All Activity

I admit to bias - but I'd suggest the manual would be king - unless you used the DSG in manual mode while towing.

Mines exactly the same model and year hmm, unless it was an optional extra original owner asked for, I’ve got heated seats at the rear which I believe was optional

If I remember correctly, my error was in Infortainment Cente? Antenna, Short ( Water had got in under the fin)

Welcome to the forum. Just turn off the audio ECO advisories and use the gear appropriate for the load you are pulling.

I bought a Skoda roof rack for my Enyaq Coupe recently and couldn't attach the supplied rubber strips but found advise from an old Fabia post. I've attached photos to show you how. It is easy when you know how but your fingers know they've done a workout when completed! It's a great roof rack very quick and easy to put on/remove from the car. Start spotting in one edge first then start pushing from the opposite side NOT from above. The images should make sense. Just keep working your way up a few inches at a time:-) Image 1 Image 2 Image 3 Image 4

The big mpg killers are driving in town, roads which have many bends and speed limit changes and, despite what many will tell you, use of aircon. Our little car which does ~50mpg or more in normal conditions can't even reach 45mpg with auto aircon in the baking hot conditions we currently have. The general reason that cars get better mpg coming back is that they don't have to contend with starting from cold and the higher fuel consumption that results. My Karoq has done nearly 3000 miles according to the long term computer, at 49.8 mpg, and on the continent last month, when it was hot enough to crack our windscreen, we were getting 52 mpg even with the aircon running. Our best recorded figure on a trip, all be it a short journey, was over 80 mpg. About 10 miles, aircon off, about 940 feet drop in elevation.

Can anyone help with the above. Really need to turn down the warning level when reversing and a pedestrian or similar is close to the car. It is so loud. Have tried turning down the volume control for radio etc when it activates as someone suggested. But this made no difference. Was supposed to remember this level next time round. It doesn`t Can turn down front and rear parking sensor warning but that didn`t help. Kodiaq SEL `75 plate.

Has this engine been tested for cylinder compressions?

No experience with Waze but use Google Maps with my 2013 Columbus and suspect works the same in that the phone audio from the app only comes through to the car speakers if Columbus is set to play Bluetooth media. Works for me as tend to listen to audio books on long drives so the Google Maps announcements (and speed camera warnings from Speed Camera Alert app) come though and interrupt in audio book playback.

many thanks @Carlston

An update on this oil leak/boost issue. I went to a new garage which had been recommended to me. Hoping for an understanding expert who might help me out. I was wrong, and left the place super-depressed! As soon as I arrived, it was a total downer. One of those garages more akin to a showroom, pristine floor and very little actual work going on. The guy complained about my drivers' seat (crumbs and whatnot) and went and got a seat cover for himself. Then he expressed his disgust at the quality of the rocker gasket install done by another mechanic. 40 minutes later he'd done a VCDS and then gave me a load of vague possibilities,; basically he didn't want the job, let's leave it at that. His 'report' suggested the following- -turbo electrovalves slow and worn ( I assume he means the actuator on the wastegate) oil leaks on the turbo in/out pipes -SAI valve and orifices blocked -Lambda sensor 1 faulty heater -air leaks causing the evap system to malfunction rear main seal leaks oil intake manifold gasket brittle causing boost leak and oil leak The printout identified P0411, P1602, P0507, P0135. All these faults point towards doing the SAI delete and Eap system delete; so that's my plan. He quoted £2000 which might have been to scare me off (and probably assuming the turbo is finished). Whichever way, he's not my guy. I am so upset; I knew the car is in a mess, but nothing that can't be addressed. In fact, if his attitude had been different I would have said 'yes' there and then (even though that's money I don't have!). So I'm gonna do the deletes myself and fit an OCC. If I get that far, I'll know whether the wastegate actuator can be changed or not, and should be getting better at this stuff by then. That'll mean no car for a bit . No guarantee it's going to solve anything but you have to address these issues one by one. Before any of this though, I just found my oil sump plug is spinning!! It's not leaking but I gotta get it out and fit an oversize 'piggyback' bolt first, so I can change the oil! Thanks for reading - had to get this off my chest

Hi, Note: my previous car was a 59-plate Hyundai i30, so all of this is very new to me. Had my Scala for nearly two weeks now. Happy with it, but have noticed a few gremlins/niggles that I'm not sure about. I have done mostly short urban trips, but recently did an 80 mile motorway drive. Things I have questions about: The Stop/Start system keeps restarting at random before I depress the clutch or touch anything. Research suggests this is probably because of a low state of charge in the battery, and it does seem better after the motorway drive. Since I'll be doing mostly local trips with the occasional longer journey, is it better to disable this and/or is this something that needs investigating further? The brakes feel as if the ABS is always working; there is a mild pulsing feel from the pedal even with only moderate braking. Is this normal? On the motorway the cruise control worked OK, but on two occasions it behaved oddly; with an indicated steady 60mph the engine seemed to be surging then braking about every second, the effect was pronounced enough that my wife could feel it from the passenger seat. As far as I know the car doesn't have ACC and on the first occasion there was no nearby traffic anyway. Again on the motorway journey, for about 1/2 mile, the tacho display was flashing the gear indicator "6" off and on as though it thought I was dipping the clutch. On two occasions it suggested changing from 6th to 1st, showing "6 > 1" ! I haven't used the radio much, but when I have, on at least 50% of the occasions it has randomly changed station itself. The speed warning system only seems to activate when 3+mph over the limit even though it is set to "Standard". Are any of these known issues, should I be concerned about any of them, and do any require taking the car back to the dealer? Thanks.

My wing mirror has one out and no warning. Did have a warning a while back and it was corrosion in number plate lights. All lights were fine and working but the corrosion was enough to trigger bulb light. When I cleaned it the bulb was slightly brighter. Alasdair

That suggests it isn't a "glitch". Given the circumstances that you are "abroad", i think you should probably listen to the mechanic with the diagnostic tool. Your car must be at least ten year old so if this is the first injector that's not bad. What mileage has it done

Yes, the 3.5 was basically a facelift with a few goodies thrown in. The infotainment is a big improvement IMO. The split lights divide opinion, but I have grown to like them. They're a bit 2010 Mercedes E-class, but otherwise unusually distinctive, which I like.

But you don't have a 2.0...

Thanks. It happened whilst driving down a long dirt track, with no road signs or road markings etc. So that kind of makes sense. I'll keep an eye on it. Thanks once again.

Give teh windscreen in front of the camera a clean first.

Hi from CZ. I managed to buy 65/100

Thank you Pete! I´ll try find the right part and let you all know how I get on.

How did you fix this. Where can we buy the panel. Because i am facing the same issue as well

Hi all, Ran the car through a wash earlier today (against better judgement, self service was broken, hose pipe ban and dirty af) and immediately got the yellow exterior bulb warning light on the dash. I've done a walkaround and everything seems to be functioning. Headlights, high/low beams, DRLs, fogs, reversing, and number plate lights are all coming on. There was some water on the headlight housing, but it's sealed and the rubber covers were dry. I haven't been able to check the brake lights properly yet as I don't have a second person but expect they are fine. The indicators are all working, but looking closely at the left wing mirror, it looks like maybe one of the LEDs in the strip might be out? It's very bright outside today, so it is honestly quite hard to tell for certain. My question is: would a single dead LED in that sealed wing mirror unit be enough to trigger the dash warning due to a resistance drop? Or is it more likely just water ingress somewhere else from the pressure washer bridging a connection that will clear up once it dries out? Any thoughts appreciated. Cheers.

Just noticed on the parts diagrams that the Koyo system shows sealing washers for this part that are described as 16mm, TRW system shows ones with 14mm seals. So your system is LHD SMI Koyo, and your expansion hose part number is part number 6Q1 423 893 M (dropped May 2023, superseded to 6Q1 423 893H). Note for UK/RHD car owners. Part numbers for RHD systems are different to what's shown above. Third character is 2 instead of 1, and suffixes will differ too. All UK/RHD systems are TRW as far as I know.

I had this symbol appear yesterday a couple of times and searched the manual plus web but can't find anything about it. Can anybody help please. TIA

seguo