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I'm looking at this

Ahhhh ! Did someone mention exhaust flaps ?

Unfortunately type 13 is not an option with Carista but I tried the others: Type none - welcome to Skoda (default on mine) Type 1 - vRS Type 2 - scout Type 3 - Laurin & klement Type 4 - n/a (welcome to Skoda) Type 5 - n/a (welcome to Skoda) Type 6 - n/a (welcome to Skoda) Type 7 - Monte Carlo Also tried the instrument cluster start logo: Type 1 - Skoda (default on mine) Type 2 - vRS Type 3 - Laurin & Klement Type 4 - Scout Type 5 - blank Type 6 - sportline Type 7 - Skoda Type 8 - blank seemed a bit hit and miss with the ones that were blank (depended on what was set before it seems) and the infotainment blank ones certainly set the “module incorrectly coded” flag but the other seem to work fine. Pity none of the options for the infotainment are relevant for my car so I’ve left alone but I was pleased to discover the instrument cluster one had a sportline one so I’ve kept that! pics below:

Can I suggest perhaps it is time to issue an deadline for this to be resolved after which you will start legal action - if you are prepared to go down that route as there is no point making the threat if you can't/won't follow through? Presumably everything is well documented so you can show they were made aware of the fault within warranty and no-one has told you that it is a series of different faults which have been rectified but all unfortunately around the gearbox. Martin Lewis's Money Saving Expert site is very good with its layman's guide to the law but my understanding is that if a defect is brought to the attention of the dealer (as that is who you have your contract with) within the warranty period they can't later dismiss your claim because time has run on and the car is now out of warranty. It's important to remember that although Skoda UK can be helpful in getting things resolved to protect the Skoda reputation you don't have a direct claim against them. There's also some interesting stuff about only being entitled to make one repair. Might be worth sitting down with your paperwork and making a list of the key dates, what was agreed/diagnosed, by whom, what action was taken and the outcome. This could go with a letter (I'd send it recorded delivery) to the dealer setting out what you want done, by when and in the absence of resolution what you will do next. A summary of the issues may also may be helpful if you do have to involve a solicitor and help keep any costs down. One final thought, whilst a letter from a solicitor might focus the dealer's attention if you feel capable the Small Claims Court could offer you a way forward. I've used it a couple of times now for disputes and the paperwork is easy to complete (you can download it to have a look), you don't need to be represented by a solicitor either in court or to prepare the application - and in fact the guidance suggests this should be avoided if possible - and it's cheap; making an application to the court costs around £80 from memory. The hearings I've attended were in small conference rooms with just the judge, myself and a couple of defendants. Even if you lose provided the case was "reasonable" (as this would seem to be, it's not premature, frivolous or vindictive) it's extremely unlikely either side would be awarded costs against the other so all you'd be risking would be your time and court fees. If you got a judgement in your favour then you will have a CCJ against the dealer and then if necessary this can then be enforced by High Court Sheriffs - there is a small fee to have the case transferred to the High Court and Sheriff fees but you should get that back. Sheriffs (I think they are now called High Court Enforcement Officers) have additional powers over bailiffs including being able to enter commercial premises to seize goods. I suspect you wouldn't need to go that far - a solicitor's letter and possibly filing an application to the court should get their attention; no reputable business wants to find itself in court with an unhappy customer with the attendant bad publicity. If you do decide to file an application I would get two or three estimates to have the work done elsewhere and ask for a judgement for either the work to be completed by a specific date or the cost of having the work done elsewhere including any incidentals, such as rental car - if you don't ask it won't be in the Court Order. Good luck. (I should make clear I'm not a legal professional just a stroppy b*****d whose had to learn the hard way).

YES!!!!!!!! One down, one to go.

I did this way

hello, i retrofited rear electric window (from mechanical to electric pulling). the rear windows work fine for me. driver motor window is also changing (from 5JA 959 811 K to 6V1 959 801 B), modified I have a complete wiring according to the diagram. and there is a problem coding changed according to another car with electric rear windows. I already have a visible motor for the driver's door (left-hand drive) in the list of units the problem is that the driver's window reacts in the opposite way (if I press "up", the window goes down. if I press "down", the window goes up. I don't know where the error is. I don't have another engine to test yet. is it still possible to modify the encoding somewhere? in unit 09 for FHSG DRV, despite the original cable, I do not have a description of bytes and bits. coding is the same as another car with the original engine full scan (errors unit 17 and 5F is from another modifiing): Saturday,18,April,2020,20:32:00:21987 VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x86 VCDS Version: 20.4.0.1 HEX-V2 CB: 0.4513.4 Data version: 20200331 DS317.0 www.Ross-Tech.com VIN: TMBJN6NJ7GZ173417 License Plate: Mileage: 98956km-61488mi Repair Order: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Chassis Type: NJ-SK26 (6C0) Scan: 01 03 08 09 10 15 17 19 20 44 5F VIN: TMBJN6NJ7GZ173417 Mileage: 98956km-61488miles 01-Engine -- Status: OK 0000 03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000 08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000 09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000 10-Park/Steer Assist -- Status: OK 0000 15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000 17-Instruments -- Status: Malfunction 0010 19-CAN Gateway -- Status: OK 0000 20-High Beam Assist. -- Status: OK 0000 44-Steering Assist -- Status: OK 0000 5F-Information Electr. -- Status: Malfunction 0010 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 01: Engine (J623-CJZD) Labels:. 04E-907-309-V1.clb Part No SW: 04E 906 027 BC HW: 04E 907 309 AF Component: R4 1.2l TFS H23 9086 Revision: R4H23--- Coding: 01190012232415080000 Shop #: WSC 65048 003 104857 ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM12TFS01104E906027BC 001009 ROD: EV_ECM12TFS01104E906027BC.rod VCID: 669446AD08E2930BC9E-8032 CAN Converter 01: No fault code found. Readiness: 0000 0000 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 03: ABS Brakes (J104) Labels:. 6R0-907-37x-ESP90.clb Part No SW: 6C0 907 379 K HW: 6R0 907 379 BA Component: ESP9.0i H03 0004 Serial number: 08514048160314 Coding: 41F5487D492A33C30918106A0058821292CC9008000DD7098F00 Shop #: WSC 13765 031 00063 ASAM Dataset: EV_Brake1ESP90iBOSCHPQ26 100020 ROD: EV_Brake1ESP90iBOSCHPQ26.rod VCID: 372ADBE91FC8DA83A28-8062 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 08: Auto HVAC (J301) Labels:| 6C0-820-045.clb Part No SW: 6V0 820 045 A HW: 6V0 820 045 A Component: AC Manuell H01 0202 Serial number: 1603091B-1445 Coding: 100000001000100000 Shop #: WSC 73430 031 00063 ASAM Dataset: EV_ACManueKMMValeoPQ26 002001 ROD: EV_ACManueKMMValeoPQ26_SK26.rod VCID: 3038E0F5FAA60DBBE32-8064 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 09: Cent. Elect. (J519) Labels:| 6C0-937-090-V1.clb Part No SW: 6C0 937 090 D HW: 6C0 937 090 Component: BCM PQ26 HiKR H10 0094 Serial number: 006318037927 Coding: 1C00095042158A7B43804000412F87080001D100D30A3500000000000000 Shop #: WSC 65048 003 104857 ASAM Dataset: EV_BCMA0 006002 ROD: EV_BCMA0_006_VW26.rod VCID: 290E0D91D97C7C7324C-807C Rain Light Recognition Sensor: Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 5Q0 955 559 A HW: 5Q0 955 559 A Labels: 5Q0-955-547.CLB Component: RLS 037 0059 Serial number: S2Y15M09D15H00M44S58 Coding: 00185E Drivers Door Control Module: Subsystem 2 - Part No SW: 6V1 959 801 B HW: 6V1 959 801 B Component: FHSG DRV 007 0001 Serial number: 00000000000009255270 Coding: 011200 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 10: Park/Steer Assist (J791) Labels:| 5Q0-919-294.clb Part No SW: 5Q0 919 294 E HW: 5Q0 919 294 A Component: PARKHILFE 7K H03 0048 Revision: -------- Serial number: 39331431407392 Coding: 0031151041 Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00021 ASAM Dataset: EV_EPHVA18AU3700000 002024 ROD: EV_EPHVA18AU3700000_VW26.rod VCID: 3D26C9C13DF4F0D3784-8068 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 15: Airbags (J234) Labels:| 6C0-959-655.clb Part No SW: 6C0 959 655 K HW: 6C0 959 655 K Component: VW20Airbag743 002 0380 Revision: -------- Serial number: 003TJ00313GV Coding: 88CCC000000000005C5400CF000800000000 Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00063 ASAM Dataset: EV_AirbaVW20BPAVW26X 001001 ROD: EV_AirbaVW20BPAVW26X.rod VCID: 3B22C7D923E0FEE3460-806E Side Sensor Driver Front: Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: ----------- HW: 410 822 503 16 Component: SideSensor_Df 151 0800 Serial number: 3575H000E2957E71B11N Coding: 2D2D2D Side Sensor Passenger Front: Subsystem 2 - Part No SW: ----------- HW: 410 822 503 16 Component: SideSensor_Pf 151 0800 Serial number: 3585H00162957E74138J Coding: 2D2D2D Side Sensor Driver Rear: Subsystem 3 - Part No SW: ----------- HW: 442 152 103 16 Component: SideSensor_Dr 1CA 0148 Serial number: 3517A00A31F93E220223 Coding: 2D2D2D Side Sensor Passenger Rear: Subsystem 4 - Part No SW: ----------- HW: 442 152 103 16 Component: SideSensor_Pr 1CA 0148 Serial number: 3527A00B31F93E33232A Coding: 2D2D2D No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 17: Instruments (J285) Labels:| 5G0-920-XXX-17.clb-SRI3 Part No SW: 6V0 920 740 A HW: 6V0 920 740 A Component: KOMBI 205 1420 Coding: 0BAD0900218000080108B6001C00000000000000 Shop #: WSC 65517 001 104857 ASAM Dataset: EV_DashBoardVDDMQBAB 009046 ROD: EV_DashBoardVDDMQBAB_SK25.rod VCID: 3332EFF90BB036A39E0-8066 2 Faults Found: 16777024 - Function Restricted due to Interrupted Communications U1110 00 [008] - - [BAP_BCME_0x23 keine Kommunikation] Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 6 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 42 Mileage: 98482 km Date: 2020.04.14 Time: 17:56:11 16777051 - Databus U1121 00 [009] - Missing Message [TCO_01 keine Kommunikation] Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 6 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 252 Mileage: 98405 km Date: 2020.04.12 Time: 14:24:28 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 19: CAN Gateway (J533) Labels:| 6C0-909-901-V1.clb Part No SW: 6C0 909 901 A HW: 6C0 937 090 Component: GW MQB A0 H10 0094 Revision: -------- Serial number: 006318037927 Coding: 030100042F0A640000000000000300010001000000000000000000000000 Shop #: WSC 73430 790 12345 ASAM Dataset: EV_GatewA0Lear 013020 ROD: EV_GatewA0Lear_013_SK25.rod VCID: 261406ADC862530B09E-8072 Multi Function Steering Wheel Control Module: Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 3V0 919 719 A HW: 3V0 919 719 A Component: E221__MFL-PR6 H02 0160 Serial number: 000000000D2251200218 Battery Monitoring Control Module: Subsystem 2 - Part No SW: 6C0 915 181 A HW: 6C0 915 181 A Component: J367-BDM H08 0223 Serial number: 53079716042821739041 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 20: High Beam Assist. (J844) Labels:| 8S0-857-511.clb Part No SW: 3G0 857 511 AG HW: 3G0 857 511 AG Component: FLA H08 0001 Revision: AA001001 Coding: 010100E500000000000000 Shop #: WSC 12345 123 12345 ASAM Dataset: EV_HighBeamAssisAU33X 001016 ROD: EV_HighBeamAssisAU33X_VW37.rod VCID: 6D8639812D14A053884-8038 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 44: Steering Assist (J792) Labels:| 6Rx-909-144-V2.clb Part No SW: 6C1 909 144 AG HW: 6C1 909 144 D Component: EPS_TRW_ALow 312 3232 Serial number: CG460016 Coding: 800700 Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00063 ASAM Dataset: EV_SteerAssisUDSTRW 016026 ROD: EV_SteerAssisUDSTRW.rod VCID: 6D8639812D14A053884-8038 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 5F: Information Electr. (J794) Labels:* None Part No SW: 6V0 035 871 J HW: 6V0 035 871 J Component: MU-E--US 690 8740 Serial number: 24081800021394 Coding: 03620200BE0000001111000401000A00AF0003D40000010004 Shop #: WSC 73430 790 12345 ASAM Dataset: EV_MUEnt4CGen2LGE 001041 ROD: EV_MUEnt4CGen2LGE_VW32.rod VCID: 3E24CECD30F2EBCB61E-806A 3 Faults Found: 1543 - Control Module Incorrectly Coded U1014 00 [009] - - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 4 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 252 Mileage: 98405 km Date: 2020.04.12 Time: 14:23:53 Voltage terminal 30: 11.9 V Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_0_condition: OK Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_1_condition: OK Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_10_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_11_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_12_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_13_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_14_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_15_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_16_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_17_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_18_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_19_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_2_condition: OK Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_20_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_21_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_22_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_23_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_24_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_25_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_26_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_27_condition: ERROR Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_3_condition: OK Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_4_condition: OK Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_5_condition: OK Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_6_condition: OK Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_7_condition: OK Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_8_condition: OK Byte_Coding_Condition-byte_9_condition: OK 1564 - Microphone 1 B129B 13 [008] - Open Circuit Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 4 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 44 Mileage: 98504 km Date: 2020.04.15 Time: 05:47:47 Voltage terminal 30: 11.7 V 7195 - Function Restricted due to Missing Message(s) U1111 00 [009] - - [Brake assist system (0x1B) - function restriction due to communication error - BapErr_retry not successful] Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 6 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 252 Mileage: 98405 km Date: 2020.04.12 Time: 14:23:56 Voltage terminal 30: 11.9 V BAP-BAP_Function_ID: 00 End----------(Elapsed Time: 00:44, VBatt start/end: 12.3V/12.3V)----------- thanks for reply and sorry for my english

Thought I'd share an easy and very cheap £6.50 chrome delete. So basically looked online. Quite pricey for just a black bit of trim. Thought I would take a chance on doing it my self. Stripped the grill off the car and cleaned the chrome piece with a degreaser. I then used Halfords black bumper paint £6.50. Apply lots of thin coats. 9-10 coats. Roughly 2/3rds of a can. I am massively pleased with the out come and have attached a few pics.

Try using this parts listing:- https://ifinterface.com Once you are on that site, click o the "welcome" area, followed by "free services" followed by "CarProg2" then select Skoda from the VW Group marques listed, then Fabia then date of manufacture then select body and eventually you will find the rear hatch and the part number you need. It is not rear hatch that you need to look for within the body which is section 8, but the "glasses and seats" section within section 8, ie 845-000, you can move to that area directly by navigating via the top line.

this is exactly what i meant with loud/louder but thinking about a catless downpipe. And the one in the video is even catted! And I'm not for all these crackles and dsg farts... But hey cool that there are other Skoda Superb petrolheads around the world! (And cool rear bbk in the video thumbnail)

Will do, still planning to get VCDS sometime when I’ve recovered the finances a bit. will be happy to provide scans of all the modules and coding when that happens.

Yep, I would like to keep it as stock looking as possible. I was going to go with the 200 cat downpipes not catless. Here is a video of the exhaust setup I'm thinking about - Here is the part I was looking at for the DSG cooling https://www.mlperformance.co.uk/collections/skoda-performance-parts/products/csf-audi-vag-mqb-quadruple-pass-dsg-cooler-left-right-side

Also going to do the following New Intercooler + pipes. DSG cooler JB4 Air intake system Turbo muffler delete

OK, well to the best of my knowledge there are two quite different approaches possible within erWin. Under the 'Vehicle specific information' tab, you can input your VIN, get the car data for your car (as a pdf download) and look up pretty much any info specifically about your particular car. But apart from the car data, most of that info is only available in viewable or printable form, page by page. Even with print to pdf, this can make large-scale data gathering time-consuming and thus expensive. You can also view TPIs in this area. On the other hand, under the 'Individual vehicle information' tab you can download everything you can see as pdfs. This includes the Self Study Programmes as well as everything available maintenance/repair/circuit diagram-wise but for models (e.g. mk1 Fabia) as opposed to info tailored/filtered for your specific vehicle. Obviously, given a good bandwidth connection this allows downloading and saving of a hell of a lot more info per hour of 'flat rate' paid. In fact I don't think I've ever timed out of the hour (7 Euros plus tax) before I've run out of ideas as to what I want to download next. I guess the best approach is probably to start in the latter area, download everything that looks useful or interesting, then pop into the vehicle-specific area to see what additional, more targeted info you can glean/save/print there.

That looks pretty good ! You will have other 272 owners literally convulsing with jealousy !

Don’t know as I only have access to the Carista app at the moment. I was planning to invest in the 10 vin VCDS license sometime but having just spent £20k on the car I can’t justify another £300 this month...! I'm surprised just how many of the things listed in the VCDS options thread on the superb 3 are actually achievable in Carista though, I’ve done quite a few of the ones I wanted to do already.

What information are you trying to get?

Here we go:

Erm, it most certainly does....

Thank you. They are funko bobble heads. Double sided sticky adhesive. As far as I am aware, yes. Fellow toy geek .

51k hahaha What are these people on?

Thanks Tim1631, Kinda my thoughts to be honest. Always something thats only released on one or the other thats well worth playing, although i do favour the Xbox, purely due to the controller being more comfortable to hold. Hopefully a second faze of PS5's will be released, and i can get one of those. I see a PS5 sold on the bay of evil yesterday for £51,100 after 17 bids. Not sure the winning bidder will pay up mind you.

Tell him in writing what he can do with any future business!

Yes, glad you got one, I've ordered a XBox too from Very. May aswell get both

Your car looks fantastic. Now to the important stuff; Are your figures Funko Pop minis? How did you attach them to the dash? Is it legal to have them there? This toy geek needs to know!

That's a very old joke now

They can be just terrible. What comes out the box can be scary. The wiring and connectors. They surely are not all a rip off, but i have yet to see ones that are not.

Humm, I find that too many times I post a reply without fully/deeply/repeat reading things, I try to improve!

Hi. Have a look on Amazon via this link E-bikes Be careful not all are electric or foldable bikes which is what I searched for with rating above 4 stars. If you don't need the folding design then this link might be better & offer more choice more bikes

I think on this age of Fabia/Polo/Ibiza, ie the cars with electro-hydraulic steering AND static cornering lights, there is the usual steering sensor in the rack for the steering assist support, and a second steering angle sensor under the steering wheel, used only, in these cars, for switching these static cornering lights or function. As you know this function is inhibited at higher road speeds - so yes this sounds a lot like a faulty "under steering wheel" steering angle sensor, a stupid SEAT dealership replaced that on my daughter's previous car - a late 2009 SEAT Ibiza, but when I complained that it was not cause of my reported fault and I wanted the assembly back to examine it, all I got was "when you remove them they fall/spring apart so there is nothing to check" - oh well, I tried, that sensor cost quite a lot back in 2017 and an hour's "calibrating" it to the car, I seem to remember that after that happened, there were a few of these sensors, NOS available on ebay, the "calibration sequence I'm sure can be done via VCDS, ie Basic Settings and directed moving of the steering wheel. Edit:- I asked my mate last night about his son's 2005 VW Polo that switched its maybe LHS front fog light on with the lights - he claimed to have sorted this out as he had spotted that one of the rear light clusters was full of water - so he emptied it and the front fog light stayed off - though I'm sure that old 2005 Polo does not have static cornering lights. He is trying to buy a rear light cluster seal kit cheaply, I have suggested that the problem is just the outer "cover" of that cluster is de-bonding from the body, is clean it up and run sealer round it.

You're not far off, just the TC is only on or off, no reduced function. All to remember on the skoda is ASR = TC and ESC = SC It's been a while but as I remember Default - TC & SC on 1 press - TC off, SC on Hold - TC off, SC 'Sport/Reduced' Long code 06 Default - no change 1 press (it seems to change to a very firm, slightly elongated press from a quick flick of the button though?) - TC off, SC reduced Hold - TC & SC off

I brought a pair of Ebay for £8.99 new (unbranded) ---- just checked my ebay history and it describes them as "2 bonnet boot gas struts bootlids tailgates parts hatchback ball studs 55cm" For the amount of time i lift the bonnet they were good enough for me and by not using the bonnet prop I could fill my screen washer up more easily

I will forward your recommendation for me to have a basically free Porsche until I die. I can't see anything going wrong with this idea

Couple of little updates, first of all had its MOT and another pass no advisories and some tlc for german invasion Pre registered for german invasion and was talking to bobby who has the darkside 1.6 tdi golf about going to it but as he lives in derby it is abit of a trek but then a few days before hand he told me he was going. People have been talking about me and bobby racing for nearly 3 years and even though we have met up a few times before its never been at the track. Race 1 bobby kept his road tyres on Race 2 bobby swapped over to his slicks Race 3 with data from vcds logs showing rpm boost and egt still struggling with wheel spin through 2nd so when racing a friend with a stage 1 dsg golf GTD i thought id try a little lift in 2nd so it stops spinning then back on the throttle again, think i lifted too much as it was my slowest time and trap speed of the day. When i viewed a couple of the pics from last time i thought the car was sitting too much on the 1st-2nd gear change and that was then lifting the front causing it to spin so thought id put the camera facing the back for the next run so i could see what it did. this one turned out to be my last and fastest run of the day, car ran 14.040 @108mph so exactly the same time as last time and i had a speed on one run of 110mph which are low 13 second speeds but wheel spin is killing it. Did notice the meth tank did have a small drip leak coming from the connector which ill need to sort out and find where its coming from exactly Really do love this car and still can't believe how far its came in 4 years as it will be 4 years next month since i've owned it

On to the install proper... It's due to rain through a fair bit of this week, so as it's not quite possible to fully open the doors both sides in my garage, I wanted to get the front speaker install and pulling out the various bits of trim done on the drive while the sun is out. First job, back seats out and free up the boot trims and cill covers. I'm not running the big wires today, but I wanted to do this with easy access all round, and to see if there were likely to be any problems running them. All seems fine. There's a handy earth point behind the boot trim on the c-pillar, and as that trim is free, I will cut it later to run the sub box straps through it. So, on to the front doors. The speakers I have are Focal Access 165AS 2-way comps with passive cross overs - the bottom end of properly nice, in my book; I've had them in 2 cars previously and so I know I like the sound I used just over a dozen sheets of Dodomat altogether (I've got some left over that may appear around the boot). I found the Dodomat was very easy to use - cut well, the backing pealed easily and it took shapes well. Slightly surprised to find that Skoda had rivetted on the woofers, so had to drill those out before going any further. I didn't cover every square inch - there's no need, despite the temptation -and actually, the Rapid's doors have far fewer holes in than many I've done in the past. First off several chunks on the outer skin behind the speaker and also through the big plastic access hatch. Then one around the mounting hole so the adaptor gets a good seal, and the immediate area is damped: The adaptors I bought were marked as "Octavia rear subs" (I'd just chucked them on the pile when they arrived, without really looking) so I did panic for a moment, but they turned out to fit perfectly. I used those (don't know the proper name) bent spring clips that grab screws inside the door to hold the adaptors down. You can see the mat bulge slightly as they press in to make the seal. Then mat across the rest of the door - those big plastic access hatches look like prime rattlers to me, so plenty across them: I also added mat to the inside of the door skin - there's more than you can see here, tucked under the insulation. I added some acoustic foam behind the mids to help absorb the back wave: Then on to the tweeters. Again, the OE ones are sort of rivetted on - mounted on plastic pins, which are then melted down, so out with the drill again. The Focal tweeters slotted in just nicely, with the pins removed and even the slight bulge they made removed from the inside of the raised mounting section. A dab of superglue, then some more dabs of hot melt around the outside for luck. Careful examination of the door card showed there was room to surface mount the crossovers towards the lock side, on a line between the middle mounting popper and the lower door handle screw. BTW, as I won't be pushing silly power, I'm perfectly happy using the OE wiring (which turns out to be a reasonable gauge anyway) for that 'orrible job of getting the signal from the car body into the door. If I ever go active, guess I'll have to run more wires then (or move the tweeters somewhere off the door!). So, nearly there... the only other thing I wanted to do was because I had noticed from the OE mountings (when I was seeing what was what with a torch) that there's a lot of space in front of and around the mids in the door card. As I had more acoustic foam available, I thought I'd try copying the Fast Rings idea of channelling sound to the cabin: Then put it all back together... I didn't take a pic of that, it looks 100% standard! I have had a quick play with these just from the HU... they rock! The mid-bass is particularly strong, just as it should be. It does point up though how much the system now needs a sub. I'm really looking forward to getting these amped up I'd almost go as far as saying that I'd have been quite happy if I'd have just done this as an upgrade and left the rest standard, but it would take some fiddling with tone and the HU's standard processing effects to disguise the lack of sub... and then I suspect you'd lose a lot of the benefit. More soon

Yup, that was all me and the in-law. No templates, kits or anything. He decides the layout and how he wants it to look, I’m just the “young’un” helping him realise his vision

Well she’s almost here... just awaiting PDI 😊

Anyone had their kph/mph fixed yet? Could be a safety issue if I have to take it overseas as there's no kph on the standard dash.

yea it is kickin alot 😂

Great start to a project! Looking forward to see how it progresses. Maybe look at getting a nice exhaust to make the back end look more aggressive?

Owning a camper van only makes some sort of financial sense if you use it at least once a month for weekends away, maybe alone or at a club (e.g. Caravan Club) meet, as well as for main holidays, half-terms, etc.

It appears the latest models are being filled with 0W 20 VW 508 spec oil from the factory.

I have this vision in my head of what I’d do with that tyre. Right, that’s me off out to my self help anger management group.

Most of you probably don't me. I used to knock around here for a long time back then. I was once known as Fatty5000 Ken o'Neil probably remembers :-) I've got a file hanging round that covers the Mk1 Octy RS stuff, ETKA stuff, tuning common probs, It's taking up space in my online folder. Would anyone like to take charge of it for the greater good ... the greater good It's probably out of date now to a point, you know 17705 code is history and pop-corn mods or something are all rage ... maybe .... I don't know and that ... whatever! (way past this point myself... Drive a BMW these days) but it may come in useful! Let me if it's any use or it's just some old skool **** that the mapper told you not to worry about.

That's Skoda for you. I had a brand new Karoq Sportline last year. Ski hatch broke this year (having NEVER used before), was told that a part was 'missing' which they can't claim for on warranty so had to pay to have it fixed. I was billed £5 for the part and no labour - I kid you not! This was at the supplying dealer. VW or BMW would have done this for free - that's the difference.

Not the best pics, just a couple of quick snaps. When I get her property polished and coated I’ll get out the good camera & find a nice location. Yehh road tax is €570 and I’ll let you know the VRT when it eventually gets sorted. But that could take a couple of weeks. I’m booked in for early October but will probably get seen a bit sooner than that. And insurance was basically no change to premium over the Diesel VRs I’m coming from. Just completed a nice leisurely 50km drive, sun shining & sunroof open and she near got 40mpg on the display. Granted it was very leisurely driving but still pretty impressive. But it’s not something I’ll be particularly caring about as I don’t do very high mileage in a year, but I was pleasantly surprised.

Update on this one, I had a new ski hatch fitted today as the mechanism was broken. Having told me that this wasn't covered as part of the warranty then after a little bit of to-ing and fro-ing with customer services and it was agreed that Skoda and my local dealership would share the cost and I wouldn't pay for a replacement so the result was good but I don't understand why it wasn't initially covered by the warranty to be honest. It's not like I use it often, I remember opening it when I got the car (Mar-18) and not sure I'd tried to use it again since until I picked up a couple of garden canes in June and tried it and it wouldn't open.

Maybe to be more relevant to road cars. Almost zero suspension on the mini like an F1 car, deafening as had to keep the revs very high but only 32 hp if I remember my numbers. Good for 80 mph straight or corners. Huge fun. Crap brakes though.