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Information on install and mesh here:

Not quite. Manual says certain conditions as to when it should be done. When bumper removed it says check conditions as to whether it needs calibrating. It does not mean always when bumper is removed but only if bumper is changed due to impact or if it’s been knocked during bumper assembly:

So thought I would create a project thread - don’t really have any good photos yet, just the photo from the original advert I do have a good few plans now but I currently like driving it as a standard car 🫣 Here is my list - don’t think I will do much more than this… Shorter plates? - need to assess what holes are there from previous owners OBD Eleven Pro for coding Front tints - tinted sunstrip Upper grille to honeycomb Cut out intake vent Turbo inlet and hose to standard air box Panel filter Lowering springs & spacers Fit aftermarket discs & pads front / rear (DBA?) Paint all calipers - silver or grey Remap Change all bulbs to white led - long list 19 x 8.5 alloys 245 tyres Always happy for comments and suggestions though 👌 Will be slow progress I feel

Hi everyone, I'm planning to replace a plastic headrest guide on my 2024 Skoda Octavia IV (NX) with sports seats and integrated headrests. According to the official Skoda repair manual, the backrest upholstery and foam padding can be removed together as one complete unit by releasing the retaining strips at the bottom of the backrest. However, the manual also instructs you to remove the entire backrest from the seat frame first. Has anyone managed to remove the complete backrest upholstery and foam without separating the fabric from the foam and without removing the backrest from the seat base? I'm trying to avoid removing the approximately 23 upholstery hog rings, as I only need access to the headrest guide mechanism. Any experience, pictures or tips would be greatly appreciated!

Again....done it dozen times with no issues. U don't have to do every thing official manufacturer spec. Official manufacturer requirements also state u must do an ACC & Camera Recalibration everytime u do a wheel alignment.......how many do that!?!? Almost none, even the official dealerships themselves don't. I do 2x wheel alignments a year, never done a calibration - radar is still on point, so is the lane assist, so is the SLA. The point is that it can b done without needing calibration.

U need to split the grille off the bumper anyway, in order to split grille and the grille surround. Save urself some $$$ Here is the bumper without the grille....

@386ka I haven't yet as really still not sure what to do. The B4 is described as an OE replacement, but whilst I want to restore the ride to what it should be, there is no point in replicating what I have! And not sure if the B6 might be too harsh. Your mention of Koni Special Active is interesting (especially when I am of the generation that Koni were to go-to for motorbike shock replacement!), and although nothing reported on Octavia Mk4 fitment, other reviews are pretty positive, so it could be a good option...I am investigating further. Decisions, decisions, but eventually I will have to do something as I am really not getting used to the handling.

Going to open up that grille block vent as well same time What mesh is worth adding to the grille to stop being so exposed? I’ve found a guy local who can do it if needed. Going to see I can get a reader to see how out of spec it is

Once again, I only mention this because it is an official manufacturer requirement.

I've removed my front bumper half a dozen times over the past 10 yrs - no calibration required. As @Binx1310 indicated - so long as ur careful not to knock the radar or bump it silly, ur good.

Dealership feedback reveals that Škoda's original sales and production forecasts for the Epiq were far lower than the actual onslaught of orders. To cope with this, the manufacturer recently cleared all unassigned dealer stock vehicles out of the December assembly queue and pushed them back to March to prioritise specific, named customer orders. If your order was tied to an initial allocation or dealer pre-build slot, it likely got swept up in this macro adjustment This from Germany Elektroauto ForumSkoda Epiq: Delivery Time and DatesEpiq Edition Eins: An order from May 28th leads to a production week in September and vehicle delivery between mid and late October.

At least its idling better and your hopefully going in the right direction. Try it without air filter in case its clogged/blocked. Have had a few that idle ok but no power with revs. Alasdair

MacOS adds hidden files that upset the Amundsen, you need to clean up the SD card using an app such as Clean Eject or Blue Harvest.

Check timing belt to see if the camshaft pulley is actually turning then also check EGR valve and intake valve arent stuck closed. I would try without airfilter as well just in case its blocked. It could be a fuel issue so might be worth checking the actual fuel rail pressure. Alasdair

It is worth getting a battery monitor. I have a Bluetooth one from Amazon that works very well. It will help identify if you have a parasitic drain BM2 Bluetooth Battery Monitor... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08VHMJYXY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Hi Konrad, a few things that should take the worry out of it. The car will start and run on the new battery before it's registered, so you won't be stranded waiting for a tool to turn up. Registration is about the long run. The battery energy management in the gateway keeps a model of the old battery's age and cuts back charging as it gets older. If you don't tell it a new one is in, it carries on treating the new battery as the old worn one and never fully charges it. On the Mk3 it's all in 19 (CAN Gateway), Adaptation. There are four channels: 1. Rated capacity: 70 Ah for either of your Vartas. 2. Battery technology: set it to match what you fit. Yours will currently read EFB+ for the Exide, so EFB for the N70 or AGM (shown as Fleece/AGM) for the A7. 3. Manufacturer: a three letter code. VA0 is Varta (your Exide will show TU3). 4. Serial number: 10 characters from the new battery. If you can't find one, just change the existing value by one digit. The important bit is that it changes, otherwise the car still thinks the old battery is fitted. Screenshot or write down the original values of all four before you change anything. On EFB vs AGM: going up from EFB to AGM is fine on a start-stop car as long as you set the technology channel to AGM. The one to avoid is going the other way, AGM down to EFB. So either Varta is a reasonable choice. The AGM gives you more margin for short trips and start-stop, the EFB is the straight like for like. I can't tell you first hand whether Carista does all four channels on the Superb, but VCDS can, and from what Binx says Car Scanner does it as well, which is a cheaper route. One more thing worth knowing: a 2022 battery going flat after only 48 hours parked isn't normal. Ask whoever fits it or sells it to test the old one, and if the new one also drops quickly when parked, look for something staying awake and draining it before blaming the battery.

I received a single reply (shown below) to my enquiry on the Skoda Fabia Owners Club Facebook group. This part was installed based on the PR number and region. I own a 2023 model with 1.0 , 70 kW engine. It’s in a cold climate, and the car is equipped with this. If one has access to the EKTA parts catalogue (as Breezy Pete does) and knows the car's VIN, it should be possible to check whether or not a particular Fabia Mk4 has the 'radiator louvre' unit. Otherwise, as the stated purpose of the unit's shutters (when closed) is to improve the Mk4's aerodynamics by preventing air from entering the wide grille in the lower part of the front bumper shining a torch through that grille when the car's motor is cold should confirm the presence or not of a shutter=unit. If the lower part of the radiator is clearly visible (as it is on my car) it definitely does NOT have the shutter-unit, but if the lower part of the radiator is not visible because there's a set of black plastic horizontal slats in the way, then it does.

i have litle more HP, gearbox is MQ281, nor 200. clutch depends on driving style. i dont drive it like a sports car, because Karoq it is not. i just simply have more power - torque when i need.. and sometimes i floor it on highway for few minutes, notnihg happened in a 1.5 year, only increased fuel and oil consumption.

Hi OccyVRS, Thanks for that it's great to hear from someone who has used the Powerflex adaprers before I commit to purchase. Is their any reason that you remove them each time? Worry they might fall out?

I have a 2019 65BHP MPI (normally aspirated) petrol Polo and a 2026 95BHP TSI, both with 5 speed manual gear boxes, neither have any problem on clutch release, the 2019 idles at ~ 760RPM but as soon as you press the clutch the revs increase to ~1100 and you can pull away without pressing the accelerator but it doesn't cause any problems if you do. The 2026 idles at ~ 1000RPM with no increase when you press the clutch but again no problem in pulling away without pressing the accelerator or if it is pressed, I had it back in the dealers as I thought the idling speed was and is unecessarily high but was told (presumably after check out) that this is normal operation?

Been quoted 20bhp extra and 50nm torque So would be 170bhp and 300nm Think that would be ok? I might not bother touching the exhaust now Just might change the turbo elbow and intake pipe and panel filter

Was debating both pieces, saves then splitting my factory grille. Am worried about the radar system Last thing I want is to have to calibrate

Hi all, I'm in a similar boat (literally 🤣) and have never been happy with how either of my Superb's have been on DCC. If there is anyone within a couple of hours of Hampshire/Surrey I'd be more than happy to pay for the time etc. Any help welcome. Thanks

I’m just mentioning it because Skoda officially requires it.

I changed the cover on my radar and have had the front bumper off a number of times without needing calibration. So long as you don’t touch the radar itself it’s no issue