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I just zoomed in on the photo and saw the reg of the 2019 one.

No in answer to your question about body work holes. There is a missing grommet in the boot and the spare is sitting in the wheel well untethered. No jack or wheel brace. I gather it's had one haldex service.

Yeah I heard about the motor, but the passenger window works on it's own switch so I just bought a replacement drivers switch for £8. If it doesn't work then I'll sort the motor. Thanks for the heads up on the clutch change. I was aware of the slave cylinder but thought they were internal, I'll change that too while I'm at it.

I tried the above advice yesterday and of course it was spot on. Turned off auto hold, there was a slight delay then the car crept forward. Previously I had reversed out of my drive rather too suddenly with the auto hold on; I presume I will need to leave autohold off until l am in the road. Thanks again to all for the valuable advice.

Yes, similar like this when i only press the brake pedal

It's a magical couple of weeks after repair. All very odd and not much like quality engineering. Puts me off ever going Skoda again.

The front windows may be the drivers side motor. It controls the passenger side as well. There known to fail electronics but Breezy Pete on here repaired my sons for me. Clutch change is not bad. Managed to do my sons on car ramps and suspended box rather than get it out from under car although the plate between the bell housing and engine gets caught up and get new bolts for driveshafts. Watch the bolts that go into dogbone bush at rear of box. They are different lengths and if you get them mixed up you will trash the steering rack as its above and the bolt goes too far in. I replaced slave while I was at it as although its external if it leaks you wont notice. There excellent cars and so far fairly easy to work on and pretty reliable. Alasdair

Lots of money to be made with eye wear or operations. The car collection of David Moulsdale @ the Moulsdale Foundation Museum is well worth a visit. It is in Bishopbriggs Glasgow. There are open days when you might be lucky to get a ticket. David Mousdale's fortune came from Optical Express.

Confused me. Saying that all my cars were old school seven pin and no reverse sensors etc. Not a bad thing though. Nothing worse than the glare of a fog light bouncing of a caravan back at you. Alasdair

Perhaps time for them to try another valve replacement.

Feels like we are getting there with the rebuild, last night we got Injectors back with all new seals Cooling system largely reconnected (There are sooooo many little coolant hoses!!) Charge air cooler refitted with new gaskets Seems so little when you write it down but there was so many little fiddly jobs that just ate up time, back at it again tonight, hopefully get it started today, but we have been saying that for the last 2 days... so maybe, maybe not!

Just a quick update to the thread, both to keep this documented for future reference and in case someone has a fresh idea or a similar experience to share. Since my last post, the dealership went ahead and replaced the Engine ECU. The result? Absolutely no change. I picked up the car yesterday, turned the ignition on, and immediately got the Start-Stop error. Within two ignition cycles, the Check Engine Light was back with the exact same static code: P25AB00 (Piston Cooling Oil Control Circuit High) on a cold start. To recap, the entire chain is now 100% brand new OEM: New Oil Control Valve N522 (06K115243L) New Engine Wiring Harness New Engine ECU If anyone has any new insights or has seen this happen on Superb 2022 2.0 TSI 280HP, please let me know. I'm completely baffled.

@Dready I recorded mine.. is it similiar to your noise? Bremsenknarzen.m4a

Kendrick. Yes, I realised what happened with the MFD at the service. I've sometimes previously had to reset ACC values following a service, though these days I stick with the default settings. Thanks for warning about brake fluid, but I think the garage testing tests for exactly that - moisture content, but I'll check with them. Most cars I've owned seem to suffer brake pad rattle after a while - Yeti, Saab 9-5, Peugeots - pads rattling inside calipers when driving over broken road surfaces. No plan to change at the moment, as garage said they are OK. Unlike previous cars, Karoq isolates well from external noise & only hear it when windows are open setting off to cool car before aircon gets up & running.

Can this sensor impact so much on engine running this bad ?

Link to download MSTD_EU_SK_P6230 (0490) sent in PM

@pab567 Hello, do you have update to my infortainment?

Yes I did. I ve done MAF sensor test and it was ok. Should I change this glow plug with sensor or is he triggered by something else ? Car started jerking this morning with no power to get easy in 2nd gear. So I left it on parking until I find some solution. Please help

This noise occurs when I go over 80 km/h. It comes from the right rear wheel. What could it be? You also have to drive for 10 minutes before the noise starts.Skoda missljud.m4a

Not many speed humps but plenty of ruts and potholes. I accept the pressures are lower than ideal for the ride comfort. Let this be a warning to anyone who does the same. I will get the tracking checked and see what is out of true. When I had a new Ford Granada back in the 1990's it ran the original tyres for 40,000 miles. I commuted motorway miles each day but even so that is a little different to today. Now I have tested the Yokohams and the feel of the car was an instant improvement. It was smoother and quieter. So I recommend them for this car. 235/45 R18 94 W YOKOHAMA BluEarth GT (AE-51) RPB

I had issues with this little bast*rd on my previous Octavia 3 pre-FL - also started at around 75k miles(120k kms). Also vibrations under load especially when driving uphill(I was on vacation; fully loaded :D ). The P/N of the latest revision I see is 5Q0 521 307. It was previously 1K0 521 307 A

Ah no, close. My Wife Hates This Car. She's on the fence about the Fabia for the moment based on the last load of cars. But I think if it works out she'll hate it because of the big dent the previous owner put on the front wing. I've never seen an MOT on a car explicitly point out a dented front wing, but my Fabia has that. And I'm kind of loathed to change it because of it. That's a whole other story really. Injectors needed doing, that cost me £1,800 (and that's just parts and me doing it). Air suspension broke and was a PITA to fix. Bit of welding too. It was my dream car really, always wanted one (well I wanted an Amazon but was talked out of it), only way I'd buy one now is if it was cheap and knackered and I had the time to restore it. That's the only way I'd guarantee it to be bomb proof. I think people just buy them and Toyotas in general and take "reliable" to mean "don't need to look after it".

I have the 2023 2.0 TSI Sportline, so I imagine the headlights operate the same. I have the light switch always set to Auto, when I start the car when headlights are needed they come, the beans go up and then come down I assume this is checking the auto levelling mechanism is working correctly. I then move the stalk to Msjn beam position and the dashboard main beam lamp either illuminates blue for main beam or white if dipped beam is in use. I think there is a setting in the Infotainment screen for light settings to activate/deactivate auto main beam/dipped beam. At light I tend to drive on auto main beam all the time, leaving the Karoq to adjust the headlamp beam as required to suit traffic conditions- so far if has worked flawlessly. Has you Karoq had an MOT recently as that will have checked the headlamp beams are aligned correctly- maybe they have switch off the auto dip to check the beam patterns?

0359

Here's a video of its twin - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=73jYDqM6RaQ And potentially it - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-Mw3axLEcs I mean... at least you don't have to worry about the DPF.