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Ah I see. Thankyou.

No, I meant you just go to the service menu to find the software train. Then enter it into the MiB helper website. This will then guide you to the right maps and software versions.

Possibly. Wouldn't surprise me if I entered it wrong. Didn't think mine would have updates via the unit as its a 2016 .

Unusual that your VIN wasn’t recognised. Are you certain you got it correct? Perhaps 0 and o mixed up? Also you can find/ source the map updates: Press and hold the MENU button for about 3 to 10 seconds, then select Software update or System information / Service mode to view the installed SW train string Enter it here https://mib-helper.com This will give you latest software version and latest maps. Also has links to how to videos for updates. From personal experience, make sure your battery is in good condition and fully charged, and charger connected when updating MiB firmware. The maps update will carry on in the background as and when the car is on so that’s less crucial!

Only joined the page yesterday, mainly to get an answer to this question, as when I put my VIN in. It wasn't recognised. Followed your link and its worked as it should. So once my sd card arrives. I will be giving this a go. I emailed my local main dealer. But they were unable to help. Cheers

I finally worked out how to get the red led's when in Sport mode by setting the ambient lighting to Mode to link it to the driving profile. But, why oh why when you are on indiviual driving profille (which I use a lot) does it not use your individual colours but the brightest blinding white which makes the whole feature completly useless IMHO. Any why can't they still make switching in and out of daylight saving automatic! I have a 2025 L & K with the new logo in the steering wheel. Just grumping Tim

Yes, I think the two descriptions could be related, although they are not exactly the same. In my case, when we removed the left front wheel, we noticed that the hub was sitting a few millimetres further out than on the right-hand side. The hub was not seated correctly in the wheel carrier, and this appeared to leave some play in the brake caliper assembly. We replaced the hub and bearing with new parts, making sure the new hub was seated correctly, just like on the right-hand side. The play disappeared, and after a long test drive, the noise has not returned so far. So, the second explanation is consistent with what I found, but I cannot say for certain whether the original problem was caused by the bearing being pressed incorrectly, a problem with the old hub, or another issue with the fitment. The important thing is that replacing the hub and bearing resolved the symptoms, at least for now. Thanks for comparing the two explanations!

Good news ! English are not my primary language (i am self-taught by books) but can you compare the 2 posts? Is the 2nd the solution as the 1st says?

Yes you can jump releases. There is an information screen you can bring up that shows the current release. You are suppose to do that to check before and after.

Hi, Thanks for the tips! I’ve checked the battery, and it’s in good condition. I’ve now scheduled an appointment at a Skoda service center—partly because there’s an active recall for my model—and asked them to perform a targeted diagnostic regarding the errors mentioned above. I’m hoping to get more detailed results there than what you’d get from a standard, off-the-shelf diagnostic scanner (like one from Bosch, for example). The recall involves replacing a bolt on the steering gear; I assume that’s unrelated to the issues I’m experiencing—what do you think? I’d be grateful for any further ideas or advice! Best regards

Thank you for your reply On the part with th metal key, there is: >PA86-GF50< On the part with the 3 buttons: >PA-GF/TPE< On the part holding the battery: 01 563 802 and >PA6-GF/GK30<

There is information on here. If you search. The solenoid is knackered. Change it. About £50 new or cheaper for a pattern part. Very common issue.

Glow plugs on modern cars aren’t just to start the engine. They maintain the cylinder temp for a duration after initial start up and after moving off for some time.

“Never Stop Fighting and Believe in Yourselves,” Says New Champion Robert Virves “Never Stop Fighting and Believe in Yourselves,” Says New Champion Robert Virves The club of world champions who have won titles in Škoda rally cars has welcomed another name. Meet Robert Virves, who has won both the WRC2 and WRC2 Challenger titles*. He secured the victory of a lifetime at an especially fitting moment, in the very year that Škoda Motorsport celebrates 125 years. https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/lifestyle/never-stop-fighting-and-believe-in-yourselves-says-new-champion-robert-virves/

My 2019 Skoda Kamiq is fitted with a genuine Skoda factory harness that runs from the dash fuse box and BCM to the back of the car? Fitted by me. I have information that the correct trailer module is 5Q0907383L. I don’t want to purchase this and to then find that it cannot be coded due to incompatibility with the BCM , CANBUS etc. Note that i can find multiple listings of module 5Q0907383L but a 5Q0907383L being sold for a Fabia has different codes on it than a 5Q0907383L being sold for a different model. Very confusing.

Today I plugged in a flash drive containing maps from 23.06 (if I recall correctly, I currently have 24.12 installed) I wonder if the MIB3 system will actually update to older maps? I didn't think that was possible. I’ll keep you posted on any progress; my commute to work takes 30 minutes, so I’ll give it a few days.

Can you share this version? Thank you!

Hi . Can anyone tell me where the Auxiliary water pump is located on a 2018 Fabia petrol 1.0 TSi please? I've got an Fault code on OBD 11 P2B6300 telling me there is a problem with the Auxiliary water pump. I want to check the connections and replace the pump if necessary, but don't actually know where it is! Thanks in advance. Tim

Hi everyone, I think we have finally found the cause of the noise! When we removed the left front wheel again to replace the brake caliper, we noticed that the wheel hub was sitting a few millimetres out instead of being fully seated in the wheel carrier. This seemed to affect the position of the brake caliper, leaving some play in the assembly. We removed the right front wheel to compare both sides. On the right-hand side, the hub was seated correctly in the carrier, with no gap. We then bought a new wheel hub and bearing and had them fitted by a machine shop. The new hub seated fully in the carrier, just like the one on the right-hand side. The play in the brake caliper assembly also disappeared. After the repair, I drove the car for quite a long distance, and so far, the noise has completely disappeared. My suspicion is that the old hub was not seated correctly, affecting the position of the brake disc relative to the caliper and causing intermittent rubbing or vibration while driving. This would explain why the noise stopped as soon as I lightly applied the brakes and changed when I turned the steering wheel. Before finding this, I had already replaced the front brake discs, pads, caliper pistons and wheel bearings, but none of these repairs had solved the problem. The wheel carrier itself is the only major component on that side that has not been replaced. I'm sharing this in case it helps anyone else experiencing a similar intermittent metallic scraping noise. Thanks to everyone who offered suggestions and advice!

HI all, Hoping someone can shed some light as I'm desperately out of my depth. My car is a 2004 Skoda Octavia 1.9 TDi 110 81kw asv 1u5. After a head gasket replacement and timing belt change, I'm trying to set the timing using the graph in VCDS. No matter what I do with the pump, the graph will only show 38 and on the bottom it says "timing within spec: slightly retarded. Nothing I do changes that. I have adjusted the pump to retarded where it won't start and advanced where it clatters. I've tried in between those points but can't change that graph from 38. The car drives well enough but has some slight hesitation under 2000rpm but fine after that. Idle is a horrible, feels like the engine wants to shake itself out. I believe my G81 fuel temp sensor is lazy so I'll be changing that when the triangle bolt tool arrives. I had the injectors refurbed. I've tested the needle lift wire and get a resistance reading of 117 so that's fine from what I've read. I have a very low injection quantity reading which bounces from 0 to under 2. I tried changing the adaptation number but that didn't make much difference. When I first looked it was set to 32668. I've read the iq number should be between 3 & 5 and the "hammer mod" may be required? I've wondered if I'm a tooth out on the timing, but AI says the car wouldn't run if it was a tooth out. Any ideas on where to look and what to check would be massively appreciated. Cheers

Hi, I've had a Scala SEL 1.5 DSG from new (2025), not long after having it I started to little noises when moving off from a standstill. At first it sounded like wheelspin and nothing major. The dealership looked and said they couldn't find anything wrong or hear any noises. A few months later the noises had progressed to a noticeable, but intermittent, jerk when moving off from stationary, again the garage looked and said no fault found. Later again the jerk was then appearing not just on moving off but when coming to a stop as well (but still intermittent) and the noises were getting louder, and of note if I switched to manual and did the gears there wasn't a problem. The garage had a look and again no fault found but when I played back some dashcam footage where the noise could be heard the technician said it could be the mechatronics unit. So it was booked in for a diagnostic and adaptation reset, that was was done and for 2 weeks the car was fine. The issues re-appeared after a couple of weeks but when I've spoken to the garage they refused to do anything other than a diagnostic the fact that the adaptation reset had fixed the issue for 2 weeks didn't count for anything, didn't narrow it down or affect the diagnostic in any way. After the next diagnostic they said they could hear the noises now but it was characteristic of the car. Fast forward a few more months and during a trip to France and it got to the point were I was having jerky take offs/stops more than not, very loud bangs when moving off and a new fault starting to appear in that while moving at low speed the car would feel like its about to stall (again intermittent). What I then found as well that when switching to manual and doing the gears myself I was now getting noises if not jerks when changing between first and second and this was consistent with every gear change. I went back to the dealership and did a test drive with a technician who listened to the noises particularly in manual and said it sounded like chatter in the gears and they'd need to look at it. So it was booked in again but when it went in they had a second technician (the master technician) look at it and they've said no fault found chatter in first and second is normal for a car. I then took it to a second dealership who didn't look at it, they took it for a drive and said the noises are normal (no jerks on the test drive) and said there was no point in them looking any further. I'm at a loss now on what to do, I can't accept that jerks when moving off/stopping or chatter between gears are normal behaviour for a car and the noises keep developing and getting louder which to me if that were "characteristic of a vehicle" they would have been there from day one and they wouldn't be intermittent or change over time. I've driven many vehicles in relation to work including, skoda's audi's bmw, vw, ford and mercedes to name a few and not one of them has made noises or behaved like this. Has anyone else had similar experiences or issues and how've they gone about getting them fixed?

You might find that a 195/55R16 6Jx16 ET45 also fits, so it's worth trying one if that's the size that's on the car. As you can see in the first chart below, the outside diameter of the 185/65R15 and 195/55R16 tyres is almost identical. As you can see in the second chart below, a 195/55R16 fitted to a 6J rim has an actual inflated width that is 12mm more than a 185/65R15 fitted to a 5.5J rim. Bear in mind that the "185" and "195" that you see on the tyres' sidewalls are simply the nominal sizes, whereas the actual inflated width of a tyre always depends on the width of the rim to which it is fitted. As you can see in the third chart below, the rim for the 195/55R16 has 5mm more offset than the rim for the 185/65R15. This might help the tool kit to sink 5mm down into the spare wheel well, compared to if the offsets were the same. If so, the top of the tool kit will only be 1mm higher with the 195/55R16 6Jx16 ET45 wheel fitted compared to the 185/65R15 5.5Jx15 ET40 wheel. Outside diameter of tyre 185/65R15 621.5mm 195/55R16 620.9mm Actual inflated width of tyre (measured from sidewall to sidewall, at the widest point) 185/65R15 fitted to 5.5J rim 189mm 195/55R16 fitted to 6J rim 201mm Offset of the rim 185/65R15 ET40 195/55R16 ET45

Double quotation marks and english written almost perfectly which means it's not my text. This was 100% mine: I have paid for ECU programme, i went another time for an update, another time for damaged ECU and install a used, another time to replace that one and install another unit which also paid extra for a whole new programme. Many aftermarket filters and many tries to bring extra fresh-air inside,extra work on the air filter box. Custom exhaust from A to Z,new metallic catalyst converter which i removed after some year and paid for a stock one,extra money for the pipes because from the lambda sensor and after were 3mm wider and not 100% proper bend so i had to replace them (from both of these i lost power in low-medium rpm), extra money for better muffler than the stock (i have changed 3 all these years). Extra money for aftermarket suspension,strut brace,anti-roll bar etc. If i was a guy who wanted a car just to move in a City normally i wouldn't involved in any modification because the cost would be enormous and the gain very small, does not worth the money and the time. My father had a reasoning in his car: «Leave it as is» and compared to me he saved lot of money and had far more quiet days with no worries than me.

Isn't there a part number visible on the surface the key flips closed onto?

My original 3 button keyfob has stopped working despite putting in a new battery. None of the 3 buttons work. I see on Aliexpress that they sell cheap Superb keyfob replacements and I want to give it a try and order one, but I need to know the part of the thing. Can anybody tell me the part number of this keyfob? :-)