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Ours is still on 302. Got update notification just now and pressed update but nothing happened again. Checked an hour later and still on 302

The morning session has gone well. The challenges were: Despite being a Classic spec car, it has plastic undertrays that have to drop at least partly to get to the places that handbrake cables emerge. And of course most of those steel clips that hold it onto studs on the underbody were 'crumble to dust' status 24 years on from build. These clips that attach the cable to the underside of the rear beam are pure evil. The handbrake cable rubber grommet was well stuck in there, as per hatboy's video posted above. (Rotary) Wire brushed clear of loads of white aluminum oxide before fitting new cable into it (tried without and it was about 8mm shy of full insertion). For those who didn't watch the vid, it's these alloy tubes that the rubber bits stick fast into That's a spare I kept from last time I did this job, and used new tubes. The bearing showed up and the rear end is now all done. Just front bumper to do.

Hello, please can you describe me your issues with Wireless Android Auto? Thank you.

Hi, I did the oil change 2 days ago. The 161mm oil filter was the correct one. It is more faff than our old SII.... The tray is fixed with more bolts and different sizes. There is another part - a V488 heat assist pump - that you have to unbolt and swing out and then not mix up all your Torx screws before you get to the oil filter housing. Then you drain oil from it with a 10mm hex and to unbolt the housing you use a 26mm. Oil fill on the DTUA is 5.5l.

With a project cost of $200 million, the largest fully electric ship and largest battery electric vehicle of any kind in the world has just arrived in Uruguay for the Colonia-Buenos Aires route. Electric ferry delivery.mp4

For me 0334 has not only fixed the continued update issue it's fixed the connection issues I had with Wireless Android Auto

Hi - looking at the Travall and Guardsman dog guards (plus the dividers). We'll need to be able to drop the single split seat with the guard fitted, in order to load a cello. Does anyone who has either of these guards know if it is possible to easily drop the single seat back with the guard still fitted and whether the fittings obstruct the load space? The Guardsman guard appears to hook on to the seat back tethers, so I assume you have to loosen and unhook every time you want to drop the single seat. Which seems a bit of a pain. The Travall one fits to the load lashing points so doesn't seem affected by dropping the single seat, but do they encroach much into the load bay and/or present a gap where he can get a leg stuck? (He's not very bright - if it is possible, he will manage it). Any advice?

The front assist issue is caused by dirty or frozen sensors, happens on all versions of the Mk 4. Not sure about the others though, sounds like the 4.5 has gremlins just like the 4 did. Hopefully an owner with experience of these issues will see your thread 🫰🏻

One has to complain and even politely ask for compensation. I recently got a V2L adaptor for free after complaining on one important issue which they conceded was not good enough.

Dear Experts, All sorted. thanks for trying to help me. regards

Hi @26DIPP , did you change it already? Have you done it yourself?

I spoke to the parts department who advised that the “latest style” wheel caps will fit my wheels. For £20 I’ll give them a go. Hopefully they will last a bit longer than the chrome ones!

Hey, same here! I was bugged with the repeated updates from months and was about to tell the dealer to update the infotainment manually in the next oil change. Yesterday I was notified about this update and that I should not drive the vehicle until it completes. Hopefully that will cure the update notification every other trip.

A further trip to Waddington might be in the offing!

And what really happened yesterday... Coolant and exp tank change went well. Rocker gasket change went well (just two fasteners, M6 nuts, on this AWQ-code 1.4 MPI engine from 2002, 3Nm torque. I'd bought the gasket from ebay, and the little 'grommety bits the studs come through' from Skoda parts,.com, for a hell of a lot less than I could find elsewhere. Bumper came off very easily, and I kinda made progress on gluing various bits, but haven't yet refitted. Bumpstops arrived with the postie, late morning, so that job became doable. 🙂 Lubed, wire-brushed and loosened the lower shock bolts both sides before lunch, including a brief 'oops that's the tightening direction, that won't work' moment on one side. 😆 Bumpstop changes went well, apart form forgetting to refit the little plastic cap that goes on the topmount on the side that goes up into the body. Couldn't live with knowing I'd left that off, so the topmount had to come back down again. Then I thought, while the wheel's off I may as well investigate this drum brake... And that's where it all went to crap. Drum wouldn't even turn by hand with handbrake fully off, despite having moved the car a few yards mid morning, so definitely seizing well. Decided that the shoe set and handbrake cable were getting changed (both bought ahead of time), so thought I'd carry on and disassemble some stuff, despite running low on energy. Realised that the hub/bearing would need to come off to make the changes much easier, as the shoe set I'd bought was preassembled. It didn't. Hub nut took much more force (2ft breaker bar and my full weight) to undo, and even when removed completely the bearing wasn't 'just pulling off freely like they do on youtube'. Turned out the inner race was seized to the stubaxle, and the bearing was destroyed by the time I'd removed it in multiple pieces. No spare on hand. Heat and chiselling required to de-stick the inner race. Amazon delivering a dodgy-sounding-brand one sometime this morning. So the plan for today, remove old handbrake cable, hopefully not seized at the exit point out of the body like they generally are: https://youtube.com/shorts/xzMXu85LUjU?si=6T-_FLKP7GnSQ2VT Then fit new handbrake cable, shoe set, hub/bearing and adjust it all up. Then refit front bumper. 🤞

And whs at is the reason for wanting the dash cam removed, I've had this on a few vehicles going in for service / repair

My 9,2" Display Display, the same in the kodiaq, 50€ 😂

Thought this might be a fun thing for a non-model-specific, general interest thread. Inspired by yesterday's events, and probably today's too. 😁 Idea being to show the gap between the plan and the reality, because in my experience they rarely correlate exactly. Obviously, it will be more entertaining and instructive when things don't go to plan. Not intended to be a post for just bragging about how fast and efficient you are, but if you want to feed back preventive or problem solving tips in response to others' problems, that's obviously going to be good. Example - yesterday I planned a few jobs on a mk1 Fabia that I recently acquired, wasn't sure how far I'd get through it, but there was always today as well, to finish off overspill. Remove front bumper, to fix a little front-end collision (hedge) damage Change coolant (flush too) and expansion tank Check right side rear drum handbrake, which was seizing on, and had a bodged fixing from last visit (see The Daily Bodge 30th Aug) Change rocker cover gasket to fix oil leak Change rear bumpstops if delivered

Car: 2015 Octavia Scout, manual gearbox, 2.0 TDI (CRMB), 230000km Hi, My octavia has an issue. It takes a really long time to reach operating temps. Yesterday driving at 90 km/h (+5 min city traffic first) and 10°C outside, it took me almost 15 min before I had reached 90°C coolant temp and ≈ 75°C oil temp. Driving speeds below 50km/h I can barely get the needle to move. Oil temp also has a hard time to go above 80-85°C going 80-90km/h, but driving in highway speeds I can reach 90-110°C depending on outside temp. Also if I engine brake and roll down a long hill, the coolant temp drops ≈ 5-10°C. This happens even in the summer, with temps around 20-25°C. So, my main hypothesis is a broken coolant thermostat, since I have no error codes and the fault has just appeared without leaks, noises or any other symptom. Water pump was swapped last year, hopefully it's not that. One thing i'm not sure about is if I have the easily accessable DSG thermostat under the intake, even though I have a manual gearbox? What do you people think, should I try having a mechanic swap the thermostat (the main one that's hard to reach)? My guess is it will cost a couple hundred euro, so that's why I'm asking here first if it could be something else.

Already swapped for Polybush versions, much nicer. I’ve had track cars with solid mounts so knew it would be bad but got them cheap so thought I’d try it. Found out why they were cheap!

Defective / cracked cables in the door hinge grommet or at the door lock plug end? Common problem after some years. I'd start with checking ECU error codes, if there is anything to do with the door latch in the logs, check the cables in the hinge and around the plug to actuator. Failing that, the fault is likely to be with the actual lock, I'd replace the lot. HTH.

Looking to buy a new Superb SEL phev estate. Has anyone got experience with this model? Any advice appreciated.

Probably worth disconnecting battery negative before unplugging it, but then you certainly can. You can buy replacement brackets very cheaply on ebay, but they are likely to be 3D-printed, weak and not necessarily a good fit. Lashing it in with cable ties is a good suggestion and perfectly adequate. Genuine replacement not that expensive in the grand scheme of things, if you must: Skoda parts

Yes it’s a MIB3; i prefer not to patch as I want to keep all the services connected

I was lucky: got it for 130€ from a totalled car in a wreckage shop with regular invoice