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@Stonekeeper Absolutely agree. I drive many different manual gearbox vehicles (cars, vans, minibuses) - petrol and diesel) all of them (except one) will pull away from rest on a level surface without any throttle and allow the clutch to fully engage with out slipping or stalling. As you have described the DSG does exactly the same. The one exception is very much off topic. My 1983 Metro 1.3 HLE has a very high final drive ratio so does need a little throttle @Evolution13 is right to seek clarification as there are subtle differences or nuances with the various engine/dsg combinations, I mentioned a few I had experienced in an earlier post. @Cqrmine I personally don't think you have anything to worry about enjoy your new Karoq.

I heard it's advisable to keep the N249 plugged in, to avoid misfires. Which would mean no resistor for that part of the process. Any thoughts?...

If on a straight flat road you put it in gear and release the brakes. The car will move up to a speed without accelerating. Once it is doing that speed it is not creeping it is driving slowly clutches are fully engaged. So I therefore think if you are braking to keep the speed below that the car must have to "ride" the clutch. With a friction clutch that means wear but as long as you are not revving it at the same time the wear is "as expected" and should last over 60,000 miles . The bigger torque gearboxes use metal plates with oil pressure regulation the danger to these are heat and contamination in the oil reducing it's cooling effectiveness. In some models of dsg (don't think vw is one of them) the same oil in the gearbox runs through the mechatronic unit which causes severe problems if not maintained properly. So if you look after it don't abuse it, like holding it on a hill with the accelerator pressed, that's what auto hold was invented for. The clutches should last the current manufacturers " lifetime" expectations which I think is aimed at 100,000 miles Like @Evolution13 asks it would help if we knew what the engine and gearbox in @Cqrmine car is. Most 2 litres are DQ381 with the odd 1.5 but the majority below that would be DQ200 from what i can see. "The dry-clutch DQ200 gearbox has a hard mechanical limit of 250 Nm of torque. Any engine producing that amount or less gets the DQ200. Any engine producing more torque is mechanically forced to use a heavy-duty wet-clutch unit"

That was supposed to be 30mph in 4th. Mis-typed.

I just upgraded to the OBDeleven PRO subscription to get full access to Freeze Frame data, and I stumbled upon a very interesting discovery regarding the fault's behavior: The code returns instantly on ignition alone (before even cranking the engine)! Here is exact sequence I tested: Cleared the fault code (P25AB00). Turned the ignition off. Turned the ignition back ON (engine OFF / no cranking). Ran a full diagnostic scan. The fault immediately reappears as soon as the ECU powers up, even without the starter motor engaged or the engine running. The PRO version extracted the raw Freeze Frame values. While I can't interpret these raw numbers (HEX) myself, I have forwarded the PrtSc directly to the dealership service team so their technicians can analyze the exact ECU parameters at the moment of failure. Will keep you updated once I hear back from them!

I have a klunk when changing gear (mainly low speed) and slightly when lifting off the gas. Diff shafts seal area’s are leaking slightly on both sides. In my limited knowledge and based on the below video I’m thinking stub axels and or diff bearings but I would like advice before buying the parts. The video is both drive shafts grabbed at the box and twisted back and forth. IMG_6242.mov

Can we recap please and be clear. What engine and DSG has @Cqrmine Is it a DQ200 Twin Dry Clutch or a DQ381 Twin Wet Clutch DSG., & fitted engine?

@RenSkoda How about doing 40 mph in 3rd gear then?

Hey! Have a soft bricked unit, stuck on boot logo. So bought a UART-TTL adapter and used some tweezers to short 2 points on circuitboard, can get into emergency menu but it does not want to load emergency update. Have my previous firmware on SD card inserted. If I keep tweezers in place the emergency menu pops up, then "boot stopped", followed by emergency menu and so on. Removing tweezers directly after menu pops up, then pressing "2" does not work either. And reboot after pressing "2" does not work, see screenshot. Always get the "loading emergency updater" but then it always continues boot with "Welcome to QNX .." message, at the end it runs some shutdown script and I'm left with "Shutdown complete" message in Putty terminal window. So anyone have any experience with this? If you need more info just say the word.

I need to get a new door for rear side passenger superb in anthracite grey Anyone know where the best place to source one is? And advice on how to fit it would be gratefully received. thanks

Sounds very much like the drive shaft splines need to be re-glued. (Yes! Glued!) I've had MEB cars for over 5 years and this issue has been raised a number of times on various forums. There is a clicking sound from the rear when moving off (forward or reverse) and when going over to full re-gen. The splines on the drive shafts have movement caused by the adhesive used on them failing. All cases I've heard about have been covered by warranty or extended warranty. Worth a Google.

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Only codes that come up are for ‘Random misfire’ according to my garage. It’s never had an engine light come on for it. Just judders and lurches between 15-1800RPM. Typically most detectable when doing 40 mph in 4th gear.

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Agree - I’ve not detected any clutch slip when creeping, if trying to creep up a steep hill maybe there would be slip. My 2.0 TSI defaults to pulling away, if it can, in 2nd gear and that does require a small amount of clutch slip- its quite obvious to the driver as engine revs and speed are mismatched- quite different to creep.

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It's probably less wear than on a manual clutch because the car is doing it not the driver,

Oh dear, does that cause damage or is it engineered to withstand it?

The transmission will be slipping the clutch - there is no extra low gear for 'creeping'

I would suggest taking a good look at the switch and the starter solenoid, very likely to let you down in the future.

I have, but wanted to get it running first! 😆

Have you considered fitting hood gas struts to that lovely beast?

Thank you guys! I've got a small update. It turned out to be uncleaned battery leads. After brushing the clamps with some sandpaper the car starts reliably now. There is a occasional hiccup at the start position though. I turn the key, hear constant buzzing when holding the key at the START (not the ignition prime) and nothing else happens. It's so rare that I won't bother for now

Morning all. Have a new issue I thought I would run by you to see if anybody has had similar.... 2021 Enyaq 60 with 110k miles. Have recently had starting a 'clicking' noise when moving away from a standing start and then when breaking. Almost sounds like a relay opening/closing. Strangely enough, if you pull away VERY slowly, it does not do it. Car is at the dealer for a number of issues but, on this one (no diag done by 5 on Monday but completed by 11 yesterday), it has been declared as a major job requiring 10 hours of labour to power down, remove gearbox and carry out repair. All very vague at the moment and have asked for a breakdown of parts required. Quote for the repair is £3,300 !!! My initial enquiry is whether anybody has had similar please?? If this needs to be done, then so be it, but a bit miffed that a 4 year old car with (relatively) not high mileage, requires an expensive repair like this !! Will add to my post if/when I get an update of requirements.... Thanks in advance, Paul

Can you say if the car is slipping clutches while creeping or is there an ultra low gear in operation as I seem to recall reading of? Going back to the dealer Monday for a further run through of the settings. When I asked about some settings last week he would say: " Oh don't bother about that, I never use it" or "that will come up automatically" (it didn't, it has to be set with a tick.) I need to know if features such as emergency braking are turned on. I don't want to find out the hard way. I suspect he didn't know the answers. Thanks again.