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I can only recall seeing one member on here with a 1.4TSI having reported a water pump failure - there is no comparison with the water pump failure rate on the 2.0, and since the water pump is on the opposite end of the engine replacing it is a much simpler/cheaper/quicker job. I'm all for preventative maintenance (which is why I had the cambelt on our 1.4TSI replaced last year when it was 5 years old) but since the failure rate of water pumps on the 1.4TSI is so low the expense of preventative replacement seems out of proportion to the risks to me.

Took a first trip to the track with updated ECU and updated swaybars, the way the car now moves after stage 1 and sway bars is amazing. With better brake fluid (the OEM Dot 4 fluid is garbage) and upgraded rear brakes it will manage consistent quick driving alot better. Already felt a big difference in front brakes going from OEM to proper Brembo discs and pads. Might even get the brake lines upgraded. If my shocks ever start failing will definetly also switch to Bilstein DCC ones. Only did one 20 minute session today because I had my puppy with me (kept the Variocage in the car when I went for a session and it stayed in its spot perfectly!) so did not time it but on the straights Porsche 718's werent really able to keep up with me. Had a good friend drive on the passenger seat and said that the car now definetly is in the same league as a Leon Cupra in terms of handling and most likely quicker on straights. The specific Leon Cupra has RS3 and Golf GTI brakes, armored brake hoses etc so braking is still a weak spot compared to the Leon. Super satisfied with the 280, I can fit my fat-ass frame at 6'6, put in my big landseer puppy in the back, have her be comfortably in the safety cage while driving spiritedly on the A & B roads too. No pics of the car from yesterday but here's a puppy to cheer up the day

It just gets worse, doesn't it ????? ... more and more people discover inherent faults that require money spending on them .. the problem is ... who foots the bill ??? Reliability issues, cynical Dealer responses, bad support and spares problems...... I wonder ... should I have bought the car 2 weeks ago ? Regards, XVolvo ( hopefully not to become XSkoda shortly !!!!)

Yes - found a tacho with maxidot and replaced the original one. Yes - and still got plans in mind.

Quite simply its all about risk (for the insurance company) You havent given full details but heres a list of some of the things they take into account Fabia VRS 1.4 DSG insurance is especially high group 27 (our new high spec Superb is group 19, our fabia 2 1.2htp is group 2) Any modifications or extras Your age How long you've had a full licence Where you live (to do with insurance claims associated with the surrounding area) Your occupation Your credit rating Any accidents, claims or convictions in last six years Where the car is stored Use of car (social and domestic, commuting, business use) Annual mileage Age of all named drivers, their occupations, where they live, their other cars/policies, any claims or covictions in last six years. (They may have protected NCD so had accidents) If your nan/auntie dont live with you, adding one or both may actually increase the premium, ask the companies.. Likewise if they are too old. Plus more....including other (non car) insurance history of all named If you have never had car insurance in your name you are starting at 0% no claim bonus. Shop around directly with insurers as well as comparison sites, ask their advice. Best advice I can give you is sell the vrs, buy a low group insurance car and build up some no claims before trading up. 1 year no claims gives 30% or more discount. Insurance companies regard young newly qualified drivers as high risk, not just their opinion, butnhard statistics calculated by crunching insurance claim records for your particular demographic.

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I've just encountered this issue. Warning on maxi dot telling me to replace fob battery. Bought a brand new pack of 4x2025 duracells from my local tescos for £8. Opened fob, took old battery out, put brand new duracell battery in, closed fob up. Nothing. Took that one out, put old one back in. Working. Weird I thought, let me try another new battery from the same pack of 4. Next new one in, nothing, same issue. Tldr: The problem was a sticker on the back of the physical battery warning people not to swallow or let children play with it. Took sticker off and hey presto, working battery. Just thought I'd save someone the hassle of thinking they've bought dud duracell batteries. Bit of a silly thing to do though put a sticker on the back of the battery. I'm all for putting warnings on packaging etc but not the actual battery itself. Bit of a daft thing to do in my opinion.

Have you thought about removing your lead soled boots before getting in the car?

More details, HUD demo and real range according to screen while 100% charged.

Fair to say that it is definitely important to have your haldex pump taken out and cleaned when you changing haldex oil...this is mine after 18k and it is the second change already👀

The Calm before tomorrows snow. EDIT. The snow never came to much, but the temp did drop to a nice minus 4.

So had my JB4 installed on Thursday. Been using map 1 until today. Today i had engine oil done also dsg & haldex oil changed. Then i refuelled with higher octane fuel and switched to map 2.... OMG.... I thought with Map 1 there was difference but Map 2 just feels crazy...in the best possible way.... It pulls really hard and gearbox seems to be shifting bit later too when pushing it... Obviously i won't be using it full stop. Map 1 will be always on though... Just waiting for exhaust system from Germany and then i will be happy man😁

yeah the wood is a good idea and object under the jack but even better, get a better jack. the nearest halfords is 20 miles away so i think i am going to get them to post it me.

That's the sill, that's where the jacking points are that you'd commonly use the little jack in the boot on when changing a wheel at the road side. Perfectky fine place to put the axle stand It's designed to take the weight of the car.

I wanted a spare for my daughter's 2009 FII and ordered one on the internet with an uncut blade. Ours was £4.81 on Amazon. Then go to your local locksmith and have the blade cut and the immobiliser chip cloned. Our PN is 1J0959753DA. Open up your key to check the PN. This is what came up in a search. https://www.amazon.co.uk/SUNDELY®-Button-Remote-VOLKSWAGEN-434MHz/dp/B07LBLPXG7

He's talking about pushing a button and having the boot go up on its own. One would hope that he knew about the trunk button already.

Very nice - and socially distanced I see

Current model iPhone SE works fine

I have also had issues with the steering wheel, I would be driving along and the instrument panel would just randomly start changing from the speed to anything it chose. They did replace this TWICE under warranty and said it was the rocker switches on the steering wheel. I have also had to have all the 'chrome' (plastic coated) trims replaced due to them all going milky colour and stained, at first they refused saying it was TRF (traffic film remover) that the hand-wash firms use and that was after about 15 months. I had only had the car washed at one of these twice. They finally relented after I did my home work and told them that Skoda Europe had recalled various models in Europe for this reason and I also got Money supermarket's Resolver team involved. Let's hope that realise we are all aware of the issues and they do a recall and then give back what we have had to spend as part of the 'Goodwill Gesture'. I for one will be watching this space.

Get any ledbar (Lazer, if pockets are deep) and let the dealer to fit them. You only need an additional rocker in the cabin (this one for example https://www.carsystems.eu/skoda-park-assist-push-button-3t0927123b,id1775.html) and probably some relay if you want them to work with high beam. I find the high beam quite good but in your red plainlands...you never know.

Thanks Skomaz Ordered the lights from ebay and fitted. All working fine. You saved me a fortune. Thank you .

Have a VCDS scan done and then check the compressor shut off codes under measuring blocks. Also the system pressure. For whatever reason be it a broken cable, low system pressure or another compressor shut down code the modulating valve is not being commanded, the high side pressure is not going up & hence the radiator fans wont be cutting in. I cant believe that this is really an "aircon garage" that you are speaking of if they have no clue other than playing parts bingo. How much have they already stiffed you for?

I have, worn & stuck brushes, the second hand one that I eventually fitted after getting fed up of freeing mine off was not much better and would in time have failed so they certainly are not bullet-proof. It has to be the simplest of jobs (in the history of making cars hard to work on) to remove & work on and the OP may even find that its a leaf or part of the pollen filter that is blocking the rotation.

For what it's worth... my Galaxy S8 fits with no problem Chris

The price I quoted is the average over the three years as it is already going to go up slowly (0% then 1% etc). The net cost already includes the benefit in kind tax (at least for the tax plans already announced, of course this might change). There will be a whole load of tax changes as cars move towards EV being the norm not the exception - road pricing will happen at some point I'm sure. But as a comparison, the net cost will be about £20 a month less than I'm paying for the C4 grand picasso (similarly with most of the options chosen) and that is over 4 years not 3. You also save on the NI, not just the tax

Yes I have been thinking about that recently and decided to change them for flip flops 😅

The GHz will only be an problem if windows kept hopping between multiple networks, with the same name but different frequencies. If it dropped it would connect to the new one ASAP. Try disabling the 5GHz in the router and see if your problems go away. If it doesn’t it isn’t the issue. I’ve seen similar in windows with certain laptops with certain WiFi chips. Others have been fine, so it’s all a bit of a mess tbh. I’m tempted to wait for the AX cards to become available at a reasonable price and then see what happens there with a swap.

Having had a collection of 90s hifi, I spent some time fixing some bits. Audiolab 8000s B&W P5 Sony MD recorder, which was on DAC duty. The P5 needed all new caps on the crossover and the fluid in the tweeters removing, cleaning and replacing. The amp just a clean. Sounded stunning, although I had got sick of having to go through a complicated set up for any film not on a disc. So I had a hunt and found an Arcam SR250 for a very good price. After making sure I was happy with the sound the 8000s went back to my father who originally had it, for his spare room system. Music is really good, it runs cool (Class G) and films sound great through the p5. High end treble, speech, all the way down to the background running/pulsing bass or fast moving well controlled bass. I don’t notice the lack of sub, although I have an option to add 2 if I want. I really don’t understand why more manufacturers don’t make amps that can switch AV via hdmi, still have direct phono and digital inputs and down mix films properly to stereo. I don’t have space for all the extra speakers, nor do I want them and the wires. I also don’t miss them one bit and the money saved in extra speakers can be used on far better amp than a 16 channel at the same price point. Funny how the world seems to have gone back to stereo in a small way.

1) the most spacious car for the money 2) upgrade to full 5 years warranty for extra 800€ (Apparently, KIA gives 7 years, but it wears off rapidly) 3) decent consumption 1.5TSI

The water doesn't need to get in actually. It's called condensation.

Ah that's handy to know! I never knew that the cool air feed was any different between the models! In fairness those aren't things I've checked over though. And it'll probably stay a lower engine unless my missus' wants a different car, if she doesn't want this one though I'll be well annoyed though as I hate having a small(ish) car And yeah man let me know how you get on with it, I've poly bushed most of my cars in fairness and never had any problems, unfortunately the last car I poly bushed (I had a diesel Leon before the Furby) wasn't a particularly great handling car anyway so I couldn't really tell the difference haha

Quartz grey basking in the sun

They just lift up and unclip, use a plastic trim removal tool as to not damage the plastic of the door card I have added both front and rear guides for you.

With verbal this time.

And I don’t ? FYI he is a friend that I mentored for YouTube, he used to work for Croatian AutoClub.

And the same carpet after a scrub and a jet wash. Didn't come up too bad.

The OP will not be able to extinguish the light by erasing the fault code if the fault is still present but for £19 its worth a try, beyond that he will need VCDS or similar to see where the fault lies, usually a seat connector, door loop wire fractured or airbag control module gone t1ts up.

Got the 280 stage 1 tuned. First of was very surprised (but not unheard of) that Skoda underrates the engine clearly. It should be 280 bhp but stock dynod at 226kw / 304bhp and then got a gain of 57kw so now it is 283kw / 380 bhp. Will measure with Dragy 0-100km/h, 0-200km/h, 100-200 and 1/4 & 1/2 mile times soon to compare to reference point at stock.

I've just experienced the same issue on my 2017 70k miles car. Pretty poor from a quality perspective imho, my previous 2.0 tdi Ford was still on it's original after 12 years and 140k. I've been very lucky that the used dealer I bought it from has been very honest. The warning light came on, on the way to get it MOT'd with them, 7 months after purchase. After a few phone calls they've pulled the diagnosics and admitted that the error had previously appeared prior to my purchase and are therefore doing it for free. Whilst obviously they should've sorted it before selling it to me, fair play to them for being honest and sorting it. Disappointed it's failed, but still love the car. Easily the comfiest and most luxurious car I've owned.

So you still have the fabia then 32KOFDATA?

3V0 091 491 AD

Wow Thanks a lot @EBCBrakesUK I never hardly win anything...Well happy mate, will PM you now

Not done anything to the car just yet but postman has brought something rather exciting😍 should be fitting in on weekend😇

If you intend to carry on maintaining your car(s) in the future @froggy8, a trolley jack is a very wise purchase.

Next job on the list is to try and bring some life to the paintwork. As you would expect for a car with this one's history and mileage (162k) it's seem plenty of abuse and paint. In the initial pictures I posted it looks clean, but it's not. Here are some pics after I washed it. Plenty of ground in grime. Time to get out the claybar and cutting compound.

I just can't get excited about the arrival of this new C63. As a car enthusiast I love the ever growing power of the 4 main protagonists, but I'm not a fan of the shrinking engines. A 6 cylinder is great, but a 4! And then there is the downsizing of capacity and even more hateful, the adding of weight. The C63 gains over 100bhp to top 600bhp, which is great. It loses the V8 and gains a 2.0 litre which is 60 kg lighter - also sort of great, but, it is a 4 cylinder, which is not. Then to add insult to injury the car will be close to 2 tonnes due to the addition of an electric motor and those ruddy heavy batteries, which is appalling. BMW held out on it's straight 6, 3.0 and more power, but somehow along the way it added 150-200kg, possibly more when the new 4x4 version appears and this begs the question of what will it weigh when it goes hybrid? Jaguar have been building tubby cars for ages (the beautiful F type has needed a diet from day one) The Audi RS is already a heavy lump, but presumably the next version will weigh substantially more and be tipping the scales around 2 tonnes, leaving only the Alfa to fly the flag of moderate weight (at least in the modern world's definition of moderate weight). It makes me so sad that we are losing the multi cylinder engines, but it really annoys me with the increasing girth and weight of all our cars. Perhaps some brave designers will cotton on to the fact that overweight does not improve handling, no matter how much grip the car can develop. Here's Cars spec of the new C63 https://www.carmagazine.co.uk/spy-shots/mercedes-benz/amg-c63/

Petrol DSG 🤘

Ordered a Enyaq 80 in Arctic silver to replace our current lava blue 2019 Superb L&K TDI190. This is a Swedish spec veichle, so heat pump, Light & View Basic, Assisted Drive Plus, Climate Basic, Convenience Basic and Loft interior are standard on the 80. Added extras: - Comfort seat basic - Climate Plus - Family Plus - Infotainment Plus - 125kW charger - Tow bar

Enyaq 60 Nav Lounge in race blue with heat pump 100 kW charging, climate basic, srive sport basic, Assisted drive plus and HUD Now does anyone want to buy a Tesla Model 3? ;-)

At last and after a long break - here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( February, 2021). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Fixed Speedcams, Average Speedcams, Variable Speedcams and Redlight Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams February, 2021.zip