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We have the same in the UK market - it’s a non-cost option. My car has it ticked. I personally wouldn’t bother ticking it - one more thing to go wrong (as I’ve just found out) and the only time I use it is during slow traffic in heavy rain. I’m currently deciding whether to get a new motor or just delete it. Still not sure!

Small update. Spent today driving it and it’s certainly not 100% as it’s hunting on start up before settling down and there’s a bit of additional vibration in the cab at idle. (There always was a bit but it’s worse). There’s also a bit of a whistle noise which would certainly indicate a leak somewhere, possibly the intake manifold which may be causing the excessive suction in the crankcase. Here’s what it’s doing on start up

hello can i have the link?

@Richard80945 Maybe a title that gives a clue would be an idea. Or just post more what the job being done.

Thank you, will try tomorrow

Avoid AC like the plaque. Find an Automatic Gearbox Specialist then. Just not the one near Sherwood Garage (Car sales) Baillieston Rd. £375 should include the filter changed. I do not know these below. But there must be someone good someplace.

Rear tyres that have taken a shape can be hopeless moved to the front. Steering, braking, traction at the front is pretty damn essential. Try controlling back end or front end when the tyres are crap and should be scrapped. Real world, real rain, cold roads, Snow, FWD or RWD or 4x4 or part time AWD.

Yes, that's probably a good description of the driving feel.

Thanks for upload. Definitely gives an insight to my Issue :) The file can be opened in Excel. Here's what I put together after a quick look. Starting at timestamp 417.51. The first column is throttle valve angle, second is engine RPM, next is specified and actual boost. The actual boost value follows specified boost, except for engine speed under 2000RPM. Does it correlate with how the car feels?

If you've the time, and facilities, it's worth switching you tyres front to rear regularly (say every 6 - 7,000 miles). Tyre wear varies from wheel to wheel. This maximise the life of each tyre and ensure that the tyres wear uniformly. For uni-directional tyres, it's rears to fronts and fronts to rear - keeping the tyres on the same side. If you've got non-directional tyres you can cross the rears as you move them to the front (OR to NF, and NR to OF), but keep the fronts on the same side as you move them to the rear (OF to OR, NF to NR). As you say "Each to their own and live and let live etc", but you've got to 'live' to achieve that (as do your passengers, family members and other road users!). Tyres are arguable the most important safety equipment on any vehicle.

Try to reset the unit to factory settings.

Hello thanks for swift reply. Yes your spot on it is DQ381 ACT FWD. My car gearbox light did flash up few weeks ago but just vanished and never came back so here i am searching for answers... arnold clark want £688 for a full DSG service😤 Henrys skoda want £375 but they are saying filter doesnt need done yet they're sytems schedule is at 75000miles

As above, generally my fronts wear quickest so when it comes the time to replace them, the rears go on the front and the new ones go on the rear. I want the front to give way first so the best tyres go at the back. Always the same make/model and only ever the 2 on the same axle. That is entirely my choice based on what I choose to believe etc. Each to their own and live and let live etc

How hard are these to change.,.. I can see the nuts... But some people say I have to drop the sub frame

Generally interior materials have some sort of grain; be it leathers or plastics. When you get marks on them the difficulty is often not getting into all the little cracks and differences in the surface. Generally, a damp cloth is great way to clean a lot of surface grime off - get a couple of light coloured flannels and you’ll see how the dirt comes off on them (choose cotton flannels so you can give them a hot wash as MF cloths shouldn’t be washed above 40degrees). However to get right into all the nooks and crannies then get a dedicated interior cleaner and a medium soft detailing brush - small circles moving around, so that the bristles get into every gap from different directions. Gentle pressure, let the tips of the bristles and the product do the work rather than pressure and elbow grease. For steering wheels, get a brush like a shoe brush (long and flat) rather than paintbrush long-handle. Same thing, spray product on the brush so you avoid overspray and gentle circles all around. Let us know how you get on @vblanche

Doing my first Oil change on this car. Presuming the filter is76mm 14 flute. Is clearance sufficient to use a 3 Claw tool or 14 flute 76mm Cup tool. Also sump bolt purchased is 29.5 mm total length. Is this the correct part - M14x1.5 Engine Oil Sump Drain Plug N90813201? See photo below. Thank you PoloPaul

More info added to my post. No idea what the previous owner was up to.

Sounds like the issue I had but obviously needs to be looked at (check my post history to see the drama I went through!). Should be sorted FOC by Skoda Dealer even if car out of warranty (it if is the same issue - variator pulley bolts loosening themselves. Get it sorted ASAP as if they come out while driving could cause a lot more damage!).

Interesting. I got this car second-hand with these bulbs in it. If they were never intended to function, I wonder why the previous owner installed LEDs and why they are wired at all. :) Edit: but yes, they indeed look like W5W LEDs.

It's normal, they don't function if you have fog lights which function as DRLs IIRC. They left the factory with blue W5W bulbs. @Evolution13 might have a fuller answer? The above is from my Fabia Scout with fogs and the blue bulbs don't work as DRLs as it has LES fog lights. Below is my old MkII which didn't have fog lights but the blue W5W bulbs were the DRLs.

Exact same issue on my 2018 Fabia Combi. Only on drivers side and so loud. Tried spraying silicone lubricant down onto the rubber but that only lasted a week or two. I think it's because the rubber has deteriorated and is now cracked and very dry. Came here to see if someone had replaced the rubber and if it was a DIY job.

I don't know, the first click in the light switch turns on the light on the bumper (bottom right in the 2nd photo). I am not sure if this bulb should come up with that too.

Okay, I will try. Thanks for your reply 😊

I genuinely spent thousands of pounds with Audi over the years and this is the first one for me.

Yes, that's what I did.