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@joeninho Did the dealer fix the problem? If so, what was the cause?

Found the fuse and replaced it. Worked fine for about 40 mins then reverted back to its tricks again. Looks like a dealership visit for a check on the system.

Does your trailer yacht uses water ballast? Consider using my idea of a rigid bar extension for launching and recovery - so much easier than using a rope, which of course is only useful for recovery.

Re. your question about checking transmission temperature, there may be a setting in the Maxidot MFD for that - if not a setting specifically for transmission, there definitely is one for engine oil temp.

There is a post open on this recently but no one seems to be answering my query so apologies for another post on same subject... When I press the button to open the boot from the keyfob, it opens about 6" then closes again. If I open using the button on the boot, it opens the same distance but just sits there. When I manually push it up from this position, there is a certain amount of resistance and when open fully and I press the button on the boot to close it ,bleeps about 6 times and does nothing. Are there likely to be any fault codes that would indicate what the issue may be? I can`t think it would be a break in a wire as I`m guessing it wouldn`t open at all. If it were a faulty strut , how would you ascertain which one? or is it likely both could be faulty? Or indeed could it be something else entirely?

Mine stopped working. Eventually I discovered that I had switched off the ESC control, by pressing the button, which is behind the gear lever. No LED shows if it on or off. I turned it back on by entering the big service screen, and locating the menu.

Thanks to all , ive got it booked in so i will reply on here when i find out what it was. (The garage suggested centre prop bearing was a common fault.) Alan

Yesterday I received a new update that I suspect is to fix the repeated updates problem, after two fails to download I left it installing overnight.

6:08 Happened to me also in one side by a sloppy mechanic 22:14 I have removed the whole thing due to dirt-moisture,you can save some weight this way 23:21 You can make a cleaning with a/c spray.In the past i asked for a thoroughly evaporator-blower cleaning from a a/c specialist (he removed the cover) 23:51 You can find info about this in my attachments,was bringing hot air from the intake cover inside the air filter box to help the engine at cold starts in Winter. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499328-how-much-time-do-you-warm-up-your-felicia/page/19/#findComment-5638614 https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499328-how-much-time-do-you-warm-up-your-felicia/page/18/ Now i use that hose for different purpose: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/477677-skoda-felica-13-what-kind-of-air-filter-do-you-use/

So clean now. Its the steering rack or steering gear that is leaking not the engine. Amazing i had the low level light on the engine oil at the same time as i saw the leakage under the car. so two problem in one go. Anyone have any good guides on how to change the steering gear? Guess youtube have plenty. Thanks help all

New here just bought my first skoda

Hopefully the fault codes point to an easy fix.

Yeah this one's not huge as I think it's paired with the fiat 500x. Those mini countryman are definitely bigger and uglier

Hello. I'm have plans to install a subwoofer in my superb this weekend and wonder if anyone has find a good spot to go through the firewall for the positive cable, preferably om the driver side (LHD) as I plan to put the RCA cables on the passenger side as I already have a camera cable there

A photo would also help...

Hi, It would help if you could tell us the model of Yeti you have - e.g. engine size petrol/diesel, manual/auto gearbox, front/all wheel drive. There are many permutations, so it's possible that the pipes you describe are not fitted to all models.

Fantastic, thanks Cairus!I will give it a shot, hopefully I can get it back to work🤞🙃I will update. Cairus, You're a star mate 🙂

Full Backup Superb 3 Facelift L&K Superb3_L&K_Full_Backup.html

Interesting. .I have to look into this , thanks Cairus! I will probably check if the plug at the back of the lights is not loose or pins corroded first. That would be the best and easier option...🤞

Don't apologize Cairus, I appreciate your help anyway mate! It's not on top of my list to get this lane assist working and we will get there eventually 🙃Hope you're Ok bud, look after yourself and we will try again whenever you feeling good👍

There are microswitches inside the lock mechanism. These are a known issue within the group—specifically, the solder joints tend to break. When this happens, the trunk lighting or the Multi-Function Display (MFA) often starts acting up.

Yes and I did several times with long coding from other cars with same camera and trim. It did not work. Looks like the older models, pre Facelift are quite easy to code but after 2019 some models are blocked from coding lane assist with other tools than Obd11 , vscd...I will give it a go, thank you, but I'm not too optimistic. Many thanks for support!

Sorry @Rafal78 I have a couple of health issues.

I have a similar thing around 2500rpm in my vRS, but only under load (uphill or accelerating to enter motorway), and only very occasionally, i.e. not easy to reproduce at will. I suspect something is loose around the engine, several possibilities, including but not limited to a cracked piston ring, a cracked piston skirt around its wrist pin, or some balancer shaft issue. If it is any consolation, I have done 60k+ miles since I noticed the issue, though for me, it happens quite rarely. The engine drinks about a 250ml glass of oil per 1k miles, in line with my previous 1.9TDI Octavia which did have a cracked piston ring but otherwise engine was bulletproof. Fuel consumption and performance are both very good, and I intend to keep my vRS until the engine dies or until it meets some other end of life event, as any manual gearbox diesel car replacement will have 35% less power.

Hi everyone, I’m trying to trace a water leak in my right-hand-drive 2019 Skoda Kodiaq Ambition+ 1.5 TSI in New Zealand. After prolonged or heavy rain, the carpet and padding in the driver’s footwell become wet. The water is clean and odourless, so I believe it is rainwater. So far, I have lifted the carpet, removed trim around the bonnet release and inspected the driver-side scuttle beneath the windscreen. I removed leaves, dirt and a few small plastic pieces, cleared the drainage area and flushed it with water. It now drains quickly, but I haven’t been able to reproduce the leak during controlled water tests. I noticed what appeared to be a wet trail on a metal ledge high above the pedals, near the bulkhead. This makes me think water may be entering higher up and travelling behind the dashboard or insulation. Possible causes I’ve considered include the scuttle seams, a bulkhead grommet, windscreen bonding, the door membrane or the wheel-arch area. Has anyone experienced this on a first-generation Kodiaq, particularly a right-hand-drive model? Are there any known water-entry points above the driver’s pedals? Thanks, Daniel