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Couldn’t understand why my Karoq “bonged” at me when I got in this morning. Nor could I understand why in bright sunlight was the map display night mode, when it’s set to Auto. Then it “bonged” again when I opened the door to get out. Light bulb moment - the light switch had been knocked from Auto to Side lights. Quite clever really - never ignore a “bong” I think.🤔

@Deny Preložil som váš príspevok do angličtiny. Upozorňujem vás, že predvoleným jazykom na fóre Briskoda je angličtina. Na pomoc vám môžu poslúžiť online prekladové nástroje (napr. Google Translate). I've translated your post into English. Please be aware that the default language on Briskoda is English. There are online translation tools available to assist you (e.g. Google Translate) Camshaft/crankshaft position sensor fault (G40) I’m asking for advice to see if anyone has encountered this issue, as I’m at a loss for what to do next and am turning to the power of the internet. Out of nowhere, the car started making a noise like an old diesel engine; it’s a 2017 2.0 TSI (206 kW) with 189,000 km on the clock. The noise stopped after a cold start, but the "Check Engine" light came on the following day. In April of this year, I replaced both camshaft magnets (INA N205 units). Diagnostics showed two errors: 1. Camshaft/Crankshaft Position Sensor Implausible signal Sporadic fault 2. Bank 1: Intake Camshaft Retarded timing setpoint not reached Our first thought was the timing components; we inspected them and found that the previous owner (in Germany) had replaced some parts (specifically the plastic components), though the chain and sprockets had not been changed. When the connector to the exhaust camshaft adjuster was unplugged, the noise stopped, suggesting a faulty camshaft. A genuine Škoda replacement camshaft (complete with the sensor) was purchased. We used old oil mixed with a cleaner to flush the engine (to remove some carbon deposits) and then installed fresh oil and a new filter; we cut open the old filter and found very little debris. We measured the cylinder compression, and each cylinder showed 8 bar. The following were replaced: Oil and filters Sump plug Dipstick O-ring Magnet cover gasket Crankshaft oil seal Coolant Exhaust camshaft Camshaft valve Timing cover plate Sump gasket Sump O-rings Dipstick O-ring BG109 flush After these parts were replaced, the car was started; however, once the engine warmed up and the oil temperature exceeded 80°C, the noise returned and the check engine light came on. Thanks in advance for any advice. I am also attaching the latest diagnostic report.

@bigjohn Thanks for the reply. When first starting, the voltmeter usually shows ~12.8V The stop/start system often works the first time I stop (engine not up to temperature) and frequently fails to work after that. So that seems to be the opposite of what it should be. It will stop and restart after a few seconds or even stop and immediately restart. Several times when stationary in a queue for a long time it has stopped, restarted after a few seconds, then stopped again after ~30s, then restarted after another few seconds. The dealer said they had updated the software to the latest versions. The cruise control surges/brakes on the level. Maybe it thinks it's going downhill...?

Don’t get obsessed with the voltmeter, when you first start up does the voltage raise over 13 volts?:- A)When you unlock the car and open the door even before you get anywhere turning it on the car will have fired up systems and the fuel pump ready for action which will effectively show a lower voltage. B)Modern stop / start charging systems are designed to save the odd bit of petrol by turning down charging after a while (On my Superb my voltage sensitive cool box used to shut down!) but overcharging when on the overrun to recoup energy (down hill etc). That’s why you need a better stop/start battery (EFB or AGM etc) as a traditional wet battery would struggle and fail prematurely. Stop/start errors are common - (eg you’ve only driven short journeys) but could be related to the gear indicator issue mentioned. Only unless your battery is in good fettle, car warmed up etc will stop start work. RE buggy infotainment system, it’s well documented on this forum that it’s buggy. Might need a firmware update - again well documented. Re Cruise control, to some extent surging a bit up hill or braking downhill is normal as the car is trying to maintain a constant speed. Sometimes the effect of this can be tweaked in the car settings?

Had similar problems with my 12 plate. Part number on canister is the part number for actual canister which I assumed was filter number. Local motor factors looked it up and got the correct filter for me. Alasdair

Thanks @AGFalco Your post above lists the two arch part numbers from buyacar. Did you also use the adapters? I saw another post from you which listed a much larger list of parts.

Intuitively that makes sense, but the workshop manual is very strict about not lifting it anywhere else! Which is why I've come here. 9.3 Raise vehicle Raise vehicle with a lift platform or a workshop jack The vehicle must only be raised with a workshop jack in the indi‐ cated jacking points -arrow A- and -arrow B-. a = 12 cm b = 24 cm The jacking points are located at the stiff joints of the bottom side rail.

It works for VW as well. I had one situation on VW Polo 2020-2021 which had MEN2, but it used different software and this patch could not work on it. 2020 and older should work straight.

Poprosím vás o radu, či sa niekto s tym stretol lebo uz neviem čo ďalej tak skúšam aj takto silu internetu Auto začalo mať z ničoho nič zvuk ako starý naftový motor je to 2.0tsi 206kw 2017 189xxxkm Pri studenom štarte zvuk prestal, no na druhý deň vybehla kontrolka check motora. V apríli toho roku som vymenil obe magnety vačkov. Magnety N205 INA Diagnostika ukázala 2chyby 1.Snímač polohy vack/klik hriadela Signál nedôveryhodny Kontrola závad zap sporadicky 2.rada valcu 1:vackovy hriadeľ sací Nastavení pozdeji nedosazeno Prvá vec čo nám napadlo že to môžu bytrozvody, ale tie boli rozobraté, predchádzajuci majiteľ (Nemecko) niečo menil (tie plastové veci boli menené) reťaz a ozubené kolesá neboli menené. Pri odpojení konektora od výfukoveho nastavovača vačky zvuk prestal, tak pravdepodobne že bude vačka zlá. Vačka sa kúpila originál od škody komplet zo snímačom . Dal sa starý olej a čistič aby prečistil motor (trošku od karbonu) a následne sa dal nový olej filter.. starý filter sa rozrezal, bolo tam minimum bordelu . Zmeral bary na valcoch a každý mal 8 barov. Menili sa Oleje filtre Zatka vane Gumička mierky Tesnenie veka magnetov Semmering kluka Chladiaca Vacka výfuku Ventil na vačku Plech na rozvody Tesnenie vane OKrúžky vane Okružná mierka BG109 preplach Následne po výmene tychto veci sa auto naštartovalo a pri nahriatí motora olej nad 80c sa ten zvuk zase ozval a zasvietil check motora. Ďakujem vopred za nejaké rady Posielam aj poslednú diagnostiku

Update: All of the problems have persisted and some new ones have emerged: under downhill braking with a full load (three people plus luggage) the whole car was vibrating the infotainment system is very buggy, often freezing or generating random characters when entering an address into the SatNav or sometimes activating a different random function when pressing an icon on the menu "Stop/Start system error" messages occurring on the dash display The Stop/Start often doesn't even attempt to activate (with the crossed-out A icon showing on the dash display) Cruise control often surges/brakes (feels like I've changed down to 2nd and briefly got massive engine braking) Tacho display showing nonsense gear suggestions, e.g. 6 -> 1 @rum4mo I've bought a 12V plug-in voltmeter. I tested it against a multi-meter on an external power supply and in the car against a multi-meter connected directly to the battery terminals - both times it was within 0.1V, so I know it is accurate. When the car has been sitting for a few hours or overnight, the voltage is ~ 11.7-11.9V and after a journey - even a long motorway run - it is usually ~ 12.3-12.4V. This seems a bit low to me. The car has been back to the dealer twice now. The second time I discussed all of the issues in detail with the Workshop Controller when booking the car in. The first time they said they had "updated and reset all of the software" and the second time they said they had "done some more software updates". To be fair, the brakes are a lot better, but the other problems are just the same. I'm considering my next steps. Should I... buy an OBD2 scanner - is this likely to show anything useful? take the car to my local garage, where I have had previous vehicles serviced for many years, and get an independent assessment go back to the dealer and try to get some redress under the Consumer Rights Act 2015, i.e. a replacement vehicle or a partial refund be done with it and sell the car Anyone got any wisdom to share? Thanks, Andrew

hi, this works also for VW MEN2 or only Skoda?

2022 VRS estate.Mostly solid.Occasional glitches , usually phone connection issues.Had the entertainment screen replaced under warranty this year after it developed a dead spot. Apart from that no trouble whatsoever.

This is interesting. Maybe Jaguar does have a plan after all? It is a shame if traditional buyers are effectively frozen out by this divisive design, but as I said many times before, nobody was buying Jaguars. I'm also taking this article with a pinch of salt, but there's no smoke without fire, I reckon... https://www.motor1.com/news/811711/jaguar-ev-50000-people-interested/

Replaced the DSG T-stat a second time with an oem VAG. Problem is still not fixed. Just thought i got a bad dsg stat in the first place. Havent put in the hotter 92c mhale T-stat yet. That will be the next step. Will keep you posted.

Hi JN12 Need to find a fabulous independent myself. Sounds like you are a problem solver. Useful asset to all

My head unit (central screen) is completely black and not responding at all. The screen between dials on instrument panel is however, fine. Have I bricked the head unit, or does it just need a re-code? I did take it out, as needed to clean the space behind it. Not wanting it to dangle, I did disconnect it. Recently changed the battery, but that was weeks ago, and didn't cause any problems. I've found that the cabin filter only has foam on two sides, not four, so dirt was taking the easy route instead of going *through* the filter 🙄 I have ODBII, or would i need VCDS?

I suspect you’re not talking bol*x Bollix :)

It does indeed replacing the factory intake system. On the TDI. The EA288 and EA888 are totally different engines. The actual intake duct is probably very similar, but the airboxes themselves are not. You can, from what I've seen, potentially modify the TSI intake to fit the TDI, although I've no idea why you wouldn't just get a TSI intake to begin with. There's no shortage of Racingline/Forge examples.

Just to add - the jacking point on the sill is actually only for emergency use. The car isn't designed to be lifted here, if at all possible. Absolutely get a decent jack pad.

Well, this thread was a bit of a rollercoaster. I've given my car all it needs, and more, yet it keeps throwing up issues. I've now got an issue with the steering system (probably the rack, unless the drop links have decided to suddenly go), and having just spent over £800 getting some jacking point damage on the sills fixed, it''s pretty gutting. What are you thinking of next?

Thanks Norman. I appreciate the comment. Not how I wanted to bow out of 16 years of driving Skodas but there we go.

Fingers crossed. Interesting - on old BMW E36 forums it used to be: Car idling rough - camshaft position sensor Car idling rough and stalling - crankshaft position sensor.

Hi, the below shows what you described and with a nice chunk of wood to ensure you won’t damage anything I would say this seems fine.

Cheers Pete

And what do you expect after 65,000 miles without an oil and filter change? The manufacturer claims 80,000 miles without service—lol, that’s advice for the gullible. As a rule, transmission fluid in these models should be changed every 60,000 km (35,000 miles). Sure, the service schedule says engine oil gets changed every two years... lol. Of course, the engine will last as long as the warranty holds, but afterwards—you'll be left wondering, "What was I thinking?" For RS models—and especially TDI models—the engine oil should be changed every 10,000 km, and the transmission is a whole other story. RS models are driven much harder and pushed to the limit—you really need to change the transmission fluid every 35,000 miles.