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As there are no further updates available for the colombus unit in my superb, thought I `d try Waze for the satnav? As far as I can tell phone is set up correctly and paired to the car no issues, but I cannot get any voulme through the car speakers like it`s supposed to do. Anyone had similar issues and know how to get it to work or is my colombus just not compatible? 2014 Lauren +Klement Superb Estate..

How do you check this max privacy ?

Some applications cannot be updated while you are driving. Try stopping the car, apply the handbrake and see if the app will update with the ignition on but engine off. Also check you are not on max privacy. If it won't then a trip to the dealer my be needed.

I might have answered my own question. It appears the mk3 chassis is different to the mk2 so you need a different towbar. Pity. Still it means I now have a mk2 towbar to sell😃

Hello all. I've owned my current Octavia 1.5tsi dsg SEL estate for around 8 months, now. It's on an 20 plate with fssh, 50k from new. I have a very intermittent screeching noise that seems to be coming from the mid to front end of my car. Occasionally occurs, after the car is fully warmed up, with or without the aircon on, only under heavy load or from a hill start, once moving with my foot down a bit. It's a screeching type sound that lasts for around 2 seconds. Not during tick over, but could occur at any speed. Originally I thought it may have been the aircon compressor or compressor pully, but I've now realised that it can occur with the aircon off or on. I dont think its a brake related or wheel related sound. My thoughts, dsg, alternator belt? I don'tthink its at the point where it would be easy to diagnose, as its not constant. I also have a Skoda extended warranty, until Nov, but at this point I don't think I'd waste my money having Skoda look at it, until I was a bit more sure what may be causing it and if it was easily diagnosed/replicated. Any ideas? Thanks.

The car was getting me down a bit this week as there was hesitation in 2nd and 3rd, vibration in the cab from an uneven idle and the issues on start up. I was messing about with the pipes and took the one pictured off and put it on again and everything has went back to normal. The car is responsive and you can’t even hear it running. No idea what I’ve done, perhaps cleared an airlock or in typical mechanic fashion they’ve maybe not put the pipe back on again properly and there’s been an air leak. Thank goodness for that.

Did you remove it? 😊 In Octavia 2 we pull last part in direction of edge like slide phone. Corners have forks.

Between 5-10 😂

We managed with a Fabia estate with two kids so I'd expect you'll be fine with a Karoq. It'll be a fair bit bigger than a Q2. The Kodiaq is quite a bit longer and has a massive boot but if your parking in London is tight you might struggle a bit with it as it's only a smidge shorter than most traditional parking spaces which are only 4.8m

https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/lifestyle/chainsaws-and-sparklers-discover-the-traditions-of-rally-fans/ Škoda StoryboardMeet the Peaq: Comfort Just Like at Home - Škoda StoryboardThe interior of the Škoda Peaq electric vehicle is literally an oasis of calm. It offers comfort and relaxation not only while driving but also pampers passengers even while charging. See how the engi

That may explain my late MK2 octavia as its not nearly as responsive as my old one. Its probably as you suspect factory programmed throttle lag to reduce emissions. Did read you can change it with vcds but not sure how. Someone on here will know. Had a quick google and AI came up with this but it is AI so I would be wary of messing up ecu until sure The Mod: Change the Throttle Response behavior from "Gradual/Incremental" to "Direct / Controlled by Threshold". [1] VCDS / OBDeleven Path: Go to Control Module 44 (Steering Assist). Select Adaptation 10. Find the channel named "Driving Profile Switchover" (or Kennlinien der Lenkung). Change the value from Incremental, controlled over time to Direct, controlled over threshold. [1] The Result: It makes the pedal mimic an old-school cable-driven throttle. The computer acts instantly on how deep you push the pedal, rather than waiting to see how long you hold it down

Skoda includes the Direct TPMS instructions in the manual because they build heavy-duty fleet versions and armoured/high-security variants of the Superb that do require live pressure sensors. However, for standard UK/European consumer models, Skoda only installs the Indirect ABS-based TPMS If your car actually had the system shown in the manual, it would require physical wireless sensor valves inside each wheel. If you have standard rubber or standard metal valves and the car forces you to manually hit 'SET' in the menu, your car has the standard indirect system and will never show the numbers My Skoda has the similar screens for tyre pressure as yours.

Hi guys sorry I know this is an old thread. I had the same issues and changed my bulb but its not working. A mechanic told me it could be the balast or something. Can it b3 checked without ordering a new one or taking the whole light out as its a ball ache.

Hi! I just got a used Skoda Fabia 2018 (MK3 NJ) manual 5D style 1.0 TSI 95hp. I know this is not a performance or sports car - and I’m not after advanced tuning - but there is one thing that is annoying me. Compared to my older Skoda Fabia Mk2 the older car had a much more direct gas response. The new car has significant lag when pressing the gas pedal especially switching gears - it takes a whole second before it even reacts which making shifting really jerky. Specifically when going from gear 1 to gear 2, I switch around 3000 rpm and with the gas pedal to the floor it takes like a second before anything happens and there is significant drop in revving I suspect this is some artificial lag introduced based on some European law euro emission savings or similar. I have access to vas5054a odis, vcds and odb11, I am in no way a pro, but I’ve been able to do some coding and flashing on my superb successfully. Grateful for any pointers or help on any low hanging fruits here

Hi, We’ve got one 2 year old child and a second due next January. We live in London and currently have an Audi Q2. We are looking to upgrade but aren’t sure whether a Karoq is big enough/ enough of a change? The Kodiaq looks great but also wondering if it’s too big for London? Any advice would be much appreciated! Thanks

These are other photos:

First of all sorry for this new topic. As it is written in the users’ manuel and as i saw on the internet our cars should be show the tyre pressure values individually. That is to say; when i push the ‘tyre’ on the screen i should be able to see tire pressure seperetaly for each tire. I should be able to see pressure value numerically as one tyre’s pressure is 2.2 psi, the other one 2.5 psi and like this. Now there is no any information. I add photos which shows the situation.

Did my old toyota a few years ago and needed special o rings From memory they were green in colour as normal o rings degrade. According to google HNBR (Hydrogenated Nitrile Butadiene Rubber) so reckon skoda oem is the way to go. Alasdair

Hi Every time I drive my Kamiq, it asks me on centre display if I want to update applications I always click yes. Today it asked again - so I clicked on more info, to which I got this message. What do I need to do to fix this please anyone ? Thanks in advance Steve

Thank you for your help. Last night i tried the car. The road was 2 lane expressive way. My setting was the setting that you mentioned. There was only one lane. Unfortunately i cannot test the car on highways. The nearist highway is 250 km away. So i will be able to see the tesult i have a trip including highway. By the way these are my settings:

Yes, you need the right type of o-ring. No, you shouldn't lose any significant amount of refrigerant when changing the seal/sensor, there's a valve under it that closes as it is removed. PAG oil for lube. If it's the original pressure sensor it could easily be leaking through itself, rather than at the o-ring seal, I suspect.

The all weathers start life with more tread depth.

Hi. Tbe o rings are special rubber so they don't rot. If there is still pressure in the system it will need recovering first. Illegal to deliberately release to the atmosphere. To oil the O ring use the appropriate LAG oil for the system. Going to need a garage with AC equipment. Good luck

My fronts were measured at 4mm and rears at 5 mm, which is more than I expect, but they are Goodyear all-weather, so I suspect a bit of a softer compound. But Mrs says the big difference is the car never aquaplanes when it rains very heavily, which both of our Golfs (Mk7.5 and Mk8) on Bridgestones did. So I'll probably replace them like for like next summer when we get to 20,000 miles or 2.5mm whichever comes first; annoying but I do absolutely love the car and it is heavy, so like the higher road tax, it's an accepted cost of ownership. Your tyre wear, however, does sound concerning, assuming you check pressure regularly and drive it like a Tourer rather than with gusto? Had Pirellis on some of my former warm/hot hatches (XR3, Mini Cooper S) and, as I recall, they did wear more than expected, perhaps more sticky and hence softer, as a performance brand?

Got the ISO file, burned it to cd and everything works perfect now.