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Trying to get bolt out that goes through bush of swing arm to consol bracket and its a nightmare. Was very stiff and creaky when first undone slightly so been soaking it in everything I got and managed to get it out so far but its seizing if I try anymore. Can wind it back in again but seem to have hit a spot it wont come out any further and dont want to strip alloy threads. So far been soaked in wd40, penetrating oil, Diesel/ATF mix and engine oil with white spirit and its not making any difference. Does anyone have any ideas. Been at it for hours. Tried some heat with a heat gun but wary of propane torch as its a petrol car and I have a lot of lubricant everywhere. Was thinking of removing consol bracket and soaking but swing arm bolt goes through subframe so wouldnt be able tor remove complete without removing subframe. Any help or pointers welcome. Alasdair

Thanks. I'll have a dig about in the settings

All up and running with a new plug and play unit sourced from @pab567 .

Managed to finish the upgrade of MIB2 to MIB 2.5 today having managed to completely brick my original MIB. Thanks to @pab567 for providing a replacement plug and play unit. Cannot fault the service!

I did this in mine a while ago to replace the rubber one with the polyurethane one, you need an extractor especially to mount the new one I've used this set of extractor https://www.ebay.de/itm/127947685719?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&_ul=DE&amdata=enc%3A1vNRjCVhZTJeWGY5yCkPgFw8&campid=5339018407&mkcid=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=707-53477-19255-0&rb_itemId=127947685719&rb_pgeo=DE&toolid=10044&var=0&var=0&ff=11&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=707-53477-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=CjwKCAjw88HWBhA3EiwAo2Zd6EfRqVAwVKGTjXpwKwCi9B8HD3o2V6kavYkWQlLj1efOGAIdrA1lVxoC5vgQAvD_BwE&gclid=CjwKCAjw88HWBhA3EiwAo2Zd6EfRqVAwVKGTjXpwKwCi9B8HD3o2V6kavYkWQlLj1efOGAIdrA1lVxoC5vgQAvD_BwE&wbraid=Cj8KCQjw0LzWBhCwARIuAJkypPQIFpJwg1aeGKo75Pvo82mKgioLELJXjzoyBWQaN-N77na_jhfLZ_YUyRoCW-A&gbraid=0AAAAADA7Q_I3Q_p1yPD94ljoHBMP1ogTd&adtype=pla&loc_physical_ms=1008529&loc_interest_ms=&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=24323471418

I find the warnings annoying. I've trained my regular passengers to know that the speed warning chimes are just the car 'being stupid again' rather than me exceeding the speed limit. And I strongly agree with @randomcastle that the autonomous speed control - when the car tries to follow those incorrect limits - is potentially dangerous. It's a neat trick when it works, but I stopped using it on the second day that I had the car. However, the settings on my car do allow this to be turned off as a permanent preference; I don't need to turn it off every time I start the car. I cannot recall where I made the change, but the online manual seems to show that the 'speed limit response' setting can be changed in the infotainment system... You might also want to turn off the 'road layout response' while you are there, although this is more of a personal preference. I find that it starts slowing much, much earlier than it needs to. In flowing traffic, the car in front will usually slow you down sufficiently via the ACC anyway. If there is no car in front, then I prefer to be in control and use the big pedal to reduce the speed to match the road conditions.

Tesla Superchargers not on here yet beside Turnberry and a Pumpkin festival on and busy. But some **** with an EV just uses the bay at the one DC charger. I needed a charge since I tried at Stirling park and ride and 3 out of 4 50 kW chargers were broken.

There is a moral to this story too. Few years back four new tyres fitted on the Monday - Tuesday morning start the car to go to work, low tyre pressure warning. Ignored as I “knew” better four new tyres all at correct pressure when I reversed into the garage the previous night. 200 yds down the road steering’s very heavy, stopped got out OSF nearly flat. Faulty valve. I no longer ignore warnings!

Speed limit warnings are 1 of several "driver assistance" features I have to turn off every time before I drive. I live in a pretty rural location and my 2026 L&K superb seems to make speed limits up. Even where an unrestricted sign is clearly visible it will say 20 is the limit. It's more than annoying, it's dangerous, causing the car to slow suddenly or accelerate to 60 when it thinks it's out of a ghost 20 zone if you are using ACC. I feel the tech has got a bit out of control. It wouldn't be so bad if the changes "stuck", but no, every time you start up you have to change a heap of settings. Is it the same in other cars like Merc or BMW?

I believe that the pad/bung should be removed and replaced with Audi-type lift pads.

Google has got me to here and it mentioned pab567 as the person to talk to about downloading the software fix for mine. Unfortunately I haven't made the '20 posts' limit to send a private message. Is pab567 still on the site?

Yes I can buy just the bushes and its an easy bolt-on job - according to AI

Don't forget, new parts can be faulty too.

Hi, can I buy just the bushes for the rear of the suspension arms and are they easy to fit please? Or is it better to fit complete arms at 85,000mls?

Stretching the thread a little here, but my worst bong was a week after taking delivery of a Polo. This was accompanied by the message "S6 Battery Critically Low". Pulled over & trawled the manual & internet for what S6 meant, without success. Car started OK so I decided to push on with the 75 mile journey home, fretting that the car would die at any moment, but it didn't. Next day the warning had gone. Then the penny finally dropped, it was warning about the battery on my Samsung S6 phone...

The worst bong for me is the washer bottle, which must be the loudest of all bongs. it can bong a minute after starting off, and then continue to bong at variably spaced intervals during the journey. Totally unnecessary. Surely the car's electronics must be able to sense that the car is moving after sounding the first bong, so why not just display the warning light.

I have a strange problem with my Skoda Karoq, when I drive alone, the steering wheel is on the left side, near the front right wheel, or the mudguard or the floor, I hear a knocking sound on the holes and speed bumps as if something is loose, as if the suspension is faulty, but the shock absorbers, mounts, bearings and support rods were recently replaced, the brakes are new and everything has passed the MOT, but it is still audible. What is even more incredible is that NOTHING is heard when someone else is sitting in the passenger seat. I checked the seat, everything is fixed, nothing is moving anywhere, and the sound is coming from outside. Does anyone have an idea how to fix it?

This figure seems to agree - this is from a different bit of the manual and looks like the lift is in from the sill seam. So I read that as meaning the sill weld is for short term jacking, eg for a tyre change, while the adjacent part of the subframe behind that is suitable for lifting during maintenance. I will use a bit of carcassing timber between the axle stand and the car to spread the pressure. I don't really understand what the plastic cover and the rubber bungs are about but they seem to be located just where the lift would go in this diagram. Seems an odd thing to do because the plastic cover would get mashed if it's not removed.

You get VAG jack pads, but they do sometimes require modification. If the slit is too narrow, it will peel away the undersea (if this hasn't already been done). If it's too wide, it won't support the pinch weld adequately. Common lift points are the front subframe (it's beefy) and the rear suspension points or beam. Again, make sure you have an adequate jack pad.

I know at the moment that these 2 items cannot be retro-fitted to a 2026 model Octavia. To anyone's knowledge is this likely to be possible in the foreseeable future?

Hi all, Finally managed to code my cruise control in! The issue I was having was being locked out of the ECU due to the fact I was trying to code through Security access on the OBDeleven App/ OBDeleven VAG App which was the only option available for coding on an iPhone IOS. I downloaded both apps onto an android pad and I could access Coding II to enter the 11463 code which worked correctly after the ECU timer had elapsed. I hope this helps people in the future as haven’t had much correspondence from this forum so there cannot be that much known knowledge using OBDeleven for coding on here.

Welcome, nice car.

When my MY27 arrived it had to be updated by the dealer and they had to disconnect the battery for an hour before they could proceed. That will need you to perform the steering angle reset after reconnection though.

Noise is also audible when the car is stationary with the petrol engine running, without pressing the accelerator. Would a normal turbo whistle be noticeable under those conditions too?

Is it not just the turbo whistling?