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Well, what a considerate driver you are - as long as you are okay then sod the rest of motorists. Perhaps that’s why Caravanners are so universally disliked. Oh, and the other driver reversed into my car while it was parked.

My 11 plate still going strong 🤞

I think there are plenty of darker places the whole VAG key/kessy, security model is well discussed and understood. Afterall the key on a kodiaq is likely the same circut board as your RS whatever.

It is the one thing I like missing from my old Octavia................ too much unnecessary 'technology'. If I get stuck in traffic I can turn my ignition off, and I like to stay awake and paying attention, reading the road whilst driving. I find it helps..........

I used similar to this its self adhesive so you just stick it alongside the original seal its quite soft so fills any gaps easily. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4M-Car-Door-D-Shape-Seal-Strip-Edge-Protectors-Weatherstrip-Rubber-Sealing-Trims/303661090288?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 I haven`t cleaned inside the door for several weeks and have been on some mucky wet roads but you can see the dirt on the first seal but not much has got past the new piece of seal

Hi all, I had my windscreen replaced some months ago by my local dealer. Everything went well, except... I didn't noticed they had broken (and glued to hide their mistake 🤬) the retainer for park tickets! Since, I was not able to prove this several months later, I've bought a new one to replace it on my own. A good opportunity to make a tutorial. P/N : 3V0 867 333 - 0.72€ First of all, wash your hands before starting to avoid dirty finger prints on the trim panel, especially if you have light grey or 'ivory' interior, To remove the A-pillar trim panel, use a large and flat lever (a wooden spatula should be ok too ). Insert it on the upper part between the door seal and the trim panel, so that you can push approximately the center part of the panel on the rear side to unclip it: Then repeat this at middle height of the trim panel to keep on uncliping the trim panel. In red circles below, the 2 clips once the trim panel is uncliped. Now, you just need to pull the trim panel upward to remove it completely. Once this is done, if you have a sun roof, start uncliping the water drain hose of the sunroof (red circle), to get a better access to the spreader rivet which fixes the park tickets retainer (both in blue rectangle): Then you just need to pull the spreader rivet head (if necessary, use a small fork ;)): Now put the brand new park tickets retainer in place and press the spreader rivet head to fix the retainer. You can now start reinstalling the A-pillar trim panel. Be sure to engage correctly the lower outer corner in the door seal and the lower inner edge in the dashboard: Then get out of the car and stand along the A-pillar and adjust the trim panel height, looking thru the windscreen: Check the lower clip is in front of the slot in the A-pillar. Do the same for the upper clip Then just press firmly the trim panel, starting with the lower clip. If necessary, don't hesitate: A firm hit with your closed fist 😁! Press the trim panel at the upper side to completely clip it. You may then have to make some slight adjustments to get a nice positionning (no bump, no dent under your fingers, when sliding your hand along the trim panel). Done! 😎

If you've got a spare wheel in the boot, check it's properly bolted in. Had a car where it loosened over time and rattled like mad.

I've had the car for just over a month now so I suppose an update on progress is due. With it's first track day now just a week away, the key focus has been getting it all together mechanically and making sure everything is safe and working. One of the first missions was to get my set of four point harnesses in which wasn't too hard, I just needed to get a couple of longer eye bolts for the rear as two of the mounting points turned out to be slightly recessed. An unexpected change however was swapping the bucket seats it came with for my Cobra buckets from my old MG. Main reason for the change was the woman prefers the Cobras and if it means she'll have a go at driving it on track, then fine. To be fair, the Cobras are the better seats so she was right. Don't tell her that though. It was a quick job though as the mounting points of the two seats were different and upon closer inspection, I wasn't overly happy with how the existing seats had been mounted so it turned int a full day of re-fabricating and welding good solid mounting points. As it won't just be me driving the car, I needed to keep the seats mounted on sliders so they can still be adjusted. A lot of work but worth it as I'm now happy that the seats are properly mounted and won't cause me any issues. With new cars comes many shopping opportunities so I've been on a bit of a buying spree recently. Lots of service items, and a few upgrades such as Badger 5 oversize TIP, big front mounted intercooler, stainless exhaust system, baffled sump, bits of pipe for a catch can, stage 2 ECU, Haldex service kit and one of those Haldex inserts that Softscoop suggested, phenolic gasket for the inlet manifold, billet injector cups, RamAir induction kit and probably more little bits that I can't remember now. It's been a steady process of most evenings and weekends being spent on working through everything to get it all serviced and get the upgraded parts on. One of the first things I did was bling up the engine up the engine bay a bit by painting my cam cover, inlet manifold and charge pipe. Those who know me on facebook will be aware that I have a habit of painting such items to make a few pennies so it was only right I did a set for myself. Surface prep is key so a go in the dishwasher for a final degreasing is a must. All came out looking pretty nice though as the VHT matt red paint I use is very user friendly. I put the inlet back on along with a phenolic gasket to help reduce the amount of heat transferred from the head and I also fitted a new set of billet injector cups. A crucial job was the cam belt and water pump I've done a cam belt on a 1.8t before so this time didn't take too long. Hardest part is getting the engine mounting bracket out from the space that doesn't really exist It's also had all fluids changed, new oil pick up pipe and I've fitted a baffled sump as I've got experience of taking a 1.8T on track without one and it didn't end well. Forge want £260 for a ready made item, which whilst it is a good quality item, I managed to find just as good an option at a much more reasonable £50. CB Auto do a baffle kit and as my brother works for an engineering company, he was able to tig weld it into a sump pan for me. Well worth the piece of mind that the engine isn't going to be starved of oil during those long sweeping bends on race circuits. The car came with a 3 inch decat downpipe already installed but it still had the standard cat back system which has quite a restrictive looking flattened part where it goes under the rear axle. I kept my eye out for a stainless system at a decent price and luckily found one on Ebay for £100 and as a bonus it was located about 15 minutes from where I was working at the time. Most exhausts available were all centre or back box deletes which didn't really interest me as I didn't want anything loud that would potentially cause me issues with noise tests at circuits. The one I found is ideal as it really isn't a lot louder than standard but is much more free flowing. It was also a direct fit so bolted straight on with no hassle. The front mounted intercooler was also another Ebay find and a really easy fit as, along with the pipework, it's designed specifically for the car so mounted straight on and the bumper fits back over without needing to hack anything off it. With the bumper back on, I figured a little more airflow couldn't hurt so I got the hole saw out and made some holes across the front where the number plate used to live. Next important job, which I didn't get any pictures of, was serviceing the rear Haldex system. A fiddly job as access is tight and the special spanner I purchased to change the filter was an absolute must. The oil is easy enough to change, just a case of suirting it in through the hole and put the plug back in quickly. I fitted the insert I mentioned earlier and now it's in, it's staying in as it's tricky to get to. It's very very small so I really hope it was worth the £76 it cost One of the jobs that needed doing, so that it can get an MOT in a couple of weeks time, was to replace the front cv boots as they were both split. What should have been an easy job, I've done plenty in the past on various vehicle, ultimately turned into a massive pain in the winkle as the cv joints just would not come off for love nor money. Had to resort to the angle grinder. It didn't really help though as the new cv joints I had then wouldn't fit the shafts. Upon closer inspection, the shafts were infact some non genuine replacements. Disappointing but easily resolved by sourcing a pair of genuine, good condition used shafts. Getting close to being ready to use now so today I just did a quick little task of relocating the front number plate. Obviously I can't use a normal one now as it'll block off the holes I made for the intercooler, so I've gone for a square plate tucked off to the left hand side. I don't want any issues with the law so I've had one made with the legal font and size. Tomorrow's job is fit my uprated fuel pump and I've got a boost gauge to mount somewhere aswell. Then, it'll be a case of put it on the trailer next weekend and hope it all holds together when I drive it for the first time at Donnington Park. As long as it doesn't blow up, I can then get it MOT'd whilst I have a week off work and then maybe start looking at tidying up the cosmetic issues.

Snap! I was also making blipping the throttle downshift noises when I remodelled the back of the 105e van

I am blind in the left eye (am hoping for a miracle next Tuesday though) and frequently bash my hip whilst squeezing amongst stuff in my workshops but never outside, I always try to leave a decent space on my blind side, when I cant I will be looking down with my head turned sideways. If an adult cracks his shin while walking behind a car then he is very close to it and should know better than to walk out into traffic on a busy road from behind a parked car, children are a different matter, they will be chasing each other around and scraping past everything breaking things along the way, sometimes breaking themselves, its all part of growing up. Be truthfull how many of us like myself headbutted the rear of parked cars (or a van in my case) whilst cycling & not looking where we were going? And we didn't even have smartphones to be staring at. If any adult walks into my tow coupling its likely that they will have been staring into a phone.

@Brockysuperb, Glad I am not the only one, notice that the system is doing a SW update so it may fix it. As I am on Octopus Agile and tonight is a price plunge where they pay me to use power the car is set to charge tonight so will see if it works this time. Lucky I emptied the battery today :-) John

Yes I think that's the first thing I will do change the spark plugs just to make sure. Well better for the car more regular oil and filter changes you do. I know police cars are serviced twice a year. I will be doing about 8k a year.

We've always had fixed towbars as they are cheaper, and to give us some protection from other motorists driving into the back of us.

Yeah from a trader. His getting it mot so I will have 12 months and putting a new tyre on. And service.

I am very much a beginner with OBD 11 but I have managed to make a few changes to my 2016 VRS using the coding in the VCDS sticky. OBD 11 has a search function in the adaptations and, even though the different elements are not in the same location as on VCDS, I just searched for the words in the sticky thread and changed them once I found them. I have not had any problems with OBD 11 except, as others have suggested, when I tried to use the built in apps. For example, using the app for enabling cornering fog lights only did half the job (inner bulbs only, not outer ones) but using the adaptations listed in the sticky thread worked like a charm.

You live in France.....case closed m'lud....

What have I said that would lead you to conclude that I am anything but a very considerate driver Xman? I have never reversed into a parked car except one that had boxed me in (which happens all the time where I live) and the guy was drunk and belligerant (he had driven to a bar) and refused to move forward even 6", laughed at me (playing to an audience) and said (in French) what are you going to do about it! So I showed him. Were you to live here you would realise what a massive problem tailgating is, and I mean almost rubbing paint tailgating, slowing down just exasperates, a dab of the brake lights makes them even more determined, a full on emergency stop does the trick, since fitting the larger more visible Nato coupling it happens a lot less. I have had severe rear end shunts 3 times over the years, never through brake testing but the inattention of the other driver, 3 cars written off insurance wise, 6 if you include theirs, all of mine have been easy repairs because thanks to the towbars fitted the damage has been relatively cosmetic, the impact dissipated evenly between the 2 chassis rails, the bumpers usually pushing out & needing minimum paintwork. I dont hate caravanners or any group. My choice of tow coupling is for my needs and not to minimise the self inflicted damage done to the vehicles of inattentive, aggressive or selfish drivers. I do know a couple of young children (adults now) who have broken their legs whilst running around playing too close to a parked vehicle with a towball, in that respect the swan neck removable are much more dangerous while they are fitted because they stick out much further, and many people do seem to leave them fitted, the flange on my towbar is so tight to the bumper that have had to drill clearance holes for the few threads that project from the bolts and have to use wedges in order to even get the nuts in position, with a standard towball fitted its flush to the bumper, the one in the photo by its nature sticks out more but less than most swan neck balls.

Sorry DA62FHD

what are you talking about? i have no errors and my bulbs are completely different can't even imagine how wrong is light beam from your fogs, worst choice i have seen

Hi Dyrnog Yes, I do find it improves things very much! Not only that, but it prevents so much spray being thrown up when on fast roads. So I think it’s safer too.........Tony

Contact Skoda and ask. I'm aware of a similar situation on a Volvo, where Volvo needed evidence of identity - and then opened the hatchback remotely.

Giving towball poisoning to inconsiderate parkers or brake testing tailgaters is precisely the reason that I remain with a fixed towbar as well as that they are cheaper and that I need the bolted flange to fit a Nato hitch for some of my trailers. Not sure about lethal damage unless you run someone over in reverse. This projects further than a standard towball, is more of a visual deterrent and protects the rear more if shunted from behind.

The Sportline Plus just has an electric driver's seat with 3 position memory but a manual passenger seat.

I'm not sure info such as the OP has requested should be posted openly.

Nothing exciting but New coolant bottle

moved to the kodiaq forum. I didn't think modern cars; maybe only kessy, it was possible to lock with keys inside?

Driving a Ferrari means the rules don't apply to you

It is possible to drift the old bearing out of the hub, clean the seat up. Then heat it in the oven for a couple of hours, leave the bearing in the freezer overnight. Lightly oil the bearing and it pushes in by hand. Seat with a light tap with wood. Holding ring then has to be pushed in with a screwdriver. Downside is you have to remove the ABS sensor, which usually means a new one. I did our last one with this procedure, still going strong after 50,000 miles until I took the car off the road.

There’s not that much info out there for looking after batteries which is surprising considering every car for the last 90 years or so has one. I guess it’s not that interesting as a subject. BU pages are probably the best available for free. For AGM, the charging should be voltage limited to 14.8v max, current can fluctuate within this limit. Flooded batteries are charge current limited. All batteries need protection from overcharging so they don’t dry out. AGM naturally hold less electrolyte over wet flooded batteries and need more protection from this but certain duty cycles will force a loss of moisture from the assembly regardless of tech. Pressure valves in the lids aim to stop this water loss (Valve Regulated Lead Acid - VRLA) and in-vehicle charging strategies hold the battery in a confined charging window to protect it from overcharge and try to recover it from undercharging depending on available engine run time. Excess heat is also a silent battery killer from overcharging and environment and is bad for all lead acid batteries. Too much heat and the lead plates decay and turn to mush, it takes a while for this to have a noticeable effect but once started, it’s not reversible. Equatorial markets go through batteries quicker than temperate climate markets. It’s also the reason for the module on the neg post has temperature sensor so that charging is restricted relative to battery temp. General mis-information leads folks to think cold weather kills batteries. It doesn’t! It shows up weak batteries damaged from summer heat/discharge/overcharge. The insulation bag the battery is covered in is to reduce the speed of heat soak from the engine bay when stationary or slow moving with no airflow underbonnet. Regulations only allow AGM to be fitted inside a vehicle cabin for occupant protection from spraying acid in a crash situation. It usually ends up in the load space somewhere accessible but then needs to be bigger to overcome the losses in heavy high performance cabling stretching the length of the chassis adding more weight. Then you get those folks pulling the fly lead off the battery module to inhibit S/S and throw all these carefully engineered compensation factors out the window! 🤦‍♂️ Dried out batteries go pop!

Sorry, wino, but that may not have been an adequate answer; my comment about their info is based on looking at their site ~5 years ago, and I can't remember what exactly I looked at, at the time- probably something to do with Calcium and non-Calcium, but I'm not sure (and I'm not really prepared to dig around their site generally for other problems, unless it directly affects something I am considering here and now). It is a shame, as I think they know their stuff, just have been a bit careless in the writing. In any case, I think there has been some thread drift and that we are probably no longer doing anything to help the OP. If you want to continue the discussion about technical battery matters, a new thread may be indicated?

Ha ha. Actually we do get almost monsoonal rains here during summer. The concrete motorway between Brisbane and Gold Coast just becomes a haze. You cant see the lines or bugger all. But hey I know about rain. I ,m a kiwi from the rain capital of the world -Auckland New Zealand.

How much slack is on the belt? If a tensioner had failed the belt would be easy to lift off from the pulleys.

Useful links however I prefer as OEM as possible so the knob from the Kodiaq with the same letter logo and identical text as the Superb suits me fine. I browsed a used parts website one hour ago and there were 3 such knobs from Kodiaqs in very good condition (essentially like new, at least from the pictures), cost: 100EUR so I ordered one and will be looking into fitting it in the coming weeks I will update with the results

I did not do such a thing ... also I have the kessy system.

It's really not a bonny car. Grill too big, wheels too small. Might be a bad angle I suppose. It's probably lovely if you look at it from behind a brick wall.

I've had my budget set for many years and it still works fine. Just go steady and keep threads lubed.

I'm sure I didn't pay as much as this, but it was a handful of years ago. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Slpro-Wheel-Bearing-Assembly-Puller/dp/B01LWSTTVP/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=72mm+wheel+bearing+tool&qid=1603440394&sr=8-3 Get a quote from a garage, but not one that will just use a press to fit the new bearing, without the appropriate Gen2 bits to push in the right place, cos you/they will end up doing it again after they knacker the new bearing. I think the only bit likely to suffer from cheap metal in the Chinese kits is the main 'pull' bolt, but if you grease it thoroughly, and maybe heat the bearing carrier with a sustained blast of hot air before attempting removal you'll be OK. They do take a bit of starting during removal, so probably expect to be using a long breaker bar on that 'pull' bolt if you do DIY. Maybe not so bad with added heat, which I didn't use on my one and only experience.

Finally picked up the Yeti from the dealer today. Wasn't supposed to be getting it until next Friday when the wifes redundancy money gets paid, but with potential lockdown restrictions coming in where I live I wanted to get it sooner rather than later. Thankfully my mother stepped in and lent me the cash to pay for it. I ended up putting some of the purchase price on Skoda/VW finance to get the warranty extended by a year and two services for £79. I will be withdrawing from the finance in a day or two and settling the account. Had a nice drive home in it, now got to read the handbook to learn whats what and get Apple CarPlay working. First expense will be Haldex clean, Skoda have done the 3 yr Haldex service but probably won't have cleaned the sieve. Then I'll be getting a towbar fitted for the caravan, and a Hatchbag boot liner for the dog. 2017 Yeti 2.0L 4x4 150 DSG SE L OUTDOOR DRIVE - PEARL GREY

If you don't mind going to view it go into settings on the info screen and scroll down to service and it will tell you when the oil or inspection service is due. It should have been serviced latest March 2020 on a variable plan but with many garages closed due to the Pandemic it may not have been possible. Unless someone has reset the servicing this is at least a guide to whether it has been done or has been neglected. Also look at the Long Term fuel consumption under vehicle data which should give a low average speed and relatively poor fuel consumption figure (under 40mpg for the 1.0 litre engine) which will reflect the low indicated mileage.

Ask Skoda for the service history they hold on their system.

Nice trip upto Scotland last week! 1200miles and never skipped a beat! Managed to get nearly 500 miles to a tank which i'm well happy with! Normally only managed 380-400 to a tank! Had 20mm spacers fitted 2 days before we left for Scotland as well and love how it sits now! Didn't like how they made it look at first but i've got use to it now

You sure the SH isn’t online? Cars don’t have books and dealer stamps these days. All I’ve got is a bunch of invoices. But as SC03OTT says, the 1.0 SE Tech estate isn’t exactly rare. Plenty of choice out there.

Presuming that the 1.4 TDI is the same as the1.6 and 2.0 TDI , if it's on variable service then oil change is @ 20K miles or 2 years ..

Find one with service history. They’re not rare, won’t be that hard to find one.

Skoda Octavia 1,9 TDI Year 2002 - Won’t start. No glow plug light and starter wont crank – Relay 109 Just want to input my experience into this forum in order to assist other, with similar problems. Apologize for my English, but it wouldn’t make sense to make it in Danish 😊. Had similar, but not exact same symptoms as described by several other treads. Occasionally my wife’s Octavia wouldn’t start and a few times engine just stopped when driving. Normally after some attempts the car started again and drove for some more weeks, so really annoying to troubleshoot. Finally, yesterday the Engine again stopped during driving and car couldn’t start. When turning ignition key “No glow plug light” and “starter wont crank”. Have had another issue with a damaged relay 109 earlier (No glow plug light), where the car couldn’t start, but is that situation the starter cranked fine. Was at that time solved with a new relay 109. Anyway, started by taking out relay 109 and tested it with 12 VDC on coil and multimeter on relay contact, worked perfect. Mounted relay 109 again and tried starting, but still same symptoms. Went back to Google and started by searching around in forums, but couldn’t find exact similar symptoms. Most similar problems found were caused by broken wiring from relay 109 or bad connections to ECU (Engine Control Unit). Back to the car and started with checking the wiring behind the socket (purple color in my car) where relay 109 is inserted and noticed, when pulling the bunch of wires on the back, that the relay 109 sockets seems to be a bit loose in the “mount”. Supported the socket from behind and inserted relay 109 completely. Turned ignition key and glow plug light came on, and Starter cranked in fine and car started. So, problem solved :-) In order to access Relay 109 you need to remove the lower facia (drivers side below ODB plug) by removing the two plate torch screws. In order to access relay 109 I removed the Wiper relay, see picture below Big thanks to all who contribute here, it really appreciated and finally an appeal to end/close the tread once the problem is resolved. Think to many cases end up in a “dead end”

UK prices after Government grant and range. Life 58kWh battery 263 miles £29,990. Business 58kWh battery 262 miles £33,720. Style 58kWh battery 261 miles £34,180. Family 58kWh battery 260 miles £34,650. Tech 58kWh battery 260 miles £36,190. Max 58kWh battery 258 miles £38,220. Tour 77kWh battery 336 miles £39,290.

broken and shorted wires in the drivers door gaiter , or bcm issue but my money is on the first

Got to agree autohold is a great feature, mine has been turned on since day one. Once you master feathering the brake pedal you soon creep along without the autohold coming on.

A fair maintenance wash this weekend and shines up pretty well considering it’s 18 years.