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Zinc primer is of dark grey colour (at least high purity zinc one), zinc-aluminium primer is light grey to silver. So choice of colours is rather limited unles you coat the zinc layer with paint. Personally, I'm happy with the underside of the car being 50 shades of grey ;)

Nope, no more notifications, thats blank now.

05L253019F

Turbine overboost in most cases is indeed related to stuck geometry (vanes) or a malfunction of the actuator (its vacuum/electronic parts or the N75 control valve). Since your car is under warranty, your main goal is to correctly record this defect for the official dealer so they don't dismiss it as an "accidental error." On a 2020 Skoda Octavia 2.0 TDI (likely an EA288 or EA288 evo engine), the engine control unit (ECU) uses the modern UDS protocol. In Car Scanner, these sensors (PIDs) are well-defined. 1. Which Sensors (PIDs) to Select in Car Scanner: Connect to the car, select the correct connection profile (Skoda OBD-II / MQB), go to the "Live Data / Graphs" section, and select these specific parameters: Engine RPM: Engine RPM (rpm). Gear: Target Gear or Current Gear (crucial to see the exact moment of the DSG shift). Target Boost (What the computer requests): Charge pressure: specified value (measured in hPa or mbar). Actual Boost (What the turbo actually delivers): Charge pressure: actual value (in hPa or mbar). Actuator Position (Crucial for the dealer): Positioner for charge pressure actuator: acknowledgment or Activation of boost pressure control valve (measured in %). 2. How to Correctly Record the Log (Driver's Guide): You must record the log under high engine load to force the turbo to peak boost. Find a safe, straight stretch of road (ideally a highway or a slight uphill slope). Move the DSG gear selector into Manual mode (M). Engage 3rd or 4th gear. Slow down until your engine speed drops to 1500 RPM. Press the "Record" (Play) button in Car Scanner. Press the accelerator pedal 100% to the floor (Wide Open Throttle). Do not press it past the kick-down click, so the DSG doesn't automatically force a downshift. Hold the pedal down until the engine reaches 3800–4000 RPM. At this point, shift up to the next gear (e.g., from 3rd to 4th) while keeping your foot heavily on the gas, and continue driving for another 3–4 seconds. Stop the recording. 3. What to Look For in the Log for Your Warranty Claim: Export the data as a CSV file or look at the graph in the app. The smoking gun for a faulty VNT geometry/actuator on a 2.0 TDI will look like this: As RPM rises, the Specified Boost stabilizes (e.g., at 2500 mbar). The Actual Boost shoots way past it up to 2900+ mbar. The Actuator Position (%) drops to its minimum threshold. This proves the ECU is trying its hardest to open the geometry and dump the pressure, but the actual pressure won't drop because the mechanism is physically jammed. Immediately after this layout occurs, the car will throw a glow plug light (coil) or Check Engine light on the dashboard and enter Limp Mode. Take this graph or CSV to your official dealer. They will be forced to run a guided actuator test on their ODIS diagnostic system and will most likely replace the turbocharger or the electronic actuator under warranty. Once you record the log, let me know: Were you able to capture the pressure spike on the graph? What specific error code (e.g., P0234) did Car Scanner read when it happened? Feel free to share the peak values (specified vs. actual) here for a quick analysis!

Hello, it is pouring a little water into my trunk rear light. I am planning to unmount the light and try to seal it with silicone glue. My question is, if I open only the trunk during the replacement: Will I need diagnostics run after I fit my light again? Will there stay any warning/error on my infotainment. Will my dynamic blinkers run again?

My car has never updated over the air

My car has never updated its infotainment system over the air before

Do you have any notifications (number in a circle) in the to right of the infotainment? After the big 0334 update, I had 7 unique updates for different features including the shop application

Hi, Hope this isn’t a dumb question. I have been checking out the workshop manuals for the Kodiak but see most have date ranges 2016 - 2017 - 2019, my car is a 2022 and I wonder which of the manuals provided will be correct regardless if it’s for a 2019 or 2022. Engine and transmission is easy as I can go by product code but all the rest is a bit of a mystery to me.

Could it be a tyre? I pose that question because on my previous car, a Mk2 Superb, I had a low noise which I thought was wheel bearing; the Master Technician at my local dealer came on a short drive with me and his thoughts were wheel bearing. Put it on the ramp, checked, bearings were fine. Turned out to be a tyre. A very slight bulge on the inside tyre wall, probably caused by some pot-hole. Changed the tyre and noise gone. According to the tyre depot the bulge was so slight it would not have been an MOT failure but there was some minor structural damage internally. If your rim is dented potentially your tyre is damaged too.

Hi Just in the process of buying a 2022 Kodiak Sportline 1.5 TSI ACT DSG in grey, should be cruising next week. Been a Jeep rider for 20 years followed by several crap company cars , not crap as in unreliable but just not fun to drive. Main interests are my dogs and reading sci-if, always worked on my own cars so hope to be able to do the same with this one.

Actually that’s probably not a question for this thread is it, a whole different subject maybe.

Not sure I trust AI when it comes to car parts...

Okay thanks I’ll keep an eye on that. I guess I’ll have to get my hands dirty and look under the bonnet! I might even enjoy it. I’m sure this has been discussed dozens of time here before, but mine is set to variable time and distance servicing. We live in the country and when we go out we generally drive without any real traffic for maybe 30 to 60 minutes at normal country road speeds. Is there a general consensus re variable v fixed service intervals?

Increased engine oil level on a TSI could possibly be a symptom of one or more leaking fuel injectors - or coolant leak! Oil level should be checked as recommended and, if level has in fact increased, should be tested for possible contaminants.

Reduce - as in too much so take some out. I never got the chance to check it. I was actually near the dealer when it happened and drove in and they just sorted it there and then under warranty. I didn’t get to speak to the actual operative and it’s been fine since. I think the assumption (from the service manger) was that at the service they had put a tad too much in and it eventually triggered a sensor somehow so they drained a bit off. I admit am rather put off investigating modern cars too much myself, I was a mechanic many years ago but my other cars are from 1959 and 1970 which I can deal with.

I think Nissan Pixo, ie Nissan version of Twingo looks better than Twingo unlike the Micra which does not look as good as the 5. Well done Nissan, would rather this or maybe the new beefier Spring as a city / county run around than Twingo when I trade in my Urban 5, if i don't keep it.

The switch under the lever is the same. As you remove the actual switch it would work/fit. checked with AI as well and it does fit, just not redily available in the UK

Infotainment replaced on September 11th. So far so good. No random problem ever since, but I'll keep it under surveillance. Very long journey with the Skoda dealership and very dissapointing experience. Like I said, if I'll ever buy another car it won't be anything from the VAG group. Good luck to anyone still facing issues. Rooting for you, guys🙏

Worth taking front plastic wheel arch liners off and giving a good clean. Theres a sponge like strip that supposedly seals to the botom of sill area etc but I took a bucket of fine salty mud out of both on mine. Gave it a good powerwash and then loads of waxoil afterwards. Mine was pretty bad when I finally took it off the road due to weak subframes etc. There was only on small hole in sill which I managed to fill and managed to get another MOT out of it. The stone chip protection is difficult to tell if its loose/cracked or not. On my sills there were a few obvious bubbles and when I rubbed down the paint etc found that moisture had been trapped behind. I just kept rubbing down till it was solid again. I treated the rusty bits with Bilt Hamber hydrate 80 which seemed to hold the rust back. Alasdair

Good to see that the ADT will include private flights in the coming years. The rates of Air Passenger Duty are ridiculously low. For an internal flight in economy, it is a mere £8. So, should my wife and I choose to visit friends on the Black Isle and fly from Southampton to Inverness it is £16 (2x£8) in duty. If I drive, fuel duty, and VAT on that duty (not the VAT on the base fuel cost), would amount to £28.60. Bonkers. [Rant over, for now!]

@SteveTheElder

@OrvilleTheDuck Had it increased? Did you not remove oil? "reduce oil level'" Too much oi. "Reduced oil level" not enough!!! Does your car have a Dip Stick? Did you dip the oil when you first got the warning. As the Manual tells you to. @ Normal Operating Temperature, parked on the flat after a few minutes? Then compare that to Once the engine and oil had cooled to ambient temperature?