so no adjustments but tbf they are perfect. I thought about upgrading the shocks/struts but your on at least £500 for that and your stuck with one ride hight. 

 

Defiantly wouldn’t recommend springs only as overall motorway driving is awful as well as I had a few very slight scrapes over speed humps because without stiffer dampers the car would compress the springs too much. As now it’s not scraped at all and our roads have some quite seizable speed humps.  This is my daily so I was after a mix of comfort and handling ultimately I think it’s more comfortable on rough or speed humps and transforms the handling in corners especially in the estate. 

 

I love the sweeping motorway ramps now set now set it on 70 and around you go car flat as.. funny watching the boy racers clinging on for dear life haha  

 

Haha, the body roll on the stock is pretty awful, looks like ill be saving up for those coilovers then!

How was the install? easy? difficult? did you need any other parts to fit along with it? and are there any parts that you think might want to be replaced anyway?

 

45 minutes ago, FabiaGonzales said:

 

Haha, the body roll on the stock is pretty awful, looks like ill be saving up for those coilovers then!

How was the install? easy? difficult? did you need any other parts to fit along with it? and are there any parts that you think might want to be replaced anyway?

 

 

The biggest challenge is getting the original off. The coilovers can be installed without spring compressors so that’s easy. The only fiddly bit is the top strut nuts as you need a Allen key and through socket for the stock ones and a socket in socket for the ST ones. Other than that pretty simple rear is easy.. only other bits to change would be the top strut mounts if they are squeaking. If not they are super easy to change with the coilovers at a later date. 

18 hours ago, Dannyboy85 said:

 

The biggest challenge is getting the original off. The coilovers can be installed without spring compressors so that’s easy. The only fiddly bit is the top strut nuts as you need a Allen key and through socket for the stock ones and a socket in socket for the ST ones. Other than that pretty simple rear is easy.. only other bits to change would be the top strut mounts if they are squeaking. If not they are super easy to change with the coilovers at a later date. 

 

Ooo thanks for the heads-up Dannyboy85!

 

After much consideration, I can feel myself leaning towards the spring-shocks upgrade path before coilovers, as I can upgrade them over time.

• Spreading out of expense if you will HAHA - i'd rather spend a few hundred here and there, than a thousand all at once!
• Plan: Lower car with springs, drive until stock shocks blow, then replace with Bilsteins
• [Don't really plan to track this car, so coilovers might be overkill for me haha...]

Regarding installation, is there a guide that ya'll have followed - because i can't seem to find it 😕 

• What kind of tools and equipment are required to install coilovers [i.e. does it require a Torx kit?]
• What's the best place to jack up the car, to install the suspension components [never rear jacking before]

That's probably about it for my queries hehe... Thanks for helping guys! ^^ I really appreciate it  

I was £580 in with the coilovers. Honestly it’s a pain with springs because you have to compress them to remove and install. I’ll do a write up later on tools needed. Springs being nearly 200 it’s not that much more to just go for it! Also, the ride quality is not great with just springs especially on a combi poss better on hatch? 

 

1 minute ago, Dannyboy85 said:

I was £580 in with the coilovers. Honestly it’s a pain with springs because you have to compress them to remove and install. I’ll do a write up later on tools needed. Springs being nearly 200 it’s not that much more to just go for it! Also, the ride quality is not great with just springs especially on a combi poss better on hatch? 

 

I completely agree with you @Dannyboy85 regarding coilovers!

 

However, as I live all the way in Australia, shipping costs are absolute death, and there doesn't seem to be any Australian companies that stock the ST-X's for my Fabia.

• The closest option that i could find, are for the MK5 Polo - sold for $1,319 AU + free delivery (Can it fit?)
• Currently considering the following, Eibach Springs, with B6 Bilsteins for $1,366 AUD + free delivery.
• Thus, Strut-Spring upgrade vs coilover upgrade HAHA OTL [I can't decide]

Also I browsed other forums and articles, and they've said that coilovers on a car that'll rarely gets tracked is just a waste of money..

 

Also, down below in the photo, is basically all the mods that I want to do to my car haha... Lowered ride with an ECU tune is enough for me  

 

25 minutes ago, xCelcia said:

 

 

I completely agree with you @Dannyboy85 regarding coilovers!

 

However, as I live all the way in Australia, shipping costs are absolute death, and there doesn't seem to be any Australian companies that stock the ST-X's for my Fabia.

• The closest option that i could find, are for the MK5 Polo - sold for $1,319 AU + free delivery (Can it fit?)
• Currently considering the following, Eibach Springs, with B6 Bilsteins for $1,366 AUD + free delivery.
• Thus, Strut-Spring upgrade vs coilover upgrade HAHA OTL [I can't decide]

Also I browsed other forums and articles, and they've said that coilovers on a car that'll rarely gets tracked is just a waste of money..

 

Also, down below in the photo, is basically all the mods that I want to do to my car haha... Lowered ride with an ECU tune is enough for me  

 

 

Bloody hell I’ll ship em to you cost price surely it’s not that expensive! 

31 minutes ago, Dannyboy85 said:

 

Bloody hell I’ll ship em to you cost price surely it’s not that expensive! 

 

WELL depending on where i get them from: [Eibach Springs]

• Tuner Shop UK - 59 Euros (~$100 AUD)
• Eibach themselves - 49.95 Euros (~$80.50 AUD)
• Euro Performance UK - 160 Euros (~$257 AUD)

Thats about all the shops I've look at so for haha OTL - Barely any parts in Australia 😞

 

NOTE: I am a fifth-year university student so yeah, don't have too much money to splash 😛

• But yes, in the grand scheme of things, they aren't that expensive...
• Excluding Euro Performance UK... jeez, the part was on sale for 140 Euros, but shipping costs 160 euros smh

Edited 30 May, 20197 yr by xCelcia

On 27/05/2019 at 17:13, georgerendle said:

What colour badge did you go for? Looked myself and wasn't sure what was right as they don't have one called 'meteor grey'

The colour is "Steel grey" paint code F7A.

I'm almost 100% it's the same as meteor grey, it's just another name in UK.

Find your paint code to be certain. :)

Coloured badges on, looks so much better!

I think that's it for me now. I'd like some bigger wheels but I just can't justify spending the money when the standard wheels aren't bad really. I was gonna have a remap done at some point but after learning the gearbox is only rated to 200Nm I think I'll leave it.

1 hour ago, steslatt said:

Coloured badges on, looks so much better!

I think that's it for me now. I'd like some bigger wheels but I just can't justify spending the money when the standard wheels aren't bad really. I was gonna have a remap done at some point but after learning the gearbox is only rated to 200Nm I think I'll leave it.

 

Looks great with the blue badges!

 

Is yours the 5spd? The 6spd is rated to 250NM.

The boxes will take quite a bit over its "rating". They're rated at what they feel the gearbox will last at least the life of the car.

If you're on the 5spd and still worried about exceeding 200NM, you could try asking around a couple of mapping places. You can usually get them to tune it to a specific amount, e.g. limit at 200NM.

 

The worst thing for the boxes is hard launches (i.e dumping the clutch) and wheel hop. That causes huge shocks through the drivetrain, especially with the rather sloppy engine/transmission mounts in the fabia, and it's that what causes the worst damage. Obviously the box will wear a little more over time than stock from the increased torque. But it's the launches that are the worst for it.

 

I'm looking to replace the engine mounts with something a little stiffer (probably vibra-technics mounts), that pretty much solves the wheel hopping, though the rear bushes on the wishbones may need uprating with some poly ones to fully eliminate it (I've done that on mine, and with correctly aligned steering, it transformed the handling of the steering).

Yeah it's the 5 speed. Good point, I may ask about limiting it to 200Nm.