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No. RHD. Does that make a difference?

That's the same update @MartiniB posted in July, thanks for the repost, can't wait for the next one.

I hope those r not the Golf compatible SuperPro LCAs.....cause they'll b short, width-wise, by a 14.5mm, on the Superb. Which will affect the camber of ur front wheels. Good luck with the install for all the stuff.

Update: I feel stupid now, but in my offense it's Skoda's fault for not naming things correctly 😄 So I just went into the instrument cluster, navigated to Assistant > Enabled CORNERING lights I thought cornering lights were those with fog lamps, and dynamic or bend lighting like shown in comment above should be AFS switch ON/OFF, but I was wrong. After enabling the cornering lights I now see them move when I turn. Thank both of you for your comments! PS. The skoda is from 2009.

Ooooh you're definitely getting very warm but not quite cooking with gas yet....

There appears to be a lot of confusion with eBay sellers regarding this part and nobody selling a new part appears to have a clue as to the version that they are selling despite all claiming to be equivalent to OE 1K0907659. I ordered the Febi version and it too is LIN as I've now managed to find my logic analyzer and can see the PWM and LIN signals distinctly (@Breezy_Pete your assumption appears to be correct). The LIN version appears to draw about 60~mA where as the PWM version draws 10mA. This makes sense given the higher data rate of LIN part. My original sensor appears to send roughly 80ms LOW, 80ms HIGH, 20ms LOW, 60ms HIGH in that order. LIN is significantly faster. The failure mode of my original sensor is that it unfortunately stops communicating after 45s every time it is powered on. I wonder if the later Yeti's used the LIN part, mine is a preface lift? Presumably only the clilmatronic control panel would need to be updated to accommodate that.

Yeah, different times though. I've got a Cordoba with the old VE engine in that I will literally pour any old **** in. Modern diesels are a different game.

Well, Jeep Prime Meridian would sound a bit silly wouldn't it!

https://pluscenter.co.uk/products/skoda-octavia-mk3-rapid-2013-2019-android-15-car-stereo-head-unit-carplay-android-auto?srsltid=AfmBOoo0TUz_Q2bwnqLqLSQivFAuKCgKTOU3qd36d7cyLZjWsCOHe7H8 Might just go for that as a direct replacement and keep original functions.

Greetings fellow octavia owners. I have a 1.4 TSI SEL 2017. A few months ago I replaced the steering wheel with a VRS wheel from the same year octavia. It didn't come with an airbag but the airbag from the old wheel appeared to be correct in terms of part number and fitment. I have noticed recently a squeaking / creaking noise coming from the top of the airbag when going over bumps and when applying gentle pressure to it. Not sure if there is a slight variation in the vrs wheel. The top lip of the airbag appears to be rubbing slightly on the top of the wheel. Just wondered if anyone had come across this issue before please and how they fixed it. Im wondering if a bit of light lubrication on the underside of the top edge of the airbag might help. Thanks in advance ☺️

Jeep Compass?

I have the detachable towbar and the virtual pedal works with it stored of on use. But the coordinated kick/wave and step back I don’t always manage to achieve.

The handbook for my old SEAT Toledo 1.9SDI recommended adding a certain amount of petrol to the diesel (I forget the ratio) in the winter if you lived in colder climates.

Ok I'll give you another clue .. It's a general purpose outlaw with a model designation that references a geographical coordinate system passing through the Greenwich Observatory

No, SD Card Solution work Only by Navi

I want to understand the following things: I have a unit that has SW train starting with MST2… and ending with …T. The unit however doesn’t have NAV, and has a single SD card slot. Will this solution still work for me? Which OBD tool was used in video, can you suggest one that already worked for this specific project for you? What happens if the process fails in between in some step, if the unit soft-bricks or some other issue comes? Is there a way to go back to the original existing configuration?

I wouldn't chance it in a modern diesel that I cared about. Older diesels were normally ok with up to 25% petrol.

I think job cuts were always on the table. Once they moved to low volume and only two models (I think there is another in the pipeline) it was almost certain. It looks to me like they are aiming to be a lower priced Aston type of manufacturer, with initially very low sales, moving up to simply low-volume sales. Initial reviews seem to think the car is superb in all the things that a Jaguar should embody, but I can't see that saving them. They need something beautiful as an opening number, not brutal and minimalist. Mind you, I can see rappers buying them.

This is really bothering me now 😳🤔 I'm getting frustrated at my lack of ability with the clues 😖

one thought is to check door seals, windscreen seals (I had a Picasso with a perished seal that seeped water around the back of the glass) and maybe the grommets where the electrics come through the bulkhead. Good luck on this, its a nightmare trying to find leaks often starting well away from where the puddle is

The Fabia MK3's spare wheel (185/60R15 6Jx15 ET38) has an outside diameter 3.0% smaller than the Fabia MK4's spare wheel (185/65R15 5.5Jx15 ET40). Additionally, the Fabia MK3's spare wheel (185/60R15 6Jx15 ET38) has an inflated width that is about 6mm wider than the Fabia MK4's spare wheel (185/65R15 5.5Jx15 ET40). The offset is also 2mm different, ie. ET38 vs ET40. That additional 6mm in inflated width, might result in the carpet being lifted...but you would have to check if you just happened to have an old Fabia MK3 spare wheel lying around. The 2mm reduction in offset might also add to the carpet lifting problem that can occur when the wrong spare wheel is used in the spare wheel well.

My radio has started to distort at low volume and high volume but it's much more notice bake at low volume. I do drive the amp and speakers loud a lot of the time but I am also and ex sound engineer ao I do know how hard they can be driven safely. I'm guessing at the most as I have not done any diagnostics yet other than pressing and holding the power button for 10 secs til the unit reboots and the logo cones up but that makes no difference. I'm thinking of changing the radio to an aftermarket one is there any that fit the hole without needing fascia panels and keeps as many of the cars original functions like on the old screen at all?? Haven't really got round to looking into it yet, but I'll probably be getting rid next year. Any thoughts or suggestions on decent ish replacments as above??

Going back to the thread title, it's looking increasingly unlikely with talk of 4,000 job cuts. I think I read that for each job lost in the manufacturing of a car, that could be three jobs in the supply chain so as many as 16,000 jobs at risk. Sad times for all at risk.

Is that not the one posted above.

I've owned this car for 14 years and have a growing appreciation for it. Loved it for the first 3-4 years, then for a while it just became another tool to be used - partly for financial reasons, I just kept it going with the bare minimum (cheap tyres, interim services instead of full, etc). But then 2-3 years ago (as electric and hybrid cars were becoming more common), I looked into getting a new car and realised just how expensive that would be! Thought I'd rather try to keep this one going for as long as possible, even though my wife doesn't quite see eye-to-eye with me on that one - haha! "I hate that car - I don't understand why you don't just get a new one??" ...like I've got £30k tucked down the back of the sofa...?! So... I started looking into the key wear-and-tear and long-term "engine killer" items for it, and have been trying to remedy as many of them as financially possible over the last 12-18 months. I'm under no delusions that I can make the car last forever, but it feels like it's got a fair bit of life left in it, as long as I start proactively looking after it with some preventative maintenance... rather than just living MOT-to-MOT and only fixing what I'm told to. Trying to find the balance is a bit tough, though - not being a mechanic, knowing where to draw the line between what's worth fixing/replacing, and what is just throwing money away.