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Thanks mate. I received the replacement dogbone mount (and bolts) yesterday so that went on this morning, in the coldest conditions I've ever worked in. Everything metal that I touched felt like it was freshly arrived from Antarctica! Anyway, the happy news is that I had correctly identified it as the cause of a nasty metal-on-metal hard/deep noise at idle, and was a bit surprised by how it had broken. The last one I changed, not long ago, on my Polo had become unbonded between the central ali bit and the rubber of the bush, this was worse... Engine now lovely and quiet and running sweetly.

With a Desktop, I always keep an eye on BIOS updates for any improvements that may help performance/reliability. With a laptop, as everything is so intergrated and designed around each other, I wouldn't be as concerned about keeping it up to date. I think the general rule of thumb is to use the old addage 'if it aint broke dont fix it'. As a bungled BIOS update can be fatal for your computer, whereas not doing the update may make no discernable difference.

I noticed that the rear of my 18 plate 280 L&K was sitting a bit low when I hitched up my PRG twin axle the last time I headed off for a track day. All handled fine, but got me wondering what other people towing rigs look like.

not sure how an MOT would pick up a loose timing chain unless had become very noisy / had a rattle, even then it plays no part on the MOT........does it have a high mileage ? Anyway, I know it sounds obvious but its either something that "moves" or flexes when the engine twists rearwards as you accelerate, OR it's something already spinning which "catches" when the engine throttles / speeds up My first port of call would be to have a look at the dog bone / pendulum rear engine mounting, if thats worn its possible that could be it, it's at the back on the bottom of the engine. Check its all sound and not worn, ie the rubber has not perished and it's on metal to metal which contacts as the engine twists backwards.

Why was the timing chain replaced on a 2014 MY car ? thats where I would be looking.

@VRS_Dan I'm over on MBClub, a friendly place but not a patch on Briskoda. Skoda owners are a lot closer to motoring normality and are more into function over form. https://forums.mbclub.co.uk/ My affair with Mercedes-Benz was brief, but my W212 was a very good car... COVID meant my annual mileage went from 30,000 miles to around 2,000 miles so my need for a reliable fuel efficient diesel saloon ended. So I replaced it with a 16 year old 3.5 V6 minivan freshly imported from Japan, like you do!

If the update is marked as URGENT this is usually because of a security flaw that has been found. It does depend a lot on supplier, most of the machines I work with are Dell and I would say we see about 2 to 3 urgent updates per year. Working in a role that has very high security we are very hot on updates relating to security. Modern BIOS updates are much better and it is very unusual to "brick" a device and generally these can be recovered with a bit of work. John

They couldn't buy them at auction for that price! Jokers. Used car prices are very firm at the moment. The trade are paying over book for most things and are sourcing cars from private sellers. Rather than Pex, try advertising the car at retail - 5% or so and see what happens. Tootle is a good car buying service and will get you more than WBAC. https://www.tootle.co.uk/

yes, i'd found ig feed on 5 too (but mistyped as 7 above !) - anyway, we both got to 5 in the end We did have the brake pad warn light on last week a few times, then disappeared, so probably related to the pin 1 - will keep an eye on it. Cluster is back in, but it only takes 2 mins to take out so I'll follow your good advice and reflow all pins tomorrow as could well be 5,7 or 8 if not 1. Thanks for pointer to Erwin, will check that out. cheers, neil

I think thats probably one of the best ideas that you can do, as any car purchase, especially as an enthusiast, is quite a decision. It could also get you over some of the biases that you have created yourself and take cars such as the Stinger out (aswell as the others you've been contemplating), as based on your explanation it does seem to be a car that ticks alot of the important boxes for you: rwd / awd, has an lsd, sedan / coupe bodylines but hatchback opening means that trunk is more usable than a 330i, loads more power etc.

Pin 1 seems to be the brake wear sensor so I can't really see that being relevant. Do you still have the cluster out? I'd reflow all 8 of those joints, and have a damn good look at all of the ones for the green connector too. Broken joints can be very hard to see without good light and magnification, at my age anyway! Circuits are available to download at erWin Skoda, though you have to pay a small fee for an hour's access. If you want to do so I can talk you through the process.

Andy (Auric) got an 18" Gemini sitting flush: Gaz

Update: As expected, it fit perfectly. Same screw layout and everything

My Octy 67 plate estate self raises from halfway when opening and self shuts from halfway when closing. Seems about right given the weight of the rear door.

That’s a really good news 😁 thanks for it I can find it in Hungary also and save the shipping, but thanks anyway, appreciate it Not interested, you can jump on it 😁

I traded my 2015 Octavia 1.4 Tsi for a Leaf in July 2018, put 16,000 miles on it and it cost around £28. But that was using public charging which back then was mainly free. Now I charge at home overnight it is 5p per kWh. My battery is 47 kWh so that would be £2.35 to fill at home. That will do me 180 miles at this time of year at Motorway speeds. In the Summer 250 miles. In winter I get around 4 miles for each kWh in Summer it can be up to 7 miles. Out and about the cost will depend where you fill up. Just with petrol the price varies. Tesla superchargers vary from 22p to 31p per kWh so that's up to £14.57 for a complete fill up on Tesla. But they're quite expensive. Most of the time I fill up for free at supermarkets / stations etc while the car is parked. Superchargers are mainly for long motorway trips in England. A hell of a site cheaper than petrol that's for sure. Currently looking at trading the tesla for an Enyaq though.

Thanx mate, i found one from my local scrapyard with 20km on the clock. That´s the one for the front, i needed one for the rear. But thanx anyway

It shouldn't be a problem. There will be voltage drop along the wires so although a multimeter will show a lower voltage than the battery, when you charge it'll do the opposite. The wires certainly won't cause it to overcharge Leave the negative terminal connected but don't connect the charger to it. Instead, attach to the ground point as shown in the owners manual. The battery monitoring system needs to see how much charge the charger is adding so the battery status and state of charge is correct. If you're disconnecting the battery to charge or charging it directly, ideally the car should be recoded to show a new battery has been fitted so it can relearn the characteristics/SoC etc. While I agree that overcharging is bad, there should be little risk when using an appropriate smart charger for the correct battery technology

Cheers for that and it has crossed my mind. At the time it was parked in a massive exposed work car park, it wasn't that it was that cold temperature wise, but the wind chill was bitter. I'll wait over the weekend and see on Monday when it's thawed to see if it's the same. It might do the trick, otherwise I'll book it in with the garage and see what they can find.

@TimothyT - Don't want to start a "brand fight" here, but have you actually driven the V60 with 8speed gearbox? I went from a 190TDI 4X4 DSG6 to a V60CC B4 AUT AWD. In my opinion the Volvo gearbox is far superior to the DSG in terms of choosing the right gear, no hesitation at all from the gearbox no matter drivingconditions, going full throttle it shifts almost seamlessly. In manual it shifts almost as quick as the DSG. I've driven the Kodiaq 200tdi 4x4 DSG7, that gearbox is better than the DSG6 I had but still it feels "jerky" in some conditions. Also - this is very subjective and my own humble opinion, if you feel the Superb has good enough chassis, steering response and agility even the V60CC will be better in all those respects. Steering is more direct, not quicker compared to the progressive I had in the Superb but more like it always goes where you point it without hesitation, chassis and wheel control also is far superior to the stock DCC Superb, it doesn't slam or bounce sideways on bad roads at high speeds, wheels are always in contact with the road (superb not so much) and it doesn't roll as the superb did. I really liked the superb but I'll never get another stock Superb 3.

try aliexpress with rubber door seal, works great with little money.

It was an oil change on my request after 2000 km. I know there are different opinions on the internet about whether this is really needed or not, but I decided to do it anyway.

Yes. If you currently have a multifunctional steering wheel then a similar wheel with paddles should be plug and play. I have one going spare but don't think postage from the UK would be the cheapest for you. Shout if you have trouble finding one though.

Ha you're right. I filled the mixing bottle the opposite way around. Looks like I'm all set for a major cold snap for a while! @SkudMissile21

Glad to join the forum as a new owner of a 280. Dark brown with light beige (or whatever the correct color is) interior. Had to get an estate coming from a Kia Stinger hatchback/sedan and getting something with the EA888 engine was a no brainer as I absolutely love the engine and the DSG gearbox, so I went with the Superb as it is the most spacious out of them, which at 198cm is a big plus. Can't wait for the spring to get it modded to stage 1, fitted with the H&R front & rear sway bars that are due to arrive soon and more beautiful 19" wheels. Maybe get it lowered aswell but not completely decided yet. The only picture I have of it, at a ice track event last weekend, moved like an absolute train on studded tires.

Anyone who owns a 1.4 or 1.5 will tell you they’re absolutely fine. Naturally. And anyone with a 2.0, petrol or diesel will tell you that’s the only one to have. As suggested above, you must go try them and decide which one meets your needs. We all have different needs and “must have” criteria. Petrol? Diesel? 4WD? 2WD? 5 seats? 7 seats? Personally, I’d never ask such a question. I just make my own mind up.

If you remove the battery and charge it, the battery monitor won't know about the extra energy in the battery. When you refit it, you should therefore recode the car so it can relearn the battery parameters and state of charge. Ideally, you should leave the battery in-situ and connect the negative to the car body (not the battery negative) so the battery monitor knows what's happening and avoid recoding 👍

I’ve mine in the driveway at the minute with a Ctek on it as well. Battery still in place.

I also leave mine in situ, connected to a CTEK 7.0 MXS charger via the extension lead through lounge top window & into the estate boot into the 12v socket in the cargo area. Absolutely no issues, the lead on the CTEK extension cable is narrow enough that I can secure the car & the lead has enough ‘slack’ not to pinch. Battery always fully charged but never over charged. 👍

Any chance it’s cold where you are the latch was frozen confusing the system to thinking it was already closed when it was actually open?

Well I got mine changed today from OEM to new OEM and the difference is minor but slightly better. I think it is by design that the estate boot closes with much more force. I do remember the Mk2 really needed a good shove to close compared the Mk3. The part number I had before was 5E9 827 550 04S and the replacement is labelled 5E9 827 550 01S. They have 0540N on them which I guess is the 540 NMs. They probably lift a bit better from about half way open but from just over half way closed I would say the design of the strut position means the boot closes under its own weight. Something I've had to get used to in order to prevent a right slam of the boot. The new struts were not cheap! £42 each!

I doubt you'd need to recode (from what I've read) but once you've removed it how will you lock/unlock the car? I use a Ctek 3.8 charger on mine and leave the batter in situ. I have an extension that plugs between charger and crocodile clips so that I can leave the charger in the garage . The lead runs under the garage door then up to the car and squishes in a gap near the nearside headlamp.

Possibly, as mentioned he did say he was now onto his 5th vRS so I’m guessing he loves the model. Hopefully he’ll be on here original registration has been found SO67AHK

Just a word of warning, never lubricate or degrease boot struts, you can lubricate the ball joints and clean the rod of dust and dirt, but never grease or oil the struts. You can destroy their ability to hold up you rear door in seconds.

Had this on a MKII estate at about 8 years. Particularly a problem when parking uphill. Had a problem with noise, traced to the ball joint on the tailgate unscrewing due to corrosion/lack of grease.

hello all new to here thought I'd drop a pic of my facelift Octavia vrs. Loving the car had it around 6 months I'd say and not missed a beat. Coming from a MK3 Monte Carlo fabia it's quite a jump to luxury and power. But I'm liking it just not going to go over top with chavvy bits haha 😂 if you see me about give us a flash 👌

After 5 almost faultless years with costs limited to new battery, a better stereo, spare alloys with winter tyres, rubber mats and service items we sold our cherished Roomie Scout this morning. I don't normally care who buys a car but this was different , I'm pleased to say that it was bought by a young lad who will fill it with mountain bikes and use it for what it was designed - having fun!

£75 for a fuel filter too. I buy the VAG one from my local motor factors for £15 and it takes 5 minutes and a torx screwdriver to change it. Bosch pollen filter, £15 and about 10 mins. How they justify £185 for an oil change is beyond me.

@silver1011 was looking at and possibly bought a merc reasonably recently. he may have a lead on a decent one

I am done with Skoda dealer servicing. How can they charge £99 for spark plugs (now normally 3, not 4) £139 for aircon servicing (a rise from £79) and £39 for pollen/cabin filter? They are doing their utmost to discredit what remains of their reputation while dissuading customers to use their services. Taking the Mick comes to mind.

If you are worried about the environment, a modern diesel is less harmfull for the planet than a petrol due to the much lower CO2 and with a DPF, particulates are greatly reduced. Also, the purchase of a new car to replace it has a huge environment impact vs running your existing car. Even purchasing a s/h car has an impact as it feeds the chain further up for new cars and their impact. Even replacing your car with an electric one is just shifting the environmental impat from the user to the mining of the lithium and production of the electricity to power it. If you are worried about cost of the fuel, the money you will spend replacing the 1.6 will buy you plenty of miles in it at the slightly more expensive fuel cost. If you are worried about clean city zones like Bath, Bristol and Birmingham coming in to force, Euro 6 diesels are exempt (a big climb down for Bristol that were originally going to ban all privately owned diesel cars). They have finally realised how clean modern diesels actually are. The best thing you can do (from an environmental pov) is to keep your existing car for as long as possible! All that is assuming that your 1.6 is viable and not on it's last legs or anything!

My dad's Karoq Scout 1.5 TSI 4x4 DSG (built 12/2018) certainly is equipped with ACT..

Hello guys/girls/aliens! My name is Mike, used to work for Listers Group and ran a large online enterprise from the Worcester branch and used to help many of you with your parts. I've since moved away from the group and set up on my own. I now run and own Coverdale Car Parts. https://www.facebook.com/COVERDALECP/ Our website is in development but not to worry, you can still message me on the Facebook page or of course send me a PM on here. I cover genuine parts for the big 4, as you can imagine, but i also cover most other vehicles if you have the need. All parts are posted/couriered or personally delivered if you are local to Worcester. Please jump over to Facebook, give it a like and a share for me and of course let me know if you need anything. I need your help at this early stage of business to get off the ground! - The service books on the site are on order, so please show your interest in the pinned post. ( I know the Skoda lot were very interested in these as they were the first to go on the digital servicing and if like me like a book stamped then these will probably be for you! Even did you a Skoda green version! Books due late next week. Colin is also setting up a landing page for you to order parts too from Briskoda, so you'll be able to do it that way too. Cheers Mike

This popped up in my Youtube recommendations, thought it might be of interest: 2056km mit EINEM Tank?!