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The Fabia MK3's spare wheel (185/60R15 6Jx15 ET38) has an outside diameter 3.0% smaller than the Fabia MK4's spare wheel (185/65R15 5.5Jx15 ET40). Additionally, the Fabia MK3's spare wheel (185/60R15 6Jx15 ET38) has an inflated width that is about 6mm wider than the Fabia MK4's spare wheel (185/65R15 5.5Jx15 ET40). The offset is also 2mm different, ie. ET38 vs ET40. That additional 6mm in inflated width, might result in the carpet being lifted...but you would have to check if you just happened to have an old Fabia MK3 spare wheel lying around. The 2mm reduction in offset might also add to the carpet lifting problem that can occur when the wrong spare wheel is used in the spare wheel well.

My radio has started to distort at low volume and high volume but it's much more notice bake at low volume. I do drive the amp and speakers loud a lot of the time but I am also and ex sound engineer ao I do know how hard they can be driven safely. I'm guessing at the most as I have not done any diagnostics yet other than pressing and holding the power button for 10 secs til the unit reboots and the logo cones up but that makes no difference. I'm thinking of changing the radio to an aftermarket one is there any that fit the hole without needing fascia panels and keeps as many of the cars original functions like on the old screen at all?? Haven't really got round to looking into it yet, but I'll probably be getting rid next year. Any thoughts or suggestions on decent ish replacments as above??

Going back to the thread title, it's looking increasingly unlikely with talk of 4,000 job cuts. I think I read that for each job lost in the manufacturing of a car, that could be three jobs in the supply chain so as many as 16,000 jobs at risk. Sad times for all at risk.

Is that not the one posted above.

I've owned this car for 14 years and have a growing appreciation for it. Loved it for the first 3-4 years, then for a while it just became another tool to be used - partly for financial reasons, I just kept it going with the bare minimum (cheap tyres, interim services instead of full, etc). But then 2-3 years ago (as electric and hybrid cars were becoming more common), I looked into getting a new car and realised just how expensive that would be! Thought I'd rather try to keep this one going for as long as possible, even though my wife doesn't quite see eye-to-eye with me on that one - haha! "I hate that car - I don't understand why you don't just get a new one??" ...like I've got £30k tucked down the back of the sofa...?! So... I started looking into the key wear-and-tear and long-term "engine killer" items for it, and have been trying to remedy as many of them as financially possible over the last 12-18 months. I'm under no delusions that I can make the car last forever, but it feels like it's got a fair bit of life left in it, as long as I start proactively looking after it with some preventative maintenance... rather than just living MOT-to-MOT and only fixing what I'm told to. Trying to find the balance is a bit tough, though - not being a mechanic, knowing where to draw the line between what's worth fixing/replacing, and what is just throwing money away.

Go for it, but see if you can detect any difference in engine sounds or behaviour. In the filling ratio you mention and with it starting out as 'mostly diesel' I can't see much risk at all.

Yes it's directly behind the glovebox, passengers side. I'd just replace it for a new one, no matter how it looked.

Sounds right, yes.

It’ll be fine for an old diesel from say the early 90s or an old generator, but probably not worth it in a car unless you’re willing to pick up the bill for a new DPF.

I am not a mechanic either but been working on my cars and others for 40 years plus, although I do miss the simplicity of older cars. These days I am struggling but learning slowly. I keep my cars till they die and then struggle cause the next one is normally 10 years more modern. My old friend who had a proper old school garage used to say nuts and bolts no problem at all but computers and electronics another ball game. Hope you get it sorted Alasdair

When idling, it was fluctuating between 690-720... so yes, hopefully that means that the fuel side of things is all OK for now. Thanks again for your help and quick replies - very much appreciated. I'll post an update when I've had the DV replaced.

Thank you for the help. So, just to be clear, if I last had my cambelt changed at 46,000 miles in 2021, the next change would be due at 146,000 miles, with no time limit?

Hi, yes all serviced less than 2000 miles ago, yet to give it a good run but will soon👍

That I think is good news. I read that its should be 48bar running which is near as damn it 700psi so looking good and HPFP and n276 valve is doing what it should. Shouldn't take a garage too long to swap over valves as they can lift car for access. Hope it solves the problem. Alasdair

Yeah it was all done properly on a laptop. I wont pretend to know what he was doing on the laptop, but he measured before and after cleaning and it did reduce dramatically, I have the paperwork somewhere. It was also the cleaner that mentioned I needed a new differential pressure sensor, the first time around. Its 100% burning the oil, but didnt notice at the time if it had improved the oil consumption. I still topped up the oil every time I filled the car with diesel, its now habit, and really annoying. I havent yet tried the flush and liqui moly, but I will do if I end up keeping the car and going down the dpf delete route.

Where did you find the bit about body protection warranty? It would be handy to get a decent copy as I just have what is listed in the handbook.

Checked it again a little while ago - no pressure spikes. Turned it on, idled at around 700 psi, turned it off. Let it climb to 1000, then turned it on again - immediately dropped to 700. Turned it off, let it climb back up to 1200, then turned it on - dropped back to 700 again. I'll see if my local garage can replace the diverter valve with a 'Rev G' and see what happens.

There is nothing about a Service Record or Annual or periodic inspections in the Warranty T&C,s. Ask the Service Manager or Warranties Manager where a Service History is required. Your Used Skoda should have had an Inspection Pre Sale. So there is a Record of That and who and where done by. Someone on the phone can be anyone and have no knowledge or training other than from some other monkey. I imagine they can read, or can phone or ask as friend who knows what is actually what and not what they would like things to be.

Skoda dealership are telling the truth.

Thanks for the help with this everyone! Can confirm the software update helped. I had this issue on my Dec 2018 Fabia, which I had only just bought, so didn’t quite trust myself to do the update in case I messed something up. Decided to contact the original dealer instead (thankfully was a VAG dealer), and they originally said there was no recall, but after some slight persuasion, got it updated to 8755 by them. CarPlay works perfect now and is so much better than just bluetooth audio.

It may also explain why I haven’t had any software problems………yet!

Was the cars Ecu told that the dpf was cleaned, meaning that were the oil ash levels etc dialed back to zero? And was the dpf professionally cleaned, the backpressure measured before and after cleaning. But that kind of oil consumption will most likely clog the dpf fast again, if there isnt any leaks its burning the oil, turbo seals faulty or piston oil rings. Has the oil consumption improved after dpf cleaning? The reduced backpressure has reduced oil blow-by on piston rings? Have you tried a motor flush like forte? And after motor flush a good quality oil like Liqui Moly Top Tec 4200 5W-30.

Hi, I recently had a service on my 2016 Skoda Rapid 1.4 TDI, where the mechanic recommended changing the cambelt as it has been 5 years since the last change. The last cambelt change was in 2021 at 46,000 miles, and the car is now at 102,000 miles. I contacted a Skoda dealership for a quote and was told that the guidance has changed to changing the cambelt every 100,000 miles, with no time limit. However, looking online, I seem to be finding conflicting information about the recommended interval, which is confusing me. I'm leaning towards getting it changed just to be safe, but it's quite a lot of money, so I wondered if anyone here has any advice or knows what the current recommendation is for this engine? Many thanks, Nahum

Hi. I'm not the most car-savy person in the world, but I do enjoy my Skoda Rapid and aim to take good care of it. Nahum