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Picked up my new to me Superb before Christmas, loving it so far though I was looking for an Octavia Vrs, the value with the Superb was too immense to ignore. 2016 2.0 TDI 190 manual L&K in black. Heated/Cooled electrically adjusted Leather Seats Heated rear seats LED interior light pack Park Assist + Camera 18" wheels Dynamic Chassis Control Heated Front Windscreen Canton upgraded sound system Foot thingy for the boot (cant remember the name but it's handy!) Leather seats take a bit of getting used to as very slippy, especially for the dog's seat protector (from a Passat I had previously) so if anyone has a solution I'm all ears.

Makes me wonder why he got the RS and not the Sportline petrol. Plus with a petrol, he could straight-pipe the exhaust then stop complaining about his 7 row diesel SUV not having enough 'bark'

Hi, I just have got my Enyaq, feel free to ask.

who talked about cheap rubber? there were comparison between different inches - price for same brand/model will be cheaper

Mate stop acting like your some sort of track hero you have a half decent diesel fabia you blew your first engine and I don’t know where dark side developments start and you finish your that far up there ar*e

Noise was always present but less noticeable before the wheel swap, the different tyres may amplify it or the 3k kms I have done since the winter tyres may have worsened the condition. I always do the spinning wheels check as part of my maintenance checks whenever the vehicle jacked up but to be honest with disc brakes and all 4 wheels turning a drive shaft and rotating a crown wheel and the other wheel or the planet gears the wheel stops dead before you can get your hand anywhere near the springs, without a ramp you also need to be lying on your back leaving only one arm with partial motion to spin the wheel, it really is impractical/impossible. Will check the drop links.

Firstly in your first sentence it’s you’re not your and not sure why I’d be jealous of a slow car using built to a sub par and dangerous standard. Also good to see you’re admitting you’d only go to a drag strip because you now accept you’ll struggle round a track due to again your sub par knowledge on track driving, dynamics and basic physics. Didn’t actually ask darkside for any specific power 😂 heck I’d have been happy with 210bhp but at least I’ve got the balls to push things to the limit 🤷🏻‍♂️

Ok then I'm going to go in there tomorrow and have a proper man word with them tell them to get their **** together unacceptable

You could try this:- Rotate the tyres to see if that makes any difference. Does the noise move after moving the tyres? When the wheels are off the ground grab the ARB drop links and push / pull them. One that has play in it will knock. When the wheels are up off the ground spin them by hand. At the same time put some fingers on the coil spring. If a wheel bearing is poor you can feel it in the spring Thanks, AG Falco

The Build Stickers were always in the spare tyre well until people started reporting there was not. Then the difficulty started in getting paint codes. It is how things are, Skoda is 'Simply Clever' until they are just really simply simple. Why not just stick up the name of the Dealership you have dealt with? You never know but someone at Skoda or from that motor group might read this and decide to train their employees. I will make sure that they see the thread.

Like I said in previous uploads my local garage is **** but thank you for that I was just confused that there was no sticker but I will go to Skoda UK sorry this is my first VW Group vehicle I've been used to Vauxhall all my life if good while tapped into it all just finding my feet with the VW Group but thank you for the import plus I am very new to the forums which I do find helpful but I know I can be a bit annoying😏

@DiljitYou posted before that at the dealership the parts guy said they did not do that paint. How did they know if they never knew the code / colour. If you were told that they were lying anyway. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/486145-paint-code If they can not be bothered ask Skoda UK Customer Services to check with your VIN code and tell them the Dealership that could not help. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/488137-paint-code http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/487595-paint-and-paint-code http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/488682-paint-shop-paint

It’s plainly obvious your just a chancer who is jealous because I’ve probably spent a tenth of what you have on my 1.4 fabia and it would absolutely demolish you on the drag strip 😅😂😅😂😅😂 and its engine wouldn’t blow up in the process because I have put failsafes in place something you would know nothing about as you got your little 1.6 remapped asking dark side to push every little BHP out of it you possible could and blew the old girl up on the way home what a joker stick to your own thread and F off and worry about your own car 🚗

Hi Diesel Monte, yes it don't look good, that's why I need differing opinions, I have thought of removing it and giving it a proper check over for perforation weakness on welds , and yes sand blasting is an option (don't have the gear)but would rather clean it up it myself with elbow grease! Or swap it out for a refurbished one, I thought of looking for a scrap yard one but chances are they will be in a similar condition. Anyhow thanks for your input.

If you find a flat spot (must be totally flat for at least 12 meters) against a wall. Drive up against the wall as close as you can. Use some tape and put a mark where the upper edge of the beam, one mark for each side. Now back away from the wall and stop when the front of the car is 5 meters away from the wall. Now adjust the headlight so that the upper edge of the beam hits the wall 6cm below your first marks. This will give you a quite good adjustment of the dipped beam. Another way is to use a tape meter or laser meter. Find the center of you headlight and take a measure from ground to the center. An estimate is that it should be at around 500mm. Find a flat spot like above. Use the equation below to calculate on what height the beam should hit the wall. Put some tape on the correct height and adjust the dipped beam so that it touches the tape. 5000 = distance between front and wall. 500 = center of headlight (mm) differs from car to car, must be measured. 1.2 =desired drop per meter in percent. In Sweden a minimum drop of 1% is required, most manufacturer has their own drop somewhere between 1.2% and 1.5%, maybe even higher. Equation 500−((5000×1,2)÷100)=440mm With these values the dipped beams upper edge should hit the wall at 440mm from a distance of 5 meters. The longer distance used the more accurate the adjustment will be, 10 meters is recommended. At 10 meters with a drop of 1.2% the formula is: 500−((10000×1,2)÷100)=380mm At 10 meters with a drop of 1% 500−((10000×1)÷100)=400mm There's only a few centimeters in difference at these distances but a small difference at 5 meters will make a huge difference in 70meters. It's better to start a little bit slow and carefully raise the beam. If not done properly oncoming traffic will be temporarily blinded.

The pump has an electrically operated sleeve that STOPS the pump from pumping coolant for a quick engine warm-up. This sleeve sticks & causes the engine to overheat, it usually un-sticks itself after a while & engine temperature returns to normal. If you disconnect the electrical connector behind the pump it just reverts to a normal pump & won't stick again. A cheaper option than new belt, pump & labour.

I adjusted mine by finding a quiet lane and adjusting them to the road in front of me. Much much better, and never had anyone flash me, so will be ok until MOT time.

Had a puncture two years ago - went in to a tyre place in Winchester (08:15 am) who didn't have one in stock, the tyre was delivered to them by 11:00 and fitted by 1pm when I went back to collect the wheel. Most tyre places don't carry stock but have very good logistics. On the subject of cheap tyres when I went back the guy in front of me in the queue was pricing tyres for his 3 series and his wife's X3, for four tyres one was £1600 and the other £2400 - mine was £160 for one! Goodyear DO list an Eagle F1 Asymmetric 5 235/47R17 on their website - Goodyear.eu though finding a supplier might be difficult. Wife once had an Audi A2 on Michelins and looking for a matching tyre everyone said "we can get one for tomorrow" but no-one could, it was such an odd size (185/50 R16 IIRC, skinny and low profile) that there were none in the country.

Just to end this. Put new is20 turbo on, with genuine actuator on it, and actuator worked constantly and nobody could code it in. Fit brand new is38 turbo on with genuine actuator on it, and it's working perfectly. I removed an is20 from the car. Can't explain what happened, or why it's now fixed, but there we go. Presumably car just wants more power so forced me to fit a bigger turbo.

You're a star thanks, still looks a little confusing on ordering the correct one but worth a punt as these look awesome

If the wheels are in the drop outs properly then the only thing it could be is bent/twisted frame or fork, that should be visible from directly behind with the front wheel straight, he hasn't just got a slightly offset handlebars has he?. Can he ride it no hands (assuming he can ride no hands), try it yourself, be a squeeze but I've ridden tiny bikes and sat down on a slight downhill I can tell if a frame is off. Standing up and honking on a tiny bike is dangerous/fun... You want to read this thread:- https://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=59332

Get the car scanned for fault codes with VCDS or similar. Otherwise it could be a number of issues with similar symptoms...

Over 15 years of Skoda ownership, 3 vehicles and being obsessive about range and MPG I can confidently state that unless there is a fault with the sender you will always have at least one gallon of fuel left when the maxidot drops to zero miles, its their way of creating a fuel reserve. The fuel guage needle will be on zero and the measuring block in VCDS will show + / - 5 litres remaining, the system is incredibly accurate but the display deliberately misleading to give a security margin. When you brim the tank it will show full and the maxidot range will be that which you would get (assuming driver & journey profile remains as before) if you drove till the tank was empty, we will all recognise that when filling up at zero miles we never ever get the range initially indicated at fill up. As the vehicle consumes the fuel the guage will drop in a linear manner and the maxidot range will drop in a linear manner until the last 1/4 of the tank at which time the for instance 50 mile "reserve" range will gradually dissapear. For example you fill up & the maxidot shows 700 miles range but you never seem to get more than 600 miles before refilling at "zero miles remaining", you will travel 150 miles and the fuel guage will drop 1/4, the maxidot will show 550 miles remaining, at half a tank you will have travelled 300 miles & the display will show 400 miles remaining, at 1/4 tank remaining you will have travelled 450 miles and the maxidot will show 250 remaining. You will only drive 150 miles before the guage has hit zero and the maxidot shows zero miles remaining, you will in fact have 100 miles of fuel left in the tank. The above example was to make the numbers easier, you would likely have 60 miles reserve. Before this CR engine I drove all my vehicles to empty several times, (a couple of times when the sender was faulty) the last time was to establish the true range, when it ran dry I filled it with 5 litres exactly, the fuel guage moved up within the red zone, the maxidot showed 40 remaining miles, remarkable accuracy for an inch or so of fuel at the bottom of the tank, I drove 4 miles to a filling station during which time the remaining miles dropped to zero in 5 mile increments. Over the years I have nearly always driven 50 miles beyond when the maxidot shows zero miles remaining so it must be hundreds of times, 50 miles is when I start to get anxious, I have gone beyond it an not yet run out aside from my first range test, I think that time it was 85 miles but I was in super eco mode.

High 50's to low-mid 60's MPG is easy to get on runs over 50 miles in a modern Yaris Hybrid. But then put adult passengers in the seats, stuff in the boot and head onto dual carriageways / motorways then like any vehicle the economy can be affected. With an EV with a range of 250 miles and more then it is a case of charging as required / when available. But then an EV with a range of 250 miles plus with one or 2 people in has a different range when you load it with people and stuff. Now that there is a member on the forum with a Skoda Enyaq we might get to find out more about real world range, charging times etc.

@Masternet Welcome to the forum and thanks for posting the Pic. Very nice. ? Could you tell us what the car is exactly, what size the wheels / tyres are, battery etc, and what it came with for cables. Was it 1 or 2 cables? ? Do you have a home charger, or will you rely on public charging?

@Stubod If they drove your Yeti they might get less MPG than you do, and if you drove their self charging Yaris Hybrid maybe you could better their MPG. It is horses for courses, and with a Plug in Hybrid and someone that does only 30 miles and charges after every trip they might do no MPG as the petrol will stay unused.

I think some of the Bridgestone weather control A005 range is available in run flat, but might be the older style, not the more recent evo version Also some Pirelli Cinturato All season tyres have the seal inside I used to live in Surrey and as snow is rare, either of these might be suitable (if correct size is available), we have A005s on our second car, and their ability to deal with cold rain is outstanding, however only snow has been more of a dusting (than serious snow) and they were good. I'm not familiar with Pirelli all seasons so can't comment on how they perform.

One thing not odd was the muppet infront of me this morning in a white Taycan. Kirriemuir to Dundee. Yes they have AWD, but that means nothing when the road is covered in ice and there was no salting done. Braking on the corners is not simply clever, and neither is trying to accelerate on the straight. In think they might just be trying to get suitable tyres fitted today, or if not be driving something else for the next few weeks. 'Don't drive your car to the Tay on summer tyres in winter' should be a warning that comes up in low temps. Or just drive with great caution.

I will get a new car and intend to keep the car for 5-10 years (so something reliable) .

Thanks again Carlston. So I have taken your advice and went ahead and fitted the other new rear kyb 7021 coil spring (although the originals looked fine) when fitting the new rear Bilstein B4’s. The car now sits very solidly and the ride height has evened out.Still a little high but not Tractor high! I have taken the car for a 50 mile mostly motorway drive today.It feels planted, no squeaks or groans at all. I have read it good to leave new suspension to settle for approx 300 miles/1 week until getting it 4 wheel aligned so looking forward to that with the Whiteline rear Arb also fitted and car is remapped to a modest 220 bhp. Many many Thanks for your knowledge and replies to me and I wish all on here a Happy New Year.

CETV autos - not sure what that is? The drive system in the Crosstar is basically by electric motor which is powered from a generator charged by the engine. Only at higher speeds or when max power is required is the engine actually “connected” to the wheels directly through a clutch system. There are a couple of good explanations on YouTube of how the system works, it certainly provides impressive economy.

As an outside choice have a look at the reviews for the 2020 Honda Crosstar. All hybrid drive with Honda reliability and excellent internal space with 60+ MPG. and loads of goodies included. Only real downside is the tyre size is only available from a few suppliers.

Mate are you joking ? You have no idea of anything , you pay everyone else to do anything on your car can’t do anything for yourself slap it full of rubbish stickers and act like it’s a race car it goes through clutches every other week, and FYI those boost controllers don’t measure absolute boost pressure as mine is running 1 bar absolute + 1.7 bar boost so stick that up your pipe and smoke it and the greddy will boost over 2 bar, I’ve done everything on my car other than the remap , who did your engine swap yourself??? or did you pay dark side to do it because you don’t have the capability to do it yourself.

Finally got to watch the film over Christmas courtesy of one of my daughters who send me the blue ray dvd. It's 2 1/2 hours long, well filmed, lots of great cars, but as usual with hollywood the facts and fiction get a little mixed up. Overall I enjoyed it.

Unless you have brand new good tyres and they are warm with lower than normal pressure, anything above 200bhp you are wheel spinning FWD from a standing Traffic light start. Would only consider 205 at the rear if 215 on the front and on a deal for 205, In the DSG MK2 you have to be slightly rolling a bit. Extra Power is nothing without traction to go with it

I updated my Bolero yesterday and thought I would share my experience. I searched the Internet and only got bits of what to do and not fully. What you need An SD card formatted in FAT32 The update file. A pc laptop with an unzip programme. I started by downloading the update file to my laptop. I initially used winzip to unzip the files but I later found that didnot fully work. So I used a programme called 7zip. Free to download and easy to use. I followed a lot of posts on various forums that said you unzip the file to the root of the SD card. What it doesnt say is that you need to copy the contents of the folder and not just the folder itself. (Once unzipped) So for me that was click on MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0253T. That will open and there will be lots of folders including a .txt file. Copy those directly onto the SD card. I initially unzipped the file directly to the folder and not the contents. That just left that one folder on the SD card. So when I did the update it didn't work and got stuck on the emergency bootloader screen. I thought I had bricked the radio as it would not read any files. That was until I did the above, then it worked fine...phew!! I accessed the update screen by switching on the radio. Inserting the SD card. Holding down the menu button and selecting update. That then starts the process off. It took about 30 mins in total and you can do it with the engine switched on. The file updated 89 modules. Afterwards I had a B021A fault code on the multimedia 5f control unit. No matter what I did it would not delete. So I researched this and realised you need a new hex code to get the update accepted. After some research I came across a website which helped. http://mib-helper.com/im-so-xory/?key=948 Using VCDS or OBDELEVEN you go into 5f control unit. Adaptions and then look for Confirmation of Installation change. Click into that and that shows a key. Normally 4 letters or figures. Mine was 3 numbers. You then copy that key into the link above and that generates a new hex key. Go back to the adaptions and enter that new key in place of the old one. Save it and the fault code will go away. I hope it makes sense the way I have written it and thought it may help someone out who got a bit stuck like me.

Nothing nice to say, say nothing at all 🙊🙊 Not like most rwd cars have mismatched tires or anything anyway.

PS Forgot to say the real testing section I wanted to try out was the part of the road to the left of the wood in the middle of this pic. Unfortunately it had been gritted and cleared.

Hey all. Firstly let me start by saying i'm over the moon with the Skoda Superb. What an under rated vehicle. So i PX from a BMW 5 Series GT for a variety of reasons. But it's safe to say, what a good decision thus far. As much as a like the Vega wheels, they were just a little under sized for me. So i went for a 20 inch set and can say for sure, that the ride is no worse. The car has taken to them effortlessly. PS the dragon skin colour is fab!

You can fit the head and cams and ECU from a BBZ engine to give you 100 BHP. But it's probably easier and cheaper to sell it and buy another Fabia with the 100 BHP engine already fitted.

I assume your winter tyres are 235/50/17. If so that could well be what i'm looking for. That should make 9mm difference between the 18 and 17 which is the same as the difference between 19 and 18. I'm also looking into the Koni Active dampers as a possible change as well. Just trying to confirm that they fit the 1.4TSI. All the Ebay ads don't list them as fitting but Koni website seems to say they fit all except DCC and HD suspension. Pretty sure I haven;t got HEavy Duty and I definitely don't have DCC so at £500 the shocks may be the first thing to try. Does anyone know if aftermarket shocks count as a modification for insurance purposes?

Banging on about politics on a car forum has always struck me as an outstandingly pointless exercise. All the best xman.

I read your reasons, put politely they're incoherent which is why I threw you the link. If you follow it up you'll find that what you're looking for is more EGR, not less or none. Ask me why performance tuners delete the EGR system.

To me it seems that it's the exhaust valve. What isn't there can't be broken... (don't pay attention, I'm referring to those who point out that it was better before when exhaust valves were still fitted)

I had my car out on some pretty icy roads last night and then they flooded this morning and then in bits just slushy snow. No way would i have been getting on well on the standard tyres and not the winters. What is really good is how an EV deals with driving through quite deep water, just as long as not too deep.

Was checking the Skoda website this afternoon and the PHEV Octy was not shown, you must have a dealer whose on the ball. The only thing stopping me ordering is is no price list of models and options, plus that new infotainment still looks like an accident in the making.

I hope that any legal cover is from the breakdown policy and not from the new vehicle insurance policy for the reasons that you state, hopefully he will confirm. * Yes, it was from my current insurers and will not renew with them. * I live in Zone 4 - London Borough and public transport is fine * The policy I had was mainly for business cover and costing me a fortune...Just got a new quote and cheaper deal with RAC for domestic and I like their customer service. And hopefully he will confirm that an independant inspection took place before the garage got their devious mitts on the vehicle. * Call it inexperience/good faith....It did go back to the main dealer at a cost of £260 for diagnostics to discover 4.5 K expense to follow.