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Gotta love a vigilant swear filter! 🤣 Nigh****chman?

I was happy with 49mpg total yesterday. Around 50 miles mixed driving including a stint at 80mph ish on the 23 miles back, not overly cautious throughout. That 83mpg is incredible though. Top work. Mine with a 1.5tsi DSG SE Estate.

Its hard not to observe the same type of noise that these Skodas with DSG (AT) are producing. The fact that these are with Automatic transmission and mine is with manual transmission it lead me to think that the noise must be coming from the Dual Mass Flywheel (that's the most probable common part I would think of between AT and MT). Having said that started to google and found an interesting video here (from AUDI - see below). As per the video it means that because of more modern engines with less capacity and more power (fitted with turbo) they are getting to side effects (more engine vibration at lesser revolutions) that has to be dumped better (the purpose of the flywheel) and the implementation of it desires better (in terms of operational noises). So I guess I'll have to stop here and cross my fingers every time I'll go to a trip.

My nice Quartz Grey Scout, it wasn`t my first choice of colour but @ £24,500 with heated screen and steering wheel, adaptive cruise control, pre-registered with delivery mileage and 2 years extra warranty I wasn`t going to argue.

The car's computer does tend to over read by about 5% so 83 mpg is probably somewhat less than true 80 mpg. If one is cruising at 50 mph or less the amount of horsepower to do this is less the 10 hp so one does not need much fuel to supply 10 hp or so. Do all the tricks of hyper-miling, use other vehicles to break the frontal wind resistance, coast down hills and getting near 80 mpg is entirely possible for the petrol version and the diesel version ie the 1.6 tdi with the 7 speed DSG running in ECO mode get display close to 90 mpg and be running genuine 85 mpg is possible. All that said doing this on the motorway or even A roads in the UK means running slower that many of the Articulated trucks and being a bit of a menace on the road sometimes so I tend to hop within the traffic and sometime pick a lorry travelling at around 50 mph and stay some 20 metres behind, just in his mirrors, especially when on works phone calls or early for a meeting. Something we do on the naked motorcycles sometimes, especially in to a headwind, to give our necks a rest and it helps mpg too. Amazing what one can do with a bit of slipstreaming............. or how about 127.3 mph...... https://cycling.ahands.org/bicycling/datewithdeath.html

yuo, just ignore the few posers that irritate, and continue on a happy trail compared to facebook and other car forums this place is the mary poppins institute of happiness and joy... but yeah, theres always going to be a few that get under your skin

so we kinda made a custom gauge holder for the Fabia loving the finished result put a few finger print marks on it while fitting it 😂🤣

The 245 has a semi complicated history. When the Octavia was facelifted, the standard vRS was 230bhp. They also released the 'vRS 245' as a special in 2017, which came with various extras like the wheels as standard. These were only available to order for a few months. These cars are mostly 17 or 67 plates, with a few 18 plate examples. Following this, the regular vRS then became 245bhp in 2018 but without the extras. People also call these cars a 'vRS 245'. This was accompanied by the 'Challenge' which is equivalent to the the original 'vRS 245' and has various extras as standard. Unless someone has been swapping badges a quick way to tell is the 'special edition' cars have a black V on the badges, regular cars are grey. Inside, the 'vRS 245' and 'Challenge' get a (frankly gimmicky) 'Sports Information' screen that regular cars don't (again, unless someone has modified their car to have it added). I doubt you'll notice much straight line performance difference between a 230 and a 245 car but a 245 in all its forms will have the VAQ diff that a facelift 230 won't, which may appeal to you if you drive the car enthusiastically enough.

My alcantara steering wheel looks and feels nice, but it is very difficult to keep it clean. So , I decided to purchase custom design wheel. Currently waiting for delivery , but looks very nice IMHO Real carbon top.

Not bad considering it was Friday afternoon traffic - M1 / M25 for most of it, aircon was on full and it was knocking on 32 degrees C outside the car for most of the trip.

The link on ebay is just to a screen. All the electronics in the newer VW Head Units are in the Rapids glove box

That is Amundsen Plus from the older Rapid. (VW RNS315) The newer factory units from 2015 onwards are NOT compatible with your car. Most go for a Chinese Android big screen one when upgrading.

Not forgotten, just don't care I suspect. Hoping you'll forget I expect. Get them to supply and fit something for you for free. Examples..... Front and rear Mudflaps or perhaps sill guards or perhaps a rubber boot liner or better still all of them. Plus.... A tank of fuel. 😁

Unless you actually put the thing to the test then the range shown can only be used as a comparator, everytime I have fuelled up any of my diesel Skodas for the last 15 years they have shown a range that looks achievable until you get to about 1/4 of a tank and then it plummets away. I know that the battery life indicators on computers, smartphones, tablettes, smar****ches etc all behave in the same manner, I think even when they dont want to inflate the figures its very difficult to compute battery autonomy from the cell voltage, at least with fuel guages these days they are very accurate but the deception of what is indicated in terms of range or tank level continues.

91W can be replaced with 94W, 91Y or 94Y. You might do this if 91W isn't available in the tyre brand and model that you want. For example, Vredestein Quatrac Pro isn't available in 91W but is available in 94V and 94Y. So you would choose 94Y in this case. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/tyres/vredestein-8714692347313-ap22545017yqpra02 https://www.mytyres.co.uk/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?dsco=110&cart_id=2BYOMFmnyrbJ4GxL.110.1836312619&sowigan=GAN&Breite=225&Quer=45&Felge=17&kategorie=6&Marke=Vredestein&Herst=Vredestein&m_s=3&sort_by=brand&rsmFahrzeugart=ALL&Label=E-B-71-2&details=Ordern&typ=R-400850 https://www.vredestein.co.uk/car-suv-van/tyre-finder/tyres/product/1/225/45/17/1656-quatrac-pro H speed rating is for speeds up to 210km/h (130mph) V speed rating is for speeds up to 240km/h (150mph) W speed rating is for speeds up to 270km/h (168mph) Y speed rating is for speeds up to 300km/h (186mph)

You do seem to ask the same question time and time again There's a Skoda explanation here https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/models/skoda-4x4-your-best-bet-in-the-snow/ which talks about how to drive a Karoq in the snow, and it mentions that "Of course, the throng of electronic stability systems, combined with the Snow driving mode, have got your back and will help to keep the car under control even in fraught situations. On the other hand, if you switch to a sportier mode for wheel spins and bigger skids, you’ll find gliding and watching snow fly in all directions a lot of fun." It then goes on to say that "Needless to say, 4×4 drive ŠKODAs are not afraid of off-road terrain, even when it’s covered in snow. As with on-road driving, when you’re off-road, fluidity, correctly gauging your speed and sensitive handling are essential. The wheels need to be in constant rotation because if they lock or spin you won’t be able to actively control the car." and "Turning on the Off-road driving mode can be a great help as it allows the car to overcome obstacles that would otherwise be insurmountable. And if you’re unsure what exactly is lying in wait for you ahead, don’t hesitate to get out of the car and walk some of the route on foot – this is still easier than having to shovel your car out if it gets stuck. “If you know what your car is capable of and what its limits are, you’ll be able to enjoy your 4×4 ŠKODA to the full,” explains Stuck." I've also seen it stated that "Off-Road mode is an extraordinarily complex assistant for more challenging off-road situations. The Off-Road Mode works at a speed up to 18mph, and its function can be divided into three main groups: start and traction support, braking support, and steep downhill support. When it’s activated, all the related assistance systems are switched into a special setting suitable for off-road driving. It is only suitable for driving on unsurfaced roads, and when switched on, it alters the characteristics of the ESC, ASR, EDL and ABS systems to give improved traction. (ESC helps to stabilise the vehicle by braking an individual wheel, ASR reduces the power to the wheels when they spin, EDL brakes a spinning wheel and transfers power to a different drive wheel, and ABS prevents a wheel locking under braking.)" While "Snow mode changes how the assistant systems behave so that they help the driver as much as possible on low-adhesion surfaces. The ABS anti-lock braking system, for example, allows for more wheelspin when braking to allow snow to accumulate in front of the tyres to increase the braking effect (the “wedge effect”). In turn, the anti-skid system allows for greater wheel rotation for better grip on winter tyres. The transmission shifts to higher gears at lower speeds than usual, and the accelerator pedal responds more slowly so as to prevent the wheels from jumping into spin with the added torque." Chris

You can get good prices from https://www.roofracks.co.uk/ . My preference is always for Thule bars and carriers, because they work well and can be kept and adapted with new feet when you change your car. To reach up on the roof, I find a small folding stool handy Chris

So, Just to cover the issue i had with my roof leaking. I had only owned the car a couple of days having bought it from a really good mate. My drive has a bit of an incline and after a heavy downpour I found water in both foot wells and traces of water emerging around the bonnet release in the passenger foot well. The Octavia 3 is very well put together and the interior trim is a bit of a pain to get apart, but removing the A-Pillar trims i found water travelling down the A pillars so knew it was coming from the roof. I checked and cleared the drainage tubes as above to no avail - unfortunately my trim tools wouldn't allow me to drop the headliner and i didn't really want to get into that on my driveway, so booked it into a my local VW specialist. I wet vacced a couple of litres of water out of the carpets - they didn't need lifting, been there done that before on a fiesta and it would have been a nightmare, fortunately this coincided with a little two day heatwave and I managed to get it well dried. Shampooed the carpets with some biological washing powder, hit it with a steam cleaner and then air freshener and everything came up well with no nasty pongs. My local VW place were spot on - stripped the headliner and water tested it, confirming that water was getting in from the roof. They acknowledged this wasn't their usual work and suggested i contact Skoda for any recalls or TPI's for a known issue. My two local Skoda dealerships were totally useless and said there were no known issues. In the meantime my VW independent had been in touch with a friendly bod at Audi Technical who had found a TPI directly linked to my VIN for a panoramic roof fault - sums up dealerships for you IMO. The TPI related to the seal between the bodywork and roof failing, leading to body corrosion - they could find no evidence of any corrosion but suggested it may be worthwhile as the roof would have to come out to replace the seal and this may allow for a thorough look for any further issues, so i asked them to go ahead. In the meantime i spoke with a fellow member on here who had a similar issue and had DIY'ed it, having removed the roof and found that part of the boding has failed and needed renewing. Funnily enough, when i went back to my garage, they also mentioned that they had water tested the roof out of the car and had found the bonding had failed between the roof and the plastic tray which it is supposed to be bonded to. They renewed the bonding, water tested it on the bench and there were no leaks. They then fitted the new seal, refitted the roof and water tested on the car - no leak. Touch wood a couple of months later there have been no issues - I regularly check the carpets for damp and have whipped the a pillar trims off a couple of times since to find it bone dry. I cant say exactly where they have bonded, however when lubricating the mechanism the other weeks i noticed a couple of spots of tiger seal or similar just ahead of the wind deflector hinges - this 100% wasn't there before the garage did the work, so it seems a good shout for the location of the leak - i have attached a couple of images should it assist anyone. Hopefully I never have any more issues and don't need to learn anymore about these panoramic roofs - hopefully what i have experienced will be of use to some of you though. Cheers folks

PSA have a shunt mode from the factory. ( where/when you were only shunting the car around. ) During the PDI ( Pre Delivery Inspection ) you had to remove the shunt fuse. Thanks, AG Falco

Evening mate yes it’s all stage three mapped with meth mapped in also , it was remapped and then live mapped on the road via data logging and the greddy Profec so the duration and timing is all pre set in the map from RTMG and then the boost is altered via the boost controller so around 1.7 bar is the limit of the Standard injectors and not running meth and around 2-2.05 bar with meth , I also have the DSG gearbox stage three mapped so it has launch control and smoother gear changes, really want a open rolling road day near me so I can see what it is producing but can say it’s easily over 300BHP but need the figures to back it.

Might it be item 20 here that you're describing Gary? https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2009-608/1/121-121055/

A smidge jealous of this build..

It's basic mechanical nouse which comes with experience but also becomes lost with absence of frequently working on vehicles and age. I really felt inadequate when I snapped a bolt trying to remove it a couple of years back, it may have been weak, it may have been corroded, I may have had to load it to the point where it would snap but in the past I would always have sensed the initial yield when it reached its elastic limit and backed off, you have to keep your hand in yet with ultra reliable cars we dont get the opportunities that we once had.

If the Autohold system is switched on, it sometimes helps if you apply firm pressure on the brake pedal. Releasing said pressure should = the car won't move & the RPM's drop to the normal idling speed.

The directions are in the owners manual from about page 120

Yeah, rotating 180° the bulb did the job. Thank you guys.

If the dealer wants you to register it as a '20' reg rather than a '70' car, I'd push him for a discount! He's meeting his targets for August sales but you're getting a car that will not be worth as much as a '70' car. My VW dealer gave me £350 off my Golf SV when I agreed to let him register it on the 24th of Feb as a '64' car rather than a '05'.

Pin punch will work quite well, alternatively a screw driver with a small bit of rag over the end so you dont damage the threads. However i never use ths rag and have had no problems

Here. This is 2020.

Try the 'A' button, next to the handbrake button.

You didn't, it was Langers2K 🥴 You are both such helpfull contributors that I get confused between you both!

I've just completed a 130 mile drive in my 1.5, first 100 miles at 70, last 30 at 54 (along the m27), trip computer has 57.5. I don't see why 80 isn't possible. No pulls from lorries etc.

vRS finally let me down tonight after 13 years of ownership.😩 Everything lit up as usual, but turned the key and nowt. Nearly dark, no torch, so thought, sod it, ring my breakdown provider GEM. 35 mins of pondering if it could be either the starter motor or the factory fir immobiiser perhaps before the man turned up. After a bit of ferkling, he decided to hit the starter motor with a hammer, full JC style.....and it fired up immediately.😎 Going to cost me this week, but hey ho, mustn't grumble after all these years of superb service from the black terrier. Still love it.

Defo soumds like that cable. Its quite a tight/short wire. I replaced the section of wire with a longer piece and repaired with a spade connector. Fingers crossed its been ok for 3 years now, It only needs enough current to get the signal. I used to be able to rock the car whilst starting it. After a few days this failed so i used a stick to move rhe wire. Saw me through to the weekend until i could bodge it better

Left an I-pod connected for three years with no battery issues and, apart from lockdown when the car only moved once a week, the Ipod always started up with the car (it is an old one).

I've often felt the same way. But over the years, I've come to recognise the names of the belligerent few who cause decent members like yourself to want to leave and I simply ignore everything they post. I hope you'll have second thoughts mate, but good luck with whichever you choose.

I did not disconnect the shock absorber when I did mine just the wishbone bolt. The suspension design in the video is different to mine. I seem to remember having to slightly lever up the wishbone to get it onto the trolley Jack but the gap in the photo seems excessive if everything is correct. Have you tried jacking up the wishbone? If the holes line up before the car is raised off the side Jack by the spring pressure then I would think that it is OK. You can then try the other side and see how that goes.

I have done mine and I don't remember having that much of a gap with the spring unloaded. Are you sure that you have the correct spring and that it is seated properly? Can you compare it with the one that you have taken off?

I would not spend over £600 a month on a car. Mine costs me just over £200 a month and I wont use nearly £400 a month on fuel. Tesla are overpriced and very underwhelming vehicles. Also ev cars cause more damage to the planet than people realise. The amount of natural resources that are needed purely to make the batteries needed. Also the electricity to actually charge the batteries is not free. Most come from coal powered stations and the small percentage from renewable energy sources. Suddenly these zero emission cars become quite high emissions in the making and maintening.

voilà encore un scout made in Belgium . . .

@UndertheRadar ohh I like the brake pedal switch shout. Could easily be something as simple as that. And don't presume dealers have any of the basics 🙂 I've seen some really basic stuff missed over the years. As I said before, local dealers have competent but often average mechanics. They have the luxury of having all the dealer tools and directions that make working on a particular make of car easier. Step by step stuff. But anything out of the ordinary and they can be easily tripped up.

Not sure that they'd allow all modes to be customised, but just having an option in the car settings menu would be possible.

I'm an Isle of Man (@ 30 x 9 miles) resident, so the car's lack of range won't be a consideration. There are 3 things that the EV version will be of benefit to me. 1) It's an automatic, so that'll give my ageing left knee an easier time prior to a total knee replacement and Covid has caused the cancellation of elective surgery. 2) It's possible to set the heater and/or seats to come on whilst charging the car, so toasty warm (and safer) in the winter. 3) No engine to service (oil changes/spark plugs/filters etc), regenerative braking will save on discs/pads and it'll mean the end of the dreaded noisy transmission on the fossil vehicle. My Colours model is due for replacement in 4 years and I'll be buying electric next time around.

Why don't you like 3 cylinder engines? Modern 3 cylinder s are smooth and responsive while providing improved MPG.

Because both Felicia 1.6 and Felicia 1.9 engines have self adjusting valves clearance by using hydraulic tappets? 😎

Try this, and also a gearbox oil change.

Schoolboy error. Forgot to remove wheel chocks I'd set on the other wheel. 😂

Firstly, it's been a long time since I've been called "Junior" - Old Git seems to be a closer fit these days. The reasons why I still have my 2013 Yeti are various. When Skoda announced they were bringing the Yeti to an end I did consider ordering a new one but it was perhaps a year too early; I had the 5 year warranty and had had no problems with the car at all so I'd have been taking quite a hit on depreciation. I also rather like the quirky Classic front end, one of the attractions when I bought it. It's now 7 years old but still reliable, only has 58,000 miles on the clock, depreciation has levelled out a lot and to change would mean buying a used three(?) year old that might not be as reliable and without the light interior I've grown used to. And finally, I'm tight with my money. If I spent say £10,000 on a replacement that's £10,000 less to run my fingers through as I count my wealth by the light of the slightly extravagant two candles I permit myself.

@mrk2000 Just be aware that Main Dealers Techs with all the gear can still be near clueless. @Sittingbull's DSG was a 'inbetweeny', Between '34F7' & '34H5', as in got neither and had the Flashing White spanner then it ended up at Parks Skoda Hamilton and this sorry tale resulted. Main Dealers wrongly are named Main Stealers, in their case it was error on the car and error after error with their employees. Comedy of errors that cost him rather too much. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/444617-7sp-dq200-dsg-failure

0478 is the latest version I have available. I think this is not the issue of SW version but either: - incorrect coding (pls paste yours) - outdated FEC/SWaP (pls paste screen shot of all FEC/SWaP codes that are installed in your unit) - wrong data on SD card (pls paste screenshot showing folder structure) - non-original SD card (card must have deicated CID to work)