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Hi all! Early this year I purchased a lovely red 2.0tsi Octavia vRS Mk3 which I absolutely adore. However, I've had an issue since i bought it (which i didnt notice at the time) that when i open my doors, or turn the ignition off, the interior lights don't come on at all. hey do work with turning them on manually, and i have tried changing home the button sits etc too. Am i doing something obviously dumb here or is this an electrical issue I should get looked at? Cheers.

Hi all I am going to change the thermostat ( not getting up to temp) But I’ve discovered by looking at the thermostat a pipe must push in with a O ring on it Doing a bit of research it appears to be 06B121687 Does anyone know if this is correct I tried to call dealers yesterday but the parts department weren’t open Car is 2 litre Tdi 170 manual Cheers all

Can't help with the bolt-on and ECU side as I haven't done that exact swap, but one thing worth sorting while you're buying the donor is the paperwork, as the long block will carry a different engine number to the one on your V5C. GOV.UK says you must update the V5C when you change the engine, and for a change of engine number DVLA want one of these with it or they reject the update: 1. A receipt for the replacement engine that shows the engine number and cylinder capacity. 2. Written evidence from the manufacturer. 3. An inspection report done for insurance purposes. So when you buy the DTTA, get the seller to put the engine number and the cc on the receipt. If the cc is the same as your DSUD it's just the engine number that changes on the log book. Worth telling your insurer about the engine change at the same time, even if you keep it at 85 kW.

Set of 4 Octavia mk3 SE L. 17" Alloy wheels with three 225/45/17 Michelin Primacy 4 tyres and one Hankook ( replacement ) tyre. Both wheels and tyres covering under 15000 miles use. No skuffs or damage to alloys. Reason for sale, new style alloys fitted. £480.00. Please call or text for additional info. 07733133001 . Regards Jeff.

Currently on a 9yr old Audi A4, I am looking to move to an SUV style car - without the annoying eTSI VAG engines. I was impressed by a test drive in a 23 reg Karoq SE L 1.5 TSI 150 PS DSG yesterday. I currently have a rather expensive Thule 2-bike towball mounted bike carrier - so would obviously want to fit a towbar to any Karoq I may purchase. None of the Karoqs which I have on my shortlist appears to have towbar preparation. Having done some online research, I cannot believe an issue that I (think) I have found... It appears that Skoda UK will not approve fitting of a towbar (I like the Westfalia Detachable type) to the Karoq without also changing the radiator grille and fan. Is this actually the case - anyone actually done this, any advice or comments? My main concern is invalidating any Approved Used warranty that I get... It would appear that Skoda are concerned that any towing by a Karoq can cause overheating - unless modifications are made to the vehicle. Of course, I won't be towing anything... Who would market a utility vehicle that can't tow without expensive modifications! Are my thoughts unreasonable..? 🤔

All check your PMs

Ended up removing hub bolt etc. Theres not enough space to get strut out on offside as it doesnt drop far enough. Job wasn't too bad. Just hate doing springs especially front. Alasdair

Used them for years. Some parts are exellent and others not so good but handy to have. Lucky my sons fabia mk1 and my old mk2 were covered. My mk2 fl 1.6tdi engine for some reason isnt although think its covered in an other. I dont like online ones. I prefer to be able to take the book to the car. Alasdair

Hi guys Sorry for a late message. BUT im ****ed off with my MIB2 and i want to upgrade it to MIB2.5 . What should i know about it, about coding and stuff. I already have these brains in glovebox, but is it just plug and play? Oh yes i have Superb Estate 2015 (please don't judge) 1.6 TDI diesel

Interesting. I’ve been using a Haynes manual for a Golf Mk7 for some things, although not everything is the same as an Octavia. When trying to sort out a problem with the electric windows on my sister’s Renault Captur, I also found that Haynes didn’t do a printed manual for that, either. However, they did do one for the Clio, which uses the same switches, motors, etc. The only problem was, all the wiring colours were different! It still helped, though 😀

Is this the update file: MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0480T? If it is, could you please provide me with the link?

_SK_ZR_P0241T https://mib-helper.com/index.php?train=MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0241T https://mib-helper.com/index.php?train=MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0241T The link is not active. I am looking for a link for MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0480T

Hi everyone, Has anyone fitted a DTTA 110 kW long block in place of a DSUD 85 kW in an Octavia Mk4? My car is a 2021 Octavia Mk4 2.0 TDI DSUD with the UEV six-speed manual gearbox. The donor is a 2023 Octavia Mk4 2.0 TDI DTTA with a VCJ six-speed manual gearbox, built in November 2022. I’d keep the DTTA long block complete, including its internals, sump and timing setup. I’d transfer the DSUD external parts, including the turbo, fuel system, intake, EGR, sensors and wiring loom. I’d also keep my original DSUD ECU and software, flywheel, clutch and UEV gearbox. The aim is to keep the car running as an 85 kW DSUD. I compared both VINs in Partslink24. The block (05L 103 011 L), camshaft module (05L 103 044 AH) and dual-mass flywheel (05L 105 266 F) match. The catalogue also lists the same crankshaft and oil pump for both engine codes. The upper sump and timing belt have different part numbers, and I plan to leave both as fitted to the DTTA. Has anyone done this swap or worked on both engines? I’d especially like to know whether the DSUD external parts bolt straight on and whether the original DSUD ECU runs the DTTA long block on the stock map. If you ran into any differences with the crank or cam trigger signals, engine mounts, or turbo and EGR connections, I’d appreciate the details. Thanks!

I always take a trial-and-error approach 😅

Yeah my guess was the same. Saw eu and china had diffrent hardwer versions. From my understanding atleast the indexes after the serial numbers where later "revisions". Yes i have the most cable and i have my nav maps showing in the cluster. How risky is the update to the newer softwere and where can i find a link for it. Thanks!

Mine does the 12v protection from time to time. I have a ctek charger, a CS Free, and in winter, chuck it on the battery about once a week. As the ctek has its own battery built in and will bring the 12v up enough to allow the car to start in a few moments, I carry it in the car just in case at all times. However, I think that warning also comes up if you access the car remotely too often in a given period. Like about 6 times in 12 hours or something.Because I use Octopus to schedule, I sometimes get a schedule with an hour here, a gap, half an hour, a gap, another hour... Those kind of non-contiguous schedules sometimes seem to kick in the warning and then charging stops or fails. But you just get in, move the car an inch, get out, it resets the warning and Octopus will charge it again. Not much good at 3am but still. Every time I used the ctek the 12v is either fine or within an hour or so of being fine. Car is also a coupe, 25 months old. I don't think Skoda offer the Optimised Battery Use setting in the app, that's a VW thing I think. I think the Enyaq charges the 12v when driving ok, but I can't find a definitive thing saying it will charge the 12v when you plug the car in and just recharging. I can find things like "it's supposed to" or "probably in some circumstances" but not an official yes that's how it works. Maybe someone else has definite info on that. I just assume mine doesn't, hence using the ctek just in case

First Screen With positiv pwm = Seat 2nd Screen with negativ pwm = SKODA

The difference is that with DCC, the sensors are processed by the DCC control unit, whereas otherwise, they are handled by the BCM (Body Control Module). The system stores information regarding which axle is installed and the number of sensors—specifically two in the case of all-wheel-drive vehicles. The regulation mechanism functions on the same principle, regardless of whether DCC is present or not. The basic setting (calibration) for DCC is distinct from that of the headlights. The vehicle should be positioned normally on a level surface and left unloaded before performing the basic setting.

A thought though. I wonder if it might be irrelevant anyway. May give you some info of relevant position but with regards to the precise number, @JR RS has me thinking. does the adaptation without dcc have to be done in the same way. E.g jacked up with wheels hanging at full extent to find a max extension and then all compression of suspension is relative to that figure. Edit: just had a look at the manual and it only mentions basic settings for dcc. Will let you know what my numbers are when I get a chance to look.

Guys, thanks for the reponse. Binx1310, awaiting your data!

Also do you have G13 coolant and does it read in your expansion bottle "Mit silikat"?

Hi. Are you sure the cause is the heater matrix and not the climatronics passenger side flapmotor that controls the hot and cold airflow. In LHD vehicles its V159 i think. These flapmotors are known to fail when they age, the potentiometer inside fails or the plastic stop breaks so that the motor loses its position signal. Have you read DTCs?

From China, the VC 😉... unfortunately, you bought an older software version; the Sportline visuals, etc., only arrived with "Index A" what i know... It is possible to perform an update via an SD card through the MIB2 unit—provided you have retrofitted the MOST connection—but I cannot offer any guarantees regarding this.

I definitely did not intend to offend anyone. If my words came across the wrong way—which can certainly happen, given that English is not my native language—I apologize. My only point was that the discussion should remain focused on the Superb; if someone were to read this thread days, weeks, or years later and encounter talk about a VW T6.1—or any other vehicle with a completely different system architecture—it would simply be confusing. I am certainly not questioning anyone’s competence; everyone—absolutely everyone—in this forum contributes something of value. I simply felt a personal need to clarify this, and as far as I am concerned, this matter is now settled.

No, the dataset is essentially an extension of the firmware. It is loaded onto a control unit and—to put it simply—contains vehicle-specific data and the functions that the control unit is supposed to execute. Tools like ODIS-E or VCP can be used to flash these datasets. There are also some handy tools that allow you to load the OEM dataset, which then provides you with a user-friendly interface for making adjustments; you can then save your configuration and flash it onto the unit.