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Just did the full car sound deaderning last week: all 4 doors, tailgate,boot floor, all 4 wheels arches, bonnet, and B pillars. I used Pingjing 2.2mm sound deadener, top with Pingjing 4mm rubber damping liner. Now the car feels quite and chill. Bonus shoot, the car is also a little bit lower than before, thanks to the those good 50 kilo sound deadener. Tho the car does feel a little heavier when driving as expected, I don't really mind it. One small tip: for anyone who has a car with powered tailgate, AVOID use sound deadener on the tailgate. Those sound deadeners just give struts too much pressure due to leverage. At the beginning I placed sound deadeners on both top and back side of the tailgate. When I tried to close the tailgate, the door was like be smashed. And it could not open by the powered strut itself properly, I had to give it a hand to open. Seems the struts didn't have enough torque to handle the extra weight. Then I remove the sound deadeners on the back side, only leave those sound deadeners on top side there. The power tailgate worked ok then, but still not as smoothly and gently as before when closing. In the next few days, I kept asking myself: would those sound deadeners make any difference? Maybe yes. But would those sound deadeners make a huge difference? Probably no. Is it worth to taking the potential risk of breaking my struts just for that little changes? Of cause no. Today I finally decided to remove all the sound deadeners on the tailgate. Now the tailgate feels as smoothly as before (of cause it should). I don't find the car be any louder in any circumstances.

Buying a sump plug from the main stealer is really buying into the bull**** they put on the service invoices and their justification for it like the threads stretching I took my Octavia up to 500000kms with regular oil changes & it went to the scrapyard with the original sump plug & washer, had it ever leaked I would have replaced the washer, I dont think in all my years I have seen a leaking sump plug washer unless it or the sealing face were damaged.

Yeah so the Kwik Fit I took the car to said they had the correct specifications for the vehicle and that they could do a 4 wheel hunter alignment and charged me £49.95 as I only needed a front toe adjustment. I took your advice and contact my local dealer, Hayselden in Doncaster. They advised they had the correct system to do a 4x4 alignment and that it would be £85 for as many adjustments as it would take to get it done correctly. I waited an hour or so for them to complete it, they offered me a private space to continue WFH and once it was done the car drives like new! I compared the alignment sheet with the one Kwik Fit gave me and Skoda have made all the necessary changes correctly! I think in the future I will stick with main dealer first time...

If it helps, this is what it looks like inside. The white plastic lever is the emergency release. The plastic shaft from the gear on the right can shear, leaving the unit unserviceable (this is what happened to mine).

Nope... Not as far as I'm aware on an Octavia anyway

I’ll say it only once more, those who have it working just via coding, try setting the dip position and you will see that it doesn’t work as it’s supposed to. It’ll drop 10mm and if you are lucky it’ll come back but the mirror motor doesn’t have the memory unless you have 7 pins to the motor which was in all but the rarest cases only fitted to cars with power seats. The Octy is not like the Leon/Golf where almost all the mirrors have the memory motor. The Octy, unless specified with the memory mirrors as a standalone option which is incredibly rare and only available on certain trims at certain times, not throughout the production run, doesn’t have the ability to enable this feature only via coding. It’s easy enough to fit the memory motor if you are handy though and then it’ll all work as it should. I’ve fitted power seats with driver memory and memory mirrors to my car and it all works as it should off the key and driver profiles.

Is just one combination of words I can rearrange my rear badges into, if I throw the s away. Using all the letters I can get... Others include abos predusk absurd pokes absurd spoke absurds poke abused porks adsorb pukes adsorbs puke apod buskers apods burkes apods busker askos burped bakers updos bark pseudos bark spoused barked soups barks pseudo barks souped basked pours basked roups basks poured basks rouped bauds pokers boa predusks boards pukes boas predusk boused spark braked soups brakes updos breaks updos breakup doss breakup sods breakups dos breakups ods breakups sod broads pukes brusk soaped bud presoaks buds presoak buras spoked burked psoas burked soaps burkes apods burkes dopas burkes spado burped askos burped soaks burps soaked bursa spoked bursas poked busked praos busked proas busked sapor busker apods busker dopas busker spado buskers apod buskers dopa daubers kops daubes porks daubs pokers debark soups debarks opus debarks soup dobras pukes dopa buskers dopas burkes dopas busker dos breakups doss breakup dub presoaks dubs presoak dusk saprobe kbar pseudos kbar spoused kbars pseudo kbars souped kebars updos kerb soapsud kop surbased kops daubers kos superbad ods breakups opus debarks padouks rebs padouks serb poke absurds poked bursas pokers bauds pokers daubs pokes absurd porks abused porks daubes poured basks pours basked praos busked predusk abos predusk boas predusks boa presoak buds presoak dubs presoaks bud presoaks dub proas busked probed skuas pseudo barks pseudo kbars pseudos bark pseudos kbar psoas burked puke adsorbs pukes adsorb pukes boards pukes broads pukes dobras rebs padouks rouped basks roups basked sapor busked saprobe dusk serb padouks skuas probed soaked burps soaks burped soaped brusk soaps burked soapsud kerb sod breakups sods breakup soup debarks souped barks souped kbars soups barked soups braked soups debark spado burkes spado busker spark boused spoke absurd spoked buras spoked bursa spoused bark spoused kbar superbad kos surbased kop updos bakers updos brakes updos breaks updos kebars

My new purchase - absolutely over the moon with this bad boy!!!

And I've done the same. The ID.4 1st Ed works out a better deal than the Enyaq with the necessary options. Still, my Kodiaq got a great trade in price from VW.

Easy enough to raise the floor to fit level with the spare wheel, using some dense insulation foam board under the boot floor. Although you may struggle to access the tie down loops at the side if it goes too high...

A couple of people that I go kayaking with use a combination code key safe that's like a padlock and hang it on the roof rack or the towing eye. I just take my van and leave the keys in the back. If you don't know exactly where to punch the back door, it's not opening

Glad to join the forum as a new owner of a 280. Dark brown with light beige (or whatever the correct color is) interior. Had to get an estate coming from a Kia Stinger hatchback/sedan and getting something with the EA888 engine was a no brainer as I absolutely love the engine and the DSG gearbox, so I went with the Superb as it is the most spacious out of them, which at 198cm is a big plus. Can't wait for the spring to get it modded to stage 1, fitted with the H&R front & rear sway bars that are due to arrive soon and more beautiful 19" wheels. Maybe get it lowered aswell but not completely decided yet. The only picture I have of it, at a ice track event last weekend, moved like an absolute train on studded tires.

CJJE appreciate your knkwledge .. thanks 👍

I've had mine from new, June 4th 2008. I hope to get another 4 years or so to get my money's worth. It cost me £16500 and I'd like to get the depreciation down to less the £1000 a year. Is it sad that I know exactly how much fuel I've put in so far - a bit over 10300 litres averaging 48.763 mpg. Interestingly the fuel economy has got better as it's got older, once it passed 90k miles it's been averaging over 50mpg.

Well I got mine changed today from OEM to new OEM and the difference is minor but slightly better. I think it is by design that the estate boot closes with much more force. I do remember the Mk2 really needed a good shove to close compared the Mk3. The part number I had before was 5E9 827 550 04S and the replacement is labelled 5E9 827 550 01S. They have 0540N on them which I guess is the 540 NMs. They probably lift a bit better from about half way open but from just over half way closed I would say the design of the strut position means the boot closes under its own weight. Something I've had to get used to in order to prevent a right slam of the boot. The new struts were not cheap! £42 each!

Well the clocks (in a Fabia is where that CAN signal gets 'understood' and converted into the speedo needle position. Not sure where else the speed signal is utilised, if anywhere. Just clarify please, which bits in the car at the moment are from Fabia, and which are still original to the Arosa? Engine = Fabia? Gearbox = ? ABS ECU = Arosa? Cluster = ??

This popped up in my Youtube recommendations, thought it might be of interest: 2056km mit EINEM Tank?!

I checked my emergency bottle I keep in the boot and it’s 1 part screen wash to 2 parts water for -16 degrees and 4 parts water for summer hence I’ve always gone for the middle ground of 3 water as that should still cope with freezing temperatures we get in the uk.

I think in Mk1 Fabia vRS the vehicle speed is communicated from ABS ECU to Instrument cluster by CAN message rather than a wire. Not sure how that helps, if at all.

Exactly so. One underneath the battery tray, and one below the brake servo. Gaz

I've replaced coilpacks, fuel filter, spark plugs and air filter For me It's likely the injectors not spraying well/intake being coked up.

Hello Stoo A 2005 Mk1 Superb (V6TDI) was my first Skoda, and brought me here. I hope you get to love yours as much as I did mine. Rose tinted glasses, but if I saw mine on the market I'd not hesitate to buy it again! Gaz

You can read about how I discovered all this here.

Removal of the oil cap while the engine is running will, and should, make the engine struggle. I can't picture a piece of wire being effective at blocking that hole. Why not take the cap off carefully, then you can inspect the diaphragm inside, and re-fit it at a different angle to give better finger access to the hole. There are just a few plastic ramp catches around the outside that hold the cap on.

As above - No, not regularly, but definitely one of the first things to check if you're having problems, especially if you've upgraded some components... which is unlikely, being a laptop, but not entirely impossible.

I’m with J.R. It’s not a head bolt, no oil leaks on 191k 1.9tdi and likely only ever had the bolt swapped once or twice.

Given you're looking at UK facelift cars, i'm going to ignore confusing the issue with prefacelift configurations (or outside UK) but for the UK facelift, the following should hold true: DCC is standard on the 245 Challenge, optional on any other vRS ACC is optional on all vRS models Rear park sensors are standard on all vRS models Front park sensors are standard on original 2017 spec 245s and 245 Challenge, but optional on all other vRS Rear camera is optional on all vRS models Retrofitting ACC and DCC is no doubt possible but I would expect it to be prohibitively expensive to do so.

Would that be 1 practice session in the morning and a qualifying session in the afternoon? The phases 'gimmick' and 'Mickey Mouse' come to mind.

The latest on ordering for UK customers is that ordering for priority list customers will open 22nd February. Orders for normal plebs / lease firms will open 2nd week of March. Although first deliveries are said to start arriving in summer, Skoda seem to think September is summer and folks should not expect a car before then! All the above is too late for me and I've ordered an ID.4 1st Edition. It arrives mid-March, about the time I can order an Enyaq! I'm a little disappointed as I think the Enyaq is a better looking car, but I don't look at it while driving it......

I can't find anymore where this was mentioned. I went to the dealer yesterday to get two updates. One for kessy and one for air conditioning unit. And now AC menu doesn't come on anymore when you press button for heating steering wheel.

I never really knew how they worked. I presumed they were on all the time and just did their own thing adapting to the various road conditions. Then I wondered why I had the ‘A’/ headlight symbol. I used to have that on a Golf and it just dipped the headlights when meeting traffic. So now this doesn’t dip the lights, it just blanks a portion of your light off. Every day is a school day. I live in the sticks so I’ll give them a try.

I've always had diesels and the sump plug you get from dealers is metal with captive washer.

Got to be honest, I couldn’t tolerate the levels of non resolution I’ve been reading on this thread, and with growing consternation. I ordered a vRS two weeks ago, and came back on here excited to see how the mk4 was shaping up. But these tech issues are just depressing. I’m hoping you’re right and that cars being built in the next couple of months haven’t inherited the legacy issues you guys are dealing with. Such a shame. Hope you get a swift resolution to your rejection. 👍🏼

^^^ This is a UK Winter where day and night temps are around freezing or below in some areas, so maybe some reviewer will go borrow one as they are 'workers' and go see if they will do 150 miles on a full charge'.

Hi @langers2k, On the subject of OBDeleven how-tos and especially backups, today I found this very complete treatment of the subject: http://cupra280.co.uk/obd11.html -Jay

Well I now have a full size spare wheel, but I'm not very happy with how much its raised the center of the boot floor. I'll have to revisit when the weather is better, at least I have it for now. Ordered the RS specific kit direct from my main dealer - item number 5E0 093 860C Kit came with wheel brave, Jack & Jack handle, strap and nut for securing the wheel. Picked up a spare Gemini alloy off a fellow VRS owner last night. Standard kit into full size wheel won't go So out came the Stanley blade and hacked off loads of the sticky out bits Insert now fits into the wheel, though it's quite proud which I didn't realise would have such an impact on the boot floor On to fitting, removed the existing floor piece Wheel in and bolted down Tool kit repopulated and strapped in. Couldn't see a neat way to fit the screwdriver or towing eye - anyone tell me what I'm missing? So now floor is raised considerably (impossible to show in a photo). Weather is crap so it'll stay as its for now, but when it's a bit drier I think I'll take it out again and cut a bit out of the base of the kit holder so it sits lower in the wheel 🤔 And yes, I realise the kit is sitting backwards 😂 Though I don't see it really matters much.

Reminds me of when I was on day release at technical college, it was the days of furry dice & winscreen sunstrips with yours and your girlfriends name in large stick on letters. "CLIVE & PAT" used to get changed by us every week and we would even buy extra letters to get what we wanted, my favorites were "CLIT & APE" & "VILE PRAT"

I can confirm that if my VC is displaying “Telephone” in the centre of the dials, then an incoming phone call will be displayed, with the default option set to “Accept” by pressing the RH wheel button. Rolling the button will display the 2 option to “Reject” the call. With the centre dash set to radio in my example, the incoming phone call is also displayed on the centre screen, with the options to accept or reject. I rarely drive with Telephone selected on the centre of the VC as there are far more interesting options most of the time.

Not quite on topic I suppose, but I bought my Octavia L&K 2.0TDI for £18,800 on the 3rd of March 2006. But then I P/Xed it for £4,250 on the 12th of December 2011 after 5 years 8 months and 52,900 miles. Can't remember any particular problems with it, but we were running the Octavia and a VW Polo at the time, and needed to change to a single mid-sized car as my wife wasn't comfortable driving the Octavia instead of her Polo. So we changed to Golf Plus DSG only to find she didn't take to auto gearboxes!!

My '56 plate was bought in Feb 2010 on 32,000 miles for £9,000. I just spent £700 today on a new DMF + clutch, at 165,000 miles. Passenger side front coil spring was replaced 2 years ago for £120. £820 repair bills in 11 years! Shocking

Regular clearing of snow off the bonnet required as no melting of it happens when there is snow building up.

Moving things slightly forwards (hopefully) now I have never attempted this type of work before but what the hell if I make a mess of it all is not lost as parts a still readily available. With the aid of a Haynes manual, this forum and youtube I got to it although the car is on axel stands the working space is rather tight. I removed the offending driveshaft with the split cv gaiter (offside) from the car yesterday, the three captive nuts on the lower ball joint were in a sorry state , when I liberally sprayed them with penetrating fluid 3 weeks ago I wrongly assumed that they would un do fairly easily, how wrong could I have been! One out of three complied, second one with the aid of a Stilson wrench came loose the last one refused and with no room for the wrench I had to hacksaw it off being careful not to catch the surrounding suspension arm. The drive shaft was complete with manufacturer's sticker and dated 2005 so was original issue to the car, once I had the one shot locking drive shaft off the shaft would not come loose from the hub. I remembered I bought a set of "British made" 3 leg pullers when I was 18ish so I gave them a go and with a slight bang they pushed the shaft loose. I then cleaned an area on the gearbox cv joint so as I could tip ex a mark to allow re fitment in the same line up when repaired just in case of balancing issues. I clamped the drive shaft in my vice and decided to loosley fit smaller nuts and bots through the gearbox end cv holes in case I came apart as there appears to be several sections , then I de greased this joint with brake cleaner and covered it with a plastic bag. Today I have removed the outer cv joint with a soft rubber hammer and carefully eased out the six ball bearings and the two cage thingies, de greased all parts and looking to paint the rusty part of the cv joint. Now I am no expert there does no appear to have been any ingress of foreign bodies from the gaiter split as the bearings, cages and main joint look in amazing condition, there are some vey slight marks but I am hopeful all will be ok once I re assemble with new grease and boot.

I bought mine 28.03.2007 1Z3 2.0 TDI now 320.000km still going strong

Great to see so many people keeping their Octavias for a long time. In my case, and I think it's probably true for a lot of people, it's because there isn't really much out there that will do the same job for anywhere near the money. We bought our Octavia when Skoda were doing the VAT free deal which meant we saved nearly £5k on the list price. Since then obviously they don't do deals like that any more and the list price has increased meaning Skodas aren't the bargain they once were. List price for ours with the options we specced back in 2011 was around £23500. We got 20% off that. Adjusted for inflation, the price we paid in 2011 equates to around £24k now. The cheapest vRS diesel today will set you back £32k. That's a big difference. I now have a 2017 335D Touring for family duties but we can't quite bring ourselves to get rid of the Octavia yet- it's like it's part of the family!

locking car while engine remains running Select Control unit 9 (Central Electrics) Authorization: 31347 Adaptation ZV allgemein Select: Funk bei Klemme 15 ein Value: Active permanently disable Start/Stop STG 09 Security access 31347 Adaptation 10 Channel 34 The original total value in channel 34 appears to be just 4 which as we know defaults SS to ON at each start. Altering the total value by these amounts will make these changes.... Subtract 4 = default is OFF at each start. Add 32 = default is last used setting. Add 64 = reverses lights on the switch Note with all choices the On/Off switch still functions. memory of last-selected drive mode on start-up Not possible. SS disable - do not remember if I used he very same method or the voltage method.

It runs! The battery mishap seems to have been just some water getting into a place it wasnt meant to, charging fine now. Had it out and moving under its own weight, Drove fine, no leaks or major problems. It still has a ways to go before it could go back on the road but this was definately a major step forward.

Car is cleaned under the arches and front is back together. Not perfect mind but Its much better than what it was before. Only problem is that I ran the battery low by quickly starting the car to move it down to the power washer and then back up again. Couple that with the fact that the belts and alternator got a little wet it was obvious that I was going to run into trouble. I had the car Idling while I was bleeding the radiator, all the electrics on, draining the battery. I noticed the gauges had frozen and knew straight away what was up. Just to make sure, I opened torque on my phone and noticed that it was reading 6.6 volts on the voltmeter, not good. I gave the car a few revs and to my surprise it revved freely and much quicker than it normally would, but it sounded like the power washer that cleaned the **** out of the arches just an hour or two before, I presume it was just dumping fuel into the engine at this point. Shut it off and put the battery on charge overnight. Its a big battery so it'll take a long while to charge. Hopefully the car dries out a bit more and the alternator hasnt in fact crapped out on me. The pile of dirt you can see is the dirt I scraped out of the passengers side quarter panel while I had it off.

Emerald green gang

Skoda Octavia 1,9 TDI Year 2002 - Won’t start. No glow plug light and starter wont crank – Relay 109 Just want to input my experience into this forum in order to assist other, with similar problems. Apologize for my English, but it wouldn’t make sense to make it in Danish 😊. Had similar, but not exact same symptoms as described by several other treads. Occasionally my wife’s Octavia wouldn’t start and a few times engine just stopped when driving. Normally after some attempts the car started again and drove for some more weeks, so really annoying to troubleshoot. Finally, yesterday the Engine again stopped during driving and car couldn’t start. When turning ignition key “No glow plug light” and “starter wont crank”. Have had another issue with a damaged relay 109 earlier (No glow plug light), where the car couldn’t start, but is that situation the starter cranked fine. Was at that time solved with a new relay 109. Anyway, started by taking out relay 109 and tested it with 12 VDC on coil and multimeter on relay contact, worked perfect. Mounted relay 109 again and tried starting, but still same symptoms. Went back to Google and started by searching around in forums, but couldn’t find exact similar symptoms. Most similar problems found were caused by broken wiring from relay 109 or bad connections to ECU (Engine Control Unit). Back to the car and started with checking the wiring behind the socket (purple color in my car) where relay 109 is inserted and noticed, when pulling the bunch of wires on the back, that the relay 109 sockets seems to be a bit loose in the “mount”. Supported the socket from behind and inserted relay 109 completely. Turned ignition key and glow plug light came on, and Starter cranked in fine and car started. So, problem solved :-) In order to access Relay 109 you need to remove the lower facia (drivers side below ODB plug) by removing the two plate torch screws. In order to access relay 109 I removed the Wiper relay, see picture below Big thanks to all who contribute here, it really appreciated and finally an appeal to end/close the tread once the problem is resolved. Think to many cases end up in a “dead end”