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All of us are here on our own time, offering what we can from personal or professional experience. A lot of us lead busy lives and have to ration our time accordingly: once our car works again we move on with our lives. That's just reality. Even just finding the post after a week or two is a pain as it'll have disappeared way down the pages in that time. Sure it would be good to come back and post again if we can, but no-one has a right to expect it on a forum like this. Diagnosing problems in a complex engineered system is challenging even if you have hands on access and know what you're doing. As others have noted, the actual source of the problem can be far removed from where the symptoms pop up. Diagnosing over the internet based on limited information provided by a non-expert (as most owners are, no shame in it) is more challenging still. Then you have to deal with all sorts of cognitive biases that humans are blessed with in trying to unravel what might be going on. If you get a solid lead on your problem after posting it here, you're doing pretty well. I get the OP's frustration, but coming in with a thread title like that and demanding more from people who are probably already doing their best to help you out isn't cool. You catch more flies with honey

hi all, you possibly had problems sending emails to gmail users yesterday and overnight. We certainly did I get a two emails for every failure as well. Here is a copy of a update from another mail provider. I personally switched to and use for BRISKODA internal mail. We send email via Amazon SES. start Starting at around 4:30PM New York (10:30PM Zurich), Gmail suffered a global outage. A catastrophic failure at Gmail is causing emails sent to Gmail to permanently fail and bounce back. The error message from Gmail is the following: 550-5.1.1 The email account that you tried to reach does not exist. This is a global issue, and it impacts all email providers trying to send email to Gmail, not just ProtonMail. Because Gmail is sending a permanent failure, our mail servers will not automatically retry sending these messages (this is standard practice at all email services for handling permanent failures). We are closely monitoring the situation. At this time, little can be done until Google fixes the problem. We recommend attempting to resend the messages to Gmail users when Google has fixed the problem. You can find the latest status from Google's status page: https://www.google.com/appsstatus#hl=en&v=issue&sid=1&iid=a8b67908fadee664c68c240ff9f529ab Best Regards, The ProtonMail Team P.S. You might also consider asking your contacts who are still using Gmail to switch to ProtonMail for more private communications —end i left the ps in as it is a good service and a handy one to have for private, encrypted emails eg sending bank details. while we’re here make sure your email password is very secure and not used on other sites

Aston Villa and England Footballer who has a problem remembering not to visit his mates during lockdown. Also can't seem to exit a car park without hitting stationary vehicles and Police followed him at 98mph on the Motorway bullying other motorists in a Range Rover. Got a driving ban and £80,000 fine.

Hello mates. My name is Cristian, from Santiago of Chile. Was seeking for a mk3 to make it faster.... ended up with this toy. 2014 CTHE 40.000 KM Because of covid, the prices went up and I already have a Karoq for the daily driving routine, but needed a track/daily so, posted a history in my instagram page and here we are. Mods alreeady done. GFB DV+ Whiteline bushes (ended upp killing one in the first trackday) whiteline swaybar links Toyo r888r for the track in 205/40r17 Meyle hd TT RS ball joints 2.5 BRM inox mid pipe exhaust, original backbox OZ formula HLT 17X7.5 Goodyear eagle f1 asy 5 daily tires RCD360 Headunit Mods not yet installed/arrived POLO GTI 9n side skirts (need repair) bilstein B16 coilovers Powerflex black series rear control arm bushing whiteline rear anti roll bar creation motorsport catch can audi TT rear brake mod Porsche boxster 986 front calipers FUTURE MODS Skoda alcantara steering wheel WIECHERS strut maybe TCU REMAP PROBABLY ENGINE TOO TVS OR RTMG THE PLAN Make it AS RELIABLE AS POSSIBLE I always had some fear to own a fabia vrs with all the bad fame earned in the years but, here I am, enjoyin every time I jump of the Karoq to this. Hope you like it. Cheers!

Here's mine

Usually 100mm or so above the bottom coolant hose connection to the radiator. Access may be easier from below, not sure what's in the way of access from above on your engine/car.

Finally got round to having the detachable tow bar and the ebaich 30mm springs fitted. I have to say car looks far better and more sport / factory look which is what I was hoping for as I never wanted something looking lowered into the rim etc. Before After along with a quick wash using anachem Articulate, snow foam, gleam and hybrid qd. It comes up great everytime since I machined it.

Please dim them. There are boy racered BMWs with number plate lights so bright the plates are obscured.

Must've been a big car park.

I like the way Petrol Blue looks green in bright sunlight and almost black as the light goes. The paint finish seems good too. Mine’s now got a few lays of polish/wax/sealant on it for the winter. And yes my drive needs cleaning! Job for the Spring.

Hi would anyone know what seats from the vag group would be a straight replacement for the mk3 superb seats, electric because I am finding these seats very uncomfortable thanks

its clha engine and yes its a water cooled "charge cooler". got it back today and forgot how nippy it is, it failed its mot on drop links, cv boot both easy fixes but does anyone know exactly where the crash sensor is on front of car as my airbag light is on and failed on it. so happy its back to normal performance. thank you to everyone's input on this problem

A positive update! I managed to roughly locate the air leak somewhere around the crankcase breather, so ordered a new part from Skoda. Part that came off was 06K 103 495 P, and the updated part number is BM at the end instead. £70. Very easy to replace, though needed a new crimped hose clamp thingy, not sure what they're called. Started it up, no leaking air noise, reset the fault codes, took it for a drive, all back to normal. @steved83 mine is a DSG too, but didn't have any fuel economy issues. 40mpg on the way to work (slightly down hill overall). When I lifted off the throttle it would still apply about 25% throttle for a few seconds before dropping back, another symptom for you! Sounds like you've got something else wrong with yours. I would highly recommend getting yourself an OBDeleven, this is the second time I've been able to avoid dealer prices for diagnosis and repair, and as the car is 7 years old now, they're only gonna get more frequent!

Are you suggesting that in this day and age that we (the hard-working consumer) shouldn't use the likes of Carwow, and come forearmed with facts and figures?? One would hope that dealers actually expect it...

@e-Roottoot is vw504 ok for 200KW variable servicing, or should it be 508? Otherwise it will be fixed at 12 months.

Better still thanks , that would be best to save me from continually searching for my keys. Thank you Briskoda members

Just go into settings and switch off remote opening the windows. Simples.

Thank you CJJE, I was more concerned with mopping up the rain water from inside, I don’t think the sun roof was open...and I think it could have been front and rear, and it was unlocked. I remember on previous Passats and Golfs, that holding the open button down on the remote would open the windows, and could close them via the lock button. But this didn’t happen incidentally with them. I will keep keys out of my pockets. Cheers

New connectors and 3 min coding.

Not sure I 100% believe their reply to that: I can feel I'll be getting in touch with Skoda Support CZ again...

Park Aid has additional sensors to allow it to work and a RVC isn't a requisite. Reverse parking needs reference cars though.

LOOKING FORWARD TO MORE UPDATE IS IT DONE YET ?????????????

Turninglight and reverselight is not LED from standard, but i put in LED in reverse and will do the turninglights to. I paid 260 for them, they sat on a smashed car that had only run less than 10000km so they looked brand new.

Indeed, I'll be checking all possibilities before I bite the bullet and shoot for the BCM. I just have a gut feeling that the output from the BCM is faulty. Looking around on a few site's I've seen people having to replace output driver IC's in the BCM which I'm comfortable to do as I'm an electronics engineer. Even if the BCM is faulty I still have a gut feeling that there's an intermittent short somewhere else, as I'm positive the outputs of the BCM won't just randomly fail. I'll report back once I find out more, that could be a while as this is the Mrs's car, and the headlight washers also soak the windscreen so the impact to her is negligable and she's never eager to give me the car for diagnosis! Thank you again for your assistance.

It was CrossClimate plus. Before them I had Continentals premium contact 2 (if I recall correctly) from factory and then Pirelli Cinturato P1 Verde. Contis were like suction cups for the first 20.000 Kms then they started to loose performance very rapidly and they started to get a soapy surface and changed them at 40.000Kms. Then Pirellis were excellent summer tyres but in case of snow it was a nightmare. Excellent grip and breaking performance especially on wet roads. They were on the car for about 90.000Kms and I changed them because they had a lot of tread remaining but they got so stiff at the second half of year four, they were like train wheels on tarmac. Amazing time for playing with car on empty parking lots the last days of their life. If my parents and my wife's parents were at the same city we live I would kept fitting summer tyres, but having to travel over 200Kms in winter time in different directions in northern Greece, all weathers are the best solution in my case.

AmazonBasics Double Braided Nylon USB Type-C to Micro-B: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics Unfortunately though, its only free delivery if you spend £20+ (unless you pay for Amazon Prime).

@stratosg Very strange, but then maybe if you said what ambient temps and road surface temps you are talking about that would be informative. PS I find that CrossClimates on a most roasting Scottish Day stick like a sticking thing when accelerating and so good that for a 1/4 mile sprint i would use them. But then that is only into the mid 20's air temperature. It will be good to hear how the tyres you have now behave in the snow and when you get to summer.

The same as I reported above. He found them to be not that grippy on dry roads no matter winter or summer, beyond that they are above average for a family driving style. Both in Roomster and Logan they tend to spin when pulling from a slightly inclined intersection (just an example) or giving the feeling of loosing the traction / orbit on stiff corners. --Edit--- I am Greek and thus my English may sounds like Greek to you. I try to do my best but... ---End of edit---

Can I just check that is the Corrida Red? Hope so, I love it. Edit sorry I just read that it is. Great news, have ordered the vrs in this colour.

Looks Amazing @Walder !

The CID is not car specific, it's common to all Skoda (maybe even VAG) map SD cards. I've got 3 Skoda SD cards all purchased off eBay and all of them work with my MIB1 Amundsen - even the 5L0 ones. I've recently got an Audi SD card and when it stops raining(!) will try that with my MIB1.

@benbro I think you are concentrating on the snow performance of the winter/all season tyres. The NZ climate is perfect for all seasons unless you are driving a sports car in summer. It's definitely taking on board what @SurreyJohn says and maybe spend an hour on youtube watching reviews. TyreReviews is particularly good.

The engine management uses it for a few reasons, one of them being cruise control,

Sit back now and enjoy the fantastic drive. I'm on Skoda number twelve, (Octavia number seven) and just wouldn't buy anything else. Even looked at a couple of E class Mercs before buying my latest Octavia, and they weren't in the same league. I'm also a big Jag fan but older ones, ie, X300 XJ's from the 90's. Thought, I'll have a go at an XF. The 3.0 V6 is a powerhouse but couldn't find a decent one without issues. Tried a couple of 2.2D's but wasn't all that impressed either. Who would've thought that years ago. Skoda it is and probably always will be.

OK. So, you need to get the side trims off (both floor and roof) before you can pull the lining out enough to apply the deadening. Removing the variable boot floor is not intuitive. You need to first unscrew the VBF from the shaft that it is attached to, which in turn is connected to the hinges which are attached to the side luggage compartment trim panels. The boot roller blind can be taken off by depressing a spring button at the ends. Good lord, trying to figure out how to remove it was a real pain in the a**e. Removing the seat bench required quite a bit of wrestling and the grommets don't work now -- so have to order a new set. Warning for anyone wanting to remove the seat bench -- have a spare set of grommets ready before you take it off. The worst bit was removing that silly felt that Skoda thinks is sound insulation. Removing it was a real pain as it stuck with this gunky glue that wouldn't come off with WD 40 or natural spirit. Didn't want to try solvents on it. So did my best to expose the panels by scrubbing with plastic brush, a gentle scourer, cloth, even my fingers and dried it off before applying the sound deadening. So today I got as far as deadening + insulating left wheel arch and rear seat. Was also able to fully deaden boot floor. I've run out of insulation so more is on order. Tomorrow I take off the other side trim and lining and get on with it.

The post by @shyVRS245 is very relevant to the title of the thread. Current news story.

Don't park near Jack Grealish when he gets his licence back because judging by his careless driving in a car park at 98mph on his way to training your pride and joy will suffer from it's close encounter with his Range Rovers.

From the start of the front bumper

Thanks for your attention in trying to get help from expert guys like yourselves. It does not matter which IP or country you are from. All that I am saying is get the most relevant information to people who are experiencing any problem and follow up. And if you fixed the problem, please share it and reply to the treat.

The ECU does not know what fuel you put in, it does not measure it, it has a 3 (or more) dimensional look up table for ignition advance where the ambient temperature, engine temperature, engine revs, throttle position & many other measured variables will dictate what ignition advance it will apply based on the highest octane fuel it is rated for, as soon as knock is detected on an individual or multiple cylinders the timing will be retarded enough to prevent it. It adjusts the ignition timing and not the air/fuel ratio to prevent pre-ignition or detonation. The ECU does not adjust the fuel/air mixture according to what fuel the vehicle is consuming, I repeat it does not know, the A/F ratio is derived from a closed loop system to create a Lambda 1.0 output from the O2 (= Lambda) sensor which equates to the stoichiometric ratio, the A/F mixture is constantly being varied according to the output of the lambda sensor trying to stabilise the output to 1.0 volts.

There are lots of remap threads on here. Common figures for Stage 1 for TSI 220-245 are about 300-310 BHP, with the 280/272 around 350 Bhp. The only difficulty for the Octavia will be putting the power down efficiently at lights and roundabouts. Once you're rolling it is a lot of fun and quick.

Another shot.

Call me stupid but I always clean my trade in because I have nothing to hide.

On the day I picked it up. SEL First Edition with 18” alloys.

check the carpets and underlay for water ingress. check behind the wheel arches for a build of muck and leaves blocking the scuttle drains as this can fill up with water then gets into the cabin. check your doors- seals and the bottoms of door cards for water. if the door card has water, take it off and reseal the membrane

I was watching a review video on YouTube and told the wife I’ve ordered one, she laughed as if I was joking. So I will just collect it and turn up, there will be plenty of space in the boot for when she throws my belongings out the window lol

@MalcolmPreen you are a star mentioning the 2 metal hooks, I think I was trying to grip these as well. Thanks to all the others that indicated what to do as well Had a go and now have 2 osram nightbreaker bulbs in, seems to be working, but won’t know until nighttime how much better they are. Was never a problem in SW London (with streetlights), but unlit country roads showed how weak the lights were, especially compared to our other car with LED headlights

Racingling bits finally arrived, so fitted them yesterday!