Leaderboard

Personally I would have been absolutely delighted with Skoda's offer.

It feels bigger inside, particularly in width and length, boot is longer from rear to seats, seats are more comfortable, and ride is fantastic compared to Yeti, even though my car has the 19" wheels as standard. Actually running on the 16" winter wheels I bought for my Yeti now, third winters use, and the ride is even better on these. I never had a spare in the Yeti as it took too much of the boot. My Karoq came without a spare, but I have now retroffitted a spacesaver. This does take space in the 4x4 that I have but is still acceptable. In the 2wd you can fit a spacesaver with no loss of bootspace in existing floor recess, or indeed have a full size spare and raise the floor as you have to in the 4x4. The auto brake works so much better with the dsg than having to keep your foot on the brake in the Yeti. The Karoq just feels a generation newer, as design is 8 years newer than Yeti and there has been so much advance in technology. I have a foot sensor operated tailgate, my wife could never shut the Yeti tailgate. My car has the rear camera as standard, sensors for vehicles to the side, auto braking if you are about to reverse into something, digital dash etc, although some of these would have been extras. The 4x4 Karoq has a better rear suspension design with independent links compared to the 2wd Karoqs, and the 190ps diesel is so smooth and powerful, and quiet. What you actually get though depends on the model. I had the Yeti 150 dsg SEL Drive, with a rear camera, rear airbags, underbody protection and other extras. Now have the Karoq Edition with some extras. (Some I don't need as well such as rear seat heaters & towbar prep, but thats what happens when you buy a car from the showroom. Would have liked underbody protection and rear airbags, but can't have everything and make the decision and collect car next day)

To slightly undermine, albeit unintentionally, rum4mo's comment about fuses, (Sorry, run4mo) I have had MANY fuses and sometimes soldered joints, that when heated a little, expand and the contact is broken- no power! Cools again, -power is back so don't overlook the obvious. Change the fuse prior to any other work. Its a tiny, inexpensive item of which, most owners may already have a spare and/or they can be found in many shops, easily. Just be sure to check there is not more then one fuse serving the system. I doubt there are two but you never know.

Yes my boob, I corrected it with the next post quoting the appropriate comment Regards

Firstly you really ought to get the tyres swapped front-back to even out the wear, ideally when about 4mm of tread on front, but maybe bit late if tread is already low. I am sticking with my suggestion of Goodyear vector 4season Generation 3, or Continental all season contact. Both very good for all year use in UK climate.

I am not really much of an expert on the adding stuff to the car. What I can say to you,I ordered an style with Lane assist,side assist,front assist,High Beam Assist... pretty much everything except Traffic Sign Recognition with the thought that I would simply code it using OBD 11 after receiving the car. The option of TSR would have cost 80eur extra. My car is a MJ 21 with MIB 3 and after delivery I learned that I can only activate TSR using swaps which essentially means hacking of the main unit(and a lot more money) hope I don't say anything stupid here. Considering that MIB 3 and MJ21 are coming with different A5 cameras then the other Kodiaq's (Normal cars have either a 5Q or 3Q HW camera, the MJ will have a 2Q camera= > therefore not a lot of people would have experience in codding stuff) If I wore you I would consider to add to the order all the stuff that you would really like on the car and be done with it.

It is difficult to calculate and can probably only be qualified on the Rolling Road. I fitted a 100 mm intake with massive K&N filter to my 400bhp TVR and found that max power was obtained at about 3/4 throttle, The larger intake and filter were irrelevant.

And as above again, don't just assume it's fine by looking at it. You'll need to inspect the wiring behind the tape. Also, check the pins on the motor and into the block connect and the block connectors in the A pillar and B pillar.

Bilstein 36-199648 corresponds to OEM part number 1K0511115BS Bilstein 36-199655 corresponds to OEM part number 1K0511115BT According to Kilen's online catalogue, the Octavia MK2 RS hatchback uses 1K0511115BS and the Octavia MK2 RS estate uses 1K0511115BT Octavia MK2 RS Hatchback https://web.tecalliance.net/kilen/en/parts/176/63127/detail?targetType=cars&targetId=26623&typeNumber=26623&targetCountry=AT&groups=188#@brc/brands:Car;targetType:cars;mandator:kilen/assem:SKODA%20OCTAVIA%20II%20(1Z3)%202.0%20TDI%20RS;targetType:cars;mandator:kilen;targetId:26623;typeNumber:26623;targetCountry:AT/lnkparts:Coil%20Springs;targetType:cars;mandator:kilen;assemblyGroupId:100113;targetId:26623;typeNumber:26623;targetCountry:AT;groups:188;brands:176;pf:2;page:0/detail:63127;brandId:176;articleNo:63127;mandator:kilen;targetType:cars;targetId:26623;typeNumber:26623;targetCountry:AT;groups:188 Octavia MK2 RS Estate https://web.tecalliance.net/kilen/en/parts/176/63128/detail?targetType=cars&targetId=26624&typeNumber=26624&targetCountry=AT&groups=188#@brc/brands:Car;targetType:cars;mandator:kilen/assem:SKODA%20OCTAVIA%20II%20Combi%20(1Z5)%202.0%20TDI%20RS;targetType:cars;mandator:kilen;targetId:26624;typeNumber:26624;targetCountry:AT/lnkparts:Coil%20Springs;targetType:cars;mandator:kilen;assemblyGroupId:100113;targetId:26624;typeNumber:26624;targetCountry:AT;groups:188;brands:176;pf:2;page:0/detail:63128;brandId:176;articleNo:63128;mandator:kilen;targetType:cars;targetId:26624;typeNumber:26624;targetCountry:AT;groups:188 If you have the estate, you could use the slightly softer 1K0511115BS version if you don't normally carry a heavy load. Some aftermarket brands only sell one spring to replace both 1K0511115BS and 1K0511115BT OEM part numbers. 1K0511115BS has 1 blue dot and 2 yellow dots. 1K0511115BT has 1 blue dot and 3 yellow dots. http://www.oemepc.com/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/OCT/year/2013/drive_standart/663/hg_ug/511/subcategory/511020/part_id/0/lang/e

The mirror has a light sensitive film over the glass so your best course of action is buy another mirror. Unless of course you can scrape the film off.

I'll try this on my own car - tomorrow or Saturday - before suggesting anyone else does; but testing the motor appears to be as easy as unplugging the connector from this socket of the onboard supply unit, and connecting pin 3 to pin 4 on the loom connector with a (thickish) link wire for slow/normal speed wiper action, and pin 3 to pin 5 for high speed. If you do decide to try this please note: pulling that connector does deprive the control unit of its main earth, so do it with engine off, keys out of ignition to minimise 'system confusion'. This unit lives above the accelerator pedal on RHD cars, above clutch pedal on LHD.

Not necessarily. Most of us heavy 'modders' know that VW put in lots of nicw things into our cars but don't necessarily switch it all on. I will check at the weekend.

Check motor operation by connecting 12V directly to the appropriate pins. May be easier to do this from the cabin end of things, rather than in the scuttle area, will look at pin numbers/connectors later for you. If that works on both speeds it may be the relay on the PCB of the onboard supply control unit: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/473170-wiper-relay-replacement/

Hi, I've never had this problem on a VW Group car, but to cover some of your list 2) fuses are either okay as far as the fusible part is concerned or it has blown open circuit. 3) stalks can go bad, but I thought that this applies to newer cars usually. 4) when the spindle bearings start to run dry with age etc, the wipers usually start to slow down quite a bit before thermal overload etc kicks in - have you noticed that the wipers sweep a lot slower than they used to, if so that would be a very cheap and easy fix to make? Also as no doubt you know, there is a remote controller that switches the voltage to the wiper. I think that you will need to work your way through all your listed options, all you need to do with respect to the fuses is to make sure that they are all fully seated in their slots, maybe a bit of a worry that you have had a major power issue though, hopefully that has not caused this (controller).

I'm currently running My Skoda and Connect Lite on my Karoq built in the July to November 2018 period. I have an Android phone, I use something called Hotspot Automatic that creates a hotspot when my phone connects to the cars bluetooth and the car uses this for the navigation traffic information and the other limited bits like weather and news on the Amundsmen infotainment unit. Using My Skoda, I don't have to connect with a usb, it seems to connect to the car via the wifi hotspot but I do have to start the My Skoda app and go into Logbook if I want a trip recorded. It then sits there telling me not to close the window if I want the trip recorded. As it takes my phone and the car a hundred yards to get the wifi hot spot activated and the car connected to the internet the journeys start recording a short distance from home. Using Connect Lite, this connects using the bluetooth dongle, it's automatic, I don't have to start the Connect Lite app, it connects as soon as the phone connects to bluetooth which is almost instant. On a recent jouney, My Skoda says it was 19 miles, my average rpm was 1668 rpm, my average speed was 9 mph and it took 40 minutes (19 miles in 2/rds of an hour was 28 mph when I went to school). Efficiency was 78%. There's a few bits of info on the map, highest rpm 4122 rpm. Maximum speed 15 mph (totally wrong) Also some other info about left and right lateral acceleration (0.3g), not sure if that's the car telling me or if it's using my phone. Some of the information looks decidedly wrong. Connect Lite agrees 19miles, average speed was 30mph, max speed 55 mph. duration 41 minutes. Fuel cost £2.Exhaust gas temp 673.6 degrees C, oil temperature 41.1 C (I suspect that might be an average didn't check). My efficiency taking everything into account was 93%. I should soon have enough points to add coolant and Intake air temperature, but a while to go before I get to see Throttle Valve position. The map has little red lines which I suspect is when I was accelerating. As Connect Lite is completely automatic and seems to offer more accurate information (it does come from the cars OBD port) of the two it seems the winner and if you're into apps worth a fiver for the bluetooth sender unit Neither allow me to see the Digital Service History though which was a feature of the app My Skoda replaced. Both apps no doubt send loads of information back to VAG but Connect Lite probably a lot more as it's in touch with the cars electronics via the EBD, just like in a plane though I don't suppose there's a technician watching the performance like there is for Rolls Royce aero engines.

you see those three plastic welds? you need to dremmel those off gently. if you are delicate you can leave enough material that they can be melted back on when you refit the speaker holder. Looks like you have done your homework and planned it well. If you are keeping the original wiring the harness should be enough, are you placing the LC2i behind the screen? it would keep the wiring run really short ive finished mine but need to get a proper system setup with the right (pro) equipment before i make any videos. I might upgrade to a full DSP setup as well I love watching other installs and im looking forward to this one!

I think there should be a live data for the actuator to see what voltage it is. I believe the basic setting is done through the turbocharger adaption. It might be worth contacting someone like darkside developments who are excellent and he might be able to talk you through the process.

Has the wastegate been properly pre loaded as I know they are done by voltage rather than distance. It sounds like the wastegate has too much preload.

Mine squeaks from the suspension bushes(many MQB does) and gets noisier in the winter. I know some dealers put some special grease which last for 6 months or even an year. Or at least that's what they do in Bulgaria.. I would prefer to change them, but AFAIK bushes aren't gone when they start to squeak, just noisier.

All I contacted DVSA and here is the key part of their reply: "Thank you for your email enquiry dated 12 December 2020, concerning the MOT. DVSA is concerned to receive any complaints where it is alleged that a test certificate has been improperly issued but in order that action can be taken it is essential that the matter should be reported as soon as possible after the test, and before repair work has been carried out. I regret that the fact that the vehicle has had repair work carried out, precludes our taking any action in an appeal against the test result in this case. However, your concerns regarding the MOT garage have been forwarded to the appropriate Regional Intelligence Unit for your area for further investigation." I note from this that if you have concerns about the MOT then DO NOT fix the problem and leave everything as it is on the car. Obviously, thank is going to be difficult in many cases if that car is your main mode of transport. Whilst I was paying the garage bill, their MOT section were being inspected by DVSA. The inspector was happy to talk about this incident and had these wise words (paraphrased). 1. MOT stations are not obliged to put advisories on the MOT certificate - they should do. 2. Take the MOT as quite a low bar as far as car condition is concerned. It only means it was good to be on the road the moment the inspector inspected the car. 3. If you can't fully inspect the car yourself then as soon as you get the car home take it to a garage (you trust) and get them to look over it. 4. DVSA won't entertain looking at corrosion problems after 3 months from the MOT. 5. If the car has less than 100,000 miles on the clock you might be able to go back to the manufacturer. After 100,000 miles - no chance. So, a learning experience. I hope it can help others not make the mistakes I made...

Yes it is common, your car has summer tyres, but the tyres and road were cold. The tsi engines are fairly light (compared to great chunk of cast iron in a diesel), so not a lot of deadweight to improve friction. The only solution is to use all season tyres (or winter tyres). What you have discovered is that since all season tyres have been introduced in last few years, summer tyres have become more summer like, and are hard and not grippy in cold weather. The Bridgestone Turanza T005 summer touring tyre came out in 2018 (after Bridgestone had introduced the weather control A005 all season) As a rough guide, since the introduction of all season tyres, all seasons are for -5c to +25c (will work outside this range, but not as good), latest summer tyres are best +7c to +40c (starts nearer +11c in wet). Obviously latest summer tyres are not designed for all year use in UK climate. It is annoying that can’t specify all season tyres from new, but you can choose 4wd with summer tyres, a combination which is less effective in cold rain / slush / snow / frost than 2wd and 3PMSF (3 peak mountain snowflake rated) tyres. If you want a recommendation I would suggest Goodyear Vector 4 season Generation 3, or Continental all season contact tyres. But whatever you choose it is frustrating to have to sell at give away prices your existing nearly new tyres.

There is no hidden memory slot. It's just the CID... It can be read from any OS with an appropriate tool. In most cases the CID can only be set at manufacture time. However, there are some Samsung cards where it can be changed but they are probably a similar price to the genuine cards

That's poor documentation - a Skoda SD card is essential with an Amundsen.

100%, that's my 'local' I'll be heading there a couple times over Christmas. have you heard they're removing the dirt jump area

The 1 litre has recently been changed from 115 to 110 hp I too would suggest this with DSG I have a 1.0tsi DSG in our Arona and it is Brilliant I.0tsi works very well with DSG, but is not the easiest to live with if you want a manual gearbox (especially on mountain roads) as it it not happiest engine in wrong gear for speed. Also be aware the manual might come with lower power version of 1.0tsi

@makemywish There are some out there

Mine went back for warranty work on suspension creaks, which resolved the noises being made. G

@makemywish Good job! I have been deadening my last 3 cars with the same material. But with my new Octavia I thought of using some spray on deadener first,let it dry then apply the "normal"deadener. Not my car in the pic!

A great starting point is to figure out the part number of the original springs. This can be done by looking at the coloured paint mark sequence on them, then referring to sites like 7-zap,com which 'parallel' ETKA. Can't do much without those colour mark sequences in my experience. By the way your typo conjured up a great mental picture for me, setting me up for the day with some comedy - "otters online".

No, maps for Amundsen are different to Columbus ones. You can find latest maps at Volkswagen Maps & Software Update website - for Amundsen maps pls select Beetle then Discover Media and then download file for required region. No VIN is needed

I got a new Citroën BX TZD Turbo estate in 1990. I thrashed it mercilessly (it only had 90 bhp and 133 lbs-ft) for over 8 years and 238K miles until I managed to write it off in a low speed shunt. It was still on the original turbo, the head had never been lifted and it was still going strong at that point. I drove the MK4 Golf GT TDI that I bought new in 2000 the same way for 8 years and albeit only 120k miles. Similarly, the Mk5 I bought new in 2008 and had remapped to 210 bhp and 330 lbs-ft, 5 years later and sold earlier this year at 90+K miles. It was replaced by a Yeti which now has c. 185 bhp. I'll continue to make use of all the performance that it has and more if I get round to adding another 40 bhp or so to it, running it on Shell V Power and thrashing it once the oil temperature is up. Make of that what you will....

OK. So done with it. Apologies no pictures as it was tipping it and early darkness meant I had to work at breakneck speed. Finished at 9pm finally. Made some rookie mistakes such as not factoring in tolerances for the variable boot floor and the bottom trim, which I will rectify in the spring/summer. But seriously, the parts used in these cars are just really flimsy. So, lessons: a) this is a job for spring or summer when you have a lot of light or else if you have a spacious and well lit garage. b) make sure you mark out where the trims go and do not apply the treatment to those areas -- or at least do not apply the insulation. What people are most interested in knowing -- is it worth the effort? The noise from the rear is significanty reduced. Of course, there will be the low frequency noise that the tyres generate from certain tarmac that cannot be eliminated, but signifiant drop in the mid and higher frequency noise. The noise now comes from the front and middle section of the car, which I will taking care of next. But already the stock stereo sounds much better and this is despite all the boom coming from the car doors.

Are you suggesting that in this day and age that we (the hard-working consumer) shouldn't use the likes of Carwow, and come forearmed with facts and figures?? One would hope that dealers actually expect it...

Rear number plate LED Controller 09 - Central Electronics -> 16 - Security Access - enter 31347 -> 10 - Adaptations (1)-Leuchte25KZL HA59-Lasttyp 25 - set to: 43 - allgemeine LED (6) Leuchte25KZL HA59 - Dimmwert AB 25 - set to whatever you need to adjust brightness, having said that some Led's will not dim, they will just stay the same until they go out.

Shall I get the violin out lol!? The world we live in I'm afraid..

Disgraceful that your original dealer has increased their price. I would have said just walk away but you have already done that. Good on you. Maybe someday, dealers will learn that the customer is king but it will be a long time coming. Like many other businesses, it seems to me that sellers don't want to deal with customers properly these days. That's fine but they will pay the price.

Hahah I wish it was done. Still lots more to do. 🤣

I've moved from an Octavia 3 L&K diesel 150 DSG to a Scala 1.5 Petrol DSG SEL First Edition. The build quality of the Scala is at least equivalent but the level of equipment lower by comparison to L&K specification but Skoda no longer do an Octavia in that specification in the UK. Ride quality in my experience is slightly better and handling slightly lighter (my Scala has chassis control but otherwise has same torsion rear suspension set up) Fuel consumption over first 1000 miles half of which was on motorway averaged 55MPG I'm ok with the touchscreen controls and like the virtual cockpit

I've had three Yeti's and driven the 150 and 170 extensively. The 150 and 170 have near identical maximum torque. 340 vs 350 NM. So midrange performance is very similar. The 150 being a later engine is smoother, quieter and more responsive and is the nicer unit. The only time the 170 feels stronger is pushing past 3500rpm when the extra power is felt. For me I'd always go for the 150PS as it's a nicer unit to drive with, avoids any complications with the emission systems fix and is compliant for many ULEZ areas.

The engine management uses it for a few reasons, one of them being cruise control,

OK. So, you need to get the side trims off (both floor and roof) before you can pull the lining out enough to apply the deadening. Removing the variable boot floor is not intuitive. You need to first unscrew the VBF from the shaft that it is attached to, which in turn is connected to the hinges which are attached to the side luggage compartment trim panels. The boot roller blind can be taken off by depressing a spring button at the ends. Good lord, trying to figure out how to remove it was a real pain in the a**e. Removing the seat bench required quite a bit of wrestling and the grommets don't work now -- so have to order a new set. Warning for anyone wanting to remove the seat bench -- have a spare set of grommets ready before you take it off. The worst bit was removing that silly felt that Skoda thinks is sound insulation. Removing it was a real pain as it stuck with this gunky glue that wouldn't come off with WD 40 or natural spirit. Didn't want to try solvents on it. So did my best to expose the panels by scrubbing with plastic brush, a gentle scourer, cloth, even my fingers and dried it off before applying the sound deadening. So today I got as far as deadening + insulating left wheel arch and rear seat. Was also able to fully deaden boot floor. I've run out of insulation so more is on order. Tomorrow I take off the other side trim and lining and get on with it.

So - just it depends on whether you have KESSY or no KESSY. On KESSY system, you will have to replace the batteries every 6 months maximum. Its a pain.... On Non-KESSY systems, depending on how many times you open or close the car, you can get away with 12-18 months. The cyphers are more complex (uses more battery/compute power) and the TX/RX power levels could be higher on the MK3. The other thing I would recommend - is making sure that you keep your KESSY keys away from each other (ie not on the same bunch of keys). This will run down the batteries quicker (because the keys check every couple of seconds if they are near the car and if there are lots of transmitting keys on the same keyring, they will interfere with each other). The KESSY system using proximety and constant radio telemetry to report they are in the car and this will also utilise additional power usage.

Short story: 235/45R17 fits nicely on my stock suspension Octavia 1.8T. Also looks nice and aggresive on Avus Audi S3 17" rims (wider and more offset than stock 17" spyder rims), my intention of keeping the car as a sleeper just went down the drain. Before/after pics below. Long story: So after running around the whole year incognito mode, steel 15" rims 195/65R15 w/o hubcaps, enjoying myself, and faces of unsuspecting BMW drivers - I've done the famous AUM stage 1 remap to 210 hp after which the tyres can't handle the acceleration in first two gears, and made the car almost impossible to accelerate/drive when raining so I had to do something about the grip. The idea was to get ANY cheapo/trash/dank - undamaged 17" rim to fit the standard 225/45R17, I really wanted some Fe rims (again, incognito-sleeper style), but they don't exist in 57,1 5x100 dimensions (there is a 5x100 17" steel rim, but it's for some huge Renault, and I think it's only for the spare wheel, making the rim witdh in range of lol-J). There is a lot to choose in 16" region, but 205 is just too small for the power the car makes, IMHO. I even looked into 215 combinations in 16" and not only there is no performance tyre in this dimension, it's ridiculously expensive. Mind you, I'm running standard setup on all four corners - Bilstein B4 shocks, Bilstein OEM springs - no lowering, I was a click away to order the heightened springs!! I'm never going to be a style-slave, laughing while just casually cruising over speedbumps whereas dropped GTI's/Type-R's/RS's have to do the diagonal idle+clutch maneuvers I also fancied the idea of fitting larger tyres on it, 235/45R17, my flow of thought was the following, pros/cons: + more grip ofcourse + more offset/scrub radius - more initial turn-in, responsiveness on the steering wheel + more accurate speedo + keeping comfort (decent sidewall) + less wear + overall height of car increased, again more comfort + tyre "attack angle" smaller, making it easier to run over obstacles (eg. curbs, speed-bumps), again, even more comfort (you probably noticed a pattern, I'm anti-style oriented, pro-sleeper/comfort style :)) + visually I always liked seeing fat-meaty tyres in the back + only slightly more expensive than 225/45R17 - very little experience on Octavia mk1 + that tyre combo, some say it fit's others say it doesn't - much heavier - slower acceleration - possible rubbing - worse fuel consumption (it's LPG-ed and it's dirt cheap here in Croatia) Anyway, I managed to snatch a great deal on original 17" Audi S3 "Avus" Alu rims (made by Ronal, Made in Germany), bonus points: they are 6 mm more offset and 0.5J wider than standard rims 17" Spyders, making way for wider tyre! All the calculations point to no rubbing with 235/45R17 ( https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/?wheel1=195-65-15X6ET38&wheel2=235-45-17X7.5ET32&fcl=50mm&scl=50mm&wcl=30mm&sr=0mm left is my standard setup, right is Avus). But a real life test is needed, I don't want to risk spending €€€'s and putting new summer 235's just to find out they don't fit/rub! So I also managed to snatch winter tyres dirt cheap (almost free), Hankook Winter iCept 235/45R17 DOT2016 halfway worn - perfect for testing out the setup - if it fits, great, if it doesn't I spent a few hours and a few bucks demistifying it. Putting on just the rim on the car was a shock, when lifted, viusally seems like ~2 cm more than outline of car, ouch - on the inside though, quite a lot of space; the guys at the wheel shop rolled they eyes constantly We fitted the tyre rim combo, dropped the car, did a run around the lot full lock..... Purrrrfect, no rubbing, and when car is sitting on it's own it's just right, slightly out of car outline, this will be a slight pain to homologate tho. Inital impressions after a few runs: +/- wheels are a stunner, so much for my incognito/sleeper preferences, honestly, looks much more aggressive than the RS... I guess I'll deal with it. + very soft and controlled wheelhop, car doesn't want to break apart when you loose grip + comfortable + better turn-in, much less wobbly car - awfully heavy, steel rims+tyre 16.6 kg, alu rims+tyre 22.4 kg, ouch, you can see the pictures below, but I'll write up for any google search guys to stumble upon this, I find it invaluable info: - 235/45R17 Hankook Winter iCept 1/2 worn: 10.5 kg - Audi S3 Ronal Alu 17" rims: 11.7 kg - 17" above tyre+rim combo: 22.4 kg - 15" stock steel rim + 195/65R15 Pirelli P7 combo: 16.6 kg - noticeably "slower", feeling is the inital throttle response is much lazier, not so agressive as on 15"; can't really blame it, the car couldn't even accelerate before Didn't try the twisties yet, but the idea is to run around a few weeks and notice how the car behaves and if there will be no rubbing in spring get the Goodyears F1 Assy 5 in 235/45R17. @Madket

It is very concerning for someone who will be changing their rather old Fabia TDI to something along the lines of this post...... i have been looking at Honda and Toyota as its these two which are the stand out manufacturers for me, i just do not like some of the interiors or styling, can't fault the reliability though.

Yes you absolutely should given the circumstances, if they are not reactive I would confront the MOT test station and the selling garage, the former are more likely to worry than the latter. Do a DVLA check to see if the vehicle was by any chance tested & failed elsewhere.

Hi. If you have any issues with insurance at all for a change of wheels then please feel free to drop me a line. Regards, Dan.

My old car......

nice one of grey hatch