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I think you have done the right thing. You might have had a better result by getting the car fixed, but you might also have had a bigger bill than a 13 year old car was worth, even with that low mileage. Better luck with whatever you buy to replace it.

Went back to the car today and took a couple of photos. Looks like it's an eBay spoiler that sticks on top of the original. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204647671688?_skw=octavia+mk3+roof+spoiler&itmmeta=01M4TVFQEK8S496MX5MQ2S7TD5&hash=item2fa5f3a788:g:Ny8AAOSwkNRlxQLs&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA4CHNgUiiE%2FjQhlDTaMiAde%2FXBc8sGvVZQDI5fUeQN%2B3AYEtaEizxNvBkopYMBA4c1ZRbcsF9%2BexXpCT6Z4csLhidt6lyflAZK6E0%2FTXANzQ7kc8WneJ9O8pXIAX1YC1m%2BDj5LqmwoirafZsDrZ1%2FybVySPG4fixMkMReYq%2BPawXaX6AUYCGk0Z8u6NVqp%2BLJbWNWcoxCz23%2FezlNtAd5JNc3VwxaENURmCOb4Ig%2FyiGETPRPUBsnjlEYRjK8LGdqCsqAehLegv6SEfvlInu68SjmZmymWu2g2t%2ByMWG1FoEF%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7j3vtumaA https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235509501519?_skw=octavia+mk3+roof+spoiler&itmmeta=01M4TVFQEMJ6W4NF1GN87ESR0N&hash=item36d575ce4f:g:kIQAAOSw63FaFUfD&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA4CHNgUiiE%2FjQhlDTaMiAde84jwMdPL9%2BvT%2BIU0c78SuhdIl7F6FiqtXlNO5EylDy0T7gNZTENUE0ZC3vLcdCYL0foGADoDDpGtBIqKcPfD9qvI26hmT1XXARVpD9nfboH8ehdpG8AAWCpkJGy4SN8EkRqM0oa3ZPyxDoebJuAohZYkU5MPAo5QhSC3EH3R%2B4ip2uBHty4zzyVze2kYUiTQGFCrv%2BdiKs7LsusN%2FWdH24M35icqERwJxdaquS0NnnBCSzO3mlYjzlC4ObHyjzE2xDaFDdwnDxlcvI2qkUbH3o%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7j3vtumaA

I've been a long-time lurker and reader but have finally joined, hopefully I'll be of help to someone else. 2016 Yeti 4x4 diesel and a 2014 Fabia VRS Mk2 in the household. Based in Northumberland, England with a fabulous independent VW/Skoda/Audi specialist nearby. Hello to all! I have finally fixed the dreaded clock-sync problem on my Yeti's Amundsen satnav and I'm delighted! 🥳

The car was fixed by Caffyns today. They replaced the entire plastic part holding the gear selector. Photos of the part that came out are attached. It took about two hours, but that included them washing the car.

£1500. People might think me an idiot but it's a real pain (and expensive) to keep mobile for work without a working car; I'm emotionally done. I would get more if I waited but it's been a right pain and I needed to resolve the problem. At least it's not being scrapped and it's going to someone who wants to save it. That's some comfort, I guess.

Im sorry im new in this forum. Is there any way you could send me the link as well? My Skoda Fabia 2019 has the same issue. Thank you so much!

Do you mind me asking what they paid you for it ?

There is a strong possibility that your warranty provider may not be telling you the truth about there being 'No faults' (DTC codes) recorded - AFAIK, anything that causes the ECU to go into limp mode will flag a DTC - which they should be able read on the equipment they have available.

Thanks for all the helpful input. My daughter has decided to go for the Suzuki Swift petrol automatic.

I know others had this problem, but can't find a definitive solution. If I jack up the rear of the car using the reinforced sill-weld, I then have nowhere to put an axle stand. I'm reluctant to pick a suspension member, not being confident it won't get damaged. I noticed just in from the jack points there is an oval plastic cover that comes off and reveals two circulare rubber bungs a few cm apart. I have seen elsewhere someone jacking a Tiguan on this zone using a block of wood as a spreader, saving the sill weld for axle stands. Is this good practice? Thanks!

I'm pretty sure it's always been like this. I have it configured in the central console settings to keep the more secure default of NOT unlocking ALL doors just because I open my driver's door. My issue (and, yes, I have issues!) really is that I need some kind of indicator for when I open my door (which will always open from the inside no matter the lock status/ central locking settings) to remind me "the other doors are still locked"...

Link to dwonload MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0480T sent in PM

Three questions - What warning indicators (if any) light up on instrument cluster when this fault happens ? Do you get any engine misfiring immediately before the fault happens ? Does the fault only appear when you accelerate hard ?

I said something along those lines, though with a lot more expletives! There isn't a screw and looking at the new assembly there's no screw hole anywhere so i don't think that's it Looking at the new assembly though there is a moulded part and I'm wondering if that marries up to the inside of the fixture mount. I'm not sure how because it would mean the fixture pushing in then locking to the right, and there's no actual wiggle room I have an idea though so will have a look tomorrow with a thin screwdriver or blade Thanks for the replies. Sometimes that helps see it from a different view

Thanks all. I have spoken to a local trader who has bought my car and trailered it off to fix up. Hopefully it'll have another lease of life afterwards.

Hello everyone, I have an Octavia RS from 2019. The software is shown in the image. @pab567 Can you tell me if an update or something similar is possible?

Appreciate the responses :) I have bought the new screen and will update when it arrives

There's a screw underneath the button assembly that might be what holds it in. I bet you have to remove the whole glovebox assembly to get at some clips though. Did you say "I don't belieeeve it!" when the button popped out?

@amurskoda you can switch from your screen to 5E0919605M or 5E0919605N but you can NOT to 9.2" screen 5E0919606D unless you rework your glove box unit to MIB2.5

Hi I think my ear wash/wipe has a leak motor works but no spray how do I get in to replace pipe otavia 1.5 tsi 2021 Thanks all

I have swapped out my small non-carplay unit for the larger model you show above, from what I understand you also need the part that sits in the glove box, you cannot just swap the screen over. When I did mine I bought the screen and the glovebox unit second hand but together and it was a straight swap. You also need a different USB port if you wish make use of carplay options.

As your only doing 5000 miles per year the diesel would be slightly more economical but I doubt there would be that much difference in cost yearly on fuel as at moment petrol is a good bit cheaper. I have had Octavia 1.9tdi and 1.6tdi and get around 60mpg on long runs. Find the 1.6tdi as it has dpf struggles and tends to dpf regen fairly regularly if it doesnt get a decent run every few weeks. Was parked beside a Scala the other day and its a nice looking car. Didnt seem that much smaller than my estate so should be equally good on long runs and as you say perhaps easier around city. Have also found that my 1.6tdi is not emission zone compliant which is a problem if I go to one of the larger cities in Scotland. The Scala being under waranty and being 4 years younger and 50k less miles seems the way to go. As for price I am not sure. Alasdair

Hi all, I'm changing the Bolero head unit to an aftermarket DAB one and wanted to know if the windscreen DAB aerial supplied with the unit is going to be good enough, or if there are any other options. I've seen some FM/DAB splitters (such as Connects2 CT27AA152) which use the existing FM aerial on the roof of the car, and work on the basis that the OEM aerial is good enough for picking up DAB frequencies. Has anyone tried these with any success? Or is the windscreen aerial my best bet? I don't want to go the route of OEM DAB/GPS/FM aerial, as funds don't allow that! Cheers.

Great. Thanks for the quick reply. I will run this by the mechanic who did the EGR valve.... I don't have the skills nor tools...

70-75% SOC could well be due to the Smart charging alternator algorithm allowing headspace for regenerative charging - I suspect that this algorithm can lead to irreversible plate sulphation if usual driving conditions never allow the battery to regularly achieve more than, say, 90% SOC.