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Hi @Cairus thanks for this thread. I am in the same situation. I bought a used cluster (5E0920790A) and approached multiple dealerships, but they refused to adapt the cluster. I recently tried to apply for the permission myself and it got rejected—I think mainly because of the GEKO account used for the application. I am now planning to try swapping the immobilizer data. I found someone who is willing to help me do this, and I believe he is using VVDI2. Will this work? Can you please share some more info if possible?

To those who have said the DQ200 shouldn’t start off in 2nd, I would agree it shouldn’t. Neither our dq200 Fabia or dq381 Karoq start off from stationary in 2nd it’s always first gear. However both have a tendency to use 2nd at Give Way junctions and entering roundabouts if I don’t quite stop. Must be the way I drive.🤔

Hello, I have a Skoda Felicia 1.6 model 2000 and I realized the battery was being drained quit fast. I changed it for a new one because it was already very old and then, after seing it was still draining, I measured the current on the possitive cable that goes to the fuse box with every door closed and no light and I measured 250 mA, which seems to me quite a lot for this car. Note that I discarded the alternator and starter since I measured only the positive cable going into the fuse box. Disconnecting all the fuses didn't do anything, I continue reading 250mA. In the night, in full dark, I saw that the panel light for oil was slightly on (some current is being drained). Also one extra thing I did is to disconnect the cable connectors in the fuse box, see picture attached. I discovered that disconnecting BE reduce the current consumption to around 90 - 95 mA (would this be normal for the Felicia?). The car started without the BE cable connector but the oil lamp is not showing at all in the panel, I think this is a bit risky in the long term and I would like to find a proper solution. My guess is that the oil pump sensor switch is having an issue. I would appreciate any help in this topic. http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b61/gokipoki/FELICIA/Feliciafusebox.gif

I still haven't got it serviced. The error randomly keeps on popping up, mainly in temperature changes. I suspect the metal part is expanding and shrinking according to the heat value. But it has no impact on the general use of the car. It's just an annoying message. I plan to take it to the authorized repair center this week as I have extended warranty.

Skoda is imported here, the official importer of VAG group. They do not care about plastic

This summer I managed to get two full tanks at an actual 4.04 litres per 100, whilst driving at 110 km/h and anticipating traffic slowdowns as much as possible, etc...

Is the Skoda CZ or Skoda Israel rather than just staff at a Dealership!

They do not take any responsibility for plastic compoments i have had my fair share of converstations with them.

Have you asked a Skoda Dealership in Israel for the cost of new replacement parts? If the new ones faded because of Climate / Environment are new ones not just going to go the same way? A Skoda Fundamental Design, Engineering, manufacturing, material fault and a product not suitable for your region. TELL THEM!.

Hey my door handle plastic is fading on both sides, any one has any idea if its replaceable and where to buy new? Fabia mk4 2024

Thanks Warrior193, that's exactly what the code reader says; can you point me in the right direction to check the connection? It's a bit of a bird's nest under the plastic cover and there is a bit of damage to the metallised fabric heat shield that's now held in place by tie-wraps because the pop fasteners have torn out of the fabric..... **No, only the faulty one was changed (£154 +VAT) so they didn't bother with the second one which appeared at the time to be OK, because of the price. The question still remains - is there an easy way to see if the ECU has been modified to allow extra "poke"? **Edit to add: Just checked the service invoices and the first EGT sensor was changed in July last year.

As far a cracking / leaking & also the accumulator cracking. 2017 there was a Service Campaign started on 2013-2016 DQ200,s., 3 times recalled in Australia. (There are repair kits and upgrades, but not from VW. ) This was '34H5' a software update. This is nothing to do with '34F7' 2009-2012 Changed synthetic to mineral oil and a software update. Millions recalled globally but only a service campaign in the EU / Europe. IMPORTANT. No point comparing issues. 2009-2012, or 2013-2015/16 with the DQ200,s built 2015 on and the issues. Then the 1.5TSI Kangerooing issue up to 2019/20 was Manual or DSG, and there were Updates. Maybe more hidden with a DSG. Later Stop / Start , cutting out issues and another Kettle of Fish, or Can of Worms. As to this link... There were Clutch Upgrades and software updates. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/439395-the-story-of-the-famous-dq200-clutch-slip

@thamestrader A DQ200 DSG should not start of in 2nd regardless of fitted to a TSI or TDI from 70 ps - 192 ps. There is a small filter in the MCU, but that needs to be off and opened to change it. @munnst Who is it that advises changing the MCU oil at 40,000 miles? Can you link something to this affect? There is so many Chinese Whispers stuff regarding this online. If changing the Oil change both oils, if you know what you are doing. IMO. Cleaning out the stoor in beside the clutches is more important as far as i am concerned.

Hi , just checked mine it is on Software version 0519

First link in Google... https://lmgtfy.com/?q=vcds+software

@thamestrader yes I know that but it seems like replacing the fluid can allow any circulating "bits" to get dumped out - while VW Group maintain it is not required. I was only speculating that having the fluid changed might, just might have meant avoiding this issue - although if it is the accumulator developing cracks then nothing would have avoided that in the initial build of the Mecha unit. Edit:- though you are talking about aspects of DSG use that, as someone that has yet to use one, has always concerned me, maybe without any good logic or reason.

Clearly an old issue. I had the "error selector lever" message twice whilst in France about 10 days ago. It has not re-appeared in about 1200 miles driving since. I will call the dealer on Monday. As an aside, with diesel now costing the equivalent of more tha £2 per litre in France, its a good thing that the VRS diesel averaged over 59mpg for the trip!

I've not been offered any new updates since my last post so fingers crossed it is finished now

Thanks very informative 👍

Anyone have access to a copy of the firmware upgrade MST2_EU_SK_PQ_P0369T For a 2017 Skoda yeti infotainment system as shown In photo

The only car to appear in 3 sections as well.

What version do you have? Mine is on 0519 & doesn't seem to have changed in the 15 months of owning the car. Certainly not since December when I first recorded it.

Have had well worn pads that I reckond would be ok for a while as car wasnt getting used that much but due to age and wear/heat the pad parted company from the backing plate. You get a definite squeel when that happens. If there well worn as in down to 2-3mm I would change them for peace of mind. Alasdair

Something you guys might want to check. Not sure if it was the result of the work a dealer did last week or a subsequent OTA update, but my instrument/infotainment lighting is now stuck on max, with the slider to adjust doing nothing. Makes driving at night problematic due to the high level of light beamed into the eye line. 🤬

This link may be of interest https://www.sunset-derby.co.uk/how-do-you-fix-your-vws-squeaky-brakes/ You said in your original posting "...my brake pads seem to be well worn...". Assuming it's your car's front brakes that are squealing, received wisdom (example here) https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/advice/car-maintenance/brake-pads/ is that, if the pads' thickness has to reduced to 3mm, the pads should be replaced, but that advice obviously depends on a car's annual mileage. My wife's bought-new-in 2009 Skoda Roomster has only covered 27k miles, does under a 1k miles annually nowadays, and its original front and rear disc pads still have plenty of 'meat' on them.