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^^^ Exactly. Even with Skoda dealerships, some used to give you a FREE Change of oil. or a voucher to come in after 1,000 miles and have an Oil & Filter change and an inspection. I have not seen any doing that since about 2012 when SERVICE BOOKS stopped being put in the car at Hand Over. People might well want to change oil in cars earlier than annually, but as the first oil change. That is good oil filled at the factory. It has a job to do and IMO best leave it doing that job. Check the oil regularly though. From getting the new car home. Know where the oil is at Stone cold and compare to where when checked as per the Manufacturers guidelines/ @ Normal Operating temperature after a few minutes parked on the flat.

Hello, I'm on MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0245T with GEM3.5 and want to activate carplay via toolbox, but i can't figure out, if i need to/should upgrade the firmware first. If that is the case, i would like the 480 version.

I used https://youtu.be/4I5Lnwc1w5c?is=dtFPT81Ak71vbc4n

Thank you for your help and comments.

Never had a new car but friends have. A few dealers like mitsubishi etc change oil and filter at around 1000-2500 miles on brand new cars then revert to standard service intervals. Not sure about Skoda. Something to do with a run in period to remove any debris etc from new engine . Alasdair

I am tempted to use VW 504 when my brand new Karoq (sept 2026 manufactured) reaches 5000km, as I have 16L left in the dunk from my last Fabia change (I buy dunks of 20L VW 504 for changing to Fabia every 8000km). My worry is that there is void guarantee risk since if something happens to the car they may be for sure a process to check that does not have VW 508 oil in? The oil filter will replace exactly the original one.

For the non-maxidot version, I'm pretty sure it's: 03 - byte 16, bit 2 17 - byte 2, bit 0 There will be no 4C module and the reset can either be done with VCDS or a physical switch.

I may be wrong but read that if an auto ecu is used it looks for live data from auto box. As yours is a manual it sounds like its dropping into limp mode when it doesnt recieve it. I found this on AI which I generally dont trust but it makes a bit of sense. Well above my expertise level though. The security login to ecu may help?? On the Skoda Fabia Mk1 1.4 (Magneti Marelli 4LV / 4MV ECU), you cannot simply recode an automatic engine ECU to manual via standard software coding (like VCDS / VAG-COM). The ECU software is flash-locked by the factory specifically to the transmission type it was built for, causing it to reject manual transmission coding strings natively. [1, 2, 3] To fix this and stop the ECU from looking for the missing Transmission Control Module (TCM), choose one of the following paths: 1. Flash the ECU Firmware (EEPROM/Flash Edit) The factory automatic dataset does not contain the manual maps/blocks. To override this, a chiptuning or ECU cloning specialist must read the ECU on a bench using a bootloader or OBD tool (such as FoxFlash or KESS) and write a full flash and EEPROM backup file from a factory manual car with the exact same engine code (e.g., AUA, BBY, BBZ). [1, 2, 3] Note: Reflashing the ECU will alter the internal immobilizer data, meaning you will also need an Immobilizer Off (Immo Off) patch or to manually adapt the keys/cluster. [1, 2] 2. Swap to a Factory Manual ECU The simplest physical workaround is to source a used Magneti Marelli ECU pulled directly from a donor manual car. Ensure the VAG part number matches your engine variant. You will need to extract the PIN code from the replacement ECU to align it to your instrument cluster and keys, or have it delivered with the immobilizer disabled. [1, 2, 3] 3. Check the CAN Gateway & Interlocking Modules If you have already altered the ECU code at a hardware level but your coding is still rejected, other modules are likely blocking the change. VAG ECUs look at the CAN Gateway during coding verification. [1] Recode Module 19 (CAN Gateway): Open the CAN Gateway profile, look at the installation list, and uncheck/remove the Automatic Transmission (Module 02). Clear Fault Codes First: The ECU will refuse a coding adaptation if active "No Communication with TCM" codes are locked into other systems. Erase fault codes completely in ABS (03) and Instruments (17) before attempting to change the engine coding. [1, 2] Login Code Requirement: Some Marelli 4LV units require a security login string (such as 01283 or 11463) under Login - 11 before they unlock the Coding - 07 permission window. [1, 2] Alasdair

I've taken to just replacing the rubbers in the wipers because I cannot find the right ones. I've tried Bosch and other brands but none of the fittings work on the Enyak. It is supposed to be one of the UK's best selling EVs, so you would have hoped that someone will have made wipers that fit!

Currently there are five UK-marketed Fabia Mk4 models SE Edition Design Edition SE L Edition Monte Carlo Edition 130 and (assuming Skoda's data on the online Standard Equipment data are correct) SE Edition and Design Edition models do NOT have the "Hill Hold Control" (HHC) driver assistance feature, whereas SE L Edition, Monte Carlo Edition and 130 models do have it. HHC is mentioned in the Driver Assist systems/Braking and stabilising systems/Overview section of my late-2023-built Fabia SE L model's online Owner's Manual (and in later Fabia Mk4 Manuals) Hill Hold Control (HHC) The HHC system helps with hill starts by braking the vehicle for approximately 2 seconds after the brake pedal is released. Operating conditions The gradient is at least 5 %. The driver's door is closed. I don't know if my car actually has the HHC assist feature and - as my Fabia has DSG transmission and my two working feet can simultaneously operate its two foot-pedals - I've no real need for HHC. My last motorhome (Fiat-Ducato-based, left-hand-drive, 3500kg weight with manual transmission and a handbrake designed for people with a long left am and gorilla muscles) had a hill-hold system and that was really helpful starting from rest on a steep hill. There is some discussion on the OBDeleven forum about activating HHC on Fabia Mk4 cars that do not have HHC as part of its standard specification. I don't know if it can be done on your 2025 car, but you could explore that possibility if you really like the idea of having HHC.

On hot ambient temperature misfires are more than in cold mornings. For example 2 days before i had 129 misfires on cylinder 4 for 1000 rpm on idle speed. On next day with same conditions i had no misfires. What can be the issue, any temperature sensor, trottle valve?

Good morning, Thank you so much for the above I will start ordering parts 😁. Can I ask did you change to the alloy hubs etc and if so any best practice? I can see that the wheel bearing mounts different and the caliper may need some work but unsure. I figure if I am in there I may as well do everything at the same time subframe, wishbones, ARB, Shocks springs and hubs. Might do the rear bits whilst I am there also what do you think?

Hi Derek. This is the display i have (digital cockpit) also no hill start assist with this model.

Wheel is on left side, correct, not UK. Not all cars are involved. Some of them which have bolts of some series. VAG dont produce these bolts. Original bolts are made in some steelworks in India. Different factories, different versions, some of them were low quality. Same bolts are used on other parts of suspension, engine mounts, etc.

You may have recalled an earlier part of the conversation where I mentioned about an ongoing issues with the ECU (marriage), what I forgot to mention is this: On quite a number of occasions whilst driving and attempting to squeeze some engine revs, the computer would not allow me to rev pass 3000 rpm, it would slap the rev counter back to 0 and when I attempted to try to maintain that figure, it would kill the rev counter all together, strange behaviour that. I would have to switch off the car and allow things to reset. I Mentioned this because you had said that the immobilizer data was copied etc etc, I'm thinking with firmness that the marriage is not rock solid, it's so bad that the car idles weak, runs very rich which in turn us fouling my spark plugs amongst many other performance /normalcy issues,so I'm starting with the ECU kit, if the flash is more attainable that would be even more awesome, we shall see

Engine Software Upgrades (ECU Remaps) If you are looking to increase power, torque, or throttle response, specialized automotive tuning companies offer OBD-port or bench-flashed software upgrades: Revo Stage 1 Software: Available for various Fabia Mk1 engine variants (such as the 1.9 TDI PD), safely increasing horsepower and torque while retaining factory safety mechanisms. It can include switchable modes (via an SPS device). [1, 2] Celtic Tuning / Awesome GTI Remaps: Custom-developed rolling-road or OBD remaps are available for engines like the 1.9 TDI (e.g., 100 bhp, 115 bhp, or the vRS 130 bhp models), optimizing torque curves and fuel efficiency. [1, 2, 3] Diagnostic and Module Software VCDS / VAG-COM: If you want to update or modify module coding, clear fault codes, or adapt keys (such as remote central locking keys), you use diagnostic software like VCDS (Ross-Tech) via a KKL/OBD-II cable rather than a generic CAN-bus reader, as the Mk1 Fabia uses older VAG diagnostic protocols. [1, 2] Škoda Auto a.s. Škoda Software Updates (ICE/PHEV) OTA software update campaigns for Škoda models (Fabia, Scala, Octavia, Superb, Kamiq, Karoq, Kodiaq) target Infotainment and Online Communication Unit (OCU) sys... BRISKODA OBD - Skoda Fabia Mk1 (1999-2007) Mar 27, 2014 — izzy040404 Finding my way On 27/03/2014 at 09:26, mannyo said: MK1 Fabia is not Canbus unlike the MK5 golf, if the reader you have only reads canbus then it wil... Skoda UK Škoda Software Updates - Skoda UK What is a software update? Your vehicle is equipped with embedded software that is fully integrated into its systems. Software Updates ensure that the software ... Only Revo REVO Stage 1 Software for a SKODA Fabia MK1 (2000 - 2007) 1.9 PD | Only REVO Vehicle: SKODA Fabia MK1 1.9 PD (2000–2007) Stock Specs: Power 105ps, Torque 184lbft REVO Stage 1 Software: Power 135ps to 145ps, Torque 214lbft to 234lbft (dep... Only Revo REVO Stage 1 Software for a SKODA Fabia MK1 (2000 In addition this software works with the REVO SPS (sold seperately), SPS Modes for this software: Stock and 1 performance mode - more info · Locate a Dealer Lea... Awesome GTI Shop By Car - Skoda - Fabia Mk1 (6Y) - Remaps and Software If you purchase your software via finance you will be purchasing a voucher to be redeemed in store. Awesome TDI Remap for the 1.9TDI 115bhp Engine.This remappin... YouTube·ZERVENS 1m Key Adaptation for Skoda Fabia MK1 (6Y) Celtic Tuning Skoda Fabia (6Y) 1999-2007 1.9 TDI VRS 130 bhp Stage 1 tuning The 1.9 TDi 130bhp utilises a mixture of Honeywell & Garrett Turbo chargers depending on application. All the 130? s are fitted with side mounted intercoolers w... Hello there alasdair your info is right in the money: My research did lead me to eBay motors, in addition it's funny that you should mention a possible repair for my CC unit, i thought about that, will do an Ai search and see what YouTube offers, if it works out we may very well have struck goal for the fabia community. Om my unit the recirculation button on the left in the pic you unloaded flickers on and off, most of the time I get nothing, once that remains off outside air comes into the car along with other odors like vehicle exhaust for e.g, also with this, the cabin does not cool as it's suppose to and it does not matter how many times I press that button alasdair, I get nothing. I'm currently checking a lady here at home that I came into contact with almost 2 yeas ago, she has a fabia, appears to be abandoned by now so will see where her head space is and proceed accordingly.

Do you know what is the bad thing? Another OEM battery was fitted this time because the first one died before the 3rd year 🤣 On my previous Skodas, batteries had died between 3rd and 5th years, and dealer installed aftermarket brands. I guess that the car warranty in the first 3 years come from Skoda and the last 2 - from the local dealer.

Where do I get this error log,

Great advice from Steve, I use this method in my car. When you open 'media sources' you should see something like 'USB Partition 1 or 2' depending on which C socket your USB is plugged into. Click on that, and your music folders will be revealed. When you create music folders / playlists, be sure to copy them directly to the USB root on your PC, not to any sub folders.

I've found on a rolling road (not a rolling-road) you can use it kind of well, but it takes so much concentration to lift off early and roll, because as soon as the normal car in front lifts-off, they slow down quicker and you have to tap the brake to let the clutch back out. And, like you both say, lift off without coasting and you use no fuel as the drivetrain keeps the engine turning over, lift off with coasting and you're using fuel to keep the engine idling. I thought there'd be some improvement due to the trade-off between emissions and inertia but agree in real world scenario, mode hasn't made a difference. In fact, I've done the journey from my in-laws which is 80 miles of single-lane A-road and motorway and can get the same result in Sport Mode as Eco. For me, its down to the driver not the car.

Ok so you probably have it a bit easier than the Superb guys. The big thing with the LCAs is that the key variant is track width of the car - determined by how long the width-section of the arms are and depending on a number of things the main one being which version of the mqb chassis you have. Despite the whole MQB is MQB - it isn't. There's MQB A0 (eg polo/fabia), MQB A1 (Golf/Octy) and MQB-B (Superb/Passat). Bigger the chassis, generally the wider the track width but there are variations. For example, Audi RS3 is MQB-A1 but understandably has a wide track. The front track width of the Golf is 1541mm. The Octavia is 1535mm so 6mm across the car which is nothing. Superb is 1584mm. So the Superpro TRC1070 which is deemed as applicable to anything coming out of Germany is meant for MQB-A1. Fine for yours and will do well (don't bother with TRC1071 which gives increased caster - its a pub-quoting improvement rather than anything that's going to get you anywhere if you're not doing things like track days and corner balancing). But stick the TRC1070 on a Superb and it pulls the bottom of the wheels in giving you positive caster, unable to get a decent 4wa and putting strains on other components. I have TT arms on mine. The Delphi version is TC4442/TC4443 but they weren't in stock so I went for KYB which are KSC4260/KSC4261. Its odd as the Delphi is quoted as being for the Passat but the KYB aren't. Tbh, they seem exactly the same. It definitely feels nice and solid and I think that's because of the solid rear bush. The old ones didn't look bad coming off but there is definitely a more solid feel to it. Weight wise, 2% of SweetFA in the grand scheme of things but either marginal gains matter to you or they don't. Alu arms were £75 each, but with £35 shipping from Spareto in Estonia so £180. It said DHL would handle shipping and duty but what that means, is they'll pay it so they can pass through customs and deliver and then hit you with the re-charge. That was an unforeseen extra £53 so c.£230 in all. You can avoid a lot of that by ordering from somewhere in the UK. In fact: Link for Delphi Front Right on ebay Link for Delphi Front Left on ebay As for subframe, they all seem the same. In fact, they're right across the Passat range right down to the 1.4, so I was thinking about getting a pre-loved one from ebay, and as I have a redundant Racingline dogbone mount insert for a certain type of dogbone mount, I might as well go for one that has the same type (they differ by engine code - I found that out the hard way but I posted the list so you can enjoy). So what do you get? The alu one is lighter naturally but stiffer as its more solid - the steel one is stamped steel sheeting so it has more flex in it. Will we notice? Probably not without telemetry. As @OccyVRS says, if you're going to do it, you might as well save a load of hassle and get the front anti-roll bar done too as it sits above the subframe which needs to be dropped to change the arb. And this will absolutely throw out the alignment so queue up one of those for shortly after too. Front droplinks don't need to be changed unless you switch to coilovers or shocks where the mounting point is in a lower position than standard parts. But your suspension is only as good as its weakest parts so...why not. They're straightforward to change (note you need an M6 triple square) and if they replacements are adjustable you can really dial out any pre-load on the anti-rollbar (if, as said before, the mounting point on the shock is lower and putting torsion on the arb). I'd absolutely advise getting a balljoint splitter if you don't have one too. The lower balljoints are a bugger to get out with a mallet! I think that's everything I can think of for now. Oh, and make sure the dogbone bolts go into the DSG casing straight - its a very bad day to realise you've crossed and it needs helicoiling.

@Grimlock did you manage to disable the TSR ? I’ve activated a trial 1 month available in the shop and I also am missing the option to disable it with an on/off toggle in the „Assistants” menu. If it’s not possible to disable it then I’m not sure I want to purchase the full version…

Probably like painting the Forth Bridge. I see there is an outbreak of Magic stations which my mib2 hasn't got but back home those are out of bounds. Magic may be in there but being away I havent tried and I've never done a mib2 high logo bulk update. We have the ability to in fill logos which mib3 people were not trusted with... can't be having users hacking mib3... might put those 5,000 Caraid programmers out of a job. Heaven forbid.

Just updated the Golf in the UK, new logos for the BBC, Kiss stations, they're missing the Xmas stations (seasonal anyway) and Track Radio on London 2, Capital Xtra and LBC on FM but not DAB which is weird.

Ages ago on this thread I mentioned that I am aspiring to OEM or OEM+ look for my Caddy. At that time, the obtrusively blue throttle body hose was pointed-out as an obvious departure from this look. I already had this on my to do list when it was suggested, but an under-bonnet hose which was doing its job perfectly well has struggled to make its way to the top of the list. This changed when I had the throttle body off a couple of times in the process of investigating the intermittent engine fault (see later), and I realised that re-fitting a part which I wanted to replace made little sense. Having the blue hose off also made it very straightforward to check the diameters of the two ends, to make sure I ordered an appropriate replacement. That’s better 😊 Reliability issues have been blighting my enjoyment of the Caddy for a few years. I like to think I am a competent problem-solver, but a lot of my attention has been devoted to my SEAT Ibiza, so whilst I have implemented a couple of fixes on the Caddy, I have not spent the time to get to the root cause of the issues. I am lucky in that I never have to rely on the Caddy, so I just have not taken it out very often. This is a shame, and needed to be sorted. The symptoms were that it started on the ‘button’ every time, even after sitting for weeks, and the engine ran beautifully, until it stopped. No misfire, no poor running, it just stopped. Sometimes it would fire-up again immediately, and other times it would not fire at all. How long it would run for, and how long it would refuse to run for, both appeared to be completely random. Sometimes it was seconds, and sometimes days. I do hate intermittent faults! These symptoms are similar to what I saw when the ECU failed previously, although with that there was a definite decline in reliability, so as the problems became more common it became easier to diagnose the fault. Fuel supply issues have also plagued this car, both with the fuel pump and the control of it, and even though the old adage ‘if it spits and farts it’s fuel, if it stops dead it’s electrical’ is well-proven, I still could not quite put aside my suspicions that I was seeing more of the same. With this in mind, I started by connecting my tell-tale lead to the fuel pump… … and a pressure gauge into the fuel supply line. With those in place it was a simple case of running the engine and waiting for it to cut-out. Except it ran perfectly. I tried several times, for about twenty minutes each time, and it refused to fail. I did notice that the fuel pressure is slightly lower than I was expecting, at 2.8bar, but that pressure was steady and was held after the engine was switched-off, so I ruled-out a pump issue. I will swap the FPR for a 4bar one, but 2.8bar should be plenty for the Caddy’s state of tune, and certainly would not cause the symptoms I was seeing. My ODBII Bluetooth dongle point blank refused to scan the Caddy for fault codes, meaning that I had to dig-out my trusty diagnostic laptop. For some reason the dongle wanted a VIN in a format that the Caddy simply does not have, whereas the laptop software allows you to try all addresses and scan any modules which respond, and also lets you edit a txt file to add specific vehicles to the options list. This is very handy for modified cars. Scanning the Caddy gave me the following food for thought: Ignoring the last item regarding the message from the ABS controller, which is irrelevant, the others make interesting reading, although it took me a while to figure them out. The ECU’s connection to each of the listed components controls them via individual switched earth outputs, and the code 29-10 tells me that a problem with the wiring loom is the most likely culprit. This is particularly interesting because whilst all of these circuits connect to the ECU, they are not all in the same loom at any point. The ME3.8 ECU in the Caddy has two separate wiring connectors, even though the ElsaWin current flow diagrams represent both connectors in the combined T80. One of the ECU connectors, with pins 1-52, goes to the vehicle-side loom. This includes the fuel pump relay and charcoal cannister purge valve connections, on adjacent pins. The other connector, with pins 53-80, goes to the engine loom. This includes the connections to each of the injectors, and the N75 valve, all of which are adjacent to each other in the ECU plug. No wonder I have struggled to diagnose this, it is looking like two separate intermittent faults. I already have an imperfect mitigation in place for the fuel pump relay / purge valve short circuit, in the form of the bypass switch I fitted previously. That could cause the purge valve to open unnecessarily, but this will not cause the engine to cut-out. I can afford to leave the permanent fix of this until the remedy is in place for the engine loom fault. I do not understand why the injector and N75 valve controls shorting to each other and/or or to earth would cause the engine to stop abruptly without any sign of rough-running or mis-fire, but nonetheless it is clear that it is not going to be helpful, and needs to be sorted. The involvement of the N75 boost control valve also helps to explain the fact that the fault did not appear when the engine was idling on the driveway, as no boost => no action for the N75 valve. There are two obvious options for the engine loom fix, which are a) locate the damaged section of loom and make repairs, or b) replace the whole engine loom. I have a few 1.8T engine looms, but they vary by engine code, and I do not have one for the AGU engine in the Caddy. I could modify a loom to make it work, but that is not a quick task. I will make a custom engine loom for it at some point, but now is not the right time. That leaves me repairing the current loom. If the VCDS log is pointing me in the right direction, the faults are located at or close to the ECU connectors, so that was where I started. Once I had some of the convoluted sleeve and wrapping tape removed from the loom, it revealed some loose ends of cable, and some wires which had three or four solder joins within about 300mm. Neither of these things necessarily contribute to the problem at hand, but they do present unnecessary risks for future failures. While I had my head in the loom I figured I may as well do a proper job, so I exposed more of the engine bay wiring until I got to this. The vehicle loom ECU connector itself was in a sorry state. It had become brittle, and snapped in two locations when I unplugged it. I had recently bought a genuine new replacement connector, which was handy. The photo below shows the old connector, and I have included it to show the number of cut-off ends of cables, and I have arranged all of the other unused wires off towards the bottom of the picture just to show how many of them there were. One of the connections which I got rid of was that for the carbon cannister purge valve. I had been planning on deleting the carbon cannister before the purge valve made an appearance on the VCDS fault scan, and there will never be a better opportunity. Whilst the loom was unwrapped it was very easy to remove any trace of the wiring to this valve. I extended the tank breather hose to the front corner of the inner wing, where I will add a rollover valve. When I had finished rationalising and tidying the connections in the loom, I bound it temporarily with cable ties, before plugging it all back in. The new and newly sparse ECU vehicle loom connector can be seen at the bottom left of this picture. Before attempting to start the engine, I had one more long overdue task to do. I had noticed that the hose between the induction pipe and the MAF was split, so I had ordered a 70mm silicone 45deg elbow and a Ramair cone air filter, plus an alloy joiner to go between them. Ideally I would like an OEM-look airbox, and I had hoped that a Golf mk4 GTI airbox might fit, but the available space in the Caddy is an awkward shape. At least I got rid of a polished alloy pipe in favour of a black silicone hose. It was a great relief when the engine burst keenly back into life on the first turn of the key, and with no indications on the dash that I had made any mistakes with the wiring. I did not have the time for a long test drive, but I did a couple of laps round the block, and made a point of deploying some boost (sorry neighbours) with no signs of it cutting-out. The proper test drive will be a nervous time.