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I've known mine to lock/unlock as I'm washing it if I have the key on me, take the key away though and it stops. The only other time I've experienced this was after my MOT last year, when for a day afterwards my car would unlock itself and the alarm would trigger. Went away on its own though after a day and I put it down to maybe they'd disconnected the battery or something during its MOT and not reconnected it correctly? Not sure. But worth checking on the health of your 12v battery I'd say.

The point I think the video is making is, are we just replacing one problem with another before we have thoughlly tested things out. Are we just adding another form of pollution while still continuing the former? We will still require oil and plastics, so drilling will still be done. Should we have invested more in looking at ways to scrub the harmful emissions from burning fossil fuels while simulatously looking at other technologies at exploring their potentials? So we don't just lurch from discovering that petrol has major issues, then the same again with diesel, and we already are aware that Lithium has some major undesirable effects etc. The post is not a downer on EVs and praising fossil fuels, it's taking an alternative look at devlopments and questioning everything. Just maybe we should all be thinking this way, because that is how progress is made, it is not made by just following like sheep what a few people are telling us. We need to think outside of the box.

Thanks Alasdair - I'll check it out. Not looking forward to getting the EGR Cooler out, though - looks like a nightmare job on the YouTube vids I've seen.

The oil temps still sound a bit on the high side, but not much, probably ~5 deg C higher than I would expect. Oil cooler on these engines is disappointingly small. However, I decided not to fit external oil cooler because if it is impacted, engine loses oil, and some of the roads I drive on are shockingly poor. It is worth also double checking that the coolant mixture is not too rich in antifreeze. I avoid G13 as it really needs a silicate bag to lubricate water pump, and that's another bag of problems when the silicates burst out and block heater matrix. G12++ is my choice, currently use one made by Fuchs, numbers below are for G12++ It's water that's removing majority of the heat and 40% antifreeze is more than enough down to -27degC and up to over +140degC, if more range needed, 50% diluted G12++ works in -37degC / 145degC range. Preventing coolant boiling out is why ECU limits power above 135degC. in general, so long as coolant is relatively fresh, the more water in it, the better it carries the heat out, right down to about 35% G12++ content, after which point corrosion and lubrication might become an issue. So 40%-50% is best range IMHO. The difference in coolant heat capacity between 40% and 60% is about 7%, and if a car is filled with pure G12++ (some people mistakenly think undiluted coolant is best), the difference between 40% and 100% G12++ accounts for about 25% reduction in coolant heat capacity.

I've just spotted this on eBay, has anyone fitted one of these Vapos retractable towbars? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/257584097212 A video showing it in use https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2qE2QlGz11g

One solution or grin and bear it. Generally I checked the route if its long distance before setting off. TMC was handy in that it gave you similar information as the boards they use to have up in motorway service stations. In urban areas when you hit a jam you just follow the people ahead who are all taking the same google maps merry go round then filter back on when required. Works for me. Connected Vag cars all come with traffic data built in assembled by Here Maps. Keep your contract going for that and map updates. What I'll be doing when I get a new car, till then check for traffic before starting off and at worst tag onto the Google Maps car conga at a diversion. Alternatively on these connected cars or mib2s / 3s use Android Auto or Car Play. Android Automotive being deployed in the latest Vag cars use Here Maps, have the traffic reports if you take the contract out or plug in your phone if that takes your fancy. That covers all bases except external satnavs that always fell down off the window for me. I like them built in with no messing, trailing wires or over heating phones.

Yes, but with the way I drive, that would mean rotating every 1,000 miles. I’m not paid enough to do that!

Hi can anyone with eligible access to 24partslink or erwin skoda help me to extract the PR Code of my vehicle? my vin <Removed> many thanks Please use do not post your VIN or reg number on the public forums, as data scraping may use this information for vehicle cloning or other activities. Only send this information via the PM (Private Messaging) function to trusted members. If the PM function is not yet available to you, tagging the member and asking them to start a conversation will work. Briskoda admin.

Depends on the pressure of the more air. Then sidewalls and if XL (Reinforced or not) So maybe lose some supposed sportiness of the handing for more comfort, or roll.

More air in there gives more cushioning , any little is welcome 5mm all round the tyre will definetely be better. OZ rims fitting as quality strong and larger air gap than some cheaper wheels . Will feedback with findings 👌

Is generating electricity and using it for transportation while being able to reduce burning fossil fuels like coal, oil or gas to generate it a mistake? Is planning for reducing the emissions of road vehicles and other transportation a mistake? Is letting people just put out as much pollution as they wish going to be continuing within Europe a sensible thing?

My advice would be to purchase an external SAT Nav like a TomTom unit, for example, or if you have a system with Apple CarPlay or Android Auto built-in, to use that and use Google Maps on your phone. Both of these approaches will also give live traffic data, which I think is provided courtesy of mobile phone tracking and system can see where the mobile phones that were moving before have just suddenly all slowed right or become stationary. The only real problem with these options is that if you have that little dot matrix screen on your instrument cluster giving you turn-by-turn information on the distance to the junction, etc., that functionality is not present.

The gfs Polo has had a bit of a major malfunction and is currently in limp mode...dash lit up like a Christmas tree. It now struggles to start and really badly chugs once it has actually started. There are a number of warnings that then pop up on the display: - Error: Stabilisation control (ESC) - Error: start-stop system - Error: Type Pressure Loss Indicator - Error: ParkPilot I'm totally guessing but maybe some kind of engine management system fault? Anyway, I'm trying to find a local garage to get it to but I can't find anywhere that can look at it short term. The soonest I've been quoted so far is 10 August! 😬 Just wondering if anyone can recommend a decent garage in South Manchester (the closer to Sale the better) that I can try? Thanks...

Many faults can cause LIMP mode... With 4 YETI's in the family 2012,2015,&2x2016. My bet's on the coil-pack (as long as you've tested the Ignition-Leads & Spark-Plugs are still good). Just be careful that you 've checked your engine model CBZ shown above is the older 105hp & the newer 110hp is usually CYV.

Here is a rather interesting theory on the rise of the EV throughout history, and it asks the question: are we making the correct decision now even, or will history prove that we are making things worse or better?

Yes they pulled the plug for good but we did get three more extra years by swapping over from Traffic Master to Inrix. It was useful like yesterday long queues at road works in a rural area. Inrix would have told you and marked up the area.

The end of the service was determined back in 2011 https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/media/5a7b576a40f0b64646935832/Traffic_and_Travel_Report_1_.pdf

If only everyone was so proactive. If everyone checked tyre pressures or looked at treads or the inside wall of tyres before TPMS warnings or MOT failures.

Exactly!

i've got same here. Was working with old maps and INRIX, but no longer :-(

Doesnt take much to leak especially exhaust into coolant. Hopefully pressure test comes back good and a new gasket cures it. Alasdair

Look also for the carbon build up on the intake valve, it's a direct fuel injection engine a walnut blast could be nice

Could be an ABS wheel speed sensor! when problematic the car goes in to limp mode!

Hi all. I have a 2023 Octavia VRS Phev and have had the usual software bugs and gremlins over the years. Something I have only started to notice recently however is that I’ll often find that the car is unlocked, sometimes having been so all night. And yet at other times, when I want it to remain unlocked (while I am washing it for example) it will keep on locking itself, despite me repeatedly unlocking it again. I know all about the key not being kept too close to the car etc etc, and I know for fact that I am not forgetting to lock it when I walk away. I have been driving for more than 25 years now and locking a car is just something you do without even thinking about it. Does anyone else have this issue at all, or shall I just chalk it up to being another one of my cars quirks?

Head is off, no obvious cracks (which is goodish), will be dropping it off on Friday for pressure testing. I do think there are some areas where it could have been leaking combustion gasses, thats the spots on 2 and 3 there it its got dark soot, not 100% sure but more evidence.