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OBDeleven or VCDS I would suggest.

I wonder whether the suspension was allowed to settle with the car's full weight on the wheels before all the bolts were tightened?

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202609176127163?sort=relevance&searchId=b1186a20-63ca-4c54-ab5b-808a156f68a2&aggregatedTrim=Elegance&body-type=Estate&make=Skoda&model=Superb&page=1&postcode=SE22+0BB&radius=1500&advertising-location=at_cars&fromsra=&backLinkQueryParams=body-type%3DEstate%26make%3DSkoda%26model%3DSuperb%26postcode%3DSE22%25200BB%26radius%3D1500%26aggregatedTrim%3DElegance%26saved-search-id%3D8a4293fe9c0f9707019c33ab77794c45%26flrfc%3D1&calc-deposit=1000&calc-term=48&calc-mileage=10000&calc-selected-product=PCP

Thank warrior. I've tried clearing the fault with a basic fault reader, but think I need a more advanced version. Any idea what level device would clear this? Thanks Sam

Welcome to the forum. I believe you need to clear the fault manually by plugging a suitable device into the vehicles OBD port.

Good call. I have had the geometry done not too long ago (for a completely different reason), but I'll perhaps go back and get it done again. Tyres have no wear issues. I've even switched from 4-season to summers and back - no change.

Yes, cross-climates, very new. I've also fairly recently had the geometry aligned at all corners, can't remember if the noise was there at all before that. However, I have two sets of wheels, one with summer tyres, switching between them annoyingly made no difference.

Wheel bearings are though, but maybe not to the extent of noticing whatever level of wear may be genertaing the noise. I am confident in the thoroughness of my MOT garage.

But it is how it works for you, sadly there many others who do not share your particular circumstances or your luck. Many live in rented accommodation so the cost is is a total burden to them. As to increasing the value of your home, that is debatable, it's only an asset if the buyer has a need of a charger, or it is not out of date at time of selling the house.

As far as I remember 0 yes, unless you instal the one with paddles.

Yes, which is a backward step from the summer price of 59p for all (with a further discount for Electroverse users).

That's what I thought. But the facelift MK2 one with multi function will fit in mine plug and play and the buttons will work?

Gridserve are great when great. But seeing as some report not getting the speeds then surely only some are great. Everything when working as they should be are great and when not crap. IME. I have experiences that are great and also ones that are crap. Stirling castle view park and ride. 1 50 kW out of service, 2 giving 50 kW, and the one I was on giving 26 kW. But only wanted the £2 min amount so 10 minutes and £2.08 worth.

It really sounds like aircon flap/actuator. If I had to guess, maybe the recirculation or heat exchanger temperature flap. There is a setting in the AC for automatic internal air circulation activation. Try disabling it and see if it changes anything.

Last ones I got were Febi and no problems. Alasdair

Some charge locations need a battery box as a buffer. But sad that ths sites who nearly always getting it right ars TESLA. Over 99% uptime which they allshould have but only TESLA seem to manage it. The Gridserve Electric Forecourts are also great, and have battery banks to ensure published flow rates but as to others still hit and miss Ever bigger car batteries mean less public charging and now home charging, with the VAT off, is great.

Hi everyone, I have the same problem with my 2024 Octavia 2.0 TDI. About two months ago it started making a loud creaking noise from the roof console (the sunglasses holder area) when driving on uneven roads. I found this thread and it looks really helpful. Does anyone have a video showing how to remove the console? I searched YouTube and other sites but couldn't find one. I'm not very experienced with car repairs and don't want to break anything. From what I read here, I need to pull the console down from the side of the sunglasses holder (put hand inside? and release the 4 black hooks with a trim removal tool. Can I do that with hands? Thanks in advance!

Also to add "Isn't the pumping hard with the engine off just depleting the servo vacuum though, nothing to do with compressing the air in the system by ramming more fluid in?" Yes, I'm sure it is. But the differance is the ABS unit is off. I can only report the symptoms I had and I think it is because the ABS pump is not in an active state, valves in it closed etc. I can only report what happened in practise until someone with confirmed knowledge tells me why. The thing is if it was seals in the master cyclinder then the same seals would let by with the engine off, yes I can see more foot pressure needed as you'd have no servo assist but the pedal would not be rock solid with hard pressure even with the engine off.

MFG connect using app now only 59 pence a kWh.

Certainly the DSG in ours drives just fine. It changes up just about as early as is reasonable, and I think the downchange on braking from speed is something it's supposed to do. The only time I've ever used Sport or manual changes in ours is for experimentation - I've never felt the need to use them in normal use. Maybe newer cars are a bit different - could the OP have a more sporty mode being used by default in the driver profile (or drive mode)?

Interesting, with my car i have done some "preventive" maintenance and it would seem that dpf cleaning is one thing to consider also. As I said earlier i have now almost 250kkm or 155t miles on the dash and the dpf is original and never been cleaned before. I dont have any symptoms yet with dpf clogging but maybe im asking when would i need to do that job? When the regens happen more frequently and there is a dpf warning light on the dash, maybe? I have now and then checked with obd11 the distance last travelled before a regen has occured and i would say its in between 250-400km depending of my everyday driving trips. Is this normal distance between regens? In the Octavia 3 its a big job to get the dpf out of the engine bay, you have to drop the subframe, thank god i dont have all-wheel drive, even more job involved.

Ah, OK. Glad it's finally sorted.

It's that time of year again when I prepare for winter in the Scottish Highlands. I need to buy a new set of tyres, so I am looking for advice from you about what you prefer to use. I have a spare set of wheels, so I want full winter tyres rather than 'all seasons' that can be swapped out when the season changes. I need tyres that will cope with cold wet conditions and temperatures close to freezing. We often get periods lasting up to a couple of weeks with lying snow on side streets, although the main roads do (eventually) get ploughed. I have the 265PS AWD engine, so there is plenty of power to control. My priority is for safe and comfortable handling rather than performance. Given those requirements, my shortlist is Michelin Pilot Alpin 5 or Pirelli P Zero Winter 2 based on online reviews. Do you have any experience with these or any alternative recommendations? What have you been pleased with, or are there any tyres that you have regretted buying?

Unortunately, you are right, you need MFSW either from Superb Mk2 or Yeti. I think some from O2 will also work but not sure which ones.

The DSG box "learns" driving patterns, so maybe the previous owner hammered it. Try a reset.