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I've been using the wheel alignment specialist on Leeds Road in Huddersfield, for years. I took my Superb Greenline Estate to him just after I'd bought it and had 4x new Goodyear eco tyres fitted. He had to loosen the front subframe to get a best-in-the-circumstances alignment, due to the previous owner crashing it. He wasn't able to get the front alignment spot-on, was able to get it fairly well aligned. 34,000 miles later and the Goodyear tyres still had about 4mm left on them. With them wearing more on the inside edge, but nothing as drastic as the photos in this thread. A nail in the tyre at a funny angle this week resulted in me getting 2x new Hankook Ventus Prime 4's for the front. Otherwise, there's a chance the front Goodyears would have lasted 40,000 miles.

Topic moved to Insurance & Legal Issues

Random times, not after fueling, have changed OEM fuel cap. Could be N80 valve but surely it would be stuck open or shut, not intermittent!? Thanks again

You're replying to a fourteen year old post and the poster hasn't been on in nearly two years. Topic locked 🔐

The visitor shouldn't have to work out what you actually do, how long a repair is likely to take, or what happens if you can't fix it. A clear list of services, realistic turnaround times and a straightforward explanation of the “no fix, no fee” policy would probably inspire more confidence than lots of marketing language. I'd definitely fix the page title as well. “Home -” looks like an unfinished template and doesn't exactly give a professional impression when someone has several tabs open.

Hi and welcome.

Thank you both. Yeah, I don't do long journeys really. Maybe 3 or 4 times a month. I'll try BP/Shell as we don't have Gulf or Esso here anymore.

Hello all! Any solution to recover the e-Management option back on the latest firmware? I also have the “Reduced charging current” function ON after the update, because before doing it it took like 4.5h to fully charge the battery (220V, home socket) and now it takes 8h50m 😵. And the only way to disable/enable this function was in the e-Management screen which is unavaible now, after the update.

Ok so I decided to bleed the clutch as a slight possibility and because I was doing the brakes anyway. It seems that my clunking has gone. Fluid looked pretty s***ty when I first began to flush.

Red ring is the pivot that often seized. Pink arrows show the movement which should be free and easy. Green arrows shows the adjuster which Alasdair mentioned.

You might be able to free it up if you take that drum off, disconnect cable from that plate then rotate it back and forth to break corrosion. Add a few drops of oil to the pivot/rivet, between the plates. Loosening the cable adjustment in the cabin by quite a lot is a big help when trying to remove drum. Retighten when work is done.

How can I adjust or repair it? What needs to be replaced?

The top end pivot will be seized on the plate of steel in the drum that the handbrake cable attaches to.

My Audi A4 is successfully updated. Cheers

Mine does the same. The high idle followed by fans on after stopping are a failed regen. When I notice high revs I try to continue driving and give it for a good blast down the road at revs above 2500 for about 20 mins and it should complete the regen till next time. Mine is due to shorter runs than I used to do. Alasdair

The main foot brake works fine. The braking force from the foot brake is OK.

On the MK1 fabia which I am sure will be the same or similar on yours there are slider wedges that automatically adjust in rear drums. They can seize or wear out. They have a gripped surface on one side and are held in place with a small spring. It could also be a failing brake cylinder or leaking cylinder and contaminated shoes or a sticking handbrake cable on the poor side. If the handbrake is high it would point to the adjuster not working. Either way they will need to be taken apart to check. Alasdair

Probably have special inbuilt trackers fitted as well.

Sorry, (incredibly) late reply. No, I never got any error code.

I went for a vehicle inspection. It turns out that the handbrake isn’t working properly. The left rear brake is very weak, while the right one is fine. Is it possible to adjust just the faulty one? How can I do that? The handbrake engages too high. I don’t want to adjust it with the screw inside the car because that would tighten the right drum too much. Help :)

It can happen with nearly new Diesels. Yours has likely had the VW Emissions Fix applied. New Engime Management Software and a Flow Device fitted to the Air Intake. Regens are just as required, your diesel or premium diesel is all that is needed. You could have the Ash Content of the DPF checked. But you are not getting a Clogged Warning, why worry? PS. Maybe go to a Gulf Filling Station & fill the tank with EvoUltra which is HVO and give the car an Italian Tuneup once the engine up to temp. (Not cheap though, 203.9 pence a litre here), or fill up with BP or ESSO even Shell Premium Diesel.

Thank Goodness that Reform UK members, officials and Elected Politicians vehicles movements by road can be tracked.

@Practicaldriver What car has your son got? Some Companies are quoting ridiculous prices to cover a BEV. Some like Aviva might just want out of insuring BEV,s of certain makes. Very expensive to repair and parts difficult to get, and ridiculously fast. . I have Insured my BEV for half i paid last year with Admiral, and they wanted hundreds more this year compared to last. 20 years NCD last Year, 21 years now. They just do 9 Years, Now covered and Mirrored for my Pickup.

Yes, I watch them occasionally.

Thanks Routemaster, Honestly that just strengthens my feeling to get shot of the car. I don't have time to be mucking about taking it to the dealer and back all the time. Anyway the dealer here is useless.