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The dent on the right-handside rim is really small. I had ran over concrete lane separators and I only feel that there's a dent around 50 kmh and 110 kmh. which shakes the front a little. Nothing severe. I started to think that this sound is actually comming from this brake disc.

I found another Part Number reference and a link that relates specifically to Fabia Mk4 models. This drawing shows the 'radiator louvre' assembly and there's no real doubt about what it looks like and its position on the car. There's a Skoda Fabia Owners Club Facebook group and (when I have a moment) I'll ask owners of Mk4s if their cars have the cooling-shutter unit and, if so, which country their car was bought in and its age and specification.

Hi everyone, I have a Skoda Felicia MPI, and I have been trying to diagnose a strange noise coming from the front of the car for quite a long time. I have attached a video so you can hear the noise. The noise sounds like a metallic scraping or rubbing noise. It does not happen all the time. Sometimes it starts while driving at around 60 km/h, and other times it starts at around 80 km/h. The most noticeable thing is how the noise changes when I turn the steering wheel: When the noise starts, turning the steering wheel slightly to the right makes it stop. Turning the steering wheel slightly to the left makes the noise start again. Turning further to the left makes the noise stop again. Lightly pressing the brake pedal also makes the noise stop. I have already replaced the front brake discs, front brake pads, brake caliper pistons and wheel bearings, but the noise is still there. Has anyone experienced a similar problem on a Skoda Felicia or another car? What would you recommend checking next? I would really appreciate any suggestions, especially from anyone who has experienced the same symptoms. Thanks in advance!

Link to download MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0253T sent in PM. If you want you can donate The Great Orchestra of Christmas Charity

I've lived with mine for 3.5 years now and get anything from 11.6 km/l to 13.8 km/l in mixed driving in Christchurch, NZ. Apologies, you'll have to do the conversion to Imperial units on your own. It is quite frugal but has the grunt when you need it. Hope the above helps in your decision.

Hi my name is Josh, I am doing a skoda fabia 1.4 vrs 2010, rebuild. I am not doing a rebuild because of piston ring land failure, but more as a prevention measure. I noticed there is not much videos on YouTube. So I am documenting it to post for others to see. I will keep you guys who want to see the video updated when I upload it. I wanted to do a DQ250 swap. But it's hard finding a guide or a post of what was done from start to finish. I know I need a DQ250, but is it only the DQ250 from a 1.4 tsi like the touran 1.4 tsi dsg and the golf mk5 1.4 tsi dsg (DQ250) that will fit? Or will others fit from the 2.0 tsi and 1.9tdi/2.0 tdi group fit? I read somewhere the left side drive shafts is fine to use from the DQ200 but, will need different drive shafts for the right side. From what vw/audi car? Or does it need to be a custom drive shaft for that side? Also the shifter, can the DQ200 shifter work on the DQ250 gearbox? I understand about the flywheel, starter motor, DQ200 to DQ250 plug, coding and the oil cooler. If someone who has done this mod before, can you please get back to me. I would really appreciate it. Thank you

Found the problem! The window regulator motor had been replaced by the previous owner, along with the door control module, with a different version that didn't have the wiring output for the door handle lighting, gotta replace it with the original one

It might just be one of those things. After driving the Ibiza around for a week (one breath on the pedal and you fly through the windscreen), I almost pulled out on someone in the BMW as I midsjuged the brakes! Bear in mind too, that the response is no indication of stopping power. The Ibiza has something like 276mm discs and titchy calipers, while the BMW has 360mm discs with 4-pot calipers.

I'm 95% sure the front doors are the same. If you look up the part numbers, are they different?

For coding, remember you'll need to add the cornering light function too.

Not interested, but just wanted to say what a well-written advert this is! Best of luck with the sale.

Yes the P33400P update fixed the repeated infotainment unit updates.

Hi @pab567 Could you possibly send me "mst2_eu_sk_zr_p0253t" for my headunit please? Do you have some kind of PayPal / Buy me a coffee donation set up? Thanks! Jim

PROBLEM SOLVED! Just replaced the main T-stat with an oem MHALE wich is the producer for VAG. The one i replaced first was a Myle brand. I think what happened is i got a bad myle t-stat that worked for a while but the dsg stat was bad. I then replaced the dsg stat but by the time i did that the myle t stat had failed. Then. Just buy Oem parts. It will save you so much trouble. Hope this helps somone.

The Ice Scraper has moved to the lower lefthand edge of the boot lid (when open). It won't fit in the EV "filler flap" anymore, since the fitting of the big rubber socket seal on the flap door.

With the Donald inflated fuel prices, I think a car with the economy of the Greenline is the perfect spec. And even if diesel were £1.40 a litre, there's still a lot to be said for stopping for fuel every 700 to 800 miles.

But there are 3 pins on the LED lights and only 2 on the halogen. Unless i connect the LED just as straight forward on/off fogs. Is that possible?

You hv a NAV button so you have an Amundsen MIB1 map updates stopped 5 years after the MIB1 ws last used in production, which was early 2015 - so the 2020/2021 update is the most recent available for MIB1.

No problem. I'm pretty confident you'll see a red light. If you haven't already thrown away the original oil pressure switch you took out, keep it as a spare in case the (presumably aftermarket) replacement fails prematurely.

its a big job but can be done on the drive at home i did mine over an easter weekend. front in the air on axel stands the hardest bit was getting the gearbox back in i had a helper for this part of the job. i have done many clutches in the past the clutch i used was an ebay solid flywheel kit one.

VIN now provided and the ETKA page entitled "Radiator louvre" is greyed out for this car, indicating non-fitment of those items.

ok, will do, thank you, will try early this week.

You'd think, but trust me and try what I suggest.

Ok, I'll try (not tonight, now it's dark) but I thought at idle it would need to alert if the oil pressure somehow fell to nothing. The engine would be damaged at idle. Also, I thought it should show at a cold startup, just to show the light is working, like the other lights do.

Make your own adapter. Buy the connector, pins, wires, and automotive-grade electrical tape, and you’re all set to go.