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At least when I was logging the levelling system on my FL MK2 Octavia, it would dynamically react to acceleration/deceleration to keep the headlight range in check. That should also cover the weight transfer going up/down hill as it can adjust to keep the headlights a set angle from the road surface jut using the two level sensors. Take a look at graph I made ages ago, you can see larger changes in speed cause the headlight range/aim to change. As expected, they point up during braking and down during acceleration The AFS master coding seems to take into account being installed with MK70 'ABS' systems and MK60 'ABS + ESP' systems. The former has no pitch/roll/yaw data whereas the later does. That suggests it's at least receiving the data but I don't know what it does with it. As for bumps, I doubt the headlight motors can react quick enough to do anything meaningful to avoid brief moments of glare but the system might aim slightly low to reduce glare when the suspension is working hard. If I remember correctly, the sensors run at 200Hz which gives an idea of the maximum plausible adjustment rate. Obviously I have no data to back this theory up The latest AFS versions can include 'predictive lighting' where satnav data is used to predict where the headlights will need to point due to up coming corners etc. It's plausible they can react to upcoming crests and dips. I've also seen examples where the lane assist camera can pick out the taillights of a car in from and adjust the headlight height from those too. These features can all be implemented with xenon/bi-xenon or led/bi-led headlights. Matrix lights are fun as they can turn individual LEDs on/off to give permanent high beams without glare. However, the SSL technology is even better and give incredibly fine control of light distribution including the ability to show warning signs etc on the road ahead.

Back in March when I got the Tesla I was asked if I would do a post about how it was going. Obviously events have meant I have yet to get much driving done, though we did manage to fit in a trip over to Belfast so I do have somethign on which to report. First up, having driven a Leaf for the last two years I am used to the instant torque and crazy accelaration, though the model 3 takes this to a level where I have yet to have the nerve to fully floor it. It is that powerful, mine is the base version so it only has 245 bhp. Handover was in the first week of lockdown, so it was totally touchless. I had to wait outside at a distance, they brought the car out, and then went back inside before I could approach the car and drive away (having paid the night before). Firstly, you'll have heard of issues with build quality. Right now it seems that Tesla haven't a clue about quality control and it is a lottery whether you get one that's perfect or a nightmare. In fairness most of the issues are related to the bodywork and the cars are driveable. It's not like a mechanical failure on an ICE (internal combustion engine) vehicle. Mine had:- 1) a scratch across the boot 2) a mis aligned bonnet (frunk) 3) the nose of the car hadn't had dirt removed before they painted it so it needed a new front end 4) driver's door misaligned 5) driver's door window wouldn'tclose properly 6) a rear quarter panel mis aligned 7) and it later emerged there was insufficient coolant in the battery cooling system (more of which below) These were all reported at handover - something you do via the app, and then attach photos. Tesla then allocate a repair appointment. The repair process is actually very slick though it was not great to have so much chance to witness it. Having had 10 Skodas starting with an Estelle and finishing with a 2015 Octavia I have never been accustomed to this level of defects. It was also filthy inside, covered in dust and grime from transit. I put this down to the fact that they were trying to minimise exposure to covid. The first appointment available due to COVID was 2 months later. 8 weeks passed and at the end of May they took the car in (touchless again) . They fixed the door and the window but the rest would have to await parts. More weeks, and then months, passed and since the defects were by now just cosmetic I didn't chase them. Last week, at the end of August, the car started whining and buzzing really loudly. It sounded like there were fans running and there was a lot of liquid gurgling sounds. I asked on a Tesla forum and was told off by Tesla fanboys - "all normal", "stop moaning". Basically don't question the sacred Tesla, if there's a fault I was told, the car will tell you via the screen. Except it didn't and there really was a fault. I logged it with a video. Within 12 hours an engineer phoned, they had connected to the car, run tests and established that the coolant level was very low. Seriously impressive. So a service appointment was booked, and I asked about all the other faults. "Faults? We've got no record of any faults?" Turns out they had forgotten totally. The merits of dealing with a new company that is selling cars as fast as it can make them. They then fixed everything within a week. So this week I have had my car fully repaired, everything looks like it should and they have filled the coolant to the level it shoud have had when it left the factory. So what to make of it? Well it is phenomenally efficient. EVs measure economy in miles per kWh (Tesla use Wh per mile but they just have to be different it seems). My leaf was pretty good and in the Summer would get around 4.5 miles per kWh, in the winter 3.8 was normal. So far since March I have been getting around 7 miles per kWh in the tesla. The equivalent in MPG terms is somewhere in excess of 200 MPG - Impressive. I can't comment on the supercharger network as they are few and far between in Scotand and I have been using the standrad Scottish Government chargers instead. Not all of them though because again Tesla haven't complied 100% with standards because quite a few of the older chargers simpoly do not detect that the car is connected. Driving it is different from any other car I have driven due to the large central screen, but you quickly get used to it. It's not though as good in many respects as Android Auto which I had in the leaf and the Octavia. Yiou ahve to pay £120 extra per year for data connectivity to use spotify or Tune in, no other apps are available. I used to use waze and pocket casts but those are not available to me. Elon says there's no need. Spotify is available but it si not as good as normal spotify, your music is in an entirely random order, nothing as boring as being in alphabetical order. You can of course use voice commands exceot they don't work anything like as reliably as google's version.One example, today I said "play Radio Scotland" to get the radio retuned. It played something called Hooked on a Feeling by a Swedish folk band. Don't even try asking it to navigate "command not understood". I aksed it to navigate to Drumnadrochit (ok that's a tough one but google can do it) - it thought I was trying to say something about a drunken doorkit and said it didn't understand. The excuse given to justify the 15 inch screen instead of buttons is that yuou'r esupposed to use voice commands, but in my experience they work only around 20% of the time. I can turn the heating up and down but pretty much nothing else works. ANother issue is that the sat nav is, well, pretty random. Not all the time but a heck of a lot of it. I asked it for a route from my house to my parents, around 12 miles. It suggested a 70 mile detour to the other side of Scotland. Like I say, random. When we went to Northern Ireland, the obviosu route is via the M77 and A77 - not for Tesla, It suggested a variety of B roads. Often re planning the route produces a more sensibke route but the point is if it is doing this on routes I do know how can I trust it when I am in strange territory? Answer is I can't. So i have gone back to mounting my phone in a cradle and using that as my sat nav. speaking of phones, like many people I have 2, one for work and a personal phone. In Skoda and Nissan I could connect both to bluetooth at the same time. WHichever one rang it was OK I could answer hands free. In the tech marvel that is the Tesla?? Sorry, only one connection at a time. Baffling. Speaking of Northern Ireland, that was somethign of a nightmare. We have done the trip in a leaf without issue, but the leaf uses the much older chademo charge port, rather then the eurpen standard CCS which is in the tesla. For unknown reasons Northern Ireland has only 14 rapid chargers, that's bad, but only half of them have CCS, the other half afre CCS and chademo. To make matters worse many of them are in shop car parks and these are locked shut when the shops close. In a SUnday you can only charge from 1pm to 5pm. More of a criticism of NI than Tesla but coming from Scotland where we have a very pro EV governmen and charging hubs springing up around the country it was a shock to the system. So how would I sum it up? It is an amazing car, probably the most advanced car I have ever owned, and yet lacking in every day tech like a sat nav that works or smart phone integration. Telsa want you to use their system and pay £120 per year extra for it. It is also badly let down by the abysmal quality control. Quite how they can send cars out of the factory with dirt underneath the paintwor is beyond me. Taking 5 months to fix it? Well it was cosmetic so didn't stop me using the car but it is hardly ideal. I had been due to buy a VW ID3 but they messed me around no end and couldn't guarantee I would get a car so I jumped ship. Now that the ID3 is arriving I am feelign a touch of regret. The model 3 is bigger than I really need and the VW would probably be a better fit with my needs. And yet 0-60 in 5 seconds is fun when you have a BMW M3 trying to ride your back bumper. Bottom line though is that with the SKoda Enyaq coming in December and more models likely in 2021 they are going to face a lot more competition. Even now cars like the e niro have a 7 year warranty and on a 50 kW charger it wil actually charge faster than the Tesla (don't tell the fanboys but this is true I have seen it with my own eyes).. Actually that last part may change on my car now that Tesla have actually filled it with the collant fluid it should have had from day 1, as I understand it that is used to both warm and cool the battery to keep it at the optimum charnign temperature. SO it's a mixed bag, it is impressive, and frustrating. I'm in a £40k+ car where I have to use my phone to navigate and a bluetooth headset to ensure I can answer both phones. I had to wait 5 months to get the car in a state which it would have been had there been a proper PDI carried out. But the way you can ghet a diagnosis remotely from a Tesla engineer is very impressive. But competition is growing and Tesla won't have it all their own way for long. Polestar 2 is starting to arrive in numbers and VW will be delivering at scale by the end of 2020. Would I buy another one? On balance, probably not. PS I forgot to add, not only does Spotify cost you an extra £120 a year, the car comes with no spare wheel, no tyre repair kit and you're advised to take out separate recovery as Tesla recovery will only recover you within 50 miles of a Tesla service centre (there's none on Norhtern Ireland and only one in Scotland (ie 33% of the UK land mass)

I read this thread with Interest - My wife has a new high spec 2008 Peugeot which is on a PCP so we dont own it - consequently we use it for most of the journeys together - my 15 Black Edition Yeti 4WD however has low mileage and is used when we need two cars - at the weekend i did 400 odd miles in the new Pug and its full of features , screens and a flash dash - good on fuel turned 58 mpg over the trip with mixed roads - But last night i used the Yeti to travel only 15 miles , what can i say - what a far superior driving experience - better visibility , smoother , more accurate steering , logical dash and Music system - like an old shoe - so much better - i only let her drive the Yeti once which she liked but this new car is very poor - it got a load of awards - backwards step - Yetis rock !

If the first 2 reg letters range from KM - KY I think these are the Skoda HQ mgmt cars, it could be a reason why it's had 2 owners. I.e sold on after 6 months. Check if it's stolen recovered, ideally you would test drive it and check the paint/ bodywork for dents etc. 30-32 Mpg is normal for shortish commutes, probably worse if pure town work. the mileage suggests that it was driven regularly, check if it needs its 1st oil service. It should be under warranty and may be cheaper as it's not at a franchised dealer.

Updated two of the images on the Columbus to better match the sportline.

3/9/20 3 Weeks of Golf Ownership and I am still very happy with the Car, Today I had a Mobile Paintless Dent Removal Company come out to the House and remove the 2 x Small Car Park Dings that the Car has which where both on the Passenger Side of the Car. As far as I knew these where the only Dings on the entire Car but I also had him glance his eye over the Car to confirm. I went with a Company local to myself called ADS in Sheffield, The Chap who came was very Professional and commented on how Clean the Golf was considering its age. The Ding in the Passenger Front Door was dealt with using a Glue and a Hook as he couldn't get access from the Rear due to some Strengthening Bars in the Door and the Ding on the Passenger Rear Door was removed from the Rear. Well worth the £90 it cost in my opinion! Before... After...

I genuinely don't get the point of the really small engines. You're sacrificing day to day usability for the hope of a few pennies in fuel savings. The 1.4/1,5TSI has a very good combination of power and economy. Hell, somebody posted on here recently about getting 80+ mpg from a 1.5. A friend has a 1.4 TSI and averages above 50mpg. Another friend has a 1.4 Leon with the same engine. Again, very economical and pretty nippy. No issues with day to day power. The savings you'll get in fuel from a smaller engine are negligable in real world money terms. The difference between 50mpg an 60mpg isn't huge, nowhere near as significant as 25mpg to 35mpg. I don't understand why people chase the high numbers as they're saving such little amounts of money quite often, it's just a psychological desire to get a higher number rather than an actual cost saving benefit. You're also more likely to stamp on the pedal more often and drive it harder, negating any benefit. The 1.4/1.5 is the sensible choice for a person who wants economy from a petrol octavia. TBH though, I wouldn't consider lower than the vRS myself and didn't when I was looking. Considering I manage over 30mpg including all my short journeys and can top 45-50mpg on a motorway at a steady speed it's still pretty economical. Insurance is dirt cheap, tax is cheap. Not saying it's the sensible choice and you don't NEED over 200bhp. But the 1.4/1.5 gives the economy benefits without the frustration of having to think about power. The biggest cost of having a reasonably new car is depreciation and that'll outweigh the savings in fuel by miles.

Yeah i've seen you can replace the pulley but i just got a 3 month old alternator from a 1.9 TDI estate MK1, turns out there the same part so i picked that up for £35, replacement belt for £21 and fitting was just over 50. so £110 all in to get a new alternator, belt and labour which im happy about!

Common things that can cause vibrations... Tyres - Bulging, Damaged (flat spot), out of round - These should be easily spotted when the tyre is balanced Alignment - Wheels pointing in the wrong direction, wrong camber or caster. Engine & gearbox mounts - Damaged, loose, worn. Axles/CV joints - Bent, worn or damaged Suspension - Bent or lose components and particularly damaged loose or worn bushings. Strut tower mounts. Shock absorbers - Worn or damaged. Incorrect compression and or rebound rates Drive-shafts - Half-shaft bearings damaged worn or loose. Bent shafts Gearbox / Engine - Harmonic balancer failure. DSG Dual mass flywheel issues. Misfires. A dealer should be checking all the usual suspects.

Today I've replaced the park tickets retainer on the windscreen. Indeed, it had been broken (and glued to hide the mistake 🤬) upon windscreen replacement several months ago. A good opportunity to write a "How to..." thread to explain the way to: - remove the A-pillar trim panel - replace the park tickets retainer.

Not sure why anyone is debating if BEVs are for them and especially if not. EU mandates mean mild hybrids, phevs and BEVs will be the only choices outside of performance oriented cars. BEVs suit a certain type of buyers that can take advantage of the tax breaks and charging routine that works for them. I am a fan of BEVs (I'll take a free taycan) and it's annoying to see EVangelists go on about how and how BEVs are better but it's also annoying to see the opposite giving all the reasons they won't buy a BEV. End of the day, get something that suits you. Make no mistake, VAG will sell significant amounts of BEVs this year and year on year after that. Edit: I wanted to say I am a fan of BEVs but they are too expensive (for the range/spec) to me as I like to buy used. Maybe in 5 years or so there will be a good amount around and I might be driving one.

This happened at the begining of the year. got hit in the heavy winds. Then covid started so didn't get the car sorted till recently. Now it looks mint, roof and rear boot and bumper repainted.

So has anyone done any VCDS coding on their Karoq (will work on other cars as well) yet some of the ones I have done so far... Traffic Speed Sign Recognition Rain Close sunroof and windows DRL off with hand brake Auto High Beam Display fan speed in auto mode. Ambient lighting 30 Colours Audio confirmation lock and unlock

Hi all, I had my windscreen replaced some months ago by my local dealer. Everything went well, except... I didn't noticed they had broken (and glued to hide their mistake 🤬) the retainer for park tickets! Since, I was not able to prove this several months later, I've bought a new one to replace it on my own. A good opportunity to make a tutorial. P/N : 3V0 867 333 - 0.72€ First of all, wash your hands before starting to avoid dirty finger prints on the trim panel, especially if you have light grey or 'ivory' interior, To remove the A-pillar trim panel, use a large and flat lever (a wooden spatula should be ok too ). Insert it on the upper part between the door seal and the trim panel, so that you can push approximately the center part of the panel on the rear side to unclip it: Then repeat this at middle height of the trim panel to keep on uncliping the trim panel. In red circles below, the 2 clips once the trim panel is uncliped. Now, you just need to pull the trim panel upward to remove it completely. Once this is done, if you have a sun roof, start uncliping the water drain hose of the sunroof (red circle), to get a better access to the spreader rivet which fixes the park tickets retainer (both in blue rectangle): Then you just need to pull the spreader rivet head (if necessary, use a small fork ;)): Now put the brand new park tickets retainer in place and press the spreader rivet head to fix the retainer. You can now start reinstalling the A-pillar trim panel. Be sure to engage correctly the lower outer corner in the door seal and the lower inner edge in the dashboard: Then get out of the car and stand along the A-pillar and adjust the trim panel height, looking thru the windscreen: Check the lower clip is in front of the slot in the A-pillar. Do the same for the upper clip Then just press firmly the trim panel, starting with the lower clip. If necessary, don't hesitate: A firm hit with your closed fist 😁! Press the trim panel at the upper side to completely clip it. You may then have to make some slight adjustments to get a nice positionning (no bump, no dent under your fingers, when sliding your hand along the trim panel). Done! 😎

Don't know about you guys, but once you have had a vehicle with a self dipping mirror you tend to miss it.......and it's always annoyed me the fabia don't have one, now there is one listed in the parts catolouge and I did think of gettting one of those, however I would not have had the loom in the vehicle, so would have had to purchase that + it most probably is quite expensive.............. If your not aware 99% of oem mirrors are made by Gentex, so bought one of those and a simple 2 wire installation and its all done, looks completely factory, you have to also buy the adpater to fit the VAG screen mirror mount and I wanted to hide the wire so bought the loom cover to.......................very pleased 😁 total about £90 ish... The thing I do like is it has a button to turn itoff if you so desire.

Damn you people and your wagons! The only missing piece of my RS puzzle! Haha never heard it used as an adjective before, but the meaning is obvious. Wonderful! Mine is in the quite similar steel grey, and FWIW in the space of a month I've had probably 6 or 7 different people comment on how nice it looks You can claw a little bit of steering feel back by setting it to "sport" in the drive settings. I don't think it does much aside from reducing the assistance (outside of parking), but it's better than nothing.

Ask them what the names are in the tax book. Might be demo or management car and then 1 private owner, who either didn’t get on with it or cause of Covid had to sell it on (who knows). Ask for a video walk through and any damage on wheels or dents etc to be pointed out in video, so you have the request set out as proof you asked in an email. Ask about damage or paintwork etc as well. Ideally I’d want it serviced before you get it as well. These extended service intervals are daft. 10k every 12 months is max I’ll run to. Bought mine from the mainland and had it shipped over that way, as wasn’t that well and couldn’t be annoyed travelling. I know I’m in the North, but Johnston transport brought mine over for me and were absolutely fantastic about pick up and delivery etc. I’ve a feeling they come in through the port in Dublin anyway, so might be another option to try for you as well. The warranty will cover you anyway, and any hassle can be run up here to get it looked at, but can’t see why you’d have to. Any Skoda dealer will cover it.

Just dropped you a message

My two pence worth, others will be along for sure. 1 : I'm in a 2016 SEL, so have not seen the menu structure in a VRS, so I might be corrected for your model, but press the furthest right button (sort of Return Arrow )on the MFSW (Multi function steering wheel) and use the right scroll wheel to get to DRIVING DATA, and release or press the scroll wheel (click) this will then hold that menu on the MAXI DOT screen in front of you, then scroll around that menu (some can be added and removed from the Infotainment CAR Button Settings pages) and again click this will then hold the data on the screen. on MPG pages, you can press the right scroll button to scroll through the data values such a Long Term MPG, Since refuel, Since start. 2: The lovely VW group decide, yes it can be changed from Variable (2 yr ) to Fixed 10K. What's your annual expected mileage? 3: Yes and no and been debated on here an awful lot. Inspection service, extended scope, they drag the hell out some parts changed unless you ask them to do it and they try and charge you extra bit of minefield in the dealerships. 4: Cannot comment 5: Cannot comment. 6: Now go out to the car in the dark and play with menu's whilst the other half wonders where the hell you've gone for several hours:-)

Seen that ad. Iirc it has Canton too. Check who are the owners , first could be Skoda registered. See if Honda dealer tells you why it was traded in. Maybe the guy wanted a type r? Also like above, check if stolen etc.

I've tried speaking to them aboiut that, they claim they need to get to 100%. Selfish morons. As a tesla driver if I was at Perth and a leaf or corsa needed to charge I would move. But I have paid my £20 a year same as they have so I am entitled to use the chargers

I got my new Superb Combi iV with the SoundSystem last week and in my opinion the sound is much better in the new Superb than in my 2017 Kodiaq with the Canton system. No subwoofer in the Superb but enough bass from the door speakers to play modern rock music quite loud with better tonal balance than the Kodiaq's Canton system. I checked my order confirmation and it states Canton system with 11 speakers, no subwoofer but the badges on my speaker grilles says SoundSystem as previous posters have noted. I really don't care what it says on the badge as long as the sound quality is good. If I did care for badges, I wouldn't be driving a Skoda...🙂

There is another thread for posting pictures but from what I can see in this thread you can post your thoughts and a few pics alongside specifying what you own.

There has been some iPhone issues, but not too recently, which required the phone and infotainment to both be unpaired and then re-paired. I seem to remember that it was following an iPhone update. Worth a try?

VAQ oil change every 3 years

As a slight aside, but a similar problem - I once had something like this on my Mk2 Cooper S (my icon) it was a rally car I built for competition in a couple of Internationals in '73. While out on a recce for the Safari Rally in New Caledonia, the engine revs increased without corresponding increase in speed - it turned out that the driveshaft splines had sheared inside the left-hand hub and the shaft 'wound up' the hub nut, after shearing the split-pin, until it was tight enough to lock the hub to the shaft! I drove most of a division (at least 6 special stages) like that before discovering the problem. I didn't have a LSD fitted.

Or alternative caption "Child Worker kisses Father Worker" based upon the headphones.

Stop start.

Agreed. This thread is supposed to be about the Skoda Enyaq, not the pros and cons of running an EV. There is at least half a dozen of those already!

I’m confused as to how we got to borderline uploading PDFs of our wage slips in here.

Regarding the weight transfer on inclines, aside from the test hills at MIRA, Brooklands etc road gradients rarely exceed 6% and the majority are far less than that, also as the vehicle is inclined from the level position (C of G vector in line with suspension axis) the loading on the vehicle suspension reduces, part of the load being transmitted ditectly through the mountings to the wheels, at 45% the suspension springs are supporting half of the load that they would on level ground. If a vehicle were set up on a testing platform with an MOT type headlamp beam tester set up in front, if the platform were inclined to say a 10% inclination I doubt that the beam height would move visibly or measurably. Good to see definitive proof that the system reacts fast enough to react to squat and dive when accelerating and decelerating, the limiting factor of the motorised headlamp adjutment is the mechanical reaction time, the use of multi-LEDs would remove that, nonetheless there would have to be some lag in the system as when a vehicle hits a speedhump not only does it physically incline as the front wheels pass over which the suspension height sensors would not detect but it would compress the front suspension which the sensors would detect and that would tell the system to raise the beam height, the opposite of what is needed. Aside from people with LED bulbs or HID conversions badly aligned and/or without the levelling systems the only times that I am blinded by oncoming LED/HED headlights is momentary flashes on a bumpy road, something that always happened before with halogen lights, its just much more dazzling now especially for eyes with the onset of cataracts which cause no other vision deficiency. And in fact its worse after the operation because the lens implant does not have the UV filtering that the natural crystalin lens has, a black light UV note detector looks as bright as a normal neon tube.

If BT isn't enabled in the headunit, it'll need turning on but after that point, it should just work assume the mic is correct and wired in to the right pins. If it doesn't work, find a local VCDS user to check for fault codes and go from there. It was a very popular mod on Octavia vRS blacklines as they tended to have a BT capable Amundsen+ but no mic:

According to Castrol’s website: Service fill: 4.7L Dry fill: 5.3L Although I must admit I stuck 5L in mine when I serviced it. 😳 The dip stick isn’t the easiest one to read.

so the car is in having the rear discs and pads replaced this morning. £160 inc vat all in from Rivus Fleet Solutions - formerly BT Fleet - who have branched out into doing private work. Decent brakes too - and from the reviews, better than the ones the Kodiaq comes out the box with! Will reserve judgement till they are done - but at best part of £200 cheaper than the dealer, I'm happy so far!

It looks nice, Can you share link to check out ?

I keep a spare in my wallet to save messing around with the lock.

Renault complained that the Racing point Brake ducts were a copy of the Mercedes brake ducts of the previous years car. Both teams denied this and although the FIA ruled that Racing point had broken the rules they were allowed to continue using the parts. When it comes to cheating look no further than Singapore 2008, where Renault made one of their drivers to crash forcing a safety car to allow their other driver to win the race.

There is an unfortunate tendency amongst the 'fuelmisers' (and I include myself) to emphasise the best attained figures so those 60+mpg figures would probably be achieved on a long run. Real life, which includes local short runs, drag down actual averages and in brettikivi's locality he gets severe adverse winter conditions and extensive use of the pre-use engine heater, which also burns fuel. I've followed brettikivi's consumption reports for years and I'd say his two 1.0tsi have been consistently 5+ mpg better than I would expect to achieve with my 1.4tsi at a given speed set speed between 100 to 120 kph. Strangely, at lower average speeds the difference is less clear, but there may be other factors involved there. Regrettably the 1.0tsi Octavia has never been available in Australia otherwise I would probably have bought one although it would also have to be a manual because I agree with you that they are generally more economical although that may not be as true on a run as the DSG box's have a longer top gear. Re-reading the OP's requirements I still think the 1.0tsi would meet his requirements although in those situations with the full family load and the top box in hilly conditions then the extra torque from the 1.4tsi could be useful. Either way the OP will not get 60 mpg in those conditions but I'd expect ~40mpg (main problem being drag from the roof box).

It's a weaponised killer insect!!!!!!!!!!!!

October or November 😀

Could it be possible that one of the alloy wheel rims has been damaged and is not perfectly round ? If the car had hit a bad pothole in the road then this may have damaged both the tyre and the wheel, but it is much more difficult to detect damage to the wheel. One wheel that is not perfectly round would cause severe vibration but might well look ok on visual inspection.

I have a drone noise between 20-35mph & suspect the front tyres are the culprit, as they are worn to the point of requiring replacement. The noise isn’t loud but is noticeable. Luckily I am getting them replaced next Monday whilst the alloys are being refurbed. I shall report back next week to see if there is any difference. Current Tyres are Michelin Crossclimates & will be replaced with Crossclimates+ as I am very pleased with how they perform in all weather conditions.

You can have your own unit refurbished at ecutesting.com

Im sorry this sounds a bit rude but i very much doubt theres no dazzle. Last year driving home on winter evenings on country roads as i do on my 80 mile daily commute, you could literally tell a mile off the cars that had non standard lights. Additionally in the rain its bloody horrendous, the glare off a wet road with the smooth black silent tarmac (as opposed to the roads where they shove a bit of glue on and then throw the chippings on) is catastrophic when driving towards them .... Im going to say some are worse then others. Agree - I read some bulb reviews and whilst they appear to be brighter some are actually dimmer. Even testers suggested a good quality halogen upgrade was better. Some of those bulbs have built in fans which just suggest they are running far too hot. If you look at an LED bulb from the ones i have seen you can tell straight off that its not a halogen bulb (unless hidden behind a parabolic lens). Cars with factory LED tend to have the LED concealed or behind a lens to distribute the light correctly. Factory Xenons on cars within Europe require washers and levellers. In an nutshell they need washers to remove any dirt on the lens as the light being produced gets easily distorted and can cause glare. Im surprised this isnt a requirement of LED lights as well - the X trail i had a few years ago had LEDS and i had to clean the lights daily over winter as the light output was significantly reduced when even slightly dirty. Levellers are required to keep the lights levelled when going up / down hill and carrying heavy loads etc to stop blinding other drivers. Heat shouldnt be an issue for the bulb itself as its running 35W HID as opposed to 55W halogen. I always found that in my old Scout that had factory Xenons that in the snow the snow built up quicker and stuck more to the lamps so i ended up washing the lights more to clear the snow.

Found a couple of cracks in the tublier manifold.. so i will be getting the standard one ported. Shouldnt really loose any power either which is good.

There will be a bunch of codes on the headlamp somewhere, it's can be: - on a sticker - moulded into the body - moulded on the lens - a combination of these Most codes are listed here: https://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/lights/codes/codes.html Example sticker from a pre-FL MK3 halogen headlight, the HC and HR codes state it has halogen low and high beams: At least in the OP's case, the tester should easily be able to see the aftermarket LED sticking out in the middle of the reflector. Given no manufacturer has anything like that as stock, it'll be super obvious it's not right. It's impossible to make an LED meet the requirements for a H7 bulb as the requirements basically need it to be halogen. It would be no brighter (just whiter) as the bulb specification defines the maximum output It's very hard to actually make an LED match a filament bulb as they have completely different characteristics. Even more so when trying to get the LED to fit in the same size/location as a filament with 360 degree light output. You can see below the halogen filament is pretty consistent where as the xenon and LEDs both have much brighter 'hotspots' which would need controlling by the headlights optic design: The washers have nothing to do with heat or keeping the xenons cool as xenon systems should run cooler than halogen systems as they are more efficient The washers are there to keep the lenses clean (ish) as dirt on the lens causes the light to diffuse and can cause glare to other road uses. All headlight systems with an output over 2000lm require washers I think all LED system require self levelling too if I remember correctly...

Look what they hid away behind the "Techy Stuff" tab:

I can supply screens for a lot of the new MIB stuff from stock, but the one you want has always been silly money.

☺️And why wouldn't they?

brilliant. very informative write up codling99