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We recently bought a Yeti and didn't realise that the rear wiper wasn't working, I tracked the lack of activity down to a missing fuse in the interior fuse box, but when I replaced it I found that the rear wiper ran all the time (one wipe every 10 seconds) no matter where the wiper stalk was set, also would randomly trigger and sometimes run continuous while driving. I also found an error code in the BCM which rather unhelpfully said "Pump electronics failure" and no other information. The rear motor has power all the time via the now replaced fuse, on pins 1 and 4. Pins 2-3 connect to the BCM and the washer motor, which triggers the rear wiper to do 3 wipes after washing, or runs continuous if you hold the stalk on wash. I found pin 2 of the motor shorted to ground, after pulling the whole tailgate apart as well as the D-pillar plastics to get acccess to the wiring loom. This wire causes the motor to run once every 10 seconds when it's connected to ground. After pulling the dashboard apart to check the BCM I found the short circuit was not inside the BCM, but when I removed the plug from the washer pump the short circuit became intermittent. If I pulled and pushed on the harness the short would come and go. I traced the short circuit down to the wiring loom underneath the drivers side (RHS/RHD) headlight unit, this car has Xenon headlights and I found a badly placed wiring loom was shorting on the metal casing of the ballast. Headlight top, wiring loom middle, inner wing below. Headlight removed, zero ohms between washer pump connector and probe touching bared surface of wire. Hole in Green wire, barely visible. Area under the headlight where the wire was touching. Managed to separate the wires out of the loom, cleaned and insulated the notch with some impact glue, wrapped with self amalgamating tape, electrical tape and eventually relocated the loom and protected with Teflon Spiral-wrap. Full functionality was restored after turning the ignition off and on again, please note that if the BCM detects a short circuit it WILL NOT try again until you cycle the ignition. Note that you can reach the washer pump clip through the slit in the front bumper and by removing the trim panel directly below the washer bottle, in front of the front wheel. The manual says to remove the bumper but it's not strictly necessary.

Hi, Just thought I would share my experience with a window regulator replacement on a 2007 Octavia 2. This is the left rear regulator. I used a bodywork dent puller suction pad and a ratchet strap (strap not really needed as the suction cup rests against the window rubber) to hold the window up while I replaced the regulator. The plastic window holder on the regulator had broken, along with the cable. I bought a 2nd hand regulator with the motor from an auction site for £16 . I didn't fancy re-fitting the regulator to the door with rivets as I don't have lazy tongs (large hand riveter), so I decided to buy a set of Aluminium Rivnuts with steel thread inserts from an auction site for £6 for a 100 mixed set (25 each M4, M5, M6 & M8). I bought aluminium Rivnuts because research showed that fitting by hand works best with Aluminium Rivnuts, without the need for special tools. I used a tube or cone drill (2nd from the right), from Aldi for £4.99 for the set. I opened the holes in the door frame to 9mm, which is the required size for an M6 Rivnut. This type of cutter is much better than a standard HSS twist drill when drilling sheet materials as a tube drill doesn't "grab" as breaks through the material like a twist drill can, plus, a twist drill can leave a slightly "out of round" hole, whereas a tube drill makes a perfectly round hole. Once the hole is drilled, remove the burr from the front and rear of the hole, using a counter sink bit (included in the set I bought). Now insert the RIvnut, with an M6 bolt, an M6 nut and two washers. Make sure the bolt is screwed in flush with the end of the Rivnut, to ensure and even spread of load on the thread as you set the Rivnut in place. Using a socket drive, hold the bolt (and the Rivnut) square to the hole in the panel, and using a ratchet spanner, tighten nut onto the RIvnut. The Rivnut may spin at first, but keep going and eventually it will bite on the rear of the panel. Then it will start to deform as it is drawn towards the panel. When the spanner starts to get tight, slow down, otherwise the Rivnut thread can be stripped. Once spanner is tight (don't go mad), slacken the nut, then remove the bolt from the Rivnut. The use of Rivnuts made it possible to remove the regulator unit for test purposes, which would not have been possible if rivets had been used. To get the glass to sit in the plastic holder on the regulator unit, remove the motor from the regulator (3x Torx T30) then move the plastic glass holder on the regulator up to the top of the movement, MAKE SURE YOU DON'T LET THE PLASTIC GLASS HOLDER GO OFF THE END OF THE REGULATOR TRACK, AS THERE IS NO END STOP!!!! Remove the rubber grommet, which then allows you to see the regulator track and the alignment hole on the plastic glass carrier (can only seen when the glass is lowered). With the glass slightly lowered (about 50mm opening) offer the regulator into place, while locating the glass in the plastic carrier. Now move the regulator into place and locate the metal dowels (on the rear of the regulator) into the locating holes in the door frame. Now fit the M6x25mm screws to hold the regulator in place. Once all screws are refitted, lower the glass using a pair of needle nose pliers to drive the regulator gear, until the hole in the glass is visible through the access hole (access hole in panel is approximately 40mm diameter). You can now push the larger plastic dowel into the glass, through the plastic glass retaining bracket (it should "Click" into place in the glass). Now gently push the small dowel into the larger dowel, which causes the larger dowel to expand slightly. Re-fit the rubber grommet. Check that the window can go up and down by turning the regulator gear with the needle nose pliers (carefully, but don't put anything in the splines of the gear, as this is what the motor drives). When you are happy with the operation, re-fit the motor with 3 screws. Re-connect the multi way plug to the rear of the motor. When you try the window, it will not do "one-shot" function until the window has been lowered fully (and is held there to mark the end of travel position) and the same for the upper movement. Once you have performed the upper and lower end of travel operations, the "one shot" function will work. Hope this helps. Russ

I believe the engine has 3 pumps. A charge cooler pump ( electrical ), a cabin heater pump ( electrical ), & main engine coolant pump ( mechanically driven off the cam belt ) with an electrically controlled sleeve. Disconnect the plug for the N489 valve as shown in the picture link item No 1. Once the sleeve becomes free it won't operate & get stuck again, car can be driven for ever & a day after that or you can get it changed at great expense.

Startup logo change instruments (Maxidot) 17 instruments Byte9 bit 0-2 1 Škoda 2 blank 3 vRS 4 L&K 5 scout 6 Škoda 7 Škoda 8 blank

STG 5F information electrical Coding Byte 18 Following startup logos are possible: Logo Bit 0 Bit 1 Bit 2 Skoda logo disabled disabled disabled RS logo enabled disabled disabled L & K logo enabled enabled disabled Monte Carlo logo enabled enabled enabled Scout logo disabled enabled disabled Greenline logo disabled disabled enabled

My MG TF is the opposite. The OEM jack takes the load on the three part welded sill seam as other cars. On the MG there is a central thicker web, the two outer parts are the floor pressing and the outer sill of thinner material. I don't jack on the sill, but on both front and rear subframes which are comparatively sturdy and have nice flat jacking surfaces. For the Skoda I use the front subframe, and a flat patch just in front of the rear trailing arm location, leaving the sill seams to the mercy of tyre fitters and my local Skoda agent. In the summer months I renew the seam sealer where destroyed to preserve them.

Personally i really liked the Kodiaq, But i just couldn't think of six other people that i liked so i bought the Superb.

Well, after 4 years of owning the Octavia vRS, it’s time to move on. Couldn’t really fault the Skoda......fairly quick......economical......and practical. I’m moving on to something just as economical, just as practical, but a little bit quicker! Who knows, I’m might return to Skoda ownership in the future.

Our one is 3 years old and 60,000 trouble free miles so far. Got a 4 year warranty as I was a bit wary of the 3 cylinder but it has been great. Just change the oil every 10k for piece of mind.

Yeah as all the other posts say, the only fix is new blades. The Original ones are plain crap. I’ve just got the Bosch aerotwins recommended above.

definitely not the skin on skin friction is also annoying...

May be they did. Looks my stars haven’t aligned properly during the time I ordered my car, lol. I will refer to horoscope before I order my next, which is 4 years from now anyway .

The theory is that when braking, the alternator is electronically adjusted to give a higher than usual output voltage that can supposedly dump a lot of charge relatively quickly into the battery. This puts more mechanical load on the alternator, so helping to slow the vehicle. I've always had the gut feeling that the amount of time I have the brakes on during any of my normal journeys would make this energy recovery miniscule, if I had a car with such system.

oh my god the f#&$^g ITCHING!!!!!!!! its really starting to get a tad irritating.

Charge Management & Regenerative Braking (Micro hybrid 2) Charge Management It is likely that vehicle owners would not be aware of the installation of this technology as its operation is seamless, unlike Stop/Start which is clearly detectable as the engine stops if all system operating conditions are fulfilled when the vehicle comes to rest When the alternator is running it can typically consume up to 10% of the power produced by the engine. The charge management system effectively switches off the charging system by disconnecting the alternators drive from the engine. This increases the loads placed on the battery but significantly improves the fuel economy of the vehicle The major fuel economy benefits of a charge management system are achieved on longer distance journeys. The use of this system shows that one technology alone is not the solution to every drive cycle but is important as part of an overall package of emission reduction and economy initiatives The life expectations of the battery are greatly increased as it is supporting all of the electrical loads on the vehicle when the charge management system is operating The introduction of charge management systems has resulted in the development of new battery technologies and designs with increased performance. These include EFB and AGM battery types which have a significantly better cyclic life and improved operation in low states of charge Regenerative Braking Regenerative Braking systems recover the energy normally converted into and lost as heat during vehicle braking. When available the recovered energy is fed back into the charging system to recharge the battery A conventional technology battery is very inefficient when utilized in in a regenerative braking system. This type of battery is only able to reuse approximately 5 to 15% of the recovered energy due to its relatively high internal resistance. New battery technology developments such as EFB and AGM with reduced internal resistances provide more efficient use of the recovered energy.

i have the 1.5 dsg,,,however due to the constant lockdowns. I have had it over 3 months and only done 859 miles. Therefore i don't think my recommendation should count for a lot. However ! it's ****ing quite cool in SP mode and delivers about 46mpg in urban . DS as mentioned above always tries to go into highest gear...not very exciting...(but frugal) ... BUT as a certain fat tory times correspondent plays in a series called the world tour and has so far upset all known life forms ( personally i love the show) ....anyway where was i ..... OH YEA ..... POWER (albeit a little bit more)

Ah, Found in another thread cheers TMB!

Once you have the callipers off to change the discs etc, or even before, lever the ball-end of the cable out of its slot in the calliper handbrake lever - then try moving each lever, that will tell you if it is the levers that are stiff and so need cleaned and free'd up, or the cable. I don't think that you will notice much from a bowden cable while one end of it is free from its normal "load".

Good morning folks and as the year draws to a close I thought some of you might be interested in these stats for my 2018 1.5 DSG Petrol Karoq. I did my last fill up of petrol last week and I don't think I will be driving any great distance soon... I did not keep record from August 2018 when I got it but I now have a couple of years of data. Obviously 2020 has been some what of a different year from 2019 and my driving distance have dropped some what. But it does give some ideas on what you might get and may be helpful for others? Lets hope 2021 improves. The last two images show all figures added together to produce a total based on everything but you will see the last few months I have barely been driving any where and the short journeys hammer the MPG.

Yep 6 speed, but the engine noise wasn't a problem as wind and road noise drowned the engine noise from 50km/h upwards, of course there was a noise when engine was put under load or revving but for normal driving all the other noises took over. I had the estate, could be that the sedan has less noise and the problem was mostly resonances from the luggage area.. Also had 18" standard wheels on the Superb, with ventilated leather and massage. Never tried the bucket seats, they might fit my body better

I wonder how it looks to the driver close behind ...

Mind that for the Continent it's Bosch Aerotwin A863S (and A331H for the rear).

The best fix for this is bosch aerotwin a 684 s for the front wipers and bosh a 331 h for the rear wiper both my sportline and my dads SE L had judders and sticky wipers and the bosch wipers fix it

I cannot comment on reliability of the engines as I only bought mine last week. I'd be interested to hear from those who have had theirs much longer. However, having downsized from a 2 litre diesel Octavia, I can say that the 1.0 litre Fabia estate 110 bhp I've bought is surprisingly quick. One other thing I'd say is that, like you, I had intended to go for a low mileage used Fabia estate (perhaps 1 year old), but I found dealers seem to be falling over themselves to sell new ones. I used the CarWow service and found brand new unregistered Fabia estates being offered for prices very close to 1 year old ones. The dealer I bought from actually pre-registered an unregistered one just for me so they could sell it at a price that was equal to 1 year old ones. I understand that a new design (MK4) is due out and I wonder if dealers are clearing existing stock of their Mk3s.

My original rear wiper judders according to how cold it is. No real problem with the fronts. I use VAG washer fluid and when the screen gets greasy I clean it with white vinegar. tom

@Walder My Superb is Full LED too, but the boot torch is stil regular yellow, same for my glovebox, i wanted to change those also, but the torch wouldn't open without probably breaking it, and the glovebox has no need to upgrade to LED. As i shared my thoughts on the Dutch SkodaForum, people told me that it was better to keep at least one light in the car W5, this because of the fact remaining power in the system will tend to seek the weakest resistance, the W5 bulbs will ensure the remaining power dies out, if you would replace everything with LED's, the power wouldn't die out this easily, causing lights to keep shining on a minimum strenght for a long period of time. So i have been told. The torch is somewhat uselles in this day and age, with mobile phones and such, and you already have enormous light from the two upper trunk LED's, if you really dislike the yellow torch, you could tape it of with some black velcro tape, gone is the yellow light and it looks decent. Sorry if my English is somewhat crappy, it's not my native language. Grts JeSko

As above. Bought these https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00W1KKYUI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 in Aug, factory fitted blades now reside in landfill somewhere. 👍

There are several threads on this. Some people advocate cleaning the glass with this or that but the general consensus is that you need the Bosch Aerotwin wipers.........

Take the stat out and see if problem disappears.

Well done fella. I had a feeling you might find something like this. Loom shorts to chassis seem to be getting accidentally/carelessly 'designed in' more and more often, sadly.

Located and repaired this fault, found short circuit beneath the drivers side headlight. Repair details here;

Well... I bought it... Got an ok deal, near enough immaculate outside and in. Some stone chips but nothing major especially for a 13 year old car 🙂 Does anyone know if the mk2 VRS came with brembo calipers as standard or even optional extra? Looking forward to getting involved on here now 🙂

There she goes... Used long pliers and fingers. It was very easy to wiggle it out into the tank and a bit harder to actually pull it out of the tank. Under a minute job with tank I have.

I would go to Gretna again for sure 👍

... and they are soooo much better than the standard Skoda lights.

Remember that you would only have to buy these lights once!

A week ago I returned my Superb to the dealer @ 87 000miles, got 17 000£ for it, Iconsider this a good trade in price in Sweden at least. After one weeks driving andapprox 1000miles in the V60CC B4 my impressions is the following: Start/stop function - In the Superb I always deactivated this function due to the delay when pulling away, also it was quite noticable and generated a lot of vibrations when starting. The B4 engine doesn't vibrate in the same extent, not at all when starting. Engine is started before the foot is completely of the brake pedal - no delay at all and the function is active all the time. Gearbox - DSG is kind of quick and could shift seamlessly under the right circumstances, but it had its quirks when it didn't know what gear to use coming into a roundabout. The torque converter connected to the B4 might not be as efficient but it never hesitates and even when under load it shifts silky smooth. Steering - I really miss the progressive steering from the Superb, it was one of the things that I didn't think I would miss but I was so wrong! The Volvo is "sharper" when turning but not enough to make any difference. Comfort - One thing I knew I would miss, the DCC in comfort mode when going straight on country roads, Volvo is firmer and sits somewhere between Normal and Sport of the Superb. A lot less body roll in the Volvo and better suspension setup makes it feel more in control and agile on twisty roads. Soundlevel in cabin is in a different world, with the acoustic glass there is no wind noise present at all in the Volvo, also noise from tyres are a fair bit lower even though the Superb was equipped with Michelin Cross Climate and the Volvo has Spiked Hakkapelitta 9 tyres. Rattle from gravel is effectively silenced in the Volvo while it was very loud and present in the Superb. Seats - This is subjective but this is the reality for me - In the Superb a 200miles drive would cause back pain no matter sitting position, in the Volvo I went on a 450miles trip last Tuesday and didn't get any pain at all. To be honest the old Volvo seats in XC70 or the higher spec seats are even more comfortable. Space - Superb is a clear winner, both front, rear and luggage. Storage is also a lot better in the Superb. Headlights - Xenon on the Superb with SLA and everything + a 160W led bar, Volvo equipped with Dynamic LED and 90W led bar. Dipped light in the Superb is actually brighter with a better light dispersion, Full beam is a LOT better in the Volvo and the automatic lights actually works so good I can leave them in all the time as it also controls the led bar effectively. In the Superb I couldn't use the SLA with the led bar, when using without the bar half of the oncoming vehicles flashed me to turn the full beam off. Climate - Volvo reaches 21c a lot quicker than the Superb, but non of the cars suffers from cold or warm spots in the cabin. Heat are distributed just as good in both cars. Superb had 3 zones, Volvo 2zones, both has remote controlled diesel heaters, Volvo can be remotely started to heat up even faster. Infotainment - Both has those horrible touch screens, Volvos has an edge in responsiveness and the bigger screen but. Functionality is about par with some differences in approach, Volvo has all important settings reachable with one swipe right while the Columbus has them hidden in a menu three. In my opinion both solutions are equally bad - always requires focus to be taken of the road... Sound system - Canton in Superb, High Performance in Volvo. More oumph i. The Superb but a more full and harmonic sound in the Volvo. To my ears the Volvo system is more natural sounding and has a better roll off in the treble. Sound quality is lower in the V60CC compared to same spec XC70, Superb has an edge in the clarity between 1500hz to 5000hz, Volvo has an edge as it actually reproduces sound between 300Hz and 120Hz where the Canton really lacks. Ambient light - Beautifull in the Superb, in the Volvo this is limited to two ledlights in the ceiling. Fuel economy - Hard to tell but it looks to be in the same area, still learning the Volvo. Between 70km/h and 100km/h B4 takes less fuel, but on twisty roads it uses more fuel. Highway driving they both use 5.5L/100km Power delivery - B4 has an almost linear power delivery but it doesn't really benefit from high revs, Superb felt snappier on some occasions and in some like an old lump that didn't know what to do. All in all both are really good cars, V60CC handles a lot better on uneven roads, better sound proofing and better seats. The Superb is more comfortable on straight roads, has more space and a better dipped beam. I miss the Superb but I don't regret that I got the V60CC.

You will have to grind down the casing on the bluetooth casing and even then it needs a lot of persuading, if you can find a cabled OBDII reader or another plug that first you will see the size you need to get down to, the housing on the Octavia 2 has no clearance for anything but the standardised plug.

My VRS in quartz grey.

Finally got round to having the detachable tow bar and the ebaich 30mm springs fitted. I have to say car looks far better and more sport / factory look which is what I was hoping for as I never wanted something looking lowered into the rim etc. Before After along with a quick wash using anachem Articulate, snow foam, gleam and hybrid qd. It comes up great everytime since I machined it.

Hi J.R. I can assure you that either there's a short in the wiring loom or there's a fault in the BCM that's shorting that line down to ground. If you read the last post on my other thread about the rear wiper not working you'll see I've investigated the operation of the wiper motor so today I checked for shorts; Multimeter connected at the motor plug; Direct short to ground with both ignition on and off, irrespective of stalk position. Disconnected this plug inside the D pillar behind the trim panel; Short circuit gone. So, my next question is, where is the BCM on the yeti, and if someone has a wiring diagram, can you please tell me where these wires connect to on it?

WOW!

You make it sound simple, but it isn't. Even with a car right in front of me I can't always accurately diagnose a problem because modern engines have become so complex and so many systems have complex interactions which are not easily separated from each other. Back in the old days you could say, "it's the ignition" because there was no spark then break it down further and eliminate components until the problem was found. Imagine how much harder it is doing this remotely where your eyes and ears are a person five thousand miles away who has no experience to draw upon and very few tools or skills and often cannot even articulate themselves properly in English.

when was the thermostat replaced last? given the engine is boiling the coolant, there is something else not right whuch stopping the intercooler from regulating the temperature. it may not be leaking, you may be losing it through the expansion pressure release.

Hello, I was searching through the forum and found out, that to enable traffic jam assist (TJA) function you need "only" to flash correct dataset. I also found out, that you need to have Lane Assist (3Q0), ACC radar (5Q0 or 3Q0? I think, that we need 3Q0, right?) and have automatic transmissions (which is stated in manual of Superb). Can anyone answer me my questions, which are: Do I really need 3Q0 ACC radar for TJA? I have 5Q0 radar (pre-FL) and 3Q0 A5 camera (FL). I needed to set in A5, that I don't have ACC radar and in ACC, that I don't have camera and in ACC remove two CAN cables, which are only to communicate between ACC and A5 camera. I did this, because it looks like, that 5Q0 ACC radar and 3Q0 A5 camera is not compatible, but maybe I am wrong. Before the removing of CAN cables I was not able to get it working both (ACC and A5 camera). I have only three small issues with this: I can set ACC only up to 160 km/h, in virtual cockpit I can't see properly the animation of car in front of me and with speed below 25 km/h ACC disable itself with message "Use brake pedal". Beside of that, it is working correctly. Do I need ABS compatible with ACC follow-to-stop for TJA? Currently I have ABS only compatible with ACC for manual transmission (without follow-to-stop function). Did anyone see pre-FL Octavia with 3Q0 ACC radar? I am asking, because I was thinking about changing the radar to 3Q0. What everything I need to know before changing ABS module to correct one - with support of Follow-to-Stop function? I mean like - do I really need "only" to change the module itself and that is? Is there any additional cables needed? How can I get it to work after the change? I read somewhere, that I need to do something like "filling the pipes" via diagnostic. I have Octavia 1.6 TDI DSG MY16 with a lots of retroffiting towards FL version. Thanks for any help!

Still had some vibrations with braking, despite the fact I had no collision or damage to the wheels or drivetrain. I took my 2 pieces 350x34mm discs to workshop http://www.ttm-strojna-obrada.hr/ and checked both. We removed 0,12mm from the right side, the one I suffered accident 6 years ago, and I thought left one must be perfect, but have removed 0,5mm on the left one which was curvy on naked eye even. Now there is absolutely no vibrations felt and still left to repeat braking on procedure according to Pagid racing. VID_20201121_103613.mp4 VID_20201121_104636.mp4

Brake disks ( not cheap cheap , but not expensive , just in case ) - https://www.ebay.ie/itm/D1285-EBC-Standard-Brake-Discs-FRONT-PAIR-fit-AUDI-SEAT-SKODA-VW/401018962403?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Calipers from Renault Megane 3 RS 250-275hp - https://www.ebay.ie/itm/NEW-BREMBO-CALIPER-front-red-Renault-Sport-Megane-III-RS-410116043R-410010873R/124217513427?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Steel brackets for 345 Disk ( There are options for 340 disk , but they are mostly aluminium alloys , so I decided to be on safe side) https://epytec.de/de/vw-golf-5-6-gti-audi-a3-tt-s3-8p-bremssatteladapter-renault-megane-rs-4-kolben-bremssattel-tuning-vo-13948 EBC Red Stuff BrakePads , they are very low dust and virtually no noise ceramic pads https://www.ebcbrakeshop.co.uk/ebc-redstuff-brake-pads-dp31908c_p1165147.htm If you want a bit more bite ( but I do not think it will be necessary for Karoq) here is Yellow stuff - https://www.ebcbrakeshop.co.uk/ebc-yellowstuff-brake-pads-dp41908r_p1179108.htm Do not forget about wearing sensors for pads ( two cables coming in set) - https://www.ebay.ie/itm/BREMBO-FRONT-BRAKE-PAD-WEAR-SENSOR-WARNING-INDICATOR-A-00-209-P-NEW/154002433261?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Pins and springs to keep pads in ( be aware that there smaller calipers for 220HP clio , and very often sellers sending smaller springs , so you have to be sure ). Here are two options: Genuine - https://www.ebay.ie/itm/Genuine-Renault-Sport-Megane-3-Front-Brake-Pad-Pin-Kit-Set-411203690R-Brembo/264499625428?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Aftermarket: https://www.ebay.ie/itm/Renault-Megane-RS-250-265-275-Front-brake-pad-fitting-kit-pad-pin-kit-PFK1202Y/333162759488?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Also you will need ( not exactly but alluminium calipers will always be better with ) DOT5.1 brake fluid ( I purchased 2L) - https://www.ebay.ie/itm/High-Performance-Brembo-Fully-Synthetic-Brake-And-Clutch-Fluid-Dot-5-1-1L-1Litre/262703043311?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Do not forget brided brake lines ( otherwise everything what we are doing here is pointless ) as example - https://www.ebay.ie/itm/FULL-KIT-HEL-Brake-Lines-Hoses-For-Skoda-Karoq-All-Models-15-EBRAKE-Multi/202958499133?hash=item2f4144ed3d:g:Si8AAOSwy3BdhIcS Also when purchase lines , ask for 24mm 1.0 banjo bolts , like here - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07TD6S2TQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 If you have extra double amount of icecream money , you can purchase 2 peace brake disk from - https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-brand/ecs-tuning/ecs-tuning-front-cross-drilled-slotted-2-piece-brake-discs/ I would not play much with fully floated, as calipers designed for 28mm disk , and 30 mm is already very tight. Before you purchase brackets , let me test setup. I am currently waiting delivery of brake fluid and pins/springs. Rear brakes is way easier. The only place where you need to be a bit creative are dustshields if you running like me front wheel drive car. Here are calipers ( brake lines attached are to short , and I am waiting for new one at the moment as currently stock one are connected) https://www.ebay.ie/itm/GENUINE-REAR-BRAKE-CALIPERS-310MM-VW-GOLF-Mk7-GTI-R-AUDI-A3-8V-S3-RS3-TTS-8S-NEW/303552076165?hash=item46ad1d1985:g:IQAAAOSw2H1d3~8v Brakepads are this one ( I think , but I am waiting replacement as well , so lets wait to confirm)- https://www.ebay.ie/itm/EBC-RedStuff-Rear-Pads-DP32173C-Golf-R-7-5-Audi-S3-8V-Leon-Red-Stuff/184375948982?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 The most interesting part of the setup is brake disk. Karoq with front wheel drive , do have solid 5x112 10mm depth , 272d ( as far as I remember) and 58.9mm height rear disks. 4x4 have 50mm heigh disk ( aprox). So issue was that 10mm in heigh needs to be compensated with some spacers for brake calipers, but that I found that AUDI TT 2008 , do have 22mm vented, 310mm diameter, and 58.3mm height disk which I installed bolt on in my setup Or this one from EBC - https://www.ebcbrakeshop.co.uk/ebc-oereplacement-brake-disc-d1458_p4240606.htm Any questions - just ask

You could decide to go "smooth" all the time 😁