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Very late replying, but I had a failure in my Swedish MOT yesterday because of an engine oil leak. Spent most of today degreasing and washing the engine bay of my 1999 1.3 Felicia and discovered the leak was from the cam follower cover. When I checked the cover bolts, 2 were finger tight and the other 2 were not much better..... To be on the safe side I've ordered a new gasket and 4 of the cover bolt rubber seals.....

The super massive Brent field known for being sweet and i understood that the strata that the North Sea is is light crude or gas. Which fields have heavier fractions ?

Hi Adenuf Same problem here, already checked the filter and its ok, values are regular, but regen every 31 miles... Changes the lambda sensor because of fault 1 month ago and now going for the DPF sensor and tubes, will give feedback here

Maybe some does, but not all of it.

Thanks all, Some of this makes me confident and some less so! It'll definitely be over 3 years old. I've since found out that the exact one they were looking at has been reserved by someone else so is currently off the menu but they're still looking at similar so this is all very helpful. Does anyone know if the same issues apply to the equivalent VW (T-CUP or whatever the smaller one is called this year) model?

could be a worn cv joint/drive shaft thats clunking. Mine sounds similar and reckon theres play in joint/shaft so under aceleration you dont notice as its under pressure but if you slow down and accelerate again it clunks slightly. I assume the clunking is the slack being taken up. Doesnt do it full left/right but generally in a straight line. Alasdair

Russia getting Arctic crude out but weather will close that down for the winter soon. Lots of wind around in North Sea for the bext few weeks and so cheap, zero or negative priced electricity for businesses, EVs / PHEVs and homes who tune in to Time Of Use tariffs.

Thanx No, no braking. Is somehow posssible that can be brake pads? About three months i replace front brake pads with ABS brand. And then about one week i have wierd noise when i drive foward and pres brake, there was one metal noise,and then when i go revers and pres brake there was again one metal noise. But after week that was good. (Brake pads moving i guess)

Sorry for messing up, I forgot to upload the picture and I'm not able to edit the post.

There not a ton of content about repairing the tube, replacing it yes but a solid repair, no. I'll keep updating the post with what I do as it may help people with the same issue. I have ordered 2 more Pneumatic fittings: SMC KQ2L06-99A - although the opening is 6mm i've seen on a passat forum someone was able to get the injector nozzle firmly inserted. SMC KQ2H04-06A - This acts as the bridge from 6mm-4mm so that the ad blue cable can connect at the other end. I can't be 100% if this will work as the passats nozzle could be a different size, but the forum says this worked very easily. We'll see Parts cost £20 with delivery total spend so far £40.

North Sea oil is a light oil with less diesel hence diesel has to come from other continents from their crude or from their refined product which is heavier distillate intensive.

@CJJE @ian-inhome what version. Hardware and Software do you currently have? Prior to the update I had Hardware H25 and Software 0330, after the update 0334. This is for Amundsen unit - Columbus has different hardware and software versions. Maybe the latest download only works with 0330.

Hello everyone, I’ve bought a 2016 model year Skoda Fabia NJ. The factory-fitted radio is the Bolero, part number: 5Q0035819, software: H21.50.93_STD2_EU. SmartLink is enabled, but the only option available is MirrorLink. Unfortunately, that’s no use to anyone these days. Is it possible to get Android Auto working via a software update? Or is there another way to use Android Auto without having to fit a different multimedia unit? Best regards

Looks like we've come to the end (I hope) The original garage that was looking into this gave up and recommended me somewhere else who they said were better equipped so I took it to them. Gave them all the information I had. Intake air temp reading either -40/-60/100+ degrees and that after swapping the sensors out, they'd roughly last three days or so. I also swapped the battery out myself before taking it to the new garage as a last ditch attempt to fix it myself and save my bank account. It didn't fix the issue but it did fix the auto stop/start which was temperamental at best prior. Turns out the battery that was in the car originally was for a VW transporter. Anyway, to the meat, this new garage found that the main engine wiring harness that connects to the alternator and starter motor had been rubbing on the wiring loom that contained the 5v reference wire that goes to the sensors. Over time the insulation from both wires rubbed away leaving 12v wiring exposed and several of the wires in the loom also exposed. So occasionally the 12v would contact the 5v and fry the sensors. Which would explain why there was no rhyme or reason to when the sensors would die. It was just a case of when the 12v contacts the 5v. They asked if the car had ever had a new clutch or starter motor as they were confused as to why these cables were in contact with one another but I didn't have the answer as I've only had the car for so long and certainly not had any major work done on it. In any case they swapped the wiring harness, re-ran it to no longer rub on the wiring loom, re-insulated the exposed wires in the loom and put in a couple of new sensors for me and charged me £800 for the pleasure. I guess that's the price you pay for a more professional outfit. What a saga it's been, I think if the car gives me any more trouble I'll drive it into a lake. Thank you all for your ideas and assistance with this, I do appreciate it.

INEOS / Sir Jim Ratcliffe / PetroChina closed Grangemouth for Refining and now closing down elsewhere because of the cost of gas. Not that the UK Government really gives a monkeys.

But if there is no North Sea oil coming a shore and diesel being shipped in, no need for a refinary so there was no future for them to remain for was there? The well paid jobs went as well no nothing to replace them.

little AI but you will get a point This engine features what is known as a "floating" camshaft sprocket. This means the sprocket does not have a keyway, dowel pin, or slot to lock it into a fixed position on the shaft. As long as the center bolt is loose, the sprocket can rotate freely 360 degrees around the camshaft. The factory procedure for setting the engine to TDC (timing alignment) looks exactly like this: Locking the engine: The crankshaft is set to Top Dead Center (TDC) and locked using a special timing pin screwed into the engine block. The camshaft is locked from the rear end (near the vacuum pump) using a specialized flat alignment plate tool to keep it perfectly horizontal. Installing the chain with loose bolts: The new chain and guides are mounted onto the engine. At this point, the center bolt of the camshaft sprocket must be loose. This allows the sprocket to rotate independently and adapt to the teeth of the chain as it's being installed, without moving the actual camshaft, which remains firmly locked by the tool. Activating the tensioner: The pin is pulled from the new hydraulic chain tensioner so it can extend and fully tension the chain. Only when the tensioner takes up all the slack does everything sit in its ideal position. Torquing down at true zero: While both the crankshaft and camshaft are still 100% locked in place, and the chain is fully tensioned, the mechanic must use a counter-hold tool on the sprocket and torque the new camshaft center bolt to the exact factory specification (torque plus angle). Where did the mechanic most likely make a mistake? If the mechanic did not loosen the sprocket bolt when installing the new chain, or if they torqued the bolt down without using a proper counter-hold tool (relying solely on the locking tools inside the engine block/head to resist the tightening force), the locking tools flexed or bent slightly under the heavy pressure. At the exact moment the bolt was torqued, the sprocket "pulled" the camshaft a degree or two out of alignment. The result is exactly what you are experiencing—an engine that seems to run, but suffers from "incorrect timing" under load because the ECU detects a mismatch between the crankshaft sensor and the camshaft sensor.

As title, really - did you get asked to cover the service cost, or did Skoda Financial Services just let you cancel?

Refineries are private businesses so unless the uk governmrnt is will to support a failing business with many millIions of pounds of public money then it is left to the market. The more logical solution is to gave substantial strategic reserves and the oil diesel refineries should have been bought to use their tanks as strategic reserve for farmers, logistics and military but sadly last governments did not do that and gas left as vulnerable. European mainland countries typically have 3 times the reserves we do.

Hi Ian, Yes I'm just waiting for them to try that one on... But the fault must surely be a design/manufacturing fault not wear and tear? It's their update software that is faulty, and if they try to charge owners just because we are out of warranty we need to publicise their inadequacies I reckon.

If B8 is being suggested there is no DCC option (Bilstein Damptronic) for Skoda Superb.

That shows the total lack of joined thinking and strategic planning. We stop refining North Sea crude for our own consumption but then import it from Netherlands etc.

It's just greenwashing.

you're welcome :)

will do, thanks