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Hello, I'm looking for advice concerning a used car that's being sold from a dealership, the car has 66000km and has followed every service with one owner. The timing chain is stretched, but they will replace it with an upgraded one before delivery at my request, but I noticed that the clutch bite point was very high during my test drive, is this normal? I own an automatic Fabia from the same generation, so I'm not not familiar with the manual clutches. As of now the clutch engages the gear at about 75-90% disengagement (when I let out the pedal), which feels a lot like a worn out clutch from a previous vehicle I've driven. I did try putting the car in high gear during a slight hill with low speed (40km/h and 4th gear, don't know if this is aggressive enough) without any increased RPM and a normal slow acceleration. I also tried putting the handbrake on and keeping the engine at 2k rpm, then slowly releasing the clutch to see when it stalled, it took a long time, but stalled around 80-90% disengagement. Appreciate any and all advice, the contract for the car needs to be signed tomorrow to keep my reservation 😅

Yes Lee. Heating and only on the outer seats too. They’ve never produced a Superb with cooled rear seats as there’s no gap under the seat base to fit the fans or to allow the disposal of the air. The system draws the air through and thereby away from the seat base rather than blowing it through, which what the wife’s Kona EV does.

Hello, I have a Fabia Mk2 Greenline estate (1.4 tdi 80hp) & need to replace my front suspension. But I am struggling to find out what springs I need to buy (will replace them while I am in there). My local GSF asked if my car was lowered, no was my obvious answer, but she said it was to a degree, being the Greenline. I have brought some Monroe shocks (16451) & top mount (with bearing), but am having issues with finding a replacement spring. I have been told that the OE part number is 6Q0 411 105 AE. The existing spring has 3 red & 1 green colour markings on it. This is my first time doing any work on my car (did change the drum shoes & cylinders last week) & have never had a need to look for any car parts before. Is anybody able to help me or point me in the right direction of the new springs to buy. Thanks, Matt

This is a long one, so pop the kettle on and grab the bickys. Fintin is my wife's Roomster, a nippy 2013 1.2 TDI Scout. Now for someone who says they love their car, you'd think they take better care of it. My wife treats Fintin like he's some sort of rally car. The car was grand mechanically and visually up until a Van drove up the backside of it last year. The driver accepted responsibility and said they'd get it fixed but handed it back with problems that were none existent before. Now, yes she could have listened to me and gone through the Insurance, car would've be written off and she'd be driving a different Skoda based car or gone back to the chaps who "fixed" it or even gone to a different mechanic and billed the Van Courier Company Owner but that would intail actually listening to her Husband. So here's were I get to step in, an amateur mechanic at best, I know only what I need to know to get by and save myself a few shillings. She starts by telling me the coolant and oil in the car are low and that Google says it's because of the hot weather......, I'm thinking head gaskets done but there was hope, no milk in the engine or expansion tank, maybe a cracked hose somewhere but no leakage found. I check the dipstick, it's clean, not even a mm of the black stuff, I grab a litre of oil from the local garage and pop it in, 20mins later i do a dipstick test again, it's above the max, now im scratching my head becauseit has a 4.3ltr oil capacity not a 1tr capacity. I do an oil change along with the oil filter and top up the coolant. I'll check it again in a few days. Next, the rear arch trim is hanging off, whatever adhesive that was used (after the crash) to glue it to the car has quit. Most likely the wrong adhesive mixed with the shape of the arch being off after a bad panel beating. I realise in order to fix it, I need to remove the inner wheel arch liner, tyre off, what do I see, she has worn the brake pads down to the bare metal....., I ask her does she hear the brakes squealing at all and she says 'sure i play the radio when im driving'..... new pads and discs ordered (Saturday job). I remove the old adhesive, grind the backside of the trim to fit the shape of the fender/arch, grab a tough outdoor adhesive, a C clamp and bingo bongo (left overnight) it's fixed to the car. Next up, the rear door that was replaced and resprayed the wrong colour, appears to be from a 2007 model along with the rear bumper, paint ordered for respray but not before it's all sanded (don't know when I'll get round to that). Wiper arm and nozzle replaced because she wanted them replaced and had ordered them from Shein, she can now use the rear spray. Rear door rattles, no bump stop on right side, currently searching online for replacement, skoda fabia has similar ones. Next, before the crash, the car had 4 black painted OEM alloys, when the car was returned, 3 alloys are silver and one is black. She wants them all black again, i spray paint the black one silver 😆 job done. Next, I noticed the plasti dip job she asked for on the exterior trim 3yrs ago is peeling, so I remove one side, easy enough, with a bit of white spirit, I go to the other side of the car, it does nothing, im confused and ask her if she did anything, yes, she saw it peeling and spray painted it black.... 3hrs later, high as a kite on paint stripper, job done, 2 days later, I still have paint embedded in my hands. Another job for later is to fill in the deep scratches in the front bumper and respray to a colour matched perfection. Well thats my rant over, im not one for taking pics of before and afters so yas will just have to use your imaginations.

Have done. Thank you muchly.

Great thank you 👍🏻

I'm assuming you think I'm refering to vehicle length ?.....I'm not. Below is what I googled.👍 The wheelbase of a 2018 Skoda Octavia is 2,686 mm (2.686 meters or about 105.7 inches). This measurement is identical for both the hatchback (liftback) and estate (wagon) variants built on the Volkswagen Group's MQB platform. The 2018 Audi A4 has a wheelbase of 111 inches (2,820 mm). This measurement applies uniformly across the standard B9 sedan and Avant (station wagon) configurations.

What he said. Also, instead of doing a bodge, what's wrong with Maxton or Reiger?

Ah that’s annoying. This is the kodiaq one from the same brand as I used: https://a.aliexpress.com/_EQe9mI6

I bought a similar module from Ali too. But I never succeeded in making it work. Initializing process always failed. Fortunately it was quite cheap… It then finished in the bin… 🤷‍♂️

Tell them to sort a second key and get it all (including the key you've got and the immobiliser) recoded.

I bought a Karoq, one year old, £27000, approved used from main dealer. Halfway through doing the paperwork they told me there was only one key and that the other one would likely turn up. After two weeks they haven't contacted me. On the terms of buying an approved car I see I can return it within 30 days if it has a fault and get another car for the same price or more if I pay difference. I don't want to deal with this garage again, very poor customer service and would rather get a full refund. Is that possible? one key, if I lose it what can I do? Would they class not having a second key as a fault?

Every now and then, a rather loud, serious male voice announces that there is "a five minute delay due to traffic congestion ahead" (For those of a certain age, it sounds like the guy who did the nuclear attack warning from the 80s that had a starring role on Frankie's "Two Tribes" 12" single...). It's way louder than the Car Play voice announcements (and my Siri and Google Maps are a nice northern lady), and it's not the Voice of Skoda either (which is also female, and quieter). The ONLY thing this voice ever announces is Traffic Congestion. It may be associated with Traffication, but I can't find the "Traffication" app anywhere in the menus that my online searches suggest I should be able to find it in, and I don't know why it would be turned on, anyway -- I've never signed up for or activated it. I've looked through various menus and setting screens both generic and my own user settings, and I cannot find any way to turn it off. It's frankly, annoying (and makes me jump every time it blares out), and I'd really like to know how to silence this dude... anyone had the same problem and found a remedy? best, M.

Looks great!

Hi All, Does anyone know the tightening torques for the front wheel bearing pack, please? (a) the three splined screws that hold the bearing pack in from the back of the hub and; (b) the big, 24mm, 12-point hub nut that goes into the end of the driveshaft

Search for ECS Tuning, as previously posted. I just wrapped over the decal because I didn't want the advertising. You need to look in the Golf 7 section.

If traffic is in near gridlock and just creeping along for mile after mile then that is what you need to do. Google and AI is wonderful but neither have to drive in the real world, A720 Edinburgh City By-pass or the likes. Foot off brake pedal and clutches engaged, light accelerator or no accelerator. Just not accelerator and brake pedal. Maybe into S to keep the RPM up.

Hi. If you needed any help with insurance at all then please feel free to drop me a line. Regards, Dan.

I'm not craving additional power but if someone can sort a workround...

Photos, how to guide and list of parts I used in this post : - Thanks. AG Falco

Can you describe the OEM behaviour of the lights? Do they increase in intensity with proximity? Do they behave differently if you are indicating at the same time as something in your blind spot? Going to have a go at fitting my non-OEM kit this week and see how it compares. Will then look to connect to OEM lights in the wing mirrors if it works well. Also can you describe how much coding was required and did you have to remove component protection? Just in case I decide to go down the OEM route.

Ours is 71 plate. Bought September 2021. Very early facelift mk1. And has no driver aids other then front assist for crash prevention. I guess this was probably the last of the models without them as it’s close to yours @Bap33 in age. I haven’t tried disabling start stop. But I have used a module from AliExpress in my superb which works very well. Have you considered that?

I have a 2021 L&K and I have heated and cooling front seats but the rear are only heated. Perhaps you have the same? @numskull - you have a 2016 L&K? Do you have heated and cooled front and heated-only rear?

I took it to a tuner a couple of weeks ago and they said they could either send the ECU to Germany to be unlocked or I can just wait until somebody in the future finds a way to unlock it. The only other option is to get a tuning box but I’m not really very keen on these as they just trick the ECU. I will probably just leave it as standard for the time being

Yeah, i came from a Tdi 184 Octy but she had to go due to change of job / routine. I'll get used to it, it's a neat car and i'm happy, nearly mint conditi9n for 2 years old. So there's no way round tbe locked ECU ?