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Also to add "Isn't the pumping hard with the engine off just depleting the servo vacuum though, nothing to do with compressing the air in the system by ramming more fluid in?" Yes, I'm sure it is. But the differance is the ABS unit is off. I can only report the symptoms I had and I think it is because the ABS pump is not in an active state, valves in it closed etc. I can only report what happened in practise until someone with confirmed knowledge tells me why. The thing is if it was seals in the master cyclinder then the same seals would let by with the engine off, yes I can see more foot pressure needed as you'd have no servo assist but the pedal would not be rock solid with hard pressure even with the engine off.

MFG connect using app now only 59 pence a kWh.

Certainly the DSG in ours drives just fine. It changes up just about as early as is reasonable, and I think the downchange on braking from speed is something it's supposed to do. The only time I've ever used Sport or manual changes in ours is for experimentation - I've never felt the need to use them in normal use. Maybe newer cars are a bit different - could the OP have a more sporty mode being used by default in the driver profile (or drive mode)?

Interesting, with my car i have done some "preventive" maintenance and it would seem that dpf cleaning is one thing to consider also. As I said earlier i have now almost 250kkm or 155t miles on the dash and the dpf is original and never been cleaned before. I dont have any symptoms yet with dpf clogging but maybe im asking when would i need to do that job? When the regens happen more frequently and there is a dpf warning light on the dash, maybe? I have now and then checked with obd11 the distance last travelled before a regen has occured and i would say its in between 250-400km depending of my everyday driving trips. Is this normal distance between regens? In the Octavia 3 its a big job to get the dpf out of the engine bay, you have to drop the subframe, thank god i dont have all-wheel drive, even more job involved.

Ah, OK. Glad it's finally sorted.

It's that time of year again when I prepare for winter in the Scottish Highlands. I need to buy a new set of tyres, so I am looking for advice from you about what you prefer to use. I have a spare set of wheels, so I want full winter tyres rather than 'all seasons' that can be swapped out when the season changes. I need tyres that will cope with cold wet conditions and temperatures close to freezing. We often get periods lasting up to a couple of weeks with lying snow on side streets, although the main roads do (eventually) get ploughed. I have the 265PS AWD engine, so there is plenty of power to control. My priority is for safe and comfortable handling rather than performance. Given those requirements, my shortlist is Michelin Pilot Alpin 5 or Pirelli P Zero Winter 2 based on online reviews. Do you have any experience with these or any alternative recommendations? What have you been pleased with, or are there any tyres that you have regretted buying?

Unortunately, you are right, you need MFSW either from Superb Mk2 or Yeti. I think some from O2 will also work but not sure which ones.

The DSG box "learns" driving patterns, so maybe the previous owner hammered it. Try a reset.

There are 5 high speed dual charging stations at a small retail park around the corner to us, they worked for approx. 2 days after opening before being covered over as "unavailable", 5 weeks on the covers slashed and leads had been cut off, been like that now for 6 months. It's no wonder me getting an EV is receding in my mind. I believe the infrastructure supplying the retail units was underrated for the chargers in the first place, excellent planning

Ok thanks. Am I right in saying that a MK3 steering wheel with paddles and multi function won't work? My current pre face lift is multi function.

Truth , Girvan harbour DC charger still out of order 2 months on. Charge place Scotland today, female calm handler said, wasted my time calling to report again as the council knows and no more CPS can do. That is because the system is sh!te.

Oft a way to reduce or negate the cost. I have two wallboxes but did not fully pay for either. First one had government grant for most of the cost, that was under the Con party. Second one was a freebie when the Scenic one European Car of The Year. Both will add value to the house when I sell the house next year as increasingly it is something new owners expect to see as a fitment to houses.

I bought a couple of Morfit cushions. These have made the seats more bearable on long journeys. I've been surprised at how - almost all of the time - the low power of the 1.4 TDi engine has not been a problem. In general driving it's fast enough for me and my wife's driving style. The only time I've noticed a lack of performance, was when joining the A1 from Stamford, when putting the foot down produced unimpressive acceleration - when compared to our 2010 BMW 330D auto.

I have a 2019 1.0 DSG with ACC and love both aspects. I don't have much problem with the infotainment either, but mine's an older simpler version with oldy worldy non virtual fixed speedo etc. My DSG in the 1.0 seems to behave very differently to yours, as it seems to want to change smoothly into a higher gear,as soon as possible, so much so that it almost seems as if the engine is labouring on steepish hills. I like it that way however, as it's so easy and pleasurable to pull the gear stick back into sport for hills and for power in overtaking, for which there is surprisingly plenty from that little 3cycl engine. It also wants to stay in top when coasting downhill, which I also like. The main DSG downside is less then ideal moving from standstill ,particularly for a quick getaway - a well documented DSG issue, but the rather fierce accelerator pedal setting doesn' t help + pedals could be better located. I've bored people here too often before saying how much I like the ACC on my car, so much so I wouldn't buy another car without it, but mine is an older version without the additional slowing for bends feature etc., which I believe you can anyway switch out. In previous cars I used to find ordinary CC frustrating in anything other than roads with light traffic. ACC reduces my right foot 'tiresome pedalling' significantly on busy motorways. Not perfect though, as it's slow to react to a car jumping in front of me or to log off from a car I've been stuck behind then want to overtake in a faster lane. This does actually keep me constantly alert to what other cars around me are doing, realising I can't rely 100% on technology. I do seem to anticipate more, looking further ahead, than I did before ACC came along, so that's an upside. it took me a little while to adjust my driving style to suit ACC and get familiar with the way it behaves, but maybe I'm a slow learner. Interesting you like lane assist. I don't have this and it does seem to be the feature that attracts most criticism in Briskoda. I'd like to try it though so as to make up my own mind.

Fitted, a Bosch variety, and a 2 mile run has proved the sensor was the problem! A little advice if anyone has the same problem, opt for a genuine Bosch piece - 4 or 5 years ago i tried one of the cheap chinese jobs ---- it didn't work, A friend confirmed their operating characteristics cover a different range, be warned!

Manufacturer of part, not car, recommends machine cleaning on 150000 miles, resetting ASH volume. you can do it or no. like lifetime oil in gearbox and other ****.

I got an emissions system warning light on a trip to Prague recently on my 186,000 mileage 2016 Skoda Superb 1.6 TDi Greenline. The car drove fine, all the way back to London. My diagnostics tablet indicated a glow plug fault on Cylinder 1. When I clear the fault it returns within a day or two, usually after a cool morning start. I already have torque wrenches, a socket set, a set of large circlip pliers and penetrating oil. This morning I've ordered a Bosch glow plug (BOS0250403009) from GSF, as well as a Wolfbox MF100 battery electric air blower and and Liqui Moly glow plug grease from ebay. I'll be using the circlip pliers to help remove the electrical connection. And a combination of penetrating oil and a torque wrench and a hot engine and patience over a few days to remove the old glow plug. Fingers crossed that this will be a straight-forward DIY job...

Still be less expensive to retain your old ICE car unless it requires thousands of pounds beibg spent on it. It costs around a thousand to have a home charger installed.

While I have no issue with your statement, you may find that a lot of cars show "accumulated ash" value at or near the limit coded in the ECU far earlier, around 100000mile mark, which again points to ECU signalling an imaginary problem using an imaginary ash value in order to either trade in the car or pay for a new DPF halfway through its life... just my opinion.

if I use the paddles on mine it displays M and the gear number if I don’t use the paddles to change up the DSG changes up at the redline to protect the engine and gearbox - which is the same as sport mode.

i have these, on 2WD, and will buy them again. Bridgestone Turanza All Season 6 235/45 R20 W (100) XL https://www.blackcircles.com/brands/bridgestone/turanza-all-season-6/235-45-r20-w-100?tyre=46696682 also other sizes available.

@minsy that is a really unusual behaviour from a DSG gearbox, I’ve driven DSG cars since 2013, currently have wet clutch DSG in the Karoq and dry clutch in the Fabia, previously had a VW Touran with wet clutch DSG never experienced anything like you have described. In everyday driving they have all changed all up between 1500 and 2000 rpm unless the throttle is pushed to the floor when they change up at the red line. I do know that the DSG adapts to driving style: I tow a twin axle car trailer, both the petrol Karoq and previous diesel VW Touran would hang on to the lower gears and change down when easing off on down hill sections for a day or so until they re-adapted to driving solo.

Sorry, I mixed up N522 (Oil Pressure Control Valve) and N523 (Piston Cooling Oil Control Valve). N523 was replaced three times (because the error code directly indicated this valve), but the actual culprit was N522, which they hadn't touched until my last visit. It turns out I had the wrong valve in mind right from the start. I kept saying N522 was replaced, but it was actually N523.

There seems to be a huge disconnect between what car manufacturers say about Diesel Particulate Filters (DPFs) and what actual parts makers and service technicians recommend. Car manufacturers often treat the DPF as a component that lasts until it completely clogs up, after which the official recommendation in the dealership is usually an expensive total replacement. However, automotive component manufacturers and repair professionals recommend preventive cleaning of particulate filters, particularly DPFs, between 150,000 and 200,000 miles. The main focus here is the clearance of accumulated residual ash, which cannot be burned off during normal vehicle driving or standard regeneration (since active and passive regeneration only handle soot, not ash). Letting the ash accumulate until total failure puts extreme thermal stress on the ceramic core and raises backpressure, which can heavily strain your turbo and engine. Doing a professional cleaning at higher mileages helps prolong component life and avoids a costly full replacement.

Depends who you are. If Saudi linked watch out. Talking to one of my colleagues they are completing massive extra paperwork for insurance going thru Red Sea and that sets the extra insurance premium plus Suez transition fees are up hugely too as Egypt was not getting its massivc canal revenue. I gather more Saudi oil is getting thru Hormuz and the pipeline has been repaired so flows ar me good at tge moment but it will take weeks or months for that oil to bring the prices down to prewar levels so well in to next year probably.